Month: May 2018

Spotting Grubs in Your Yard Before It’s Too Late

Grubs are a quiet enemy of a healthy lawn. Voracious eaters, grubs live beneath the surface of unsuspecting lawns. Also aggressive multipliers, grubs will continue to reproduce and inflict ever-increasing damage.  Because they live below ground, homeowners are unlikely to spot the invaders or catch them in the act. However, anyone who is paying careful attention can easily spot the evidence of grubs. Here are some signs that grubs are feasting on your grass.

Wilting Grass

Grubs live to feed on your grass. But they don’t eat the pretty green stems that you see above the surface. Therefore, you won’t see them crawling around on your lawn, and you also won’t see grass being chomped off by these pests. Instead they eat the roots. This means that all of the damage is occurring below the surface. Of course, this will affect the overall health of grass plants. What you will notice is grass that looks wilted or sick.

Brown Spots

If grubs continue to feast on your lawn, eventually grass will not just look sick or wilted. Eventually the grass will die. Death of grass will demonstrate itself with brown spots. Sometimes brown spots start out small and you can attack the pest before the problem becomes widespread.

Easily Removed Grass

Another consequence of grub infestation and the accompanying loss of roots is a steady weakening of grass plants. You probably don’t try to pull up your grass, but if you suspect grubs you might want to do just that in a small, inconspicuous area of your yard. If grubs are destroying the roots of your grass, clumps of the plants will be easily removed with your hands. Strong grass plants, on the other hand, will have dense root systems that keep them firmly anchored in the ground.

Increase of Animal Visitors

Finally, a dead give-away that you have grubs is an increase of animals coming to your yard to eat. Animals, including birds, moles, and racoons, are natural predators of grubs. If you have noticed flocks of birds frequently landing in your yard while ignoring your neighbor’s yard, you can be pretty sure that they are coming to feed on the pests feeding on your grass. On an even more unpleasant note, skunks also enjoy a meal of grubs. Now that is motivation to eradicate these pesky pests from your yard!

If you think you have a grub problem, Ping’s can help. Our lawn care division can make needed pest control applications or provide holistic lawn care which includes both fertilizer and pesticide treatments. Call us at 317-298-8482 to find out more about the services we offer.

This post first appeared on https://pingstreeservice.com

Trees, flowering shrubs, bushes, plants, and grass all work together to create a diverse ecosystem above and below the ground. While birds, insects, and other wildlife are attracted to the foliage, refuge, and blooms above, the roots are working below to find water, nutrients, and stability.

Choosing the right shrubs for your Alpharetta Ga landscape is a question of selecting ones that will thrive in the conditions of the environment where they are planted.

The team at 72tree.com has identified 4 shrub specimens that will enhance the natural beauty of your Alpharetta yard and landscape.

Hardiness Zone 7b Bushes and Shrubs for Alpharetta

The USDA Hardiness Zone Map divides North America into 11 planting zones. Each individual planting zone is around 10°F colder (or warmer) than its neighboring zone –during an average winter.

At your local nursery or garden supply store, plant identification tags usually identify the zone in which that species will thrive.

The city of Alpharetta is located in zone 7b with a humid subtropical climate which supports the following striking species:

Juniper – juniperus

Junipers are long lived, slow growers, and rarely die. With a strong and extensive root system, they are able to adapt to their surrounding environment with ease. When planted in a location with ample space for growth, this specimen requires very little attention.

Juniper varieties vary in shape and size. The taller of the species can reach heights of more than 130 feet at maturity. The majority of the species however, are slow growing and will only reach about 30 feet in height, or 3 feet in diameter at maturity.

Junipers are evergreen and while they do not produce flowers or fruit, they do produce seeds.

Under the right conditions, this species can live from 400 to 700 years.

They are vulnerable to rust disease, which can be managed through pruning affected areas and treating them with fungicides.

Mountain Laurel – Kalmia latifolia

Mountain Laurels are relatively fast growers when properly planted. With a matted spreading root system, this shrub grows well in acidic well drained soil, and thrives when grown on north facing slopes or the east side of structures.

Mountain Laurel varieties are able to reach upwards of 25 feet, and if left to thrive without pruning, can grow into a large blooming thicket. Prolonged direct sunlight in summer months can stress this species. Take this into consideration when choosing its location.

This species is evergreen and produces flowers in terminal trusses of 50 to 150 blooms. Blooms range in color from white to pink and deep rose commonly with purple details. Flowering occurs in late spring (May and June).

This shrub however, is toxic. All of the green components – including the flowers, pollen, and twigs – contain andromedotoxin and is poisonous when ingested. If browsing animals consume enough of the plant, it can be lethal.

Mountain Laurel is vulnerable to leaf spot which can be managed through pruning affected areas and then treated with fungicides.

Rose of Sharon – Hibiscus Syriacus

Rose of Sharon can be planted as a small tree or large shrub. It grows well in varied soil types but performs best in hot climates with moist soil and full sun.

At maturity, this species can reach up to 12 feet tall and grow 10 feet wide. Being multi-stemmed with vertical branches, it is relatively easy to grow, and requires minimal care. For this trait, Rose of Sharon is commonly used as hedging.

Rose of Sharon is a deciduous flowering shrub which with heavy pruning in early spring promotes flowering from July through September. Its flowers reach 2 to 4 inches in width, and blooms can range in color from pink, red, purple, white, and blue with a typically red center.

This species, if left unchecked, will reproduce and spread quickly in areas with little disturbance. Rose of Sharon is a vigorous and healthy species with high tolerance to pests and disease. When there is a problem with either, it is easily remedied through heavy pruning and with insecticides or fungicides.

Gardenia – Gardenia jasminoides

Gardenia can be planted as a small tree or large shrub. It thrives in acidic soil with good drainage, and flourishes in high humidity. This shrub grows best with night temperatures above 60 degrees, and mid to low 70’s during the day. Bright (not direct) sunlight is best for this species.

This shrub can typically grow up to 15 feet but some varieties are able to reach heights of 50 feet tall. With its many size and form variations, they are frequently used as hedges, ground cover, and even specimen plantings.

Gardenias are evergreen flowering shrubs and small trees that do require moderate attention and care. Flowering from April through July, the flowers can be solitary or in clusters; they range in color from white to pale yellow.

One of the greatest features of growing gardenias is its sweet scent. Once the species blooms however, the flowers quickly wilt when they come in contact with water.

Gardenias are highly susceptible to pest infestations. However, they can be easily managed with insecticidal soaps or horticultural oils. It also helps to maintain a high level of biodiversity in your garden which serves to attract predators of the insects threatening your garden.

Benefits of Shrubs Around Trees

Besides all of the artistic possibilities that come about on a landscape rich with trees and shrubs, during severe weather and strong winds, it is your shrubs and bushes that act as a wind buffer.

Shrubs and bushes do an excellent job at diverting wind, thus weakening it. This in turn spares the surrounding trees from taking the full force of potentially damaging winds.

Likewise, the bushes planted around your home will help shield it when the cold winter winds begin to blow.

Healthy Gardens and Landscapes Need Diversity

A healthy garden and landscape will have a variety of thriving tree, plant, and shrub species. Throughout the blooming season, as each species flowers, it attracts different insects and wildlife.

This biodiversity helps to stave off infestations. Likewise, the co-mingling of roots and fungi (in fertile soil) help to create a thriving mycorrhizal network below the soil that works to impede invasive diseases.

Remember to have a plan in mind when acquiring plants and shrubs for your garden and landscape. Not all shrubs can be planted equally, but they all can thrive in the right environment.

Sources:
http://buckjones.com/trees-shrubs-how-to-choose/
https://www.michigandnr.com/publications/pdfs/huntingwildlifehabitat/Landowners_Guide/Resource_Dir/Acrobat/Trees_and_Shrubs.PDF
http://www.lot-lines.com/5-reasons-to-reconsider-your-hatred-of-juniper-bushes/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kalmia_latifolia
https://extension.psu.edu/mountain-laurel-diseases
https://www.uaex.edu/yard-garden/resource-library/plant-week/mountain-laurel-6-15-12.aspx
http://www.hort.uconn.edu/plants/detail.php?pid=204
https://communityenvironment.unl.edu/plant-month-rose-sharon
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/rose-sharon-tree-41486.html
http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/ornamentals/gardenias.html
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gardenia
https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/all/gardenia-augusta-g-jasminoides/

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/4-shrub-species-alpharetta-georgia-yard/

Killing tree roots, removing them, and cutting them are three ways to control the growth of roots, and the damage they can cause to driveways, retainer walls, and home foundations.

Each of these actions has the potential to solve your principle problem, while creating another one. In this article, we will discuss each option and how it affects your tree and landscape. We will also provide several alternatives which could potentially solve your root problems.

Identifying Your Root Problem

In their constant quest for moisture and nutrients, roots will grow in some inconvenient places. Depending on soil compaction and quality, they will adapt and change growth behavior. The following are common scenarios of root damage and undesired growth:

Roots Growing on Ground Surface – As tree roots mature and as natural soil erosion or compaction occurs, the roots may become exposed along the ground.

Roots Growing Under Foundation – When roots grow under a home’s foundation, they will thicken as they age and continue to grow. This growth exerts an upward force on the foundation, partially raising it, bending, or warping it until it cracks.

In the event you are dealing with a mature tree planted too close to your home, this page offers further insight into resolving your problem.

Roots Buckling and Cracking Sidewalks and Driveways – The way roots grow under and damage a structure’s foundation, they can efficiently do the same to a concrete driveway or sidewalk.

The Tree Root System

Whether surface roots or underground destructive roots are the issue, take a moment to learn the importance of the roots in relation to the tree’s health before killing, removing, or cutting them.

• More than 25% of a mature trees’ mass is found in its root system.
• The majority of those roots remain from 6 to 18in below ground surface.
• Injured roots are susceptible to disease or infestation. This directly impacts the health of the tree, potentially leading to its decline and eventual death.

The two types of roots found below ground are:

• Feeder Roots – which transfer and store moisture and nutrients from the soil.
• Structural Roots – which stabilize or anchor the tree to the ground (these are the larger of the roots)

Killing Tree Roots

Option 1: Cut Down the Tree

“Once a tree has been cut down, roots can no longer grow.” The idea here is that they are dependent on the leaves photosynthesizing the fuel that drives their growth. Two potential exceptions to this are:

Tree Sprouts (Suckers) – These look like seedlings or offspring but are “clones” of the tree growing from the roots. With enough foliage, the roots may survive.

Neighboring Tree Association – There is evidence that shows the possibility of neighboring tree roots making associations with each other. This occurs through root grafting as they run into one another. This association has the potential to sustain the felled tree’s roots for continued growth.

Option 2: Use Herbicides

A very effective way to kill more of the root system (than simply cutting down the tree) is through the use of herbicides. The following video demonstrates an effective herbicide delivery method.

In the summer or early fall, when the tree still has leaves producing food, cut notches around the lower portion of the tree trunk. You only need to cut deep enough to reach the phloem (phloem is the tissue responsible for transporting food to the roots).

Apply the herbicide to the notches and allow two to three weeks before having the tree removed.

This type of herbicide can be found at your local gardening store and will come labeled specifically for this purpose. As with any chemical, be sure to read and follow all use and safety instructions.

Killing roots through the use of herbicides may cause serious collateral damage to neighboring trees. If their root systems have made associations with each other. The herbicide could potentially travel from one tree to another resulting in the decline or death of the other (otherwise healthy) tree.

If there are several trees in your yard or landscape, have them evaluated by a tree service professional before using herbicides in this manner.

Tree Root Removal – How to Safely Do It

There are two principle lines of thought for root removal:

Tree Has Been Removed – In this scenario, after the stump has been removed or ground down, simply follow the path of the roots. Dig them out and cut into sections (for larger roots).

Removing Disruptive or Damaging Roots – In this scenario, you do not want to lose the tree. Only the roots that are either growing on the ground surface or interfering with a foundation, retainer wall, or other structure.

This video shows how tree roots interact with a barrier like a retaining wall.

Once you have selected the roots to be removed, the following steps will help you safely and efficiently get the job done. See also “Cutting Tree Roots – Planning” below for further tips and advice.

Tools – The tools you will need to safely do this job include but are not limited to:

• Spray Paint
• Shovel
• Spade
• Sharp Hand Saw
• Cloth
• Alcohol
• Soil
• Mulch
• Seed

Mark Your Cuts – Using spray paint, mark protruding roots to be cut or spray the ground where you intend to dig to the roots.

Clear The Surface – Using the shovel, carefully dig around the area of the root where it will be cut. You will need enough space to safely work with a saw.

Remove Soil Around Root – Using your spade, remove the soil from the sides and from underneath the root. Again, leaving enough space to safely use your saw.

Sterilize the Saw – (for live roots) As open or wounded roots are highly susceptible to disease, you can minimize exposure by sterilizing the saw with an alcohol drenched cloth.

Make the Cut – Saw through the root just below a secondary or side root growing downward.

Finish the Job – Once the root is cut, pull up the remainder of the cut root. (for live roots) Quickly replace the soil around the remaining root. Fill in any holes with soil and reseed the area if needed. Water the tree well within the dripline (under the canopy).

Mulch – When all is done, spread a loose 2-3 inch layer of mulch over all of the root area in the dripline.

Cutting Tree Roots – Planning and Execution

Properly cutting tree roots can help achieve a deeper, stronger, and healthier root system.

Also known as Root Pruning, this process should never be approached without a plan. We advise hiring a professional tree service, but the following will educate and help you to understand the process and goal:

Leaning Trees – Stop here. Do not cut the roots of a leaning tree. In this case, you will need to call a tree professional to assess the safety of the tree and which roots (if any) may be cut.

Season – Unless the situation is absolutely necessary, tree root pruning should only be done in late winter or early spring when the tree’s functions are still slow. This is the time of year that the risk of dehydration is at a minimum, thus less risk of damaging your tree.

Distance – When dealing with a mature tree, measure the DBH (Diameter at Breast Height). You will want to avoid cutting any roots within a distance of 5 times the DBH from the tree trunk.

For example, if the DBH is 12 inches, you will only want to make cuts to roots that are outside of a 60 inch radius from the tree’s trunk.

Younger Trees – Young trees have a better chance of recovering from root pruning and can be pruned closer to the trunk (3 times the DBH). However, in any situation, the farther away from the trunk you can get, the better and safer it will be.

Cut In Quadrants – Never remove more than 25% of a tree’s roots at one time. Divide the area around the tree into four quadrants and carefully cut roots in 2 quadrants opposite each other. After 2 years, it should be safe to cut the roots in the remaining 2 quadrants.

Avoid the Largest Roots – The larger roots are structural roots, they are the ones that begin at the base of the tree and flare out. These are the ones keeping the tree anchored in its place. If one of these roots is to be removed, make sure the cut is made as far from the trunk as possible.

When a cut to one of these roots needs to be made closer to the trunk, a tree professional should be called to assess the potential effect on the stability of the tree.

Mark Your Cuts – Using spray paint, mark protruding roots to be cut or spray the ground where you intend to dig to the roots.

Cut Below Secondary Roots – Your cuts should be made below a secondary (or side) root growing downward. This will not only improve the chances that it will continue nourishing the tree, it will likely guide root growth into deeper soil.

Finish the Job – Once the root is cut, pull up the remainder of the cut root. Then quickly replace the soil around the remaining root. Fill in any holes with soil and reseed the area if needed. Water the tree well within the dripline (under the canopy).

Mulch – Once finished, spread a loose 2-3 inch layer of mulch over all of the root area in the dripline.

Root Cutting and Removal Without Killing Your Tree

Root cutting and removal can indeed be accomplished without crippling or killing your tree. It is a process that must be precise and taken slowly to preserve the integrity of the tree. Keep the following in mind:

Poor Pruning – A bad prune job in the crown or in the roots can severely compromise the health of a tree, eventually leading to its death.

Trunk Proximity – The closer to the trunk that roots are cut, the more significant and severe the damage will be to your tree.

25% Rule – Never remove more than 25% of a tree’s roots. The tree will likely die or fall, or both.

2 Years – A tree should be given two years to recover between root pruning.

Spring Time – After bud break, tree roots should not be pruned. This is the time your tree is most reliant on them.

Alternatives to Root Cutting, Killing, and Removal

The idea of cutting your tree roots may seem less appealing now. If you find that the risk of losing your tree is too great, here are some potential alternatives:

• Add soil over the roots that have surfaced and reseed.
• Design your landscape around the tree root spread.
• In hardscapes, use reinforced cement.
• Install root barricades.
• Replace a broken or buckled cement walkway or driveway with a gravel one.
• When planting new trees, make sure the soil is appropriate for the species and water it well for deep root growth. Click here for more on watering and soil.

The following video demonstrates how root barricades are installed.

Regardless of the solution, Look after the health of your tree! And when in doubt, call a professional to evaluate and assess what actions should or should not be taken.

Source(s):

http://aces.nmsu.edu/ces/yard/2000/030400.html
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/dangers-cutting-tree-roots-40686.html
http://hort.ufl.edu/woody/root-prune-guidelines.shtml
http://hort.ufl.edu/woody/urban-sidewalk.shtml
http://m.visitmadison.org/site/v/default?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.wikihow.com%2FDig-up-Tree-Roots#2861

https://plus.google.com/+Toddsmariettatreeservices

The post Tree Root Killing, Removal, and Cutting appeared first on http://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com.

It’s Time for a Spring Yard Clean-Up

We’ve been waiting for it since last November and this year we thought it would never come. But finally, spring has arrived in central Indiana. Now that spring is here, it is time to get to work. As winter clears out, it’s easy to see that there is much to be done. Here is a list of spring yard clean-up tasks to get you started.

Clear Lawn Debris

Winter weather tends to make a mess in your yard. Snow, wind, and ice can be hard on your trees, bringing down small twigs, larger branches, and sometimes even whole trees. In addition, leaves and trash may have been blown into your yard and will need to be taken care of. Whether you have a small mess or a big one, Ping’s can come take care of it for you. Even cleaning up a large tree is no problem for us.

Clean Out Landscape Beds

Likewise, your landscape beds may have collected the same types of debris over the winter. Beds may also have dead leaves, flowers, and stems that were not removed in the fall. This can be a big job if you have multiple landscape beds. Or delegate the work to Ping’s Landscape division. We will quickly clean out the old and get your beds ready for new spring plantings.

Trim Trees and Shrubs

Once new leaves appear on trees and shrubs, you might notice that they look a little shaggy. In this case, they could probably use a trim. Ping’s has the expertise and equipment to prune trees, improving both health and appearance.

Aerate and Overseed Grass

Problems with your lawn can become apparent in the spring. Ground may be compact or the grass may become sparse or thin. Taking the time to aerate your lawn and overseed it can improve your chances of a lush, green lawn this summer. If you don’t have the time, Ping’s lawn care team can do it for you.

Fertilize Lawn

Great looking lawns don’t just happen. Spring is a good time to start fertilizing your lawn and getting it ready for a healthy growing season. This helps your grass recover from the harsh winter weather and get ready for the hot days of summer. Again, Ping’s can do this for you. We actually have a 6-step program that provides lawn treatments at just the right time.

Apply Mulch

For many homeowners, spring means that it’s time to apply mulch. This is a helpful practice, which conserves water and reduces both run-off and weeds. It is important that mulch application be done correctly since too much mulch can be harmful to trees and plants. Aren’t sure how to apply mulch? See our blog for some tips or better yet, let Ping’s do it for you.

Spring’s to-do list can be overwhelming. But it doesn’t need to be. Let Ping’s help you out. We provide all these services for commercial as well as residential customers. Call us today at 317-298-8482 and let us know how we can get your property cleaned up and ready for spring.

This post first appeared on https://pingstreeservice.com