Have Your Trees Professionally Trimmed This Spring

Not everyone enjoys doing yard work, but after a long winter, it is nice to walk around the yard and see how things are doing– taking a detailed look at things you haven’t looked at in months.

When it comes to your trees on your property, it’s important to maintain the health and the look of them throughout the warmer months. Getting a head of the game in the spring is crucial.

The Benefits of Having Your Trees Professionally Trimmed

Take, for example, the trees in your yard. When’s the last time you had any of them professionally trimmed? All too often, people wait ‘til “the last minute” to call in a professional trimming company like Big Foot Tree Service. You know how it goes: a tree looks like it’s dangerously going to fall on a house, vehicle or person in the yard, so it must be trimmed immediately, right?

That said, springtime is an ideal time to get trees trimmed whether they’re “on the brink of falling over” or “just a little overgrown by now.”

Trees go dormant in the winter. They basically take a rest– much like most people! Spring, though, is the time to grow again, so it’s like Mother Nature turns them back on, and suddenly they’re sprouting leaves and looking alive again. Right before all this takes place, it’s a good idea to have a trimmer come and “prune” away the dead branches, as well as get rid of diseased or pest-ridden parts of the tree(s).

Safe Trees on Your Property

For most, it’s a safety issue. A good trimming will help clear paths so people aren’t hitting their heads (or eyes). Trimmed up trees make it easier to get in and out of driveways. Plus, before more storms hit New Jersey, a good trimming can help prevent “the big one” from falling down at the time you least want it to– mid-storm!

Have Big Foot Tree Service trim your yard trees this spring. This will help support new growth and make your tree or trees look better for all to see and enjoy. Trimming also helps shape the growth of the tree so that it looks pleasing to the eye. Canopies can also be thinned out, as needed.

Need some trees trimmed? Call 973-885-8000 today or visit us online for more information!

The post Have Your Trees Professionally Trimmed This Spring appeared first on Big Foot Tree Service.

This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com

Need help selecting the best tree for your Hardiness zone 7b yard? Understanding different tree species’ characteristics and growing habits will help you plant a tree that fits perfectly in your yard.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered the following tree species and growing information for zone 7b landscape trees.

What is a Landscaping Tree?

Landscaping trees are planted to create diversity and serve one of many purposes on your property. These trees come in all shapes and sizes and can be among the most significant assets to your yard by providing shade, privacy screens, wind protection, wildlife refuge, visual interest (curb appeal), and other uses.

What are the Benefits of Landscape Trees?

Landscape trees reduce air pollution and noise pollution. They also filter water and absorb rainfall, lessening the impact of flood and stormwater and preventing soil erosion. Trees also attract a variety of birds and natural wildlife, providing food and shelter.

Note: A large, healthy tree can absorb approximately 40,000 gallons of groundwater annually, returning it to the atmosphere through evapotranspiration.

What are the Best Trees for Your Front Yard?

Flowers add pops of color, and mulch creates a clean, well-manicured look. With trees, you can balance height and width in your landscape. Trees are among the best ways to draw the eye, add height, and create a relaxing balance. Curb appeal helps sell a home (trees significantly contribute to curb appeal), and here are a few of the best front yard trees:

• Crepe Myrtle (Lagerstroemia) reaches 15 feet
• Blue Spruce (Picea pungens) reaches 75 feet
• Cherry (Prunus avium) reaches 25 to 30 feet
• River Birch (Betula nigra) reaches 60 to 70 feet
• Magnolia (Magnolia) reaches 70 to 80 feet

Tip: Avoid catastrophic structural damages by planting your trees at a safe distance from structures on your landscape.

What are the Most Low-Maintenance Landscape Trees?

Once you have determined your tree’s purpose in your landscape (flowers, evergreen shade, privacy, etc.), you should consider the tree’s maintenance. Some landscape plants drop fruit and nuts, while others grow with invasive or surface roots, disturbing your yard, driveway, and foundation. Consider the following low-maintenance landscape trees:

• Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum) reaches 25 to 35 feet with delicate branches and vibrant foliage
• Jacaranda (Jacaranda) reaches 25 to 40 feet with striking blue and lavender flowers
• Redbud (Cercis) reaches 10 to 20 feet with deep red, bright yellow, or two-colored foliage
• Frangipani (Plumeria) reaches 20 to 25 feet with non-invasive roots and an abundance of beautiful flowers
• Cherry Plum (Prunus cerasifera) reaches 25 feet with deep purple foliage and pink/white flowers

Tip: All tree species require seasonal pruning and thorough inspection after severe weather.

What are the Best Trees to Plant Near a House?

Smaller trees with shallow or non-invasive roots pose little or no risk to your home. Consider the following low-risk tree species:

• Weeping Willow (Salix babylonica) reaches 30 to 40 feet
• Paper Birch (Betula papyrifera) reaches 50 to 70 feet
• Silver Maple (Acer saccharinum) reaches 50 to 80 feet
• Sweetgum (Liquidambar) reaches 60 to 75 feet
• Crabapple (Malus) reaches 15 to 20 feet

Tip: Towering tree species like southern pines and eucalyptus should be given extra space and not planted within 40 to 50 feet of landscape structures.

Why do Landscape Designers Prefer Male Trees?

Trees with male reproductive organs are preferred in landscapes because they don’t drop messy seed pods or fruit. However, they do produce and release pollen.

Note: When female trees, which capture pollen, are absent from significant landscape areas, the entire area can be blanketed by mass amounts of pollen.

What is the Best Pine Tree to Plant in Zone 7b?


Pine trees are often used in landscapes as privacy screens and specimen trees because they are fast-growing, shapely, and evergreen. Consider the following pine tree species for your landscape needs:

• Loblolly Pine (Pinus taeda) reaches 60 to 90 feet
• Austrian or Black Pine (Pinus nigra) reaches 50 to 60 feet and requires ample space to flourish
• Lodgepole Pine (Pinus contorta) reaches 70 to 80 feet
• Red Pine (Pinus resinosa) reaches 50 to 80 feet
• Eastern White Pine (Pinus strobus) reaches 50 to 80 feet

Tip: Avoid planting pines near driveways and carports (overhanging branches can leave your vehicle or structure riddled with sap droppings). Pine trees produce and drip sap. The sap flow is heaviest in spring and early summer. During winter, sap slows down and picks up again as spring approaches.


Marietta Georgia Zone 7b Landscape Trees

In this article, you discovered species information and growing characteristics for several popular zone 7b landscape trees.

Knowing which trees to plant around your home and landscape will help you create a beautiful yard with purpose and elevated curb appeal.

Planting the wrong tree species in the wrong location can result in catastrophic root damage to your landscape, driveway, pathway, foundation, and home if it falls on your roof.

Sources:
usgs.gov/special-topics/water-science-school/science/evapotranspiration-and-water-cycle#overview
extension.tennessee.edu/publications/Documents/SP517.pdf
extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=b625#title11
uaex.uada.edu/publications/pdf/FSA-6126.pdf

For the original version of this article visit: https://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com/choosing-a-7b-landscape-tree-for-your-marietta-yard/

Need help figuring out how to identify and stop root rot from killing your trees, shrubs, or plants? Your ability to quickly identify Armillaria root rot will help you take swift action to eradicate it from your landscape.

72tree.com gathered the following information about the causes, identification, treatment, and prevention of Armillaria root rot.

What is Armillaria Root Rot

Armillaria root rot is a severe tree and woody plant disease. Armillaria can also affect palms, succulents, ferns, and other herbaceous plants. This disease is caused by multiple fungi in the genus Armillaria, also known as shoestring root rot, oak root fungus, honey agaric, or honey fungus.

Note: Armillaria mycelia may live hundreds of years or die within months. Armillaria’s lifespan depends on an available food supply. As long as nourishment is accessible and temperature and moisture are suitable, an Armillaria mycelium network will produce new sporophores (mushrooms) each fruiting season (late summer and fall).

What Causes Armillaria Root Rot?

Armillaria root rot is caused by several species of Armillaria fungus. The disease can occur in many different evergreen and deciduous tree, shrub, and plant species. Armillaria can survive many years in wood debris like old stumps or root systems. New infections typically occur when healthy roots grow close to or graft (inosculate) with diseased roots.

Armillaria Infection Identification

Many known species of Armillaria exist in North America and are not easily distinguishable from one another. The most common and pathogenic species to trees (specifically conifers) are Armillaria mellea and Armillaria ostoyae.


Trees show symptoms and signs of Armillaria infection at different rates. Trees under stress, like during the summer heat or drought, are more likely to become infected and show rapid decline symptoms. Young trees may show symptoms and die within months or days compared to older trees, which may show symptoms for years before dying. Symptoms typically appear as the following:

• Dramatically reduced terminal growth
• Yellowing and browning of foliage
• Whitish resin around a tree’s base
• Creamy-white fans of fungus between bark and wood at the root flare
• Brown or black fungal rhizomes (resembling shoestrings) beneath the bark, on the roots, and in the soil
• Large groups of tan-colored mushrooms (honey mushrooms) near decaying wood in late summer and fall
• Sudden death of young trees (often in groups)

Note: An Armillaria-infected tree’s foliage typically wilts, turns yellow, and browns without falling from the tree.

How Does Armillaria Root Rot Spread?

Some species of Armillaria will produce mushrooms near (or on) infected tree roots or trunks. While new infections can result from airborne spores released by Armillaria mushrooms, the most common way this disease spreads is by underground rhizomorph growth originating from an infected tree, shrub, or plant.

Tip: Infected plants can spread this disease to shrubs and trees with roots in their vicinity (and vice-versa).

Can Armillaria be Treated?

No. Once a host is infected, there is no effective treatment (cure) for Armillaria root rot. The disease can be managed (somewhat) by consistently removing dead trees, shrubs, plants, infected stumps, and entire root systems. Armillaria requires consistent moisture to survive. In large stands or groves, excavation around the root crown can be an effective deterrent but not a cure.

Can a Tree Recover from Root Rot?

Slowing Armillaria root rot in plants, shrubs, and trees is possible by removing affected roots and dead wood if the foliage is in the early stages of root rot or if the decay isn’t widespread. Unfortunately, because digging up larger trees to access decayed or dead roots is virtually impossible, slowing root rot in established trees is very difficult.

There are no chemical controls for honey fungus at present. The only viable option is to dig out the affected plant, shrub, or tree complete with all its roots and burn it.

Which Fungicide is Best for Root Rot Prevention?

Apply any of the most effective fungicides (those with thiophanate-methyl, polyoxin-D, triflumizole, or fludioxonil) preventively to uninfected soil. Once a plant, shrub, or tree is infected with Armillaria root rot, the fungi’s mycelia also contaminate the surrounding soil and are highly resistant to fungicides and other chemical treatments.

Armillaria Root Rot Elimination

The only absolute method to eliminate Armillaria root rot is the complete removal and incineration of infected plants, shrubs, and trees, including their foliage, trunks, stems, and roots.

Eliminating this fungus in contaminated soil requires extended desiccation and exposure to sunlight.

Note: If planting in previously exposed soil, select Armillaria-resistant species. Armillaria-resistant tree species include the following:

• Ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba)
• Tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera)
• Ash (Fraxinus)
• Cypress (Cupressus)
• Cherry (Prunus avium)
• Crabapple (Malus)
• Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus globulus)
• Holly (Ilex)
• Leyland cypress (Cuprocyparis leylandii)
• Maple (Acer)
• Sweetgum (Liquidambar)

Tip: Hire a certified arborist to help you completely remove infected plants, shrubs, and trees, sterilize contaminated soil, and plant new, resistant species in their place. Find an ISA-certified arborist (or verify one’s credentials) by visiting treesaregood.org/findanarborist.

Armillaria Root Rot

In this article, you discovered crucial information about Armillaria root rot and how to eliminate it from your property.

Knowing how to identify and deal with Armillaria root rot will help you remove and destroy infected specimens and preserve unaffected trees, shrubs, and plants.

Failure to quickly identify and prevent Armillaria root rot from spreading across your property will result in tree, shrub, and plant death, leaving your soil virtually useless.

Sources:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5187208.pdf
ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74171.html
extension.umn.edu/plant-diseases/armillaria-root-rot
extension.psu.edu/armillaria-root-rot
extension.unh.edu/blog/2022/02/inosculation-making-connections-woods

This article was first published on: https://www.72tree.com/armillaria-root-rot-identification-treatment-and-prevention/

If you are a homeowner or property owner, the chances are good that you’ve tried out a few DIY or ‘do it yourself’ projects over the years. It can be fun to try your hand at remodeling, painting, and even landscaping around your home and yard. For the most part, we are thrilled that you are enjoying sprucing up your space! But if you are considering removing large overhanging branches on your own, we advise against it. When it comes to trees and landscaping, DIY is not a good idea. 

At Red’s Tree Service, we recommend that our customers don’t ever attempt landscaping their trees by themselves, which includes things like major branch trims or felling a tree There are a few reasons why we think it’s best to hire a professional crew like ours to handle your landscaping, so continue reading to find out what not to do, and what we recommend instead.

Don’t Mess With Ladders and Heights

One of the skills that professional tree services can offer is equipment to handle heights. Something like a ladder would never be secure enough for you to climb up into a tree and stable enough to let you trim it. No matter how certain you might be that a ladder or other device can hold you up while you trim, we promise, it’s just not worth the risk.

Instead, call a professional tree service like Red’s where our crew will come with trucks and professional equipment that will allow us to reach the tops of trees with no risk to us or yourself. We would rather keep things safe than sorry, no matter what your good intentions might be. 

Don’t Use a Chainsaw

If you’ve ever handled a chainsaw, you know that it takes a bit of practice and skill to be able to use it safely. Many people don’t realize this, thinking they can just purchase a chainsaw and start managing the pruning and landscaping of their tall trees all on their own. 

We can’t emphasize enough how important it is to not attempt to use a chainsaw while on a ladder or while pruning trees. There are so many reasons for this, but if the chainsaw were to malfunction, if a branch were to get caught in the chainsaw, or if a limb were to fall unexpectedly, knocking you down with it, would lead to disaster or major injury. 

Chainsaws are really dangerous pieces of machinery that should only be used by those that can handle them safely and confidently. If you do own a chainsaw, know that it is still a risky piece of machinery, and should only ever be used when standing on firm ground, not with branches or limbs overhead. For the rest of your yard pruning, you should leave it to the experts.

Don’t Take Electrical Risks

One factor that you may not have considered when thinking about pruning your own tree limbs is the risk of electrical accidents. If a large limb accidentally falls onto an electric pole, it can send dangerous currents of electricity back up the limbs and to the person trimming the tree, causing major injuries or death. 

Another thing to consider is if a live electric wire falls to the ground, now making the entire area unsafe for anyone who might encounter it on accident or on purpose. We know this sounds scary, but that’s why we take this safety advice so seriously. Large tree limbs cause accidents like this all the time, and we don’t want anything like that to happen to you or your family. 

Don’t Underestimate Gravitational Pull

Most of us learned about gravity in elementary school, but there’s a big difference between knowing the theory of gravitational pull, and understanding how trees and limbs might fall. Professionals who cut down trees every day are experts at using the proper tools and techniques to ensure that a tree falls or lands in a way that is safe for the surrounding area. That way there is no risk to people, property, or electrical wires as we discussed. 

People who are not experts at managing the gravitational force of heavy limbs and trees often accidentally send trees falling in the wrong places, causing severe accidents or destruction of property. Long story short, it simply isn’t safe for most people to attempt to bring down a tree. 

How To Solve Your Landscaping Problems

After reading all of these negative scenarios, you may be wondering: how can I deal with a tree or branches that are dangerous and threatening my home and well-being? The answer is with Red’s Tree Service!

Our team of skilled professionals has all the tools and training they need to keep you and your home safe while removing potentially dangerous foliage. Even if you aren’t quite sure if a branch or tree needs to be removed, you can request an assessment of your yard so we can determine if your tree is posing a threat, if it needs a trim, or if it needs to be removed. 

Get the Landscaping Service You Need!

No matter what the challenge might be, Red’s Tree Service is here to help you with your trees. Give us a call to assess your property, trim, remove trees, remove stumps, or help nourish your trees with deep root fertilization. We are available to customers across the MidSouth, so give us a call today!

This post first appeared on https://redstreeservice.com

There’s something so beautiful about sitting under the shade of a huge tree in the summertime, isn’t there? Thanks to our forefathers in the Mid-South, there are plenty of old trees that have been planted and maintained around town, and plenty more people are planting new trees all the time. We know just how special trees are to making your yard feel like a beautiful and comfortable home.

If you are considering adding a new tree to your lawn, we are thrilled for you! But there are a few things you should consider to help maintain the safety of the tree and your home and property. At Red’s Tree Service, we’ve seen it all before, and we know what can happen when you plant too close to your home.

Let’s go through a few things to consider before planting that beautiful new tree:

Potential Damage

The first thing that many people think of when considering adding a tree near their house is potential fall damage. This is a real risk! For mature trees, large limbs can fall when disturbed during storms or wind, and if a tree comes down entirely on top of your home, it can be terrifying and deadly. Some trees attract insects or diseases that might weaken them, making them an even greater fall risk. 

These reasons alone make a great case for planting trees further away from the house and having them assessed often to make sure they are in good health.

Soil Moisture and Concrete

One of the surprising things to consider when thinking about trees on your property is soil moisture. Because the roots of trees soak up water, the soil surrounding it can contract and expand over time, putting pressure on the foundation and potentially causing cracks and other problems. 

This is also true for concrete like sidewalks or driveways near your house. It is common to see paved areas pushed up, cracked, and completely broken due to tree roots.

Research Your Roots

Speaking of roots, it’s worth doing a little research on the kind of root systems that your desired tree might have. Depending on the type of tree, some root systems grow to be one to three times the width of its canopy and in some cases, twice as wide as the tree is high! This means a massive root system that can take over the entire property if given a chance. 

There are also some tree types with more aggressive roots, like maples, willows, and elms, that should be planted far from foundations, utility lines, and septic tanks. This is why it is always important to research which kinds of trees you want to use. If you have a smaller property, it might be better to choose a different tree with less pernicious roots. Ultimately, you don’t want to risk the integrity of your home’s foundation and structure because of a tree you haphazardly planted years ago. 

If you already have a tree on your property that is located close to your home and you are worried about the roots, give Red’s Tree Service a call to give you a free quote before attempting to remove the tree yourself. There is no guarantee that every tree’s roots will cause problems, and it’s better to check things out and be safe than sorry.

Be Prepared to Clean Up Branches, Twigs, and Leaves

A smaller but still tedious task with tree care is to manage debris. After storms and wind, you can almost always expect to be picking up branches, twigs, and blown leaves and to be cleaning them out of gutters if they are over your house. This is a big responsibility because if these tasks are neglected, it can harm your house and make a mess of your yard. 

Keep all of these tips in mind when thinking about trees and their proximity to your house!

Take Care of Your Trees with Red’s Tree Service

The good news is that you won’t have to make these decisions alone! Whether you are considering trees to plant on your property or are thinking of buying a house with mature trees already planted, there is plenty to consider, and Red’s Tree Service is here to help.

Risk Assessment

Red’s Tree Service offers risk assessments for your trees, where we come out to your property and determine if a tree is causing a risk to your home or assets. We can advise possible solutions, such as trimming or removing the tree. We can also determine if a tree is healthy or sick and can follow up with annual visits to ensure that it remains safe for you and your family. 

Preventative Maintenance

Preventative maintenance means pruning, trimming, and fertilizing your trees and shrubs. We can remove deadwood that not only makes the tree look better but can help it to have a healthier, longer life, hopefully preventing falls or damage.

Tree Removal

When necessary, we provide tree removal services to clear up fallen trees and branches after a storm or from a dying tree. We can also remove and grind the stump, depending on your needs.

Deep Root Fertilization

Another way to encourage the long, healthy life of your trees is through our deep-root fertilization treatments. We add vital nutrients back into the soul that the tree needs to thrive and flourish. 

If you are in need of some tree expertise, don’t hesitate to call Red’s Tree Service! We have been caring for trees across the Mid-South for over 40 years and know that we have the right solution for whatever tree problem you have! 

This post first appeared on https://redstreeservice.com

Need help deciding which trees with twisted trunks and branches to use as a specimen on your landscape? Knowing which tree species grow in a twisted form will help you determine which one to plant as a centerpiece on your beautiful landscape.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered the following species and growing information for naturally twisty trees to consider for your landscape’s specimen tree.

What Causes a Twisted Tree?

Spiral or twisted patterns are clever tree survival adaptations. Since the bark and wood of trees do not grow in unison, the spiral pattern beneath the bark may not be evident until the bark drops from the tree.

Tree wood cells that must support heavy loads of massive branches and a dense crown, growing in an excessively windy location, or grow on unusually uneven land, like shore pines that grow in windy and sandy areas, can grow in a twisted pattern to provide more strength to the tree and its branches.

Environmental factors like prevailing winds, compromised roots, and physical barriers can cause trees to twist and adapt. A spiral wood grain efficiently and evenly delivers water and nutrients throughout the tree when straight grain wouldn’t be sufficient. Other common theories include the following:

• Tree genetics
• Heliotropism (tracking the sun)
• The Coriolis Effect (causing the clockwise wind pattern and ocean current in the northern hemisphere)

Regardless of why they twist, they are a sight to behold as they mature. Consider the following twisty tree species for your landscape needs:

Jack Pine (Pinus banksiana)

Jack pine needles typically grow in bundles of two, the tree’s cones are tightly wrapped and slightly curved, while the tree’s bark is thin and flaky on younger trees, maturing into thicker plates as they age. This species has crooked branching and trunk development when grown in open landscapes (rather than forested or crowded situations), giving it an oversized bonsai appearance.

USDA Hardiness Zones – 2 through 6
Mature Size – This tree reaches 40 to 50 feet with a spread of 15 to 20 feet
Lifespan – 80 to 100+ years

Scotch Pine (Pinus sylvestris)

The Scotch pine is a fast-growing, medium-sized evergreen conifer that typically grows with a conical to columnar (often irregular and contorted) habit and then develops an open, rounded irregular, or gnarled crown as it ages. Cones are small and rounded, while needles typically grow in twisted bunches of two.

USDA Hardiness Zones – 3 through 7
Mature Size – This tree reaches 30 to 60 feet with a spread of 30 to 40 feet
Lifespan – 150 to 300 years

Japanese Black Pine (Pinus thunbergii)

The Japanese black pine is an attractive evergreen conifer tree with a typically flat-topped pyramidal form with no prominent central leader. As this species ages, it grows irregular and asymmetrical, with drooping branches. The tree is noted for its shrubby habit and curved trunk.

USDA Hardiness Zones – 5 through 9
Mature Size – This tree reaches 20 to 60 feet with a spread of 10 to 20 feet
Lifespan – 15 to 20 years

Cork Oak (Quercus suber)

Unlike other oak trees, cork oak is a vibrant evergreen. The thick, gnarled dark grey bark is the portion known as “cork.” This tree can form a twisted trunk with sprawling branches.

USDA Hardiness Zones – 7 through 9
Mature Size – This tree reaches 30 to 65 feet with an equally sized spread
Lifespan – Over 200 years

Overcup Oak (Quercus lyrata)

Overcup oak is a medium-sized tree with an irregular crown and twisted branches. Native to North American east coastal plains, this tree’s often twisted growth reduces its value as a timber tree.

USDA Hardiness Zones – 5 through 9
Mature Size – This tree reaches 45 to 70 feet with a spread of 35 to 50 feet
Lifespan – 80 to 100+ years

Willow (Peppermint) Myrtle (Agonis flexuosa)

This species resembles a weeping willow (Salix babylonica) tree from a distance due to its long, drooping leaves. It is distinctive because of its powerful peppermint fragrance. This tree produces clusters of small white flowers, and its weeping branches partially conceal its twisted trunk.

USDA Hardiness Zones – 8b through 11
Mature Size – This tree reaches 10 to 15 feet with a spread of 8 to 10 feet
Lifespan – 50 to 80 years

Twisted Acacia (Acacia schaffneri)

Twisted Acacia is a spiny, spreading, multi-stemmed large shrub or small tree. The stems have many paired, pin-like spines and are pale to blackish. When young, a twisted Acacia needs aggressive pruning to maximize its gnarled trunk and branch growth.

USDA Hardiness Zones – 9 through 11
Mature Size – This tree reaches 20 to 25 feet with a spread of 25 to 30 feet
Lifespan – 30 years

Trees With Twisted Trunks

Some trees have a tendency for a “pronounced” twisted appearance where the trunk deviates from the species’ typical straight growth. Planting a tree that exhibits twisted trunk or branch growth adds curiosity and interest to a landscape and serves as a focal point or specimen tree. When choosing a tree species, select one that has this tendency. It is not guaranteed that an individual young tree will develop pronounced twists, but the result is worth the gamble.

Twisty Trees

In this article, you discovered species and growing information about several trees that grow with twisted trunks, branches, or both.

Knowing which tree species have twisting growth patterns will help you decide which to use as your landscape’s specimen tree.

Lack of info about twisted tree species may cause you to plant the wrong tree.

Sources:
wta.org/news/signpost/why-do-trees-grow-in-spirals
savetheredwoods.org/blog/forest/why-so-some-trees-grow-in-spirals/
nfs.unl.edu/woody-plants/jack-pine
plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/pinus-sylvestris/
uaex.uada.edu/yard-garden/resource-library/plant-week/Pinus-thunbergii-Japanese-Black-Pine-12-21-2017.aspx
sites.redlands.edu/trees/species-accounts/cork-oak/
rangeplants.tamu.edu/plant/twisted-acacia-huisachillo/
selectree.calpoly.edu/tree-detail/agonis-flexuosa

For the original version of this article visit: http://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com/5-specimen-trees-for-your-marietta-georgia-yard/

Tired of pooling water and dying plants, shrubs, and trees on your property? Understanding what well-drained soil is and the crucial role it plays in keeping your landscape alive will help you take action to correct poor soil drainage.

72tree.com gathered the following information about what well-drained soil is, why it is essential to plant life, and what you can do to improve your soil’s drainage.

Well-Drained Soil Defined

Well-drained soil allows water to move through it quickly and not pool. Standing water or saturated soil deprives roots of oxygen and can lead to root rot, disease, and decline (ironically) from hydraulic failure in the plant’s vascular system. Some plants, shrubs, and tree species are adapted to tolerate saturated conditions longer than others but will eventually suffer a similar fate.

Poor Soil Drainage Symptoms

Besides pooling water and soil erosion, plants growing in poorly-drained soil suffer from a lack of oxygen, resulting in root death and the plant’s rapid decline. Other indicators include:

• Stunted or slow growth with yellowing leaves
• Leaf scorch or leaf burn
• Edema (spots and blisters) may appear on stems and leaves
• The plant’s crown may quickly wither and rot

Note: Edema is a plant disorder caused by roots absorbing more water than the leaves can transpire (a common problem resulting from poor soil drainage). This excess water ruptures cells and appears as water-soaked patches turning corky and unsightly.

When soils are improperly managed, they can become compacted. This condition can occur during and after construction. Foot and vehicular traffic also compresses the soil pores and limits the oxygen and water that would otherwise move through the soil.

How Do I Know if My Soil is Well-Drained

Besides watching for pooling water and other symptoms, you can test and improve your soil by doing the following:

1 – Dig a hole about 12 inches wide and 12 inches deep
2 – Fill the hole with water
3 – After it completely drains, refill it with water and mark the time
4 – Note how long the water takes to drain

The water level in soil with excellent drainage should drop 1 to 2 inches per hour. Any longer, and you should take steps to improve the soil.

How to Improve Soil Drainage

Soil is composed of sand, silt, and clay particles varying in size. Sand has the largest particle size, and clay has the smallest. When soil contains large sand proportions, it has more pore space and is more sharply drained (similar to a sandy beach). Soil with high clay content has significantly less pore space. Reduced pore space slows water drainage and causes the soil to hold water for longer periods. Consider the following soil structure improvement methods:

Amend the Soil with Compost – Add organic matter to improve drainage in poorly drained soil. Organic matter, like compost, improves soil structure by increasing soil aggregation (soil aggregates are groups of soil particles). The space between these aggregates creates the space required for holding and exchanging air and water.

Spread compost 3 inches thick over the soil surface and work it into the top 10 inches of soil with a shovel, garden fork, or tillage.

Tip: Using a rototiller too frequently breaks down soil aggregates, defeating your soil improvement efforts.

Plant Cover Crops – Cover crops can help significantly improve soil drainage by increasing organic matter, and their roots help break apart or expand compacted soil. Some popular cover crop plant species include:

• Alfalfa (Medicago sativa)
• Buckwheat (Fagopyrum esculentum)
• Oat (Avena sativa)
• Winter Rye (Secale cereale)
• Crimson Clover (Trifolium incarnatum)
• Mustard (Brassica napus)

Cover crops are sometimes called “green manure” or “living mulch.” These species can add nitrogen to your soil, improve drainage, and boost fertility (without applying chemical fertilizers).

Aerate the Soil – Aerating can help relieve soil compaction. A core aerator removes soil plugs, leaving holes to loosen the soil, improving drainage, and getting air to roots.

Add Earthworms – Earthworms naturally and quickly improve soil pore size, water infiltration rate, water content, and water-holding capacity. Their burrowing tends to reach over 3 feet in depth, breaking up hardpans and promoting deep soil structure and aggregation.

Note: Soil with healthy earthworm populations drains up to 10 times faster than soil without them.

Well-Drained Soil

In this article, you discovered information defining well-drained soil, why it is essential to plant life, and how you can reverse poor soil drainage.

Recognizing when your soil is not draining properly will help you take prompt action to correct it and keep your plants, shrubs, and trees alive and thriving.

Your misunderstanding of soil drainage can lead to hydraulic failure in your landscape’s plant life, leaving you with diseased, declining, or dead plants, shrubs, and trees.

Sources:
agebb.missouri.edu/agforest/archives/v10n2/gh14.htm
missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems/environmental/overwatering
hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/testing-and-improving-soil-drainage
dpi.nsw.gov.au/agriculture/soils/guides/soil-biology/earthworms

This article was first published on: https://www.72tree.com/what-is-well-drained-soil/

Winter is a good time to prune trees. With the leaves gone, a tree’s structure is clearly visible. This provides a direct sightline to the tree’s interior growth habits. As such, it is often easier for an arborist to identify issues and make sound pruning decisions. Since pruning alters both the form and growth of the plant, it’s important to consider all the factors involved when undertaking winter pruning.

Some things to think about: Is the tree close to a building, walkway or power lines? What is its condition? Are any structural defects or storm damage present? What are the landscape functions provided by the tree and how will pruning impact those functions? Is the tree too dense? Does it need shaping? In essence, why is important to prune the tree and when should that happen?

A Reason to Prune

Removal of dead, dying or diseased branches helps promote tree health. Virtually all urban trees benefit from this type of periodic cleaning. Improved safety also results when weak branches are removed. Limbs that overhang buildings, parking areas or walkways should be given particular attention. Winter pruning can address these tasks, making trees healthier and safer.

Beyond routine pruning, consider the specific purpose of trees and shrubs in the landscape. Pruning may be critical to preserving that function. For example, pruning can help maintain a hedge used as a border or barrier on a property. Appearance is another major purpose of trees and shrubs in most landscapes. Pruning can help control size, improve a tree’s form and keep plants well-proportioned – enhancing the overall appearance of the property.

For young trees, pruning aids in the development of a desirable and stable form. Most structural defects that occur in older trees can be prevented by pruning when the tree is young. Proper care can establish a strong, central stem and help maintain branch size and distribution.

Whatever the objective, care should be taken to minimize wound size and loss of live branches. Younger trees fare somewhat better when live tissue is removed than mature trees. Condition of the tree can help govern to what extent it is pruned. Industry standards have specified that no more than 25% of the crown should be removed. For mature trees or those showing signs of distress, even less may be appropriate.

A Season to Prune

Pruning during dormancy (in winter) is common because it results in a vigorous burst of spring growth. Fresh pruning wounds are exposed for only a short period of time before new spring growth begins. Additionally, because there are no leaves to manufacture sugar in the winter, there is no interruption to the tree’s growth cycle. It is less stressful for the tree and, as spring begins, all growth efforts are re-directed to buds on the remaining branches.

Pruning during winter can also play a role in managing insects and disease. Oaks are one example. Pruning wounds made during spring, when oak wilt diseases are active in many geographies, allow spores to infect the tree. Beetles that carry Dutch elm disease spores can also be attracted by fresh cuts. Pruning when these diseases are not active inhibits their spread. Understanding of the species and associated insects and disease problems in your area is crucial when making these pruning decisions.

Timing is particularly important for species that produce fruit or flowers. If the goal of pruning is to enhance flowering for trees that bloom in mid to late summer, winter or early spring are the best times. This includes species like rose of Sharon and crape myrtles. However, for plants that bloom earlier in the growing season such as magnolia or azalea, prune after they finish blooming.

Right Time, Right Place

Even if you knew a surgeon was a skilled expert, you wouldn’t undergo a medical procedure without first understanding the purpose. So it should be with tree pruning, especially when the significant impact to overall tree health is considered. Knowing why cuts will be made is the basis for determining which cuts should be made. The ability to better see the tree’s form, and identify issues that might otherwise go undetected, makes winter the ideal time for an initial evaluation.

The post Winter Pruning: When and Why appeared first on Tree Topics.

This post first appeared on https://www.bartlett.com/

What’s worse for trees and shrubs? Ice or snow? Think of it this way: snow can be gentle, while ice can be harsh. That about sums it up.

During the winter in New Jersey and elsewhere, conditions can range from temperate to downright freezing cold. When the thermometer reads below zero, you can bet your trees and shrubs are experiencing some shock and stress.

How Ice Storms Affect Trees and Shrubs

When ice storms come through town, what happens is this: a cold rain falls down on trees and shrubs. The temperature lowers. Then, that rain freezes as ice, sticking to the bark and branches. Ice is heavier than snow. Moreover, when ice is particularly heavy, guess what happens? Small branches break because they’re coated with heavy ice. All it takes is an ice coating of, say, a fraction of an inch, to do damage. Add to that a strong, mighty wind, and your trees and shrubs could end up losing a lot of branches and such.

For your knowledge, a branch is more likely to snap from ice if it’s already weak, isn’t growing upright, has a sharp angle, or if it has a layer of bark trapped in its joint. Furthermore, you can tell if you have a weak tree if it doesn’t have a single central stem (aka a “leader”) and/or its branching system is atypical.

To help protect your trees from ice damage, it’s best to prune them properly when they’re young, so they can grow up to be strong. For older trees that haven’t been attended to, a professional intervention might be needed to help correct imperfections. Someone who works with trees daily is likely to be able to tell you if a tree is diseased, weak, or stressed, and then offer some solutions to remedy problems.

Ice Damage on Shrubs

As for shrubs, ice can definitely weigh them down, more so than snow. It’s best to leave them alone, letting the ice melt as the temperature rises.

If you’re thinking of getting some new trees for your property in New Jersey, and you’d like some helpful advice on what to buy and what not to buy, call Big Foot Tree Service. Ask about the type of trees that are especially hardy and can withstand harsh New Jersey winters. Contact Big Foot Tree Service at 973-885-8000.

The post Is Ice Worse than Snow for Trees and Shrubs? appeared first on Big Foot Tree Service.

This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com

When it comes to gorgeous, long-lasting summer blossoms, there isn’t much that can compare to the prolific and lovely crape myrtle. The Crape Myrtle, or Lagerstroemia Lythracae, is a lovely class of flowering trees and shrubs of around 50 different species. Also known as loosestrife, the crape (or crepe) myrtle is a highly diverse plant. For instance, did you know that some are deciduous, others are evergreen, and they can range in size from barely a foot to over 100 feet tall? It’s true! The dwarf myrtle averages at around 3 feet, while the Lord Crepe Myrtle (pretty accurate name, if we don’t say) towers at around 34 meters or 111 feet! 

No matter the species, the crepe myrtle all come together in their highly desirable landscaping features. Features such as their gorgeous delicate frilly and rippled blooms, the peeling bark with the distinct texture that comes with it, and a color palette ranging from deep purple and lavender to ivory, gleaming white, light pink, magenta, and a deep red ensure that the crepe myrtle is a standout in any environment. 

Their native range is vast, and local species can be found from India to Asia and Indonesia to Australia. From as far North as Central China to the bottom of the world, you can find them just about anywhere! Not only that, but they’ve taken hold in the United States in a major way and can be found growing wild all throughout the nation.  

Yes, the crepe myrtle is an incredible and varied plant, perfect for your home and garden no matter what the style. But what do we need to do to ensure that our crape myrtle thrives? Well, that’s just what this reading is all about! Keep going to learn all about caring for your crepe myrtle. 

Uses of Crepe Myrtle 

Cultivated from California to Japan and everywhere in between, particularly in tropical and subtropical climates where the warm weather really lets them thrive and bloom as long as possible, the crepe myrtle is popular as a colorful hedge or a fantastically decorative privacy screen. Additionally, larger trees can make a really stunning focal point, and attention-grabbing spectacle no matter the landscape. Due to their incredible size diversity, certain species can even be cultivated in containers. 

Crape myrtles are cultivated worldwide, most often in tropical and subtropical climates where the warm weather helps them to thrive and show off their outstanding beauty. These plants are often used as colorful hedges or privacy screens, while larger plants make amazing focal points and eye-catching specimens in any landscape. Smaller varieties may even be grown in containers.

How to care for your crepe myrtle

Provided you live in the right climate, meaning anywhere from tropical to at least somewhat temperate, your crape myrtle is a fairly low-maintenance option for the amount of flair it can bring to your landscape or garden. However, it DOES require a few specific care points to really ensure those blossoms dazzle. Check out the following list to keep your crape myrtle in stunning form: 

• Place in Full Sunlight

Your crape myrtle wants at least 6 hours of full sunlight to thrive. Any less and blossoms won’t be as numerous, and their colors may be less vibrant than you would like. 

• Use Healthy and Proper Soil

You’ll be happy to know that the crape myrtle isn’t particularly demanding when it comes to regulating the ph of the soil. However, you’ll find they do best in neutral to a slightly acidic substrate. One tip to remember is that a crape myrtle should be planted in a well-draining area, however, as the plant is prone to root rot if left in too much water. 

• Lightly Fertilize 
• A slow-release fertilizer high in nitrogen will optimize your crape myrtle’s flowers and growth. Just make sure not to overfertilize with a choice that promotes leaf growth, or the green may push your flowers out of the picture! 

• Get Ahold of Fungus Early 
• It’s important to watch out for powdery mildew, as well as other fungal infections such as sooty mold. Treatment with a general fungicide can work wonders to avoid an infected plant. 

• Prune Lightly in Winter or Early Spring
• The crape myrtle is a new wood-blooming plant, so it’s important to prune in late winter or early spring in order to stimulate the flowering process. Be sure and remove tangled branches, suckers, and irregular shapes in order to optimize the form of your plant. 

• Optimize your crepe’s features by exposing the trunk. 
• The crape myrtle is a beautiful plant with distinctive peeling bark. This is a truly stunning feature, especially on the larger varietals. By pruning away lower branches on roughly the bottom 4-5 feet (depending on the size, of course) of the trunk, you can really unlock the potential of this delicate plant. 

• Deadhead to stimulate flower growth 
• You can stimulate flower growth in early-blooming varieties of crape myrtle via judicious deadheading, but remember that this will lead to a decrease in the second bloom. 

Call Red’s Tree Service for all arboreal needs! 

Crape myrtles are a stunning addition to any type of landscape, no matter if you are looking for a colorful hedge, an eye-catching specimen or just a chromatic burst of floral wonder to add to your yard. If you know how to properly care for these plants, then you can ensure that you have an amazing show of blooms all summer long. 

Red’s Tree Service has the best arborists available in and around Memphis and the surrounding areas, and we know just how to make your landscape pop. Call today to see how good your lawn and garden can look! 

This post first appeared on https://redstreeservice.com