Month: May 2021

Nobody wants termites and other insects infesting their home or the surrounding yard. If you have dead trees or plants on your property, it’s important to have them removed by a professional like Big Foot Tree Service. Termites thrive on and are attracted to dead trees.

Termites have mouths that tear at pieces of woody material. They’re hungry buggers, known as the “silent destroyers” who can cause a lot of costly damage to people’s homes and property. Termites look different than carpenter ants– they have no “waist,” but, rather, a rather rectangular body without any constriction. With straight, beaded antennae and four wings of equal size and shape, termites are the kind of bugs that you don’t want to see in your vicinity.

What can you do to deter termites from your place? First, do your best to eliminate areas where moisture gathers, such as near leaky pipes and AC units. Next, keep house vents clear and open. Finally, get rid of excessive plant cover and wood mulch close to your home.

If you have firewood, lumber or even paper in or near your home, these things attract termites since they’re food sources. Should you notice mud tubes on your home’s exterior walls, wooden beams, and/or stumps, those could indicate termites. If you tap a piece of wood and it sounds hollow, chances are termites have already enjoyed many dinners there.

Basically, if there’s wet, decaying wood anywhere in or near your home, termites will do their best to establish a colony there. A stump, for instance, becomes an easy nesting area for various termites.

Big Foot Tree Service can remove stumps and the root crown of felled trees. If needed, the area can be chemically treated by a licensed pest control operator, too.

Do you have an unattractive, termite-inviting stump in your yard? Whether it’s just one, or several, the team at Big Foot Tree Service can remove stumps with care and respect for your property. Located in Wayne, New Jersey, you can schedule an appointment with Big Foot Tree Service by calling 973-885-8000. Big Foot Tree Service serves homeowners throughout Passaic and Bergen Counties.

The post Blog first appeared on Big Foot Tree Service. This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com

Trimming your trees is key to keeping them healthy, happy, and beautiful all year round! It helps remove dead wood that saps your tree’s energy reserves, improves air and nutrient circulation, and keeps it a more manageable size. But when is the best time of year to trim a regional tree? The expert team at Red’s Tree Service is here to help by sharing the best times and techniques for trimming trees across the Mid-South. 

When should I trim my regional trees?

The Mid-South is known for its lush green canopy of native trees, bushes, and shrubs that flourish during the summer months. As fall and winter approach, temperatures drop, the greenery fades, and trimming season looms! Most trees in the Mid-South will respond best when trimmed in late winter. 

Tennessee and the Mid-South are zone 7 areas, meaning that the first frost will happen around November 15 and the last one about April 15. Within this rough date range, most plants will enter a period of dormancy and pause their growth so they can weather the cold. If you prune during their active growing seasons, trees might not be able to fully heal their wounds before the cold forces them into hibernation; pruning in late winter gives trees the chance to start healing as soon as seasons change.

During their dormancy, and throughout winter, most trees do not have leaves, which helps expose problematic issues such as crossing branches or problematic growth problems. You’ll be able to get at these problem areas easier, too, without branches or leaves getting in your way. 

All species of trees in the Mid-South will generally respond well to tree trimming during the winter, but trimming during the spring and summer may in some cases be appropriate. Although the sap is rising in the tree during this time period, trimming during early spring allows for easy identification of problematic branches before the tree has fully leafed out. Additionally, for tree species that flower in mid to late summer, early spring trimming is a great way to encourage the tree to produce more flower buds on the remaining branches.

Trimming your trees in the winter also encourages new growth in the spring, but note that it’s best to do it after the coldest part of the season to avoid leaving the tree vulnerable to extreme cold snaps.

Best practices for keeping your trees trimmed and healthy

Now that we’ve established when to trim your trees, let’s take a look at some best practices for doing so! 

First, get rid of anything that could cause damage to your property or others. Homeowners should regularly inspect their trees for potentially hazardous developments, including hanging dead limbs or sagging branches. These branches could fall and damage cars, houses, or other limbs, and it’s best to contact a qualified arborist like Red’s Tree Service to remove them as quickly as possible. By taking good care and working with a professional tree management service, you can extend the life of the tree and protect your property.

Sometimes, dead limbs and problem areas can be identified by evaluating the color of the leaves. If leaves on a specific limb are brown, dry, or dead, that’s a good indication that that limb should be removed. Whenever possible, take preventive measures to anticipate the failure of a healthy tree.

Keeping an eye on how your trees are growing is a great way to head off problems before they develop. Watching for crossed or rubbing branches, false crowns, drooping limbs, and so on will give you a good idea of when pruning is necessary. 

Finally, consider the species of the tree you’re pruning. Different species will best respond differently to trimming at different times and with different techniques. For example, flowering and fruiting trees are best pruned in winter, so they’ll be primed to start healing as the seasons change. Trimming these trees at the wrong time can compromise their flower and fruit growth, and can cause irregular or unappealing growth later on.

Consult the experts

Don’t put your property, your trees, or yourself at risk. If a pruning is beyond what you feel comfortable attempting, call in our experienced team at Red’s Tree Services. Using a licensed tree service professional like Red’s will ensure a correct pruning and trimming job will be done. This will help create and maintain strong tree structures that will look beautiful and prevent any safety hazards.

Certain species of trees require more precise timing and different approaches for proper pruning and trimming. Having an experienced arborist on hand will not only keep you and your trees safe, but will produce the best possible results. Whether you’re looking for guidance on DIY tree trimming, or a quote on professional assistance with winter pruning, get in touch with us today! Red’s Tree Services are always here to help keep your property safe and your trees healthy.

This post first appeared on https://redstreeservice.com

Root pruning can prevent your tree from dying when it comes time to transplant it. Knowing the ins and outs of root pruning will help you smoothly relocate your tree.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered the following information about what root pruning is, why you should root prune, how to do it, and when it is necessary.

What Is Root Pruning

Root pruning is the practice of encouraging tree root growth (before transplanting) by severing existing roots at the tree’s drip line – the ground equivalent of the outer extremity of the tree’s crown.

This practice encourages new feeder root growth within the root ball to be transplanted along with its tree. Smaller root balls, with multiple feeder roots, help the tree acclimate faster to its new environment and soil.

Established trees have roots that reach out far beyond the tree’s drip line. These longer roots are used for anchoring and support. Most small feeder roots, which deliver water, food, and nutrients to the tree, will likely be found on these far-reaching roots at a greater distance from the tree.

It is nearly impossible, in most cases, to include all of these roots in the tree’s root ball. Yet, the more roots a tree has when it is transplanted, the faster and better it will adjust to its new location. Thus, root pruning is performed to encourage root growth before being transplanted.

Watch this video to see how root pruning can be accomplished without cutting roots.

Why Root Pruning Is Necessary

When a tree is unearthed for transplanting, the portion of the roots taken (the root ball) is only the circumference of the drip line, often less. Since the tree will be dependent on this root ball for most of its nutrients and water, it will need feeder roots within the root ball to continue sustaining itself during transplant shock. To encourage feeder root growth, closer to and within the drip line, the long anchor roots are pruned off.

How To Prune Roots

Root pruning is the severing of tree roots around the tree’s entire drip line. This can be accomplished by slicing down with a sharp spade. Consider the following steps:

1. Dig a trench around the outer edge of the tree’s drip line
2. Cut any roots you encounter with a sharp spade or shovel edge
3. Keep going until you have dug down far enough to sever the majority of the roots
4. Once you are satisfied with your work, fill in the trench with the soil you dug out
5. Replace the soil as it was, with the topsoil on top
6. Finish the pruning job by deep watering the tree

Note: The larger the tree’s root ball, the more feeder roots it will have for a successful transplant. However, larger root balls are increasingly heavy. Transplanting an established tree is not a job for one person, and you should consider calling a professional tree service for assistance.

When To Root Prune

Transplanting a tree isn’t a project that can be done on a whim without severely crippling or killing your tree. It’s going to take time, observe the following:

• If your tree will be moved in the fall, prune the tree’s roots in the spring; if the tree will be transplanted in the spring, prune the tree’s roots in early fall. This window of 6-7 months is enough time for new feeder root development.
• When transplant day arrives, dig out the trench and extract the root ball. Look closely and find that your previous pruning activities caused many new feeder roots to grow within the root ball (right where you need them to be).

Note: Root pruning, besides stressing your tree, leaves multiple open wounds that can fall victim to opportunistic pathogens, fungi, and pests.

Tip: Avoid root pruning activities if your other trees or plant life have recently been affected by disease or insect infestation. A professional tree service should be called in to evaluate and treat any disease or insect problems before starting a root pruning project.

More Reasons To Root Prune

Moving or transplanting a tree are not the only reasons to root prune. Root pruning also serves to:

1. Maintain the size of “dwarf” trees. When dwarf trees start to grow beyond their desired height or crown size, root pruning will shock the tree, causing it to divert its energy to root growth.
2. Encourage fruit trees to bloom. The tree thinks it is being attacked and sets a stress crop to propagate itself.
3. Slow the growth of potted plants that have outgrown their container. If you don’t want to move it to a larger container, root pruning and replanting (in the same container) with fresh soil should do the trick.
4. Remove surface roots that disrupt or invade your lawn (continuous damage to these roots may cause disease or infestation to weaken and eventually kill your tree).

For more on how to stop, remove, and kill invasive roots, visit toddsmariettatreeservices.com/tree-root-killing-removal-cutting/

Root Pruning

In this article, you discovered information about root pruning, why it should be done, how you can safely do it, and when it should be done.

Proper root pruning allows you to safely transplant an established tree without causing it to undergo severe shock.

Failure to root prune before moving an established tree leaves it without necessary feeder roots, starving it of water and nutrients, and can lead to its rapid decline and death.

Sources:
hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/root-prune-guidelines.shtml
hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/transplanting-established-trees-shrubs/
extension.tennessee.edu/publications/Documents/sp571.pdf
extension.psu.edu/transplanting-or-moving-trees-and-shrubs-in-the-landscape

Avoid having to consume pesticide filled fruits, or being limited to what you can grow because you don’t live in a tropical region. Knowing how to grow fruit trees in your home will help you eliminate unhealthy chemical consumption and enable the enjoyment of growing your own fruit.

72tree.com assembled the following growing and care information about five fruit tree species you can successfully grow indoors.

Indoor Fruit Tree Species

The following 5 fruit tree species adapt well to indoor growth without requiring any over-the-top or intensive care requirements:

1. Dwarf Meyer Lemon Trees (Citrus × meyeri)

Dwarf Meyer lemon trees are one of the most popular fruit trees to grow indoors. Like most citrus trees, this species is self-pollinating, dispensing with the need for a second tree to accomplish fertilization.

Fruit – Meyer lemon trees typically bear fruit after 2 or three years, depending on their growing environment. While the trees are self-pollinating, you can increase the crop yield by using a small paintbrush to gently spread the pollen from flower to flower when the tree is in bloom.

Soil Requirements – The most appropriate soil for growing healthy Meyer lemon trees is slightly acidic (between 5.5 and 6.5) and loam (2 parts sand to 2 parts silt to 1 part clay).

Watering – Keep the soil slightly moist without letting it dry out completely. (When watering, note that citrus trees prefer a tepid, lukewarm temperature to freezing cold.)

• Due to the salt content of your tap water, you could inadvertently end up causing marginal leaf scorch or reducing your tree’s ability to absorb water
• Citrus trees prefer ambient to lukewarm water vs. cold or freezing water
• Citrus trees like elevated amounts of moisture in the air, up to 50 percent humidity (typically the upper threshold for a home’s humidity)
• You can simulate this environment by regularly spritzing them with filtered water from a spray bottle

Growing Location – Citrus tree species need sunlight. In fact, 8 to 12 hours of it daily.

• Put your tree in the sunniest window you have, even better if it’s a room with double exposure
• If you have any outdoor space, a few weeks in summer, fresh air will serve your tree well

Note: The same care tips that apply to #1 – Dwarf Meyer Lemons also apply to #2 – Dwarf Key Limes and #3 – Dwarf Orange Trees.

2. Dwarf Key Lime Trees (Citrus aurantifolia)

Dwarf key lime trees are another popular choice for indoor fruit trees (convenient for those who enjoy making key lime pie). This species typically grows from 2 to 4-feet tall, is self-pollinating, and bears fruit within 1 to 3 years.

3. Dwarf Orange Trees (Various genus Citrus)

Several sweet orange varieties, including navel oranges(Citrus sinensis), Valencia oranges, Mandarin oranges (Citrus reticulata), and Blood oranges (Citrus sinensis ‘Moro’), can be found on dwarf rootstocks for indoor cultivation.

• These trees will grow from 6 to 12-feet tall
• They are self-pollinating, and will take anywhere from 2 to 4 years before bearing fruit
• This is significant, as orange tree varieties grown from seed can take up to 15 years before bearing fruit.

Observe these additional care tips for dwarf Meyer lemon, Key lime, and orange trees kept indoors:

• Poor drainage can kill citrus trees. They are not tolerant of standing water in any way
• Overwatering can also kill your citrus trees
• Use terra cotta pots that darken when the soil is moist and deep water your trees when the soil is dry, allowing ample saucer space for all of the excess water to run off
• Light to severe chlorosis, drooping leaves, and falling leaves are indications of a nitrogen deficiency (fertilize to compensate)
• During winter months, mist your citrus trees daily or invest in a dedicated humidifier
• Do not expose citrus trees to cold drafts. Opening a door or window for them on a cold day can stress your citrus trees (and all your other plants)
• Stressed plants are susceptible to diseases and pests

#4. Dwarf Banana Tree (Musa acuminata)

Banana trees are self-pollinating, dispensing with the need for a second tree for pollination.

Fruit – It will take 9 to 15 months before the tree starts flowering, then an additional two to six months before the bananas are ready to be picked.

Soil Requirements – An indoor dwarf banana plant needs rich, humus-like, and well-draining soil. Fertilize it monthly to keep it flourishing.

Watering – They like lots of water due to their enormous leaves, but you’ll want to let the soil dry out thoroughly between waterings. The leaves can be misted to simulate a humid climate.

Growing Location – Banana trees, like most tropical plants, need an abundance of sunlight and humidity.

• Your banana tree should get full sun for 8-12 hours per day
• A southern exposure window is ideal
• Rotate your banana plant often so that all sides are well-exposed to light

Note: Dwarf varieties, such as Dwarf Lady Finger, Super Dwarf Cavendish, or Dwarf Red are especially well suited for containers and can produce fruit much sooner than other varieties, sometimes only 8 to 10 months after planting.

#5. Dwarf Everbearing Mulberry Tree (Morus nigra)

Self-pollinating dwarf Everbearing Mulberry varieties (Morus Alba pendula, Morus serrata, and Morus australis, among others) are the easiest to grow indoors. Spring to summer blooms have these trees producing fruit continually (late spring into summer). 

Fruit – Mulberry tree fruit (looks like a blackberry but slightly smaller) should be picked as soon as it ripens. This tree’s fruit supply ripens over time rather than all at once.

• Starting your tree from seeds may not be the best way to go
• It can take 4 to 10 years for your tree to mature enough to bear fruit
• However, if you take a cutting from a mature mulberry tree, the cutting will be the same age (genetically) as the parent tree
• Using cuttings, you could have berries growing in the first season.

Tip: For cuttings, remove any berries that start to grow the first season. They take energy away from the production of healthy roots. Then, once planted and established, you can harvest ripened berries.

Soil Requirements – Regular, well-drained potting soil will work just fine for this species. Mulberry trees are slow-growing and thrive in spacious pots.

Watering – Mulberry trees should receive the equivalent of 1 inch of rainwater each week for best growth and fruit production. Fruit may drop prematurely if irrigation is insufficient.

Growing Location – The more direct sunlight your mulberry plant gets, the more robust it will grow and the larger berry crop it will produce.

• Mulberries should get around 6 hours of light daily.

Indoor Fruit Trees

While searching for the perfect indoor fruit tree, there are a few things to keep in mind. Consider the following before getting your tree:

Do I have an area (by a window in my home) that gets at least 6 to 8 hrs of sunlight per day?

If yes, this lit location is where you’ll want to grow your fruit trees.

If not, your indoor fruit trees will grow best in the natural light you can give them compensated with a light fixture containing a full-spectrum bulb. These bulbs produce a balance of cool and warm light, replicating the natural solar spectrum.

Do I have a problem with elevated humidity or mold growth in my home?

If yes to either or both, use a dehumidifier to rein in your home’s humidity. Hire a professional mold removal service to clear mold from your home. This will provide healthier air for its occupants and minimize possible mold growth on your indoor plants and trees.

Note: The ideal relative humidity for health and comfort in your home is somewhere between 30-50%. Growing plants and trees indoors will potentially increase your home’s relative humidity.

Are my other indoor plants disease/pest-free?

Before investing in an indoor fruit tree, verify that your existing indoor plants are disease and pest-free. Some common diseases in houseplants include:

• Powdery Mildew
• Root Rot
• Sooty Mold
• Rust

Some common houseplant pests include:

• Thrips
• Aphids
• Spider Mites
• Scale Insects
• Mealybugs
• Fungus Gnats

Tip: Natural pesticides like neem oil or Diatomaceous Earth should be used to eradicate pests and disease from your houseplants before introducing a fruit tree in your home’s ecosystem.

Planting Indoor Fruit Trees Outdoors

When you decide to give your indoor fruit tree the boot, here’s how to plant it outdoors without killing it:

• Acclimate the tree to outside weather by leaving it outside in increasing intervals throughout spring, summer, and mid-fall (bring it in for the winter and plant it outside the following spring).
• Don’t replant it. Leave it in its pot and protect it from severe weather conditions (especially cold weather).

Note: It may not be possible to plant your indoor tree outside. If winter temperatures in your area drop to or below freezing (32°F), your tree may die if left exposed.

Tip: When you have questions about planting your indoor trees outside, or they present seemingly inexplicable signs of poor health, hire an ISA certified arborist to evaluate them and offer professional guidance.

Growing Indoor Fruit Trees

In this article, you discovered growing and care information for five indoor fruit tree species and when you can expect them to bear fruit.

Growing your own fruit trees indoors gives you a cleaner food option when they bear fruit, cleaner ambient air, and a fantastic conversation piece for friends and family.

Being unable to grow your own fruit leaves you limited and subject to consuming foods exposed to harmful chemicals.

Sources:
extension.umn.edu/house-plants/growing-citrus-indoors
edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/mg243
extension.illinois.edu/blogs/rhonda-ferrees-ilriverhort/2018-09-04-go-tropical-ornamental-bananas
extension.iastate.edu/news/yard-and-garden-growing-fruit-trees

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/5-best-indoor-fruit-trees/

Tree stumps are unsightly. They make an otherwise nicely kept yard look like someone forgot to get rid of something that causes numerous problems. An old stump makes a yard look forgotten.

These days, people have high standards when it comes to the exteriors of their homes and their landscaping, especially in suburban areas where people want to “keep up with the Joneses.” Tree stumps in certain neighborhoods signal neglect, and the social norms almost demand that if no one else has a stump in their front yard, you shouldn’t either—it’s really all about what you and your neighbors think about stumps and how they make the street look.

Stumps are generally thought of as ugly nuisances.

First of all, people can accidentally trip and fall, especially in the dark, when walking in a yard and happening upon a tree stump underfoot. Next, try mowing around them all the time—not an easy thing to do! Inevitably, tall weeds are going to grow up around the stump, looking really awkward in your yard. Finally, tree stumps attract critters and bugs who want to live in them. If you’re the type of person who is trying to get rid of ants, wasps, snakes and mice from your house and/or property, get the stump(s) removed.

Big Foot Tree Service regularly removes tree stumps from yards and lots in New Jersey. It wouldn’t make much sense to remove stumps in the winter when the ground is frozen and it’s snowing outside, but summertime is a fine time to call Big Foot Tree Service, have them come take a look at what you’ve got in your yard, provide an estimate for the stump removal, and, ideally, get rid of the stump(s)!

The post Blog first appeared on Big Foot Tree Service. This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com