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When they’re getting a new lawn, people often don’t think hard enough about the type of grass they want to put down. There’s a wide range of grass types out there, varying in price, quality, and availability.

Whether you want something easy to maintain that the kids can play on, or a yard that looks great all year round, it’s important to know what landscaping options are available to you in Georgia. In this blog post, we’ll bring you a list of the top 7 types you can get in Georgia.

Georgia’s Climate

First, it’s essential to get a sense of the unique climate in Georgia to understand why not all types of grass in the US are suitable for landscaping here.

Situated in the South, Georgia is much better suited to what is known as warm-season grasses, that is, varieties that perform best when they are exposed to hotter temperatures with greater sunlight.

That’s why the majority of varieties on this list are warm-season grasses. toddsmariettatreeservices.com advises against buying cool-season grasses for landscaping unless you’re adding them to a mix with warm-season varieties.

1. Bahia Grass

Bahia grass is a resilient, coarse grass that’s especially useful for soil conditions with a poor level of nutrients. This type can survive where other varieties might not.

Bahia grass doesn’t mind being in the shade, so long as it’s exposed to a regular dose of sunlight.  You can leave the grass to grow two or three inches, meaning you won’t have to mow it every week.

2. Bermuda Grass

Bermuda grass is one of the oldest and most popular choices for lawns, thanks mainly to its resilience after heavy footfall. It’s especially ideal for sports fields. It’s fast-growing, though, so make sure you’ve got the time to mow it regularly.

Bermuda grass loves the sun, so it’s not the right choice for you if you have a lawn in a shady environment. And because it’s fast-growing, you’ve got to make sure you keep it in check by mowing regularly.

3. Centipede Grass

Centipede Grass has a moderate texture and is low-growing. It doesn’t even mind being in the shade for extended periods. Plus, this type is easy to manage and won’t grow out of control.

Don’t buy this variety if you’re looking for something that’ll grow fast – Centipede grass takes its time to reach its full potential. It’s also delicate and can’t withstand lots of activity.

4. St Augustine Grass

St Augustine Grass has a dark green color and a somewhat rough texture. Aside from being watered from time to time, this variety does not require lots of maintenance, and its blades can be left to grow. It doesn’t mind being left in the shade, either.

However, this isn’t the type of grass that can withstand lots of activity – it’s likely to get compacted and damaged if it’s trodden on regularly.

5. Zoysia Grass

Although it thrives best in hot, sunny conditions, Zoysia grass can also withstand cooler temperatures without any problems. This variety is soft to touch, and the blades usually grow together into densely-packed clusters.

However, don’t get Zoysia grass if you’re looking for something that’s low maintenance. This variety grows very quickly and is prone to spread into flowerbeds and other parts of your garden if it’s not carefully maintained.

6. Fescue Grass

Fescue Grass is best suited to areas deprived of shade, where other varieties might be unable to thrive. It has a smooth, thin shape which helps it grow quickly.

This variety is known for its resilience. It’s capable of surviving under a range of different temperatures and can withstand periods of drought. However, it does need regular watering in the summer, or it ends up receding and going dormant.

7. Blue Grama Grass

Blue Grama Grass is a bit of a wildcard on this list. It’s not a traditional type of grass used for lawns, and historically it was more likely to be found on unmanaged fields. However, it’s grown in popularity for garden landscaping in recent times due to its naturally unkempt appearance.

This grass type is not suitable to cover an entire lawn with, but it is useful as a decorative plant to surround the edges of a property or replace thin strips of grass in your garden. Best of all, it requires next to no maintenance, so you can let its long silky blades grow out to their full length.

Grasses In Georgia

Remember, the most critical factor in having an impressive, consistent lawn is the amount of time you spend on maintenance. Regardless of the grass type, no yard is going to look good if you neglect it.

That’s why when you choose a grass type for your landscaping, make sure you have a clear idea of how much time you’re able to commit to maintaining it, as some types require a lot more work than others.

Some people take great care to winterize their landscape, because they know that if they don’t, their trees and bushes might not look right– or live– come Springtime.

Winter brings with it a host of challenges for landscaping. Besides the cold temperature, there’s ice, snow, wind, and even salt to deal with. It’s a tough season for any yard to take!

What are some ways you can winterize your landscaping? With evergreens, consider making a barrier of burlap to cover the windward side(s) of your trees and bushes. Leave the top open for light and air penetration. If you have new shrubs or trees in your yard, mulch them with about six inches of wood chips around the base. If possible, water your landscaping before the ground freezes for the season. Should you see any open spaces/cracks in the soil whereas roots are slightly exposed to the elements, fill those areas in with soil.

To protect against snow and ice damage, consider wrapping small trees up in cloth, carpeting or even nylon stockings to give them protection and support for the winter. For bigger trees, consider having a professional from Big Foot Tree Service cable together main branches, if needed, especially if you’re worried about a storm messing with an already less-than-stable tree in your yard.

What about pests? In the winter mice, rodents, rabbits and deer can mess with your landscaping. Deer, in particular, like to rub their antlers on trees, damaging them. So, find ways to put up barriers around trees and bushes that you don’t want animals bothering this winter. For example, you could add a cylinder of ¼-inch mesh hardware cloth around the trunk of a tree. The cylinder, ideally, would go about three inches below the ground line and about two feet above the snow line in order to protect the tree from pests. Plastic tree guards as well as chicken wire fences can also help keep pests away from your landscaping. Some people use store-bought pest repellents to make their landscaping taste or smell undesirable to critters. Regarding deer, a combination of repellent and fencing around landscaping seem to deter them.

The post Blog first appeared on Big Foot Tree Service. This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com

Winter is coming! With winter on the horizon, many homeowners (and home gardeners) are hurriedly raking, trimming branches, and taking what measures they can to prepare their plants for the cold, wet, and other extremes that winter brings. Though it will vary from yard to yard, there are some general guidelines to follow that will help you understand how you can get your yard ready for winter to ensure that your plants stay happy and healthy! If you want a lush, green lawn and a healthy garden come spring, read on for everything you need to do before it gets too cold out there.

Leave Your Leaves and Other Lawn Care Tips

Though raking leaves is one of the most quintessential homeowner activities, we actually recommend that you leave fallen leaves on your yard through the winter. Fallen leaves help insulate your plants’ roots, keeping them warm and protecting against erosion. Think of the leaves like an all-natural blanket that’ll shield your grass from the harshest of winter’s extremes to keep it healthy through the cold and wet. 

Another bonus of crossing raking off your fall to-do list (in addition to time and energy saved) is that you’ll provide food and shelter for wildlife throughout the winter, and you’ll help preserve the delicate ecosystems endemic to your yard and your garden.  

We do recommend that you quickly run your lawnmower over the fallen leaves prior to the first snowfall of the season. In doing so, you’ll create a natural mulch that will provide more efficient nutrients to your plants and your soil. Since it’ll be in smaller pieces, this mulch will also decompose better, so you won’t have an intensive leaf cleanup looming over you.

If you want your grass to be as lush and healthy as possible by first thaw, we suggest you aerate your lawn before temperatures drop too low. You’ll want to start by raking out the thatch, or a layer of material that naturally builds up between grass and soil that helps direct nutrients and water to grass’ roots. Then, use an aeration tool to make it easier for oxygen, moisture, and vital nutrients to get to the roots at which they are most needed.

Though it may seem excessive, if you really want to keep your yard in the best shape possible, you should try to avoid walking on it when the cold hits. Frost, much less snow or ice, can make grass (and other greenery) extremely brittle, and thereby at risk of snapping or breaking. Even a quick stroll across a frozen lawn could leave patches of grass damaged and unable to grow back as strongly as before.

Adjust Your Yard Care Schedule

Many animals hibernate during colder temperatures, but did you know that plants do the same? They slow their growth to save their energy for warmer, sunnier days, meaning that they require less water than usual. In fact, watering your plants when temperatures dip is more likely to kill them! Plants require much less water during the winter months, and they’re actually more likely to get the water they need from snow, ice, or rain. If you know that they’ll still need water during the winter, go ahead and water them—we simply recommend that you evaluate your watering practices to adjust for the colder weather. 

In a similar vein, you should hold off on the fertilizer until the cold wears off. By doing so, you’ll help your plants hibernate and enjoy bigger blooms next season.

Prep Your Plants

If you want to see your perennials grow healthy by early next year, then there’s no time like early fall to start plantning. Plants installed in fall will be rooted and ready to go come spring, but planting too late can spell doom for your plants. Not only the cold, but brutal winter winds can hurt your plants, so tie them up or stake bushier, taller perennials to ensure that an icy gust doesn’t bring about their untimely demise.

Tender bulbs don’t play well with frost, so dig them up and keep them safe indoors until spring. Wait until their leaves turn black to dig them up, then let them dry out inside for a couple of days before packing them and keeping them in a dark, slightly damp location through winter. When spring hits, discard any rotted bulbs and replant the ones that are still in good shape.

Many people think that winter will kill off pests in your garden, but that’s not altogether true. In fact, leaving rotting or bug-laden vegetation in your garden could mean big trouble in the spring. Dead plants breed insects and disease by the bunch, so it’s important to eliminate rotting vegetation as much as possible—ideally, by the root to avoid putting your garden at risk. You can reduce waste by mixing them into your compost or soil for future use.

Expect, and Prepare for, the Unexpected 

The most important part of winterizing your yard is evaluating your yard and planning ahead so you can understand how your yard will change in the winter as well as what you can do to help it. A big part of this is considering unexpected external factors that could come into play, like deer or road salt.

For example, if you have winter vegetables you should cover them with a cold frame or hoop house to protect them. Even if they’re cold-tolerant vegetables like kale or carrots, it’s still important to protect them from frost and roving animals. You could consider deer-proofing your fence to achieve that latter point, since deer often forage in urban gardens during the winter months. They’ll even go after “deer-proof” plants if they’re hungry enough, so if you don’t want to be giving out free lunches, you can use deer spray or deer-proof your fence.

If you live near a road that gets salted, try adding salt-tolerant plants to the perimeter of your yard to help protect your salt-averse vegetation. We recommend specimens like paper birch, black cherry, Eastern red cedar, white oak, pitch pine, and Eastern cottonwood trees, or herbs like evening primrose, marsh-mallow, Canada Mayflower, or seaside goldenrod.

When in Doubt, Trust the Experts 

Each of the steps outlined above is useful for preparing your yard for an easier transition into and out of winter, but be sure to research the appropriate winterization for your specific plants to ensure best results. In recent years, there’s no such thing as predictable weather in Memphis, but we can help you establish or execute a winterization plan for your Mid-south landscape. 

Winterizing your yard is worth the extra effort, and since winter is just around the corner, now is the time to ensure a healthy yard in the spring! For expert advice, tips, and service, contact Red’s Tree Service to start implementing these Mid-South yard winterization tips.

This post first appeared on https://redstreeservice.com

Any homeowner who has gotten a notice from the City of Portland to repair their sidewalks, or else, knows how contentious of a battle it can be for trees and sidewalks to co-exist in the city. Tree roots lifting the concrete slabs can be a major headache. Not only are the quotes from concrete contractors enough to make you sick the thought that due to your tree’s roots you may have to do this again in a few years is just about enough to drive you over the edge. I wish I had some miracle cure-all solution to ease the pain, but unfortunately, when it comes to controlling tree roots and repairing sidewalks that have been raised by tree roots there is only so much that can be done.

What Not To Do When Dealing With Tree Roots Lifting A Sidewalk

• Do Not cut a tree root yourself or let your concrete contractor cut one. Tree roots that are causing damage to a sidewalk and need to be cut must be marked by the city arborist prior to cutting. Cutting them without this approval is a surefire way to cause permanent damage or death to your street trees and to buy yourself a hefty fine from the city. This includes the method of carving an “X” on the top of the tree root (which does not work, by the way). Studies show that despite tree root pruning, sidewalks will, on average, lift again within five years without the use of other root control methods.
• Do Not heavily prune your tree or use tree growth inhibitors. Heavy pruning is expensive and most of the time does not work to keep tree roots from damaging sidewalks. When tree growth inhibitors are used energy that would normally go to the development of the crown of the tree is often redirected to the root system, actually further aggravating the problem.
• Do Not assume you need to replace your concrete. Concrete contractors have other options and if you are going to end up repairing your sidewalk due to root growth again in a few years you may want to hold off if there are other options available to you such as concrete grinding and/or patching. Contact our office about sidewalk repair options that we offer at Urban Forest Professionals.
• Do Not wait! If you get a notice from the city it usually gives you an extended amount of time to correct the problem. They do that for a reason because it takes an extended amount of time to arrange all the permitting and the work to get done.

How To Prevent Tree Roots From Lifting The Concrete Slabs of A Sidewalk

As with many things the solution starts with prevention. The type of tree planted is a big determiner if you are going to have root problems with your sidewalk in the future. As is if the tree is planted correctly. You can review our blogs posts under tree planting for advice on choosing and installing a tree correctly to avoid damaging your sidewalk in the future. Additional options such as root barriers can be installed when trees are young to direct the growth of roots. Sometimes it is better to remove existing trees, start over, and get it right the second time. Of course, you will need the city arborist’s blessing to do this.

How To Repair Sidewalks Damaged By Tree Roots

Nothing will determine your success in dealing with the invasion of growing roots in your sidewalk more than choosing the right concrete contractor when repairing or replacing your concrete. You need a contractor who is willing to use a complete arsenal of tactics to repair the current problem and prevent a re-occurrence. These methods include but are not limited to the use of pea gravel which allows tree root to expand, reinforcing concrete with rebar so that the tree root must lift several slabs at once in order to cause damage to the sidewalk, creating a meandering sidewalk or a sidewalk with cutouts to create more space for roots, and create slightly sloping sidewalks to allow elevation change due to root growth. Homeowners should also explore the option of having the sidewalk repaired or ground down instead of removed and replaced to limit their investment. A knowledgeable concrete contractor will explore all of these options with you including repair.

Contact Urban Forest Professionals When You Need Your Sidewalk Repaired Due To Tree Root Growth

If your tree roots are lifting the concrete slabs of the sidewalk outside of your home and causing damage feel free to contact us for a consultation. We offer concrete repair options and tree root pruning services, and because we are experienced arborists we can determine the best course of action to not only repair the sidewalk but deal with the tree and roots that are causing the issue, hopefully keeping you from having to deal with tree root sidewalk repairs for years to come. Call our office today for your free estimate. 503-912-8092

And See What Our Clients Have To Say About Us:

“This was the nicest experience. They removed a tree from our front yard and had to return for a second overgrown root that was huge, which they did with no question. They left the place looking great. They were professional and pleasant from the beginning to the end, and even sent a thank you card which I thought was very cool. They are five stars all the way.”

Robin W.
Rating: 5/5 ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
And read more of our 188+ reviews on Google.

This post first appeared on https://www.urbanforestprofessionals.com

Making sure that your property is taken care of appropriately is more than just mowing the lawn and watering the flowerbeds. The trees under your care more than likely require regular trimming, and it’s for more important reasons than merely aesthetic ones (although that’s certainly a bonus). Simply put, the proper trimming of your trees is an issue of safety for your home, yourself, and your loved ones.

To start, certain branches need to be singled out and cut back. Branches that are dying or are starting to show signs of weakness should be trimmed. If they die completely and are broken off by a high wind or other in climate weather, the falling branch could hit someone underneath. If the branch is hanging over a utility cable connected to the home, it could pull the line down. The branch could also break through a window, damage a roof, an automobile parked underneath, or any other number of expensive occurrences.

Aside from the safety issues, removing the dead or dying branches can actually make the tree healthier. If the branch has contracted a disease, severing the limb can end up saving the tree itself and stop the spreading problem.

Trees should be trimmed annually, as recommended by the Department of Agriculture. However, it is important to note that trimming some trees can be dangerous. Consult with a professional in case a tree on your property requires trimming for one of the following reasons:

• The tree blocks visibility
• Branches have already broken off or partially dropped onto utility cables
• The tree presents an obvious danger to you, your home, or your property

If you are in Passaic County in New Jersey, please feel free to contact Big Foot Tree Service if you feel that one of your trees meets the criteria above.

The post Blog first appeared on Big Foot Tree Service. This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com

Prevent your apple trees from growing unshapely and severely weakened by an overcrowded crop. Knowing how winter pruning can benefit your apple tree will help you keep it growing healthy for generations.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered the following information about winter pruning for your apple trees, some crucial tips about apple tree pruning, and the outcome this pruning may have on your apple tree.

How To Prune Your Apple Tree

Any time you set out to prune any tree, there are some guidelines to follow that help you protect the tree’s health while encouraging its shapely and vigorous growth.

Sterilize Pruning Equipment – Every time you bring out the loppers, pruning shears, hand saws, and anything else that will make contact with your tree should be sterilized with a 1:10 solution of bleach and water. If you are pruning between multiple trees, your equipment should be cleaned and sterilized between each tree.

Tip: When pruning multiple trees, fill a spray bottle with the bleach and water mixture and sterilize your equipment as needed.

Always Prune with a Plan – Before you start pruning, ask yourself if you need to prune and if you can prune at a more appropriate time.

Tip: When a tree (of any species) has been neglected and not pruned for multiple growing seasons, do not remove more than 1/3 of the tree. Spread the pruning out over several growing seasons to get it fully pruned back and into good shape. If more than 1/3 of the tree must be removed, hire a professional tree service to supervise or conduct this pruning activity.

Pruning Cuts – Using sharp, sanitized tools, you’ll want to make the cleanest cuts possible. Here are how some of these cuts are made:

Removing a full branch will require you to make a calculated “three-cut” removal.
Cut 1, known as the undercut,

it happens approximately 6 inches from the trunk from the bottom up, severing 1/3 of the branch. This cut prevents the bark from stripping if the branch falls before finishing the removal.

Cut 2, is a top, down cut approximately 6 to 8 inches further out from the undercut and removes the bulk of the branch.

Cut 3, is a top, down cut flush with the branch collar, taking care to avoid damaging the branch collar.

When tipping a branch or cutting away a diseased portion but not the entire branch, find an outward-facing bud before making your pruning cut. Cut at a 45-degree angle about ¼ inch away from the bud. New growth will emerge from the bud in the next growing season.

Why Prune in Winter?

There are several reasons one may prefer to prune apple trees in the winter. Here are some of those reasons:

You can see a tree’s defects and poor growth
Cutting/Pruning is safer since most diseases and insects are dormant as well
Remove crossing/rubbing branches which can become vectors for insect infestations and disease, or both
Competing branches are more easily detected and removed

Tip: If your apple tree is lacking the lower branches that are good on an apple tree, you can entice them to grow out. Find a bud, and use a knife to make nicks about a millimeter above and below the bud. Then cut the notch between the nicks completely out, cutting through the bark and the green layer beneath it. This will force the tree to grow a new branch at that location.

Note: Your fruit trees should be pruned every year, during the dormant or winter period. If you don’t begin proper pruning early in the tree’s life, the result will likely be “alternate bearing,” or that one year’s harvest will be bountiful while the following year’s will be small. Pruning is necessary to open up the tree canopy to sunlight and air circulation and promote fruit production and a healthy plant. Follow these tips to pruning your apple tree so you can reap a bountiful harvest consistently.

Pruning or Thinning Fruit

During growing seasons with exceptional weather conditions, apple trees may produce a bumper crop or overabundance of fruit. This may cause fruit “crowding” on the branches and result in smaller-sized apples.

You can grow uncrowded, tasty, and normal-sized apples. It may be necessary to thin out the fruit. Fruit should be spaced about 6 inches apart along the branches; thin out closely grown apples remove the smaller-sized ones in favor of the larger fruits.

Winter Apple Tree Pruning

In this article, you discovered helpful information about pruning your apple trees during the winter season and how these pruning activities can influence your apple tree’s growth and fruit production.

Pruning and caring for your apple trees from an early age will create a consistently repeating annual harvest, help keep your trees healthy, and reduce your tree’s susceptibility to insect infestation.

Without proper winter pruning activities, your apple trees could wind up riddled with insects, diseased, and dying.

Sources:
hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/pruning-training-apple-pear-trees/
cesonoma.ucanr.edu/files/27164.pdf
pss.uvm.edu/ppp/articles/appleprune.html
extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/training-and-pruning-fruit-trees-7-003/

So, you have a stump on your property. Maybe the tree was too close to your driveway, or maybe it was diseased and had become a safety hazard. For whatever reason, your tree is now gone and all you have left is a stump and roots. Like many folks, you want to be rid of this eyesore, but how? You might be thinking you want to remove the stump entirely, but, in reality, stump grinding is likely your best option.

Keep reading for answers to common questions about why and how you should to remove a tree stump.

Why should I care about the stump?

Stumps begin their slow process of decay very shortly after they’re separated from the tree that was once in your yard. This means that a rotting stump will quickly become home to home-damaging pests like termites or carpenter ants.

While you can opt to leave the stump and let it rot, the critters that are involved in that process might spread out to other plants and trees in your yard, or even invade your home. Removing the stump, or grinding it down, is the best way to avoid these pest problems.

You should also consider getting rid of your stump because:

• The stump can get in the way of mowing and other yard care, and just takes up space in your yard
• The stump and its roots make it hard for new trees, plants, and shrubs planted nearby to succeed
• A rotting, decaying stump just looks bad

What’s the difference between grinding and removal, exactly?

Stump removal entails not only extracting the stump from your yard, but also all of the roots attached to it. As a result, you’ll need some seriously heavy-duty equipment—and, since the tree’s roots have probably spread out through much of your yard, you may end up doing some intensive labor and damaging your yard in the process. Generally speaking, full stump removal is only useful if you’re clearing a lot or otherwise don’t mind collateral damage or how the final product looks.

On the other hand, stump grinding is a simpler, more manageable route for homeowners to take, because it doesn’t involve pulling out every single tree root. As you might surmise, stump grinders grind down the stump, essentially shaving down the remainder of the tree until it’s sawdust. So, having your stump ground down will leave your yard with a hole, but one that is much smaller and more contained than with stump removal. 

So, should I grind or remove the stump in my yard?

Stump grinding and stump removal both come with their pros and cons. Choosing which route is best for you mainly depends on what you plan to do with the landscape afterwards, as well as how much time and money you’re willing to invest in the project.

Removal

As mentioned above, the stump removal process is the more intrusive process of the two. It involves heaving up the bulky tree stump with a winch, hydraulic jack, or tractor, and then digging out all the tree’s widespread roots. 

Obviously, removing the tree stump gets it all out of your yard, completely. Even if you grind the stump down several inches below the surface, the roots are still there and may cause issues with planting or with installing yard fixtures down the road. Complete removal solves this problem, and removes the risk of re-sprouting or rotting.

Removal also opens the possibility of planting a new tree in the same spot as the old one. It leaves a hole full of rich, clean soil that’s optimal for tree growth, and without old roots that could hinder your new tree’s growth. If you had to remove a favorite tree due to disease or decay, removal is a great option that allows you to plant a replacement. 

However, stump removal has a few drawbacks; mainly, it takes much more time, money, and effort than grinding a stump. Of course, the duration depends on how large and deep the stump and its roots are, but if you need the work done ASAP, stump removal may not be your best option. 

Stump removal can comparatively be quite costly as well, not only due to the duration of the project, but because stump removal is an astoundingly strenuous and costly process. This is due to the fact that the roots of a tree often represent more than 30% of a tree’s biomass. Even a half-inch root can require hundreds of pounds of force to pull from the soil, and an extensive root system can demand much more. 

If the stump is in a lot you’re clearing or an area where you don’t care about aesthetics, this last point probably won’t apply to you. But if the stump is in your yard or some place where aesthetics matter, cleaning up from a total stump removal involves even more work. Filling in the hole left in the ground and hauling the massive, cumbersome stump away can be a project in and of itself.

Grinding

To grind a stump, our arborists use a groundsaw machine to completely shred the stump down into small woodchips or sawdust that can then be easily removed. The machine can grind the stump to ground level, or it can grind the stump as low as one foot below ground level to create a hole you can then fill in. 

Grinding a stump is much faster and more efficient than removing it. The whole process typically takes less than two hours, and doesn’t leave much work for afterwards. The pile of chips or sawdust left behind are a quick clean-up, and are well worth the effort because you can use them for other purposes around your home and yard. 

Additionally, the hole left behind will be either non-existent or much smaller than with full removal. Filling in this small hole will also be much easier than the labor involved with filling in the giant hole from a fully removed stump and its huge roots. Many people are happy to find themselves relieved of doing or paying for this extra work.

Grinding a stump tends to be cheaper than removing it. This is, of course, because complete removal is a much more labor-intensive and time-consuming process and requires heavy-duty machines with greater power demands. Often, our customers in Memphis would rather go with this more economical option and put their savings towards other landscaping projects. 

Of course, stump grinding does create a bit of a mess in your yard with the sawdust or wood chips that are created during the grinding process. Since complete stump removal can be messy in its own way (a gaping hole and clods of soil strewn about your yard), you’ll need to weigh the costs and benefits of each technique as you decide between the two. 

By leaving the roots in the ground, you open your yard up to the risk of sprouting, which is when the old roots send up small new shoots. If you don’t want new trees in that area, fresh sprouts can be quite a hassle to deal with. The roots can also rot and decay under the earth, which is a natural and important process that nourishes the local ecosystem, but some homeowners and business owners may not want decaying matter and the associated fungi, bugs, and so on in their yard.

Take care of stumps and your yard with Red’s Tree Service

Generally speaking, stump grinding is the better option for residential and commercial stump removers. It’s faster, cheaper, and less damaging to the surrounding yard than complete removal. However, stump removal has its own benefits, including the fact that it gets the whole tree and roots out in one fell swoop, thereby clearing space for new plantings.

If you want a stump ground down or removed from your yard, or advice on which would be best for your purposes, don’t hesitate to reach out to the experts at Red’s Tree Removal! We’ll be happy to assess your situation and give you only the best advice and service. Happy stumping!

This post first appeared on https://redstreeservice.com

The trees in your yard can always benefit from your attention and care. With winter coming, trees can be “winterized” to lessen the chance of cold weather damage.

First, prune (cut off) any dead or broken limbs you see on the tree. Ideally, you should make a 45-degree angle cut in the limb about six inches from the break or dead portion of the limb. If any branches are close to touching the ground, prune them so they won’t touch the ground when rain or snow would weigh them down and/or invite pests onto the tree. If you notice any deadwood or damaged branches, twigs and/or bark, get rid of them.

Next, before the ground freezes, it’s a smart idea to purposely water the tree at least once a week in order to hydrate the roots really well. You can also spread fertilizer around the base if you so choose. If the soil around the tree is compacted or poorly drained, take a rake to it, therefore aerating the soil.

If it’s a small tree, or newly planted tree, consider adding “tree wrapping tape” around the trunk, which will help insulate it against sun scalding.

Spread six inches of wood chip mulch around the base of the tree to help protect the roots from the coming cold weather.

If you have evergreens, you can cover them with burlap, or, better yet, spray them with an “anti-dessicant,” which puts a waxy coat on a tree’s leaves and needles, sealing moisture in.

Should you have any specific questions regarding tree care and maintenance, don’t hesitate to call New Jersey’s Big Foot Tree Service today at 973-885-8000.

The post Blog first appeared on Big Foot Tree Service. This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com

Have you looked out your window and realized that your trees are looking a little… well, shaggy? If so, you’re not alone, as millions of Americans hire professionals every year for tree trimming and pruning. Trees can make the outside of your home beautiful, and having trees in your yard may create opportunities for a shaded lounge area, a place to hang a tire swing and somewhere to build a treehouse, but maintaining them is an important part of protecting and maintaining your property. It may seem easy enough to grab your ladder and some shears and get to work, but there are a lot of concerns to consider before you begin your tree-trimming career! These details will help you make an informed decision about properly trimming your trees, so read on to learn everything you need to know about tree trimming. 

Why should I care about trimming my trees?

Whether your home is surrounded by hundred-year-old trees or you have just a few smaller trees that you need to service, you may be wondering about the benefits of regular tree trimming. Trees need to be trimmed or pruned regularly, and sometimes branches must be entirely cut off to help ensure the health of the tree and your family’s safety. 

There are many reasons tree trimming can be a vital part of yard maintenance. According to the US Department of Agriculture, trees should be pruned first for safety, next for health, and finally for aesthetics. Let’s look at each of these benefits:

Safety

The safety of your family and the security of your property and that of your neighbors is a key reason why people choose to trim their trees. If you notice that a tree has a decayed or dying limb, there is always a possibility that the limb could fall during a storm and cause damage to your home or property—or that of your neighbors. 

A quick trim may cost a bit, but it will be much less than the liability that you would face if a tree limb fell into your neighbor’s home! 

Tree (and yard) health

Cutting dead or diseased branches may help benefit the overall health of the tree. In addition, pruning may also encourage your trees to develop stronger core structures to help withstand the elements.

Pruning or trimming a tree also allows you to reduce the possibility that dead or decayed material in the branches could be shifted to other trees that are healthy. Another reason many people trim the trees on their property is to allow more sunlight to filter through to the ground. This helps to reduce the overall possibility of mold and mildew by drying up the ground and allowing the plants underneath the tree to receive the sunlight and nutrients that they need to grow successfully.

Aesthetics

Trimming a tree may help accentuate its physical appearance and improve flower or fruit production. You may even find that cutting back some extra tree growth will add to your home’s curb appeal and really showcase your home and yard. 

How often should I trim my trees?

Generally, you should prune or trim trees about once a year during their dormant season, which can vary depending on the species of your tree. However, circumstances such as these may prompt an immediate trimming:

• The tree’s growth obstructs visibility for pedestrians or vehicles, especially at intersections.
• The tree’s limbs interfere with power lines. Make sure to contact your local utility company to handle the job, as it’s dangerous to even get close to power lines.
• The tree’s growth may threaten your home or property. If you feel a tree needs to be pruned because it may cause damage to your home, or causes safety concerns, it’s important to contact an arborist to help with the trimming.

How can I safely trim my trees?

Your first priority when trimming, pruning, or cutting a tree should be personal safety. The best way to help ensure safety is to hire a qualified arborist service like Red’s Tree Service to clip back your trees. Trimming may often require a ladder and sometimes puts the trimmer in close proximity to power lines, and the safest course of action is to leave tree-trimming to the professionals.

However, if you do decide to trim your own trees, here are our safety recommendations to help you determine if it’s safe or not to cut the branches:

• Branches smaller than 2 inches (or 5 centimeters) in diameter: Proceed.
• Branches between 2 and 4 inches (or 5 and 10 centimeters) in diameter: Think it over.
• Branches larger than 4 inches (or 10 centimeters): Contact an arborist.

In circumstances of extreme weather, like rain, snow, or even wind, do not trim any tree, as it can place excess stress on the tree and poses an extreme safety hazard to you and your property.

If you do decide to try trimming your trees yourself, here is a 3-step program you can follow:

1. Make the very first cut about 1-2 feet from the trunk of the tree. This cut starts underneath the limb and goes into it, but only about a third of the way. This is a critical step in the process.
2. Make the second cut just outside of the first cut, about another foot or two. This cut will be all the way through the branch. The branch is highly likely to break away as you saw through the limb, which is ok. Since you have made the first cut on the underside and closer in from the previous step, the bark will not continue to tear down into the tree trunk.

3. The final cut is right at the branch collar where the branch meets the tree’s trunk. You will be looking for a flared area here. Make the final cut so that the flair is still noticeable afterward. 

If cut properly, this “flair” will heal over, eventually filling in with new bark and scar tissue. You’ll know the tree is healing correctly when you see a “doughnut” forming where you made the cut. And that is all there is to it!

Once again, if you have any doubt in your ability to properly assess the situation and conduct the pruning, call Red’s Tree Service. Our team has experience and expertise, and can complete the job in a safe and fast manner.

Keep your trees trim and happy with Red’s Tree Service!

The friendly, expert team at Red’s Tree Service understands exactly what techniques to employ and what branches to remove so that you are left with the healthiest, best-looking tree possible.

We also understand tree trimming can be a nerve-racking and intimidating experience, especially if you have a tall tree that needs trimming. Don’t risk getting hurt. Reach out to us today to request an estimate or schedule service.

This post first appeared on https://redstreeservice.com

Prevent your shrubs and trees from becoming diseased and dying due to untimely fall pruning. Knowing when to prune your plants, shrubs, and trees in the fall will help you keep them thriving.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered the following information about the heightened risks of pruning activities performed during fall months.

The Risk of Early Fall Pruning

It is not advised to conduct ANY pruning activities in early fall. All pruning activities encourage new plant growth. When these activities occur in early fall (when the tree or plant is starting to go dormant), any new growth won’t have enough time to harden before the first frost and freezing temperatures set in. This tender new growth, damaged by freezing weather, can become a vector for infestations and disease.

Why Fall Pruning Is Discouraged

The dangers of early fall pruning include:

Disease – As the seasons change from summer to fall, rainfall is typically increased, creating a moist or wet environment that promotes the growth and spreading of disease-causing bacteria and fungi.

Infestation – Like disease infections, insect infestations are supported by a moist or wet environment. These conditions delay a tree or plant’s ability to heal pruning wounds.

Off-Season Growth – As mentioned, pruning encourages growth. Pruning a tree or plant before dormancy can result in tender growth that becomes a vector for disease and infestation (when damaged by freezing weather).

Tip: Put your pruning shears away for another couple of months and allow your trees and plants to go completely dormant. Once dormancy has settled in (after all the leaves have dropped), you can safely prune trees and shrubs.

Note: If you must perform fall pruning, wait for your tree, shrub, or plant to go completely dormant. This “fall” window of opportunity is generally between the Thanksgiving and New Year holidays. However, if you can wait, late winter (late February) pruning is far less risky.

Fall Pruning Exceptions

Some situations arise, demanding immediate pruning activities. While most of these apply to trees, large or overgrown shrubs may require similar attention. Be on the lookout for the following:

Overhanging or Dangerous Growth – When trees or large shrubs grow over a structure or lean in that direction, they can cause great concern. This is true, especially in regions prone to severe weather.

The solution to this predicament is to prune back the limbs or branches causing the concern or to remove the tree or shrub, eliminating the threat altogether.

Dead Limbs or Branches – For all plant life, dead wood represents an easy entryway for disease and insect infestation. In fact, dead limbs or branches may result from a disease or infestation and should be investigated.

This dead wood should be removed upon discovery, regardless of the season or circumstance.

Storm Damage – Severe weather events seemingly occurring more frequently and consequently causing sometimes catastrophic damages to trees, shrubs, and plants.

When you detect storm damage in your trees, shrubs, and plants, you should take immediate action to remove the damaged wood and prune back limbs that have snapped or broken off (eliminating rough or uneven surfaces). Handling storm-damaged trees is a responsibility that should not be taken lightly. Minor damages can be resolved, but for more extensive damages, hire a professional tree service to help you sort out what can be salvaged and what is a threat and needs removing.

Plants and Shrubs That Should Be Pruned in the Fall

While the overall intent of this publication is to discourage fall/autumn pruning, the following species of plants and shrubs benefit from fall pruning:

• Bearded Iris (Iris germanica)
• Bee Balm (Monarda)
• Bellflowers (Campanula)
• Catmint (Nepeta)
• Coneflowers (Rudbeckia)
• Columbine (Aquilegia)
• Daylily (Hemerocallis)
• Phlox (Phlox paniculata)
• Salvia (Salvia spp.)

Counter to the standard, these above plant species do require fall pruning. However, to be more informed, read when should I prune trees and discover best practices of tree pruning?

Generally speaking, plants hardy in USDA hardiness zones 4 through 9 will need fall pruning.

No shrub species require fall pruning:

Shrub pruning should be treated the same as tree pruning. Early fall pruning can severely damage your shrubs and should be avoided until the shrub has gone dormant for the season.

Tip: You can and should prune shrubs any time it becomes necessary (broken branches, dead or diseased wood, or removing growth that is obstructing a sidewalk or road).

Alternatives to Fall Pruning

Fortunately, there is no shortage of activities you can perform in place of pruning. Your landscape will benefit from the following:

Rake Leaves and Debris – Most fungi and bacteria overwinter (lie in wait) in fallen leaves and debris. Rake this material up regularly and dispose of it from your property. Avoid composting these leaves and material as you may be cultivating harmful plant/tree pathogens.

Mulch – Offer a protective layer of mulch to trees, shrubs, and gardens for the winter months. A new or refreshed three to four-inch layer of organic mulch will help regulate soil moisture and temperature.

Amend Your Soil – The fall season is also a good time to amend your landscape and garden soil with compost or fertilizer. A simple soil test can reveal which nutrients your soil is lacking.

Mark Your Trees – Instead of pruning, take a can of red or pink spray paint and mark the branches you’d like to remove at a more appropriate time. Branches to be marked may include:

• Branches obstructing free-flowing light and air through the canopy
• Crossover branches that rub and cause open wounds to form in the canopy (remove the smaller of the two)
• Low hanging branches that may interfere with foot traffic
• Branches or limbs growing vertically (water sprouts)

Tip: The more prep work you can get accomplished in the fall, the less work you’ll need to do, and the better your landscape’s conditions will be in the spring.

Pruning in the Fall

In this article, you discovered what to prune in the fall and when your trees, shrubs, and plants respond best to pruning activities.

Knowing when and what to prune in the fall season will help you maintain the health and vigor of your plants, shrubs, and trees.

Haphazardly pruning in fall months can lead to diseased or infested plants, shrubs, and trees, sometimes resulting in catastrophic damages when they die or are destroyed in severe weather events.

Sources:
hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/2015/03-13/pruning.html
extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=B961&title=Pruning%20Ornamental%20Plants%20in%20the%20Landscape
johnson.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/agent-articles/trees-shrubs/fall-pruning.html
extension.usu.edu/archive/is-it-too-late-or-too-soon-to-prune
extension.umn.edu/news/prune-or-not-prune-0