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Avoid your trees falling or dying from a disease that can often be treated. Knowing how to identify and treat tree diseases will prevent avoidable death, and help you encourage healthy, robust tree growth.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered information on identification and treatment of anthracnose, canker diseases, and Dutch elm disease, all of which attack, weaken, and kill trees.

3 Tree Diseases

The following three tree diseases can be tricky to treat. However, once you identify a disease and know how it affects your tree, you can take immediate action to treat it. The following are three common diseases found on trees in the US and around the world:

Anthracnose Tree Disease

Anthracnose is a common fungal disease infecting shade trees. The disease causes the following symptoms:

• Bud death
• Twig death
• Leaf cupping/curling
• Dead, irregular spots on leaves
• Dead tissue along leaf veins
• Dead blotches between leaf veins
• Unseasonal or premature leaf-drop

Treat an anthracnose disease infection by:

Avoiding Spraying Tree Foliage – Anthracnose fungi depend on splashing water and wind to carry them from one host to another. If you try to wash the disease off the foliage, you contribute to the fungi’s perpetuation.

Collecting and destroying fallen leaves – Dead leaves (when left on the ground) provide an optimal location for fungi to lie dormant.

Pruning – The fungi and acervuli (fruiting structures) found in blighted twigs should be pruned back and destroyed. Crown thinning allows more air and light to reach inner branches and foliage; this helps fight against the fungi.

Note: In extreme cases of infection, excessive pruning may be required. When this is the case, contact a professional tree service to evaluate the situation.

Tip: Destroy pruned portions of the tree and its leaves in a fire pit or have a bonfire.

Tree Canker Diseases

Cankers are localized areas of bark and cambium necrosis (dead spots commonly exhibiting an open wound) on stems, twigs, branches, and/or the trunk caused by bacteria or fungi. Canker disease causes trees to display the following symptoms:

• Leaf chlorosis
• Reduced twig and smaller leaf growth
• Dead leaves remain attached to the tree
• Dead branches or limbs (dieback)
• Water sprouts growing from the trunk, large limbs, or roots
• White, decayed sapwood in the tree’s cankered areas
• Outer bark sloughing off of branches and/or trunk

Treat cankers on limbs and branches as follows:

• Carefully prune affected limbs and branches from the tree.
• Wood infected by any bacteria or fungi should be handled cautiously.
• Do not run these limbs and branches through a wood chipper.
• This wood can and should be burned.

Treat cankers on tree trunks as follows:

When cankers reach the tree trunk, there is little to nothing you can do to prevent the tree’s eventual decline and death. However, if your tree was healthy and robust when the infection occurred, it is possible that the tree compartmentalized (isolated) the infected wood on its own.

Note: Hire a professional tree service to carefully evaluate and determine a course of action for your tree.

Dutch Elm Disease

Dutch elm disease (DED), caused by a fungal pathogen (Ophiostoma novo-ulmi or Ophiostoma ulmi), is responsible for the decimation of native American elm species. This disease is most often vectored by European (Scolytus multistriatus) and North American (Hylurgopinus rufipes), and banded elm (S. schevyrewi) elm bark beetles. However, the disease may pass from tree to tree via root grafts with infected trees. Symptoms typically include:

• Leaves on one or more branches in the outer crown turn yellow, wilt, and eventually turn brown.
• Fallen leaves are noticeable in spring or summer.
• Symptoms often appear in late spring and/or early summer but may occur at any time during the tree’s growing season.
• Leaf yellowing and wilting continues down infected branches toward the tree trunk.
• How fast the signs spread down the tree depends on the tree species’ health and susceptibility. Infected trees may die in a single growing season or over multiple years.
• Brown streaking can be seen on the sapwood of wilted branches when the bark is stripped away.
• Confirm a DED infection by sending a sample of branches with leaves displaying symptoms to your University’s local extension for analysis.

Dutch elm disease can be treated when caught in very early stages by:

• Reducing the number of beetle breeding sites by promptly removing dead or dying trees.
• Immediately pruning away DED infected branches.
• Immediately removing trees with many DED infected branches.
• Burying, debarking, burning, or chipping wood from DED infected elm trees.
• Severing root grafts between neighboring elms before the infected tree is removed to prevent infection.

Tip: When considering injectable fungicides to prevent DED, hire a certified arborist to apply the injections.

Note: This disease affects native American elm species, like American (Ulmus americana), slippery (red) (Ulmus rubra), rock (Ulmus thomasii), September (Ulmus serotina), and cedar (Ulmus crassifolia) elms.

Treating Tree Diseases

In this article, you discovered essential information on how to identify and treat anthracnose, canker diseases, and Dutch elm disease before they weaken and kill your trees.

Taking swift action to help your tree and prevent its death will help you save thousands in potential physical and property damages.

Your failure to recognize a tree disease in its beginning phases can result in the swift death of your tree and infection of other surrounding trees.

Sources:
uaex.edu/environment-nature/forestry/health/disease-problems.aspx
ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/plpath-tree-04
extension.umn.edu/plant-diseases/anthracnose-trees-and-shrubs
s3.wp.wsu.edu/uploads/sites/687/2015/06/MG-Canker-and-Wilt-Diseases-3.27.15-01.pdf

Prevent losing the opportunity to repurpose your tree stump. Once you have your dying or dead tree removed, leave the stump and transform it into something special.

72tree.com gathered information on what you can do with a tree stump after having the tree removed.

Tree Stump Repurposing and Decor Ideas

When it’s time to cut down your tree, you’ll want to think ahead and determine what to do with the stump. You could have it ground down or removed by the tree service, or you could preserve and repurpose it in your yard. Consider the following:

• How tall of a stump do you want to keep?
• If you are planning to landscape or hardscape, will the stump interfere with or complement your project?

Here are ten ways to creatively repurpose your tree stump:

1 – Plant a Tree in Your Tree Stump

This may seem odd, but when your stump begins to decay in the center, you can plant a sapling or robust outdoors plant right in the stump. Simply cover the roots with nutrient-rich compost and silty soil, water two to three times per week.

This would most likely work best in a stump cut within one to two-feet of the ground. Taller stumps would work for climbing or crawling plants.

2 – Tree Stump Plant Pedestal

Showcase your favorite potted plants by placing them atop the stump. You can also use your stump as a location for your indoor plants to get some sun.

The stump height for this use would depend on your preference. The cut across the stump should be as level as possible for maximum stability.

3 – Tree Stump Statue Pedestal

One way to give your garden statue a more organic look is to use your tree stump as its pedestal. You can complement your statue with surrounding plants or climbing vines.

The stump height for this idea will depend on the statue’s weight and your ability to anchor it to the stump. The statue’s stability will also depend on a level cut across the stump.

4 – Tree Stump Backyard Art

Your tree stump can be used to display letters, trinkets, figurines, or any outdoor collectibles. You could even place some lawn chairs around the stump and serve up some tea.

The stump height for this use will depend on what you intend to display and how within reach you want it.

5 – Tree Stump Carving Art

If you’re into carving, a tree stump will offer you a “blank canvas” and a chance to show off your creative skills.

Stump height for this project depends on what you plan to carve.

6 – Tree Stump Large Shapes

In addition to carving artwork into a tree stump, you can use the whole stump to carve or cut out large objects like a giant Christmas ornament or an oversized mushroom.

Stump height for this project depends on what you plan to create.

7 – Tree Stump Chair

Depending on the stump’s location and diameter, you might benefit from transforming it into a chair.

The stump height for this idea depends on how tall you want the back of the chair to be.

8 – Tree Stump Chopping Block

Both useful and somewhat ironic, you could turn your tree stump into a chopping block, giving you a sturdy surface to split logs for a wood-burning stove or fireplace.

The ideal height for a tree stump used as a chopping block is between twelve and sixteen inches.

9 – Tall Tree Stump Caricatures

Create striking imagery when you have a life-size or larger-than-life caricature carved into your stump, overlooking your yard. If you ever move, cut the stump at ground-level and take your masterpiece with you.

Stump height for this project depends on how tall you want the caricature.

10 – Let Your Stump Decay

If you enjoy seeing the decay process and the different flora and fauna it attracts, your tree stump will be the gift that keeps on giving. You can start or accelerate the decay process by drilling wide holes deep in the stump, filling them with water, and a high-nutrient-content fertilizer.

Stump height for this is at your discretion.

Tree Stump Removal

In some cases, keeping your tree stump after tree removal may not be in your best interest. Take these scenarios, for example:

• If the tree’s roots were buckling your driveway, you may want the stump removed to guarantee root death.
• If your tree is being removed due to severe vascular diseases like oak wilt or anthracnose, keeping the stump may help spread and perpetuate the disease in nearby trees.
• If your tree suffered catastrophic damages from a boring insect infestation, stump removal may be required to prevent subsequent tree infestations.

If you decide to manually remove your tree stump, read How To Remove a Tree Stump Without a Grinder.

Giving a Tree Stump New Life

In this article, you discovered multiple ways to keep and repurpose a tree stump after the tree has been removed.

By keeping your tree stump after tree removal, you gain an opportunity to express your artistic and design-savvy by creating a useful structure or attractive showpiece.

Removing the stump after felling your tree strips you of the opportunity to create something unique with years of durability.

Sources:
ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=11441
munews.mansfield.edu/?p=757
s3.wp.wsu.edu/uploads/sites/2073/2014/03/Landscaping-with-Dead-Trees.pdf

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/what-to-do-with-a-tree-stump/

 

Winter in New Jersey tends to bring nasty storms which can literally shut down some areas for several days in a row. With that in mind, how should a person prepare for a nasty winter storm?

First of all, do you have an emergency kit in your home and/or vehicle? Things like snow shovels, blankets and wood for a fireplace or wood-burning stove come in handy when the temperatures go below freezing. In anticipation of a storm approaching, make sure you have a flashlight, battery powered radio, water, snack food, matches, and necessary medications in case the power goes out and/or you’re stuck somewhere for a long time.

Winterizing Your Home

You can winterize your home by insulating walls and attics. During a storm, let your faucets trickle to help prevent pipes from freezing. In case a pipe bursts, know where and how to shut off water valves. Keep in mind where a fire extinguisher is kept, just in case you need it. If you know of a tree close to your home that looks like it might tip over in harsh winds, don’t stay in the rooms where it could come crashing down.

While travel can be harsh during a storm, sometimes you’ll find yourself driving in the worst wintry conditions ever. Have you checked your vehicle’s antifreeze level lately? Are your brakes, battery, lights and heater in good working order? It’s better to get a vehicle repaired before a big storm than to be stuck somewhere during a storm having not taken care of problems when the weather was nice outside, you know?

Keep Safe Inside Your Home

Finally, if there’s a “Winter Weather Advisory,” that means there could be weather problems causing people inconveniences and you should use caution on area roads and such. A “Winter Storm Watch/Warning” is worse– it means heavy snow and/or ice could/will occur and you might lose power. If and when you hear of a “Blizzard Warning,” that’s your cue to stay where you are rather than risk frostbite, getting stuck in your vehicle in a white-out, and/or having to deal with considerable amounts of blowing snow for three hours or more.

After the Storm Cleanup

It’s important to know that a severe winter storm can bring some damages to your property, especially to your trees. If you have damages to your trees after a storm, Big Foot Tree Service can help you out. We can come and cleanup your yard of any storm debris, cut down dead trees, and remove dead branches. Contact Big Foot Tree Service at 973-885-8000 today or visit us online for more information!

 

The post How to Prepare for a Nasty Winter Storm first appeared on Big Foot Tree Service.

This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com

You may not think it to look at them, but trees actually have quite a bit in common with us! They need food and nutrients, which they receive in the form of sunlight, water, carbon dioxide, and the soil around them. Just like humans, this nourishment allows them to grow strong and healthy. Unfortunately, trees are like us in another way—they too can experience illness and death. 

The trouble is, it’s much more difficult to spot when a tree is sick or dying. You or I may run a fever, cough, or sneeze when we’re under the weather, but unless you’re an expert on trees, it can be hard to tell if they’re in poor health. There are still symptoms you can learn to spot, however! When you’re armed with this knowledge, you’ll be better able to gauge how your trees are feeling. This will help you know when it’s time to call in the pros with Red’s Tree Service.

How to examine your trees

You don’t need to be a doctor to examine your trees! You can get a good idea of how healthy they are by periodically checking the trunks, branches, foliage, and above-ground roots. You’ll be looking for anything that doesn’t seem right, as this could be a sign of deterioration. We’ll outline what to look for in the most important areas below. 

Trunk and bark

The bark is a tree’s first line of defense, just like our skin is. If it shows any signs of damage, the tree could be decaying below the surface. Vertical cracks can be one indication of poor health. A lack of new bark is another. As trees age, the outer layer of their bark falls off and is replaced with a fresh layer. If a tree’s health is declining, however, it won’t be able to replace the stripped layer. Fungal growth is one more thing to look for when inspecting your trees. Large clusters of growth can be a sign that the tree is suffering from internal rot. 

In general, trees showing signs of decay or instability should be removed as soon as possible to prevent them from falling and possibly causing damage. As experienced arborists, we can help you decide whether or not a tree should be removed. We also have the professional skills and equipment to safely and efficiently remove trees from your property if needed. 

Roots

Discerning the health of a tree from the roots can be difficult since most of them are hidden underground. The good news is, roots are the least vulnerable part of the tree. Under the surface, they’re protected from winds, wandering animals, and other dangers the more visible parts of the tree are subject to. 

They can still experience illness, though! Nearby construction, soil compaction, and other stressors can lead to damage you may not be aware of. One visible sign of this is small branches sprouting from the base of the tree. Roots that have been broken off, injured, or damaged are another.  

If you’re not sure what you should be looking for, our team is happy to help! A tree health and risk assessment by Red’s Tree Service can help you spot any weaknesses in the roots before they become major problems, saving you time and money. 

Branches and twigs

Branches and twigs can give you some insight into how well or how poorly a tree is doing! A healthy tree will boast plenty of new leaves or buds, have a normal leaf size, and show signs of twig growth, among others. 

In fact, you can check a tree’s condition by removing a small twig from a branch, breaking it open, and checking the color inside. If the color is bright green, chances are good that everything’s fine. A duller green could be a sign of aging. Black or brown could signify serious damage or even death. 

What to do if a tree is showing signs of illness

If you believe your tree is deteriorating, the first thing you should do is identify what the underlying problem is. There are several possible reasons for a tree to be in poor health. It may be receiving too much or too little water. It could be suffering due to soil compaction or recent excavations nearby. It may require pruning or fertilizer. It can be hard to know where to start to find the source of sickness!

A professional will have the training and knowledge to identify and diagnose the root of the problem. Here at Red’s Tree Service, we have many years of experience in multiple aspects of the tree business, allowing us to offer you a wide variety of services. It will be much easier to find a solution for your sick tree with an expert arborist on your side!

Keep your trees healthy and your property safe with Red’s Tree Service 

Trees come with significant benefits to our properties and our lives, but when they become ill or die, they can be a real liability. While it’s smart to brush up on what to look for when it comes to the health of your trees, a tree health and risk assessment by Red’s Tree Service can help you spot any weaknesses before they become major problems! This can save you a great deal of time and money in the long run. 

It may save your tree, too! Understanding and addressing the risks associated with your trees is important, and a team of professional arborists can help you do just that. If you’re looking to keep your trees in good shape, get in touch today and let our team here at Red’s Tree Service ensure they live a long and healthy life. 

This post first appeared on https://redstreeservice.com

Prevent your nutrient-depleted soil from weakening and killing your trees, shrubs, and plants. Knowing how to keep your soil fertile will drive robust growth in your yard and garden.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered information on how to Identify, enrich, and maintain your soil.

Types of Soil

Your soil is much more than dirt that you dig a hole in to plant something. Before attempting to improve or enrich your soil, identify what type it is:

Sandy Soil – This type of soil is usually formed as rocks like granite, limestone, and/or quartz fragment and breakdown. Sandy soils are poor soil types for growing plants because it has little to no nutrients and poor water holding capacity, which makes it hard for plant roots to absorb water and establish themselves.

Silt Soil – Composed of broken-down rock and mineral particles, smaller than sand but larger than clay. This soil retains water better than sandy soil and is the more fertile of the soil types. However, silt soil is easily stripped away by moving water currents, adding to potential erosion problems.

Clay Soil – This soil has the smallest and most tightly packed particles, leaving little to no airspace. Smooth when dry and sticky when wet, clay soil is the densest soil and does not drain well or provide sufficient space for roots to thrive.

Loamy Soil – Often referred to as agricultural soil, loamy soil is a combination of sand, silt, and clay soils. This soil presents a better ability to retain moisture and nutrients while having higher pH and calcium levels.

Watch this video for three ways to easily test your soil and determine its type.

Soil Enrichment

Grow more healthy, vigorous, and productive plants and trees by enriching your soil. Every soil type can be improved. Here’s how:

To Improve Sandy Soil – Sandy soils contain little to no clay or organic matter, they don’t have structure, and particles won’t stick together, even when they’re wet.

• Work or till in 4 to 5 inches of organic material like compost or well-rotted manure
• Grow cover crops in the offseason
• Mulch around your plants, shrubs, and trees with organic material like hay, straw, bark, leaves, or wood chips. Mulch regulates soil temperature and retains moisture.
• Each year, add a minimum of 2 more inches of organic material to the soil

Tip: Cover crops may include buckwheat and/or phacelia in summer and vetch, daikon, and/or clovers in fall.

Read Proper Mulching Techniques Around Trees for more information about applying mulch properly.

To Improve Clay Soil – While most clay soils are rich in minerals, they lack a porous quality for roots to push their way through. These soils are also easily compacted by foot traffic and garden equipment. Here’s how to reduce compaction and enrich clay soils:

• Work or till in 3 to 4 inches of organic material like compost or well-rotted manure
• Grow cover crops in the offseason
• Mulch around your plants, shrubs, and trees with organic material
• Each year, add a minimum of 1 more inch of organic material to the soil

Note: The addition of organic material to clay soils provides better results when applied in the fall.

To Improve Silty Soil – While more fertile than sand or clay soil, silty soils are generally more dense, poorly-drained, and prone to the effects of erosion. Here’s how to help silty soils:

• Add 1 inch of organic material like compost or well-rotted manure
• Grow cover crops in the off season
• Eliminate foot traffic, resting garden equipment, and till only when necessary to avoid soil compaction
• Each year, add a minimum of 1 more inch of organic material to the soil

Note: The addition of sand and clay to silty soil can have disastrous results when done improperly. You would be better served by allowing the organic material to slowly modify the soil.

How To Improve Soil

Every soil has a unique texture and physical characteristics. However, all soil types can suffer when neglected and abused or be significantly improved with the right management techniques. The following serve to evaluate and improve all soil types:

Test Your Soil – You can find home soil test kits ranging from $15 (basic kit) to $900 (professional kit). Such tests measure the pH (acidity/alkalinity) and nutrient content of your soil.

You can send your soil samples to a North American Proficiency Testing Program (NAPT) participating laboratory by visiting naptprogram.org/about/participants and searching by laboratory name or state.

Also, most state universities provide soil testing services through their Cooperative Extension Service. Likely, they will provide soil testing and fertilizer/amendment recommendations based on test results.

Tip: Contact your state university or search for their extension for pricing and available services.

Watch this video to see how soil is tested in a laboratory.

Increase Soil Biodiversity – Organisms like nematodes, amoeba, fungi, bacteria, and earthworms are essential for the healthy growth of your plants, shrubs, and trees. Soil management practices that increase a soil’s organic matter and its biodiversity include:

• Amending organic material into the soil regularly
• Moisture control (watering)
• Careful selection and application of fertilizers
• Mulch barren soil and around shrubs and trees, including gardens
• Minimizing or eliminating soil tillage
• Retaining and improving plant cover and using cover crops to shield the soil

Note: If adding manure to enrich your soil, use composted or aged manure. Fresh manure can “burn” growing plants and grasses.

Tip: Add earthworms to your compost pile. This will significantly enrich your compost, and when adding that compost to your soil, the worms go with it.

Watch this video from the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations about soil biodiversity.

Control Soil pH Levels – Soil pH preferences vary between grass, plant, and tree species but most prefer soil pH between 5.8 and 7.2. You can safely adjust your soil’s pH to accommodate your grass, plant, or tree’s requirements by:

• Lowering soil pH or making it more acidic, amending aluminum sulfate, sphagnum peat, elemental sulfur, iron sulfate, acidifying nitrogen, and/or organic mulches
• Raising soil pH or making it more alkaline, incorporating limestone, agricultural lime, wood ash, and/or hydrated lime

Tip: Before planting anything, be knowledgeable of your pant’s preferred soil pH and make necessary adjustments to the soil. Frequent soil tests will help you maintain optimal soil conditions for what you are growing.

Watch this video to see how to adjust soil pH.

Enriching Your Soil

In this article, you discovered how to identify your soil type and composition, How to enrich your soil, and how to maintain its health.

Enriching your soil will help you grow healthier grasses, plants, shrubs, and trees, making them less susceptible to disease and insect infestations.

Ignoring your soil’s composition and biodiversity will lead to your landscape’s poor performance, plant death, and difficulty growing anything healthy.

Sources:
environment.nsw.gov.au/topics/land-and-soil/soil-degradation/soil-biodiversity
hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/1994/4-6-1994/ph.html
whatcom.wsu.edu/ag/compost/fundamentals/benefits_benefits.htm
ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=28605

Prevent diseases on your tree’s bark from killing it. Knowing what type of disease is growing on or in your tree will help you take appropriate measures to treat it.

72tree.com gathered information on diseases that affect or appear on tree bark, how severe they are, and what actions are needed to prevent the disease from spreading.

Tree Bark Diseases

Tree bark completely covers a tree’s trunk, branches, stems, and twigs. It could be seen as a protective skin that repels insect infestations, shields against pathogens, and resists physical damage. Frequently, however, a stressed tree will likely develop one of the following:

Cankers on Trees

Cankers are dead areas of bark on a tree’s trunk or branch. Multiple factors can cause bark death, like damage caused by an impact, bacteria, or fungi. Pathogens such as bacteria or fungi are usually unable to penetrate healthy bark, but if the tree is stressed or the bark is damaged, infection is more likely. Consider the following types of cankers:

Wound Canker – These cankers, sometimes referred to as annual cankers, are most common at or near the base of a tree. They are typically caused by a lawnmower, vehicle, and/or maintenance equipment strikes or repeated abrasion.

Cankers resulting from impact wounds are severe threats that need to be prevented. Allowing conditions for these wounds to persist can result in the girdling and death of the tree.

Prevention: Create a safety zone using organic mulch or gravel around the tree.

Tip: Existing wounds should be carefully trimmed (without widening or deepening the wound), so the tree can properly seal the wound. Point out these wounds/repairs to your tree professional.

Perennial Canker or Cytospora Canker (Target-Shaped) – This canker is one of the more common diseases of shade and fruit trees. It is caused by one of several Cytospora fungi (Nectria, Strumella, Eutypella, etc.) and attacks multiple hosts, including:

• Apple (Malus domestica)
• Apricot (Prunus armeniaca)
• Ash (Fraxinus)
• Aspen (Populus tremuloides)
• Birch (Betula)
• Beeches (Fagus)
• Cherry (Prunus avium)
• Elm (Ulmus)
• Hickories (Carya)
• Maples (Acer)
• Peach (Prunus persica)
• Poplars (Populus)
• Walnuts (Juglans)
• Willow (Salix)

Cytospora infections can occur via bark wounds, at junctions of dead and live branches, or at poorly cut pruning wounds. The fungi slowly grow through bark during the tree’s dormancy (late fall and winter). Then, in the growing season, the host trees respond by compartmentalizing the affected areas. This alternating growth of the fungus and the tree forms a distinct elongated, target-like appearance.

Identification: These cankers will appear sunken on branches or trunks and present the following:

• Colors vary from off-brown to gray shades
• Black fungal structures (pycnidia) embedded in small bumps around the wound
• Brownish to orangish masses of spores being extruded from pycnidia
• Oozing sap and/or a wet appearance

Tip: These cankers slowly expand over time and can eventually girdle the branch or the whole tree (when located on the trunk). Ask a professional tree service to evaluate your tree and recommend a course of action.

Diffuse Canker – With these highly lethal cankers, necrosis spreads so quickly that the host can’t compartmentalize the area fast enough to stop its progression. The differences between these and other cankers are:

• No callus rings are formed, the affected area appears dark, sunken, and often moist
• Diffuse cankers continue expanding during the growing season
• When these cankers occur on a tree’s trunk, the tree will likely die

Some of the pathogens responsible for diffuse cankers are:

• Phytophthora dieback
• Cytospora canker
• Botryosphaeria canker
• Hypoxylon canker
• Chestnut blight

Identification: Diffuse cankers appear as sunken, dark areas similar to other cankers, but with no callus rings. It is common to see sap oozing from these cankers.

Note: Diffuse cankers move fast enough to completely girdle and kill their hosts in a single growing season.

Managing Pathogen-Driven Canker Diseases – As with nearly all tree problems, prevention is easier and less costly than treatment. Consider the following:

• Properly prune your tree (only in dry weather)
• Sanitize all pruning equipment with 10% bleach or 70% alcohol before and after each tree
• Remove and destroy any dead or infected material
• Prevent tree wounds (mechanical and environmental)
• Soil should be well-drained
• Improve tree health (water, fertilize, prune, and mulch)
• Apply a preventative chemical treatment to un-infected trees

Tip: Have your trees inspected annually by a professional tree service. Besides early detection of disease, you may identify other stressors that increase your tree’s susceptibility to developing cankers.

Mushrooms on Tree Bark

When you see mushrooms growing on a tree, be concerned. Mushrooms are the fruiting structures of fungi. For them to appear, the fungi must be well-developed and have caused extensive decay within the tree. Consider the following:

Mushrooms on a Tree Branch – Carefully prune the branch from the tree and destroy (burn) it. Avoid spreading pathogens from one tree to the next by sanitizing your equipment with 10% bleach or 70% alcohol before and after working on infected trees.

After removing all visibly affected limbs or branches, monitor your tree over the next growing season and have it thoroughly inspected for any other potential issues (decay-causing fungi can quickly spread throughout a tree).

Mushrooms on a Tree Trunk – Call a professional tree service as quickly as possible. Your tree’s trunk is likely suffering from extensive internal decay and needs removal.

Mushrooms on a Tree’s Root Flare – Again, this is an urgent scenario. When mushrooms grow from the root flare, there is likely significant decay within the tree’s roots, potentially destabilizing the tree when winds and storms come through. The tree will likely require emergency removal.

Treatment: When dealing with mushrooms on your tree, you will be limited to removing affected limbs and branches. For this, prevention is easier and less costly than treatment. Consider the following:

• Properly prune your tree (3 cut method)
• Sanitize all pruning equipment with 10% bleach or 70% alcohol before and after each tree
• Remove and destroy (burn) any dead or infected material
• Prevent mechanical tree wounds
• Prepare your trees for severe weather events
• Soil should be well-drained to avoid root rot
• Improve tree health (water, fertilize, prune, and mulch)
• Apply a preventative chemical treatment to un-infected trees

Tip: Avoid disturbing these mushrooms. Trying to remove them can release billions of microscopic spores into the air, potentially spreading the disease to other trees, shrubs, and plants.

Tree Diseases

In this article, you discovered information about the diseases that affect and appear on tree bark, the damage they cause, and how to prevent them.

By taking swift action to treat or remove a diseased tree, you are protecting your property and surrounding trees.

When you ignore diseases appearing on tree bark, you risk the sudden death or destabilization of the tree and the expensive damages it can cause when it falls.

Sources:
uaex.edu/environment-nature/forestry/health/treecankers.pdf
extension.usu.edu/pests/ipm/notes_ag/fruit-cytospora
extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/cytospora-canker-2-937/

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/tree-diseases-on-bark/

The landscaping industry has increased steadily over the years with an average annual growth of 3.3% since 2015. Currently, the industry’s market size has reached $98.7 billion, with it increasing faster than the Administration, Business Support, and Waste Management Services sectors combined.

The National Association of Landscape Professionals (NALP) estimates that there will be over 100,000 people starting new landscaping businesses by 2025, so you are quite literally spoiled for choice. But how do you choose the right landscaping company for your particular needs? Well, the right landscaping company should be able to tell you the following:

1. Where do you get your plants?

While it would be beautiful to have the Japanese red maple and British ivy, these are risky to have in your yard. Using native plants in your garden would be more budget-friendly and have more longevity. Native plants will most likely cost less because they don’t have to be shipped from another country. They also have the highest chance of surviving. Foreign plants might struggle to acclimatize to their new surroundings, making them susceptible to pests and disease. Therefore, native plants don’t generally need as much maintenance as foreign plants.

2. What do you do with dead plants?

A good landscaper will know whether or not it’s time to remove dead plants, trees, and shrubbery, but a great landscape company can also tell you exactly what they do with these dead plants. Remember that dead trees can be made into organic mulch, firewood, or even sanctuaries for local wildlife, and dead plants can also be used for compost. If a landscaping company tells you that they just toss these in the bin or can’t tell you what they do with them at all, then you know they’re not as sustainable or eco-friendly as they may claim.

3. How long have you been in business and how big is your firm?

The longer a company has been in business, the more experience, manpower, and skill they should have to handle projects, so take into account the projects they’ve completed in the past. Check their portfolio. The size of the company also matters because the bigger it is, the wider their reach is as well. But this is good only to an extent. Ask about how many crews are under a single manager and how many communities they are in charge of, as it might so happen that one manager is overlooking five to eight crews that are servicing maybe 10 communities. This isn’t a very good ratio as the amount of work they have to do might make them impact their attention to detail when taking on your project.

4. Is your company bonded and fully insured?

A company that is both fully insured and bonded will give you the best service because they financially protect both themselves and the client, so go ahead and ask for documentation to put you at ease. A bonded landscaper takes care of the customer as it gives the client a feeling of security that the job will somehow be completed. An insured landscaper protects the contractor. If ever your property is damaged during the work, the insurance company will pay you. Insurance also covers worker’s compensation, such as medical expenses, if they are injured on the job, and wages.

Landscaping does not have much room for error, as any mistakes could cost you and the contractor both time and money. So don’t be afraid to ask your contractor questions until you are satisfied and confident that they can get the job done in a safe and timely manner.

Image: Unsplash

Prevent your chlorotic trees from further decline and death. Knowing how to recognize chlorosis in trees and reverse it will help you keep them growing and thriving.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered information on what chlorosis is, its causes, its symptoms, and how to treat it.

What is Chlorosis?

Chlorosis is the paling, lightening, or yellowing of foliage tissue. This condition occurs when a tree’s capacity to manufacture chlorophyll (needed for photosynthesis) is reduced or interrupted. A tree’s foliage can no longer produce the food it requires to grow and thrive when in a chlorotic state.

What Causes Chlorosis?

Foliar chlorosis can occur for several or multiple reasons. The following are among the most common:

Poor Soil Drainage – When the soil retains too much water, it can cause tree roots to stop absorbing vital nutrients. This condition may also lead to root rot and the death of the tree.

Compacted Soil – Foot, mechanical, and vehicular traffic around a tree’s root plate can cause soil compaction. This condition leaves the soil void of oxygen and moisture and generally leads to root and tree death.

Root Damage – When roots are damaged by digging activities or surface roots are damaged by mechanical and/or maintenance equipment, those roots may fail or become diseased. This condition can lead to the rapid decline and death of the tree.

Soil Alkalinity – When soil pH rises above 7.0, the soil becomes alkaline. It can no longer facilitate the absorption of iron and other nutrients required for robust photosynthesis. Ideally, a soil pH of 5.0 to 6.5 should be maintained.

Iron, Manganese, or Zinc Deficiencies – Of these deficiencies, iron is the most common cause of chlorosis. You can determine which of these deficiencies is causing chlorosis by observing which foliage became chlorotic first:

• Iron deficiencies cause younger or terminal leaves to become chlorotic first, then work inward to older or more mature foliage.
• Manganese and zinc deficiencies begin on the older leaves and then move outward.

Insufficient iron availability in the soil is the likely culprit in the absence of other chlorosis causes.

Disease – When a vascular tree disease invades the cambium (xylem and phloem layers beneath the bark), it can rapidly multiply, causing blockages of nutrient flows between the roots and canopy. This reduced transmission of water and nutrients can cause chlorosis, tree decline, and death. Some of those diseases include:

• Dutch Elm Disease
• Verticillium Wilt
• Oak Wilt
• Bacterial Leaf Scorch

These “wilt” diseases cause a tree’s canopy to become chlorotic, then wilted, then necrotic (dead). In many instances, such disease can kill a healthy tree within a single growing season.

Insect Infestation – Boring insects burrow beneath tree bark, creating galleries in the cambium layer or the tree’s heartwood. This activity results in the partial or complete girdling of the tree and/or the introduction of fungi leading to disease. Some of the boring insects responsible for this are:

• Clearwing Borers (day-flying, wasp-like moths)
• Emerald Ash Borer
• Bronze Birch Borer
• Bark Beetle
• Mountain Pine Beetle
• Ambrosia Beetle (named after the fungi it introduces to its host)
• Ips
• Twig Girdlers

Boring insects generally attack trees already in distress or decline. However, when beetle populations are in great numbers, they will attack healthy specimens. When these insects, or the disease they bring, cause enough damage, the tree canopy will first appear chlorotic, then wilted, and finally necrotic.

Note: In many cases, disease and insect infestations move quickly enough to wilt green foliage and kill the tree without showing signs of chlorosis.

Chlorosis Symptoms

Symptoms of chlorosis are generally the same among all tree species. Chlorosis is another way of expressing the yellowing of tree foliage, referring to light green or yellow leaves or needles rather than a healthy dark green. Frequently, leaf veins remain dark green while the rest of the leaf turns a contrasting lighter green or yellow.

Chlorosis Treatments

Many of the following treatments or solutions take time to correct the problem you are experiencing. In some cases, you may have to strongly consider removing the tree to protect the surrounding landscape. When your tree(s) become chlorotic, the following will help you develop a treatment strategy beyond foliar nutrient sprays and other temporary solutions:

Poor Soil Drainage – Most soil drainage issues occur when your soil is disproportionately composed of clay. You can improve soil drainage by:

• Slightly reducing your watering schedule
• Carefully tilling organic material (compost or wood chips) into your soil
• Maintaining fresh mulch around the root plate
• Increasing soil biodiversity by adding earthworms

Note: Tilling sandy soil with your organic material may speed up the betterment of your soil.

Compacted Soil – Even though they occur under different circumstances, compacted soil can be improved using the same treatment used to improve poor soil drainage.

Root Damage – Damaged roots should be cleaned and observed over time. In many cases, roots will compartmentalize damages and recover well. Consider the following:

• If damaged roots soften or become mushy, contact an arborist to evaluate your tree’s health.
• Consider raising the soil level to cover and protect any surface roots.
• If multiple roots have been damaged or severed from digging activities, call a professional to help you take corrective measures (if such measures are possible).

Root damage may require multiple growing seasons for the tree to fully recover. Be vigilant and patient.

Soil Alkalinity – Soil tests can be performed to determine soil pH and nutrient composition. Based on your soil test, you can adjust soil pH by amending agricultural sulfur (powdered sulfur, aluminum sulfate, or iron sulfate) to lower the soil pH, making it more acidic.

Iron, Manganese, or Zinc Deficiencies – Nutrient deficiencies may occur naturally and over time. Such deficiencies can be corrected as follows:

• Fix an iron deficiency by applying a chelated iron fertilizer, in which iron is combined with a chemical called a chelate that helps the iron remain in a plant-deliverable form.
• Fix a Manganese deficiency by liming your soil to the proper pH level for the tree. This is the most practical way to correct and prevent problems with Manganese. Using acid-forming fertilizers in the soil can increase the uptake of this and other essential micronutrients.
• Fix a zinc deficiency by adding zinc to the soil along with compost and/or other organic matter to sandy soil.

Disease – Disease management often requires multi-faceted approaches to help your tree overcome a vascular disease. Since extensive pruning and chemical treatments may be necessary, it is recommended to hire an ISA certified arborist to help you apply specific treatments safely.

Even with the most aggressive treatments, a diseased tree may need to be removed before the responsible pathogen spreads to neighboring trees.

Insect Infestation – Much like disease management, managing insect infestations requires multiple approaches to prevent tree decline and death. Consider the following:

• Set traps to capture adult insects
• Apply insecticides to infested trees coinciding with the pest’s emergence
• Apply chemical deterrents to unaffected trees
• Work to increase the health and vigor of your trees

Note: Treating an insect infestation must include discovering what left the tree weakened, allowing the infestation to occur.

Tip: Boring insect infestations should be communicated to a tree professional immediately. Like the emerald ash borer, many of these insects are closely watched due to their destructive nature and management difficulty.

Tree Foliage Chlorosis

In this article, you discovered information about chlorosis, what causes it in trees, the symptoms to watch for, and how to treat the condition.

By knowing how to identify chlorotic tree foliage, you can take swift action to discover and correct its cause.

You may be allowing disease or infestation to spread unchecked by ignoring chlorosis, resulting in catastrophic widespread tree damage and death.

Sources:
mortonarb.org/trees-plants/tree-and-plant-advice/horticulture-care/chlorosis
forestry.usu.edu/trees-cities-towns/tree-care/preventing-iron-chlorosis
ag.ndsu.edu/publications/lawns-gardens-trees/iron-chlorosis-in-trees
hyg.ipm.illinois.edu/pastpest/200611c.html
web.extension.illinois.edu/focus/index.cfm?problem=chlorosis
entomology.ca.uky.edu/ent43
extension.umd.edu/hgic/topics/root-damage

Don’t let root rot cause your trees to suddenly decline, die, and fall. Knowing how to identify root rot symptoms will help you save your tree or take action before it causes catastrophic property damages.

72tree.com gathered information on the causes of root rot in trees, how to recognize its symptoms, and what treatments you can use to stop or prevent it.

Tree Root Rot Causes

When root rot attacks a tree, the flow of water and nutrients from the roots to the crown is either impeded, or the invading pathogen is carried throughout the tree, killing its host. The following are several of those pathogens:

Rhizoctonia (this fungal pathogen adversely affects younger hosts, older trees are found to be more resistant)

Pythium (this fungus of the Pythiaceae family has 140 known species, most of which are now classified as parasites)

Rhododendron Root Rot (Phytophthora cactorum and Phytophthora cinnamomi were first thought to only survive in subtropical countries but is now known to thrive in cooler countries)

Fusarium (found worldwide, some of this pathogen’s species can adversely affect humans when infected crops are consumed)

Rosellinia necatrix (Dematophora necatrix, Hypoxylon necatrix, and Pleurographium necator, known as one of the most devastating plant fungal diseases, affecting several fruit tree and crop species)

Honey Fungi, Shoestring Root Rot, or Openky (Armillaria frequently occurs in hardwoods and pines)

Texas Root Rot (Phymatotrichopsis, Phymatotrichum, Cotton, or Ozonium root rot occurs more frequently in Mexico and the southwestern United States, causing sudden wilt and death)

Note: Fungal spores naturally occur and lie dormant in soil. These spores only begin reproducing when conditions support it. Such conditions include compacted soil, poorly-drained soil, and overwatering. As the fungi reproduce, tree roots provide a prime source of nutrients, allowing them to spread quickly.

Symptoms of Tree Root Rot

Most visible symptoms of root rot strikingly resemble the signs of an advanced pest infestation, making an accurate diagnosis more difficult. The most common, above ground, symptoms of root rot include:

• Gradual or sudden decline without a detectible reason
• Severely stunted or poor growth patterns
• Smaller, chlorotic leaves or needles (new growth)
• Wilted, yellowed, or browned leaves or needles
• Dieback
• Severe canopy thinning
• Stress crops (abnormally large amount of fruit/seeds)
• Fungal fruiting structures (mushrooms) found on the root flare or growing from surface roots
• Once in the xylem and phloem (cambium), cankers or sunken dead areas may appear on branches or the trunk of the host

A more accurate way to diagnose root rot is to dig to the roots to see if decay is present. Care should be taken when exposing roots to avoid inflicting further harm to the tree.

Note: Anthracnose is another group of fungal pathogens that cause similar above-ground tree damage but are not typically associated with root rot. You can find further information about anthracnose at 72tree.com/symptoms-of-anthracnose/

Tip: Hire an ISA certified arborist to inspect and accurately diagnose the cause(s) of the symptoms you have identified.

Tree Root Rot Treatment

Trees can sometimes be saved early on by pruning out infected roots. If a tree is in an advanced state of decline, the recommended way to control root rot diseases from spreading is to entirely remove it.

Chemical treatments that include propiconazole, chloropicrin, fosetyl-aluminum, or methyl bromide, among others, won’t completely cure or remove the disease but can reduce the infection level. These treatments are applied in and around the root plate of infected trees and especially in holes left after infected trees, and their stumps have been removed.

Note: The application of chemical treatments on your trees (for any reason) should be performed as directed on the product labeling and closely monitored by a certified arborist.

Root Rot Prevention for Trees

Trees have adapted over millennia to protect themselves against infection and illness. They are efficient at protecting themselves when healthy, and you can further assist them in resisting root rot by:

• Avoiding overwatering
• Ensuring proper water drainage by amending/enriching soil structure
• Preventing soil compaction on or around the root plate
• Protecting surface roots and trunks from mechanical and/or equipment damage
• Immediately addressing storm damage and/or soil erosion
• Removing unsalvageable trees from your property
• Planting disease-resistant species

Tip: You can also help trees fight fungal attacks by promoting their health. These are some of the things you can do to improve their health:

• Seasonal pruning
• Seasonally applying and refreshing organic mulch
• Deep watering (especially during drought conditions)
• Pre-growing season fertilization
• Annual tree inspections by a certified arborist

Note: The importance of annual tree inspections cannot be overstated. The ability to detect problems in their beginning stages offers more options to eliminate existing problems and take measures to prevent issues throughout the tree’s growing season.

Tree Root Rot

In this article, you discovered valuable information about the causes of tree root rot, recognizing its symptoms, and how to treat it or prevent it.

Taking swift action when root rot is suspected in your trees will increase your chances of saving them and preventing further infection.

Ignoring the signs of root rot will render your tree unsalvageable, invite other disease and infestation, and potentially cause catastrophic property damage when your tree destabilizes and falls.

Sources:
extension.umd.edu/hgic/topics/root-rots-trees-and-shrubs
ceventura.ucanr.edu/Com_Ag/Subtropical/Avocado_Handbook/Diseases/Root_rot,_how_to_spot_it_and_what_to_do_about_it/
forestpathology.org/root-diseases/
extension.psu.edu/rhizoctonia
hyg.ipm.illinois.edu/pastpest/199922c.html

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/tree-root-rot-causes-symptoms-treatments/

There’s a reason we all love the striking colors of fall foliage. The mosaic of reds, gold, and yellows is one of nature’s most remarkable displays, but even the most beautiful leaves will eventually fall. When too many accumulate in your yard, they can smother the lawn and keep it from growing. They can also attract pests. To avoid these problems, you may end up having to spend hours raking and bagging fallen leaves. While you can’t altogether avoid this chore, these leaf-raking tips from the tree pros at Red’s Tree Service can make the process faster and more efficient so you can enjoy those perfect Mid-South fall days.

Use the Right Rake 

There are a couple of things to consider when picking out a rake. You want a rake that is both comfortable to use and effective. Narrow rakes don’t gather as many leaves at a time, and the chore will take you much longer than necessary. Also, look for rakes labeled “no-clog.” These have angled tines that won’t pierce the leaves and create blockages.

If you can’t keep a good posture while you’re raking, you’ll become tired and sore. You could even injure your back. Plus, you’ll have to rake more often since you can’t do it as long. To avoid this, choose the right rake for your body. Before you buy your rake, make sure it feels good to use.

Wait for Leaves to Falling

Don’t bother raking every time a new batch of leaves falls. Wait until your trees are practically bare before taking on the job. 

Save Time With Tarps 

If the thought of filling small bags from a large pile of leaves over and over again sounds agonizing, consider raking your leaves on to a lightweight tarp. You can then tie the ends of the tarp together to take the leaves to a community collection center. Or, you can roll the tarp into a cylinder and funnel the leaves into your bags much more efficiently. 

Rake Before it Rains 

If rain is in the forecast, don’t put off raking that carpet of leaves you’ve meant to get around do. After a rainstorm, fallen leaves become soggy and dense, clumping together and clogging rakes, vacuums, and leaf blowers. All of this will make the task much more of a headache. 

Make Sure You’re Comfortable 

Comfort may not be the first thing on your mind when it comes to household chores, but it’s not something you should overlook for labor-intensive projects. Fallen leaves are dry and dusty, and the particles that raking, mowing, and leaf blowing stir up can irritate your eyes, sinuses, and irritate exposed skin. The dust is especially significant if you have allergies or asthma. Wearing a dust mask will keep you comfortable and safe, and a long-sleeved shirt and long pants can protect your skin. 

It’s also smart to wear durable work gloves, especially if you don’t do this repetitive motion often. Raking can cause painful blisters on unprotected hands. Remember to stand up straight and switch your leading hand to prevent fatigue and injury. 

And, of course, know your personal limits. There’s no need to rush through the job and wear yourself out. You’ll have several weeks to rake, so stop when you feel tired. 

Mulch While You Mow

If you only have a few fallen leaves in your yard, you can get rid of them while mulching your lawn at the same time. Just mow over the leaves. If your lawnmower has a mulch setting, even better. The blades will chop the dry leaves into small flakes that will quickly decompose and add nutrients to your lawn. 

Rake Small Piles to Bag 

If a kid or kid at heart has been looking forward to playing in a big pile of leaves, it’s best to bag or remove the leaves right away. Otherwise, a gust of wind can undo all your hard work. If you’re planning on bagging the leaves, rake into piles about the size of the bag. This will also make it easier to take breaks when you’re tired because you aren’t leaving anything undone. 

Use Leaf Blowers and Vacuums 

Leaf blowers and vacuums can do a lot of your work for you. As the name suggests, a leaf blower can significantly reduce the time you spend raking if you use it correctly. Start by sectioning out the yard and establishing a grid pattern, then work the leaf blower back and forth in rows. Make sure you aren’t too close or too far from the leaves. It can take a little time to get your technique just right, but it can be worth it in the long run. 

You may also consider investing in a yard vacuum with a built-in shredder. The vacuum sucks up the leaves and then chops them up into small pieces, so you don’t need to use as many bags. Yard vacuums also make it easier to pick up leaves under shrubs, between bushes, on top of stone or mulch, and in other places where raking can be tricky.

Some leaf blowers include a vacuum or mulch setting, so you get the best of both tools. You can use the chewed-up leaves from using the mulch setting to make leaf mold, an all-natural, nutrient-rich mulch-type dressing to replace store-bought mulch.

Plan Your Grid 

If you put all of your leaves in a central location, you’ll waste a lot of time and energy running back and forth. Instead, plan a raking grid by separating your lawn into sections and raking each section row by row. Using a grid pattern makes it easier to have a perfectly clean lawn. 

Let The Wind Work for You

Breezy fall weather may seem like a hindrance to your leaf raking, but you can actually use it to your advantage. Rake in the same direction the wind is blowing, and the gusts will help move the dry leaves along. If you rake against the wind, you’ll have to work twice as hard as the leaves blow back the way you came. 

If you found these leaf-raking tips helpful, contact Red’s Tree Service for more tree care tips or services that require the experience of a professional.

This post first appeared on https://redstreeservice.com