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Wondering how to take care of all the gorgeous trees on your Portland property? Check out this infographic on pruning, geared toward Portlanders. Learn about hardwoods and conifers commonly found around the Rose City. Understand the goals of structural, ornamental, and fruit tree pruning. Recognize common pruning myths, and the truth behind them. Finally, learn why it’s best to hire a professional Portland arborist for tree pruning.

This post first appeared on https://www.urbanforestprofessionals.com

This summer has been a scorcher. Drought conditions and sizzling temperatures have spurred the Oregon Department of Forestry to remind residents to water trees. In a July press release, the department emphasized the importance of consistently saturating the area beneath a tree’s drip line to mitigate the effects of hot, dry weather. In the same spirit, we’re sharing our Portland certified arborists’ tips on how to water your trees throughout the year.

Multiple factors influence watering needs. Established trees will generally require less water than newly planted trees. New trees’ root systems are less established, so they require careful watering during the first one or two years. Plant placement is also important. Buildings, walls, and fences can reflect heat, putting plants at risk of damage. These areas will need more water, as will windy zones. Soil composition matters, too. Sandy soils drain quickly and therefore need more frequent watering. Clay-heavy soils tend to hold onto moisture longer, so they can be irrigated less frequently. Portland tree care will also vary by species. Crape myrtle needs just monthly summer watering, while stone fruit trees have moderate watering needs (twice per month) and birches need the most water of all (three times per month). Water-hungry trees naturally grow along streams and rivers; species from arid region plants will survive far drier conditions.

Portland Tree Care: General Watering Tips
— Water at the Drip Line. Large, established trees have a root spread as wide as the tree is tall. Water the most critical part of the root system by soaking the area beneath the drip line.
—Slower is better. Trees can best soak up water when it is distributed slowly to a depth of 12 inches. Slow watering allows for best absorption. Irrigation lines are ideal for this style of watering. A good rule of thumb for each watering session is to slowly distribute 5 to 10 gallons of water for every inch in the tree’s diameter.
—Avoid soaking right around the tree’s trunk. Doing so can increase the chance of disease, fungal infestation in particular. Instead, focus on watering the area underneath and beyond the tree’s canopy. (Young trees are an exception to this rule; their roots will only occupy the planting hole area right around the trunk.)
—Be generous with damaged roots. Root systems that have been damaged will require more water for repair.
—Mulch for protection. Lay down a blanket mulch to a depth of three or four inches beneath the drip line. This will conserve moisture and offer some protection against cold. Leave the space right around the trunk free of mulch.
—Avoid extended soil saturation. Too much water can smother developing roots. If the underlying soil is soggy, hold off on watering. You can use a soil probe to determine soil moisture levels. A ¼” to 3/8” diameter rod will slide easily through moist soil, and become difficult to push into dry soil. You are looking for moisture at a depth of six inches below the soil surface.
—Water near the soil, not on foliage. Avoid spraying leaves with water. This can deposit salt and damage foliage. Overhead irrigation creates a disease-happy environment, where leaf spot diseases, mildew, fungus, and bacteria can take hold. Soaker hoses, standard hoses, and irrigation systems are the best water delivery systems.

With these overarching watering approaches in mind, let’s examine seasonal watering nees.

Summer Watering in Portland: Trees’ irrigation needs are at a zenith in the mid to late summer, when winter moisture has been exhausted from the soil. Deep watering will satisfy a tree’s summer needs for 10 days to four weeks, depending on the species and the conditions. During the most extreme conditions, watering once per week or more may be required, depending on how the soil holds moisture.

• Honor soil absorption rates. If you notice that the water is pooling, turn off the water for a while and it soak into the soil. Keep watering in this way—until the water begins to pool, in an off and on cycle—until the soil has been wetted to a depth of 18 to 24 inches. This may require several days to accomplish, unless you have drip irrigation systems installed.
• When to water in the summer: Water early in the morning and late at night, when evaporation rates are at a nadir.
• Look for signs of heat stress. If leaves are wilted, crisp or yellowing around the edges, they are struggling under the heat, and deep, consistent watering is needed.

Fall Watering in Portland
Here in the Rose City, the early fall is often dry and warm. Soils may still dry out under the crisp blue skies, so it’s best to maintain the same vigilance regarding soil moisture as in the summer.

Assuming moist soil conditions and cooler weather, fall is a good time for Portland tree planting. Be sure to support the development of root systems by watering weekly or more frequently if soil dryness calls for it.

Winter Watering in Portland
Portland’s winters tend to be soggy affairs. From time to time, Stumptown does see snow flurries. In those cases, wait to water. Winter watering should occur when air and soil temperatures are above 40 degrees Fahrenheit, with no snow cover.

• Water during dry spells. Monitor weather conditions. During extended dry periods, water once or twice per month.
• Avoid cracking soil. Winter freezing and thawing causes cracks in the soil. These cracks expose roots to desiccation and cold. Prevent this damage with regular watering and mulching.
• Water midday, so that water has an opportunity to soak in prior to nighttime freezing.

Spring Watering
Watering is typically less critical during Portland’s spring, as winter and spring rains tend to leave our soils damp.

• Check soil conditions weekly; water if you discover dryness at a depth of six inches.
• Water once per week during the growing season, if soil is dry.
• Deeply areas exposed to de-icing chemicals. Wash away any remnants of de-icing materials by deeply watering once or twice per year. Use up to three times what you would typically water, to wash away minerals and salts.

As this dry, hot summer winds down, it’s important to recognize that drought conditions leave trees more susceptible to disease and insect damage. Therefore, deep summer watering is key. We include watering advice in our Portland tree services. For a complete picture of your trees’ health needs, contact us. Our leading certified arborists are founts of tree knowledge. They can tell you how much water your species need, and how frequently to water each during the different seasons of the year.

This post first appeared on https://www.urbanforestprofessionals.com

Picture this: You’re walking through the forest on a hot, still day. Suddenly, you hear a popping sound, and then a huge branch drops just beyond your reach. After thanking your lucky stars that you weren’t crushed, you wonder why a limb should fall on such a windless, calm day? Googling your query, you might discover Sudden Branch Drop, a rather mysterious arboreal tendency that describes your experience.

As Portland tree care enthusiasts, we have many cases of mysteriously fallen limbs on perfectly calm days. Sudden branch drop, also known as sudden limb failure, happens on hot, calm days and evenings, typically in the summer. Observers will notice cracking or popping sounds just before large limbs suddenly plummet to the ground. Kellogg first described sudden branch drop in 1882, writing of trees “said to burst with a loud explosion, and strong limbs…(which) unexpectedly crash down, the fracture disclosing not the least cause of weakness.”

Why Sudden Branch Drop Occurs
Portland certified arborists could debate this question at length, as there is no industry-wide consensus. Most arborists suspect that it has something to do with humidity levels within the tree. Trees absorb water from the soil, and then distribute that water through all tissue—branches, trunk, leaves, limbs, and roots. The used moisture must be released somehow, and as it releases it cools the tree.

Humans release moisture and heat through sweat. Dogs “sweat” out of their tongues. Trees release water into the atmosphere through evapotranspiration, releasing moisture through their leaves. However, calm, hot conditions limit how much moisture trees can release. One theory on sudden branch drop holds that high humidity in tree canopies limits evapotranspiration, increasing the moisture content within branches, and eventually leading to limb failure.

Arborists and scientists continue to study why sudden branch drop happens. It is suspected that sudden branch drop could also be related to:

• a change in branch movement,
  • drought stress and very dry soil,
• tissue shrinkage (due to heat),
• internal cracks,
  • moisture changes in the air and soil,
  • gas release inside tissue, potentially caused by wetwood bacteria, which are common in the species affected by sudden branch drop, and
  • deterioration in cell wall structure, potentially caused by ethylene gas.
  Basically, sudden branch drop is the tree’s response to hot, dry environment where transpiration needs exceed vascular capabilities. When it gets too hot to keep all tissue properly circulated, the tree responds with auto-amputation, letting go of a limb.

Tools to Prevent Against Sudden Branch Drop
Sudden branch drop has been known to happen along lines of weakness; however, it is also possible in branches with no apparent flaws. Therefore, it is hard to predict. In general, it’s a good idea to keep an eye on your trees, especially large, mature trees. Older oaks, maples, ashes, beeches, and elms are common victims of sudden branch drop, but it has occurred in dozens of other species as well. Trees with large, horizontal limbs with an upward sweep at the tips are more likely to suddenly drop limbs. Oftentimes, branches that suddenly drop are those that extended beyond the tree’s main canopy.

While inspecting your trees, look for discoloration, particularly a darker spot where water appears to be “bleeding” out of the tree. This is a sign of a potential limb flaw, which could contribute to limb failure.

Do not place benches or tables below older trees that may suffer sudden limb drop.

As always, consistent, expert Portland tree pruning is the best preventative action you can take to protect your trees from sudden branch drop. Schedule regular tree maintenance with our Portland certified arborists. Our ISA-certified arborists are pruning masters with expertise on how to best cut to minimize the chances of sudden branch drop. Portland tree trimming from less experienced, less knowledgeable pruners may leave excess foliage at the end of limbs, thereby increasing the burden the tree must support on hot, dry days. Sudden branch drop is dangerous for bystanders and detrimental to tree health. Protect against it with regular, professional pruning.

Check out what Brian had to say about us on Google.

“Great service from UFP. I’ve hired them on multiple jobs, and I find them very professional, quick, and careful. I won’t hesitate to call them again when I need an arborist.”

5/5 ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
(December 23, 2019)

This post first appeared on https://www.urbanforestprofessionals.com

There are so many reasons to prioritize consistent Portland tree care: it increases your property value, benefits the environment, and makes your yard more enjoyable. During the dry summer months, fire prevention is yet another reason to take care of your trees. Without regular pruning, trees sport more dead material, which can serve as fire fuel. Read on for our tips on how to prevent property fires through landscape and general home maintenance.

Creating a Landscape that Discourages Fires
—Remove dead plant materials. Dead grasses, bushes, and trees are fire fuel. In rural areas, you may be able to burn dead plants with the proper permitting. In urban zones, add dead plants to your on-site compost, or (in Portland) stick it in your city compost bin.
—Create Defensible Space. Those in rural, especially fire-prone areas should create a 30’ treeless perimeter around their homes with minimal vegetation. This decreases the chance that flames will reach the structure. Additionally, defensible space makes it easier for firefighters to defend the home. Homes on a hill require more defensible space (150’ perimeter), because fire moves more quickly up a slope.
—Remove Roof and Gutter Fire Hazards. Remove dead branches that overhang roofs. Keep gutters and roof valleys clear of grasses and other plant material. A good rule of thumb is to keep branches at least ten feet from your roof.
—Prune shade trees so that lowest limbs are at least six feet off the ground. This minimizes the amount of organic material that’s accessible to ground fires.
—Keep trees healthy; vigorous trees are more likely to survive a fire. Schedule regular Portland tree trimming from certified arborists. Be sure to remove deadwood while pruning.

General Maintenance Tips for Preventing Fires on your Property

Recognize the Signs of a Dry, Stressed Tree. Pay attention to the health of your trees. If you notice the following clues, your tree may be diseased or dead.
• Unusual leaf loss, or a reduction in leaf growth
• Brittle bark that falls off the tree, or cracks in the bark
• Fallen limbs, as well as leafless branches that are spongy or brittle
• Open wounds or soft spots
• Fungus growth (indicates internal rot)
• Twigs that break evenly and cleanly, with a brown interior. A healthy twig will bend, and its interior will be green.
Dying trees are dry trees; as such they constitute a fire hazard. If you discover a dead or dying tree on your property, call us to arrange Portland tree removal.

Grill and Burn Safely. When fire is involved stay alert. Grill safely—keep grills away from deck railings and structures. Gas grills have their own safety requirements; understand your grill and have a plan for putting out unexpected fires. For instance, when grilling you can keep a bucket of water and/or a fire extinguisher handy. The same safety approach applies to bonfires: have a plan for quickly extinguishing the fire, and look out for dry materials overhead. If tree branches droop dangerously over the bonfire area, trim them away before burning.
Maintain emergency vehicle access. Fire trucks cannot access rutted, steep, or poorly maintained roads. Each rural fire district has its own standards for driveways.

Practice interior fire safety. From checking fire alarms to clearing out fireplaces, there are plenty of ways to prevent fires inside your home. Check out the State of Oregon’s Home Fire Safety Checklist for more information.

Thin Lush Vegetation. Fires are a natural, cyclical event in Western forests. When they occur regularly, fires minimize burnable materials. However, since European settlement, fires have been repressed. Less frequent fires means more dead plants are available to burn, so that those fires that do occur tend to be more intense. If your property is thick with growth, consider controlled burning to reduce the amount of fire fuel on the ground.

If you have questions about your property, you can always get in touch with Urban Forest Pro. Our Portland certified arborists are happy to visit your home and suggest effective approaches for minimizing fire danger in your landscape.

This post first appeared on https://www.urbanforestprofessionals.com

In one corner, we have trees. In the other, solar panels. Which one will win in America’s cities? Should we prioritize the urban canopy, or open up spaces to harvest sun power? Well, as Portland certified arborists, we don’t think this has to be a fight. While homeowners may feel they must choose between solar panels and trees, we have found it is possible for both to coexist effectively. Homeowners from Washington DC to San Jose have fought or even sued over solar access, oftentimes with two environmentally conscious neighbors battling over who has the ecological upper ground. However, as we outline below, proper tree placement and pruning can allow solar panels to function in proximity to shade trees.

There’s no denying that solar panels do not operate as well under shade. A Renewable Energy Laboratory study found that shadows over PV (photovoltaic) panels reduce power production by one third. Researchers are aware of the problem, and are looking for ways to boost productivity in shady conditions. The National Renewable Energy Laboratory recently found a way to increase productivity under shade by 12%, by using microinverters instead of string inverters within PV panels.

In some parts of the country, the solar panel vs. tree debate has spurred legal battles and legislation. For example, California’s Solar Shade Act was passed in 1978 to protect homeowners’ investments in solar energy. The law made it a crime to impede panels’ sun access. In 2008, a couple in Sunnyvale, California was convicted on criminal charges that their backyard redwood trees blocked their neighbor’s PV panels. In response, state Senator Joe Simitian passed a bill protecting pre-existing trees, so that homeowners cannot be prosecuted for planting trees prior to the installation of neighbors’ solar panels.

Here in Oregon, there is no solar access law protecting solar panel owners from similar situations. For property owners in Portland, tree services cannot be court-ordered to protect solar access. However, homeowners can request voluntary easements asking neighbors to maintain sunshine availability. That’s the first step in achieving tree- and solar-friendly boroughs: open and respectful communication between neighbors. Here are a few more techniques for preserving both solar access and healthy tree growth.

Portland Certified Arborists’ Tips For Tree Care with Solar Panels
• Place trees away from home to prevent blocking, scratching, and otherwise damaging solar panels.
• Avoid planting trees near the west or southwestern facing sides of home; these directions receive the strongest sunlight and are the best options for solar panel placement.
• Properly maintain trees that are already planted, to prevent solar panel damage. Regular Portland tree trimming will minimize neighbor disputes and protect PV panels.
• Remove dying trees, which pose a threat to nearby structures including solar-paneled roofs. Portland tree removal is recommended for unstable, unhealthy trees.

If you have questions about a certain tree on your property, get in touch. We can provide recommendations on how to enjoy both solar energy and vibrantly healthy trees. Our ISA certified arborists are happy to answer your Portland tree planting questions. We can calculate sunlight angles onto PV panels, according to each specimen’s mature height. Our arborists can also provide recommendations on the best tree placement for solar panels. Call us today for more information on how to balance shade with solar access.

This post first appeared on https://www.urbanforestprofessionals.com

Siding protects and waterproofs your home. Any structure lacking strong, snug siding is vulnerable to weather and pest damage. As Portland tree care specialists, we are passionate about adding trees to the urban canopy—but not at the expense of structures. If trees and shrubs are too close to siding, damage is likely.

Portland Certified Arborists on How Trees and Shrubs can Affect Siding

• Branches can scrape siding, compromising its strength.
• As the protective surface is worn away, scraping branches can cause the premature failure of paint, vinyl and aluminum.
• Trees and bushes can also push into siding, opening cracks where insects and other pests can gain ingress.
  • Lush greenery may prevent air circulation and evaporation, potentially leading to rot or mold.
• Bushes may trap moisture near the foundation, leading to damp, moldy basements.
  •Large dead branches can fall and rip away siding.

Protecting your Siding from Plant Damage

When siding is concealed by flora, problems may not be discovered for years. That’s why it’s key to conduct regular visual inspections. Every season, pull away branches to look for scratches, dents, rot, and mold. Keep in mind that east and north sides tend to grow more mold. If you find any damage, it’s time to trim back those trees and bushes.

When placing new specimens, give them plenty of room to grow. Note the size of the mature plant, and leave a broad diameter accordingly. Overall, it’s best to set bushes and trees ten feet back from structures.

For those trees and bushes that are already placed near your home, be vigilant about pruning. Portland tree trimming should be done every 3 to 7 years, depending on the type of tree. Deciduous trees should receive pruning every 3 to 5 years, while evergreen trees may be pruned every 5 to 7 years. Ornamental trees are trimmed yearly, or more frequently according to the desired look. More frequent pruning may be required for plants that are situated near structures.

As your Portland tree pruning experts, we would be happy to visit your property and provide recommendations that will protect both your trees and your home. From safely removing dead trees to expertly trimming branches away from siding, we can adroitly handle your family’s tree care needs. Call us today to learn more about our tree pruning services.

Check out what Phyllis had to say about us on Google:

“All the crew at Urban Forest Pro are attentive and skilled. The pride they take in their work is obvious as they left all the shrubs and trees looking and grounds in outstanding shape. The whole property is healthier and brighter due to careful tree trimming, shrub trimming and meticulous stump grinding. The admin staff was patient and thoughtful and walked us through the process. I highly recommend these personable professionals and will use them again for all my arbor work.”

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
5/5

(Dec 20, 2019)

This post first appeared on https://www.urbanforestprofessionals.com

Though winter is the most recommended time to prune, Portland tree pruning in the summertime can provide particular benefits for fruit trees and damaged trees. It can also be advantageous for general tree shaping.

The following is a simple guide to summer tree pruning. As always, please consult our Portland certified arborists for specialized knowledge and information.

Summer Tree Pruning Goals & Benefits

1. Remove dead limbs. Summer pruning plays an important role in the removal of dead, damaged, and diseased tree limbs. Any limb that has the potential to cause damage or stress to your tree should be removed. This enhances the tree’s potential for robust growth while minimizing the chance that a weakened branch will fall on your home during a storm.
2. Encourage hearty growth. Pruning in summer may encourage vigor. In summertime, weak tree growth should be pinched or pruned back about 3 inches from the end of each soft, leafy shoot. This can be repeated again in late summer if rapid side-shoot growth occurs. As always, it is best to leave pruning in the hands of professionals, such as our Portland certified arborists.
3. Help fruit trees grow strong. Fruit trees are often good candidates for summer pruning. Pruning them allows more light penetration, which can support young tree development. Proper pruning can encourage mature trees to produce fruit of greater quality and size. Increased light and air circulation resulting from pruning encourages the overall health of the tree. Pruning in the summer helps to support robust and durable branch development, which will help support healthy fruit in the future. Some fruit trees, such as apricots and cherries, are susceptible to disease when pruned during the rainy season. It is best to prune these fruit trees in the summer, preferably in July or August. Peach trees, nectarine trees, and Japanese plum trees often grow very quickly, rapidly reaching impressive heights, while neglecting the development of sturdy limbs. Pruning these trees in the summer can reduce this occurrence, and support the growth of stronger branches. As always, it is best to consult a Portland tree pruning expert as each fruit tree is different.

4. Pest Control. Another benefit of summer pruning is pest control. By removing branches and fruit that have mites or aphid damage you are protecting the overall health and longevity of the tree. You are also ensuring that your fruit trees produce delicious, healthy fruit that’s free of pests. Make sure to throw out these defective limbs or fruits. To prevent infestation, do not compost them.

Summer Pruning: Special Considerations and Potential Dangers

Pruning in the summer is primarily for shaping and creating a solid structure. Heavy pruning should be saved for winter, when trees are under less stress. Moreover, it is important to do your summer pruning earlier in the season. If you wait to long, you could put the tree at risk of water damage or winter injury. Rain can damage fresh cuts on a tree, so it is better to wait to prune if rain is in the near future. Avoid pruning in fall all together.

If you are still mulling over whether or not to prune and/or how much to prune, it is likely in your best interest and the best interest of your beautiful trees to contact a reputable Portland tree pruning service such as Urban Forest Professionals.

Check out what Craig had to say about us on Google.

“Definitely recommend UFP for tree trimming and removal. Had tree work performed at my house recently, both the consultation with the arborist and the work crews were very professional. Did exactly what they quoted, for the quoted price and stuck to schedule. Took all debris from the job and even swept up the patio! Will hire again.”

5/5 ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
(December 23, 2019)

This post first appeared on https://www.urbanforestprofessionals.com

In roof damage, water is the ultimate culprit. Stagnant water can seep under shingles and flashing, leading to rot and costly damage. All roof maintenance tasks maximize roof life by minimizing water ingress. Proper tree care plays its own role in your roof’s lifespan. Today we’re taking a look at the tree side of roof maintenance, including tree trimming, clearing away tree debris, and being selective about where you plant trees in the first place.

Portland Certified Arborists on Tree Care to Maximize Roof Life

Trim Trees Regularly. Especially in lush locales such as Portland, tree pruning is key, especially in the summer. Without regular trimming, tree limbs are more likely to fall and cause roof damage. A weakened branch may come tumbling down during the next roof storm, leaving a gaping hole in your roof. Prevention is the name of the game here—by trimming away sick, dead, or otherwise weakened branches, you can prevent storm roof damage.

With that said, tree pruning is dangerous and demanding work that is best left to professionals. Try to tackle tree trimming yourself, however, and you could create more damage than you thwart. It is best to leave the pruning to Portland certified arborists.

Clear Away Tree Debris. Leaves, pine needles, and branches can become lodged in the lower sections of your roof. For instance, a drift of dead leaves may pile up against a dormer. To prevent water retention and weed growth, it’s important to keep your roof clear of tree blossoms, leaves, and branches.

Keep Branches Away from Your Roof. Overhanging branches are problematic, as they may rub against roof shingles and erode away protection. Additionally, such branches give rodents access to your roof, where they may chew away materials or cause damage through nesting. To prevent roof damage, it is best to keep branches at least ten feet away from your roof.

Clear Your Gutters Once or Twice per Year. Gutters inevitably fill with leaves and other organic buildup. Fail to empty the gutters, and you face water spilling over the gutters, and into your home. Gutter clearance is important in long-term roof life.

Avoid Planting Problematic Trees Right Next To Your Property. Fast-growing species with weaker root systems will be more liable to fall on your roof. When choosing trees, select slow-growing species, and consider how each variety’s height might put your roof at risk.

As Portland tree care specialists, we see green space maintenance as providing dozens of benefits—energy savings, higher air quality, and increased property value. Proper tree maintenance also helps protect your roof, as we’ve seen. For more advice on tree trimming and tree selection, give us a call. We can advise you on the best choices for your entire property, including your investment in your roof.

This post first appeared on https://www.urbanforestprofessionals.com

Why mulch? Because mulching improves water retention, optimizes soil temperature, and reduces general stress on plants and plant roots. Mulch also keeps weeds out and prevents soil compaction. Finally, mulch adds to the quality of the soil as it decomposes. In this article, we’re exploring all things mulch, from proper mulching technique to types of mulch to common mistakes to avoid.

How to Mulch Your Tree

Clear away grass around your tree within a 3 to 10 foot area, depending on the tree size. Add natural mulch to this cleared area, about 2 to 4 inches deep, but ensure mulch does not touch the trunk of the tree. If mulch is piled up around the tree trunk, it will limit the tree’s ability to take in oxygen and nutrients. Consult Portland arborists to learn more about proper tree mulching practices and general best practices for Portland tree care.

Mulching Mistakes to Avoid

Mulching is a very important aspect of caring for your trees and plants, but acting without enough information may result in unfortunate mistakes. Mitigate these risks by following our recommendations on what not to do when mulching:

• Don’t over-mulch. Too much mulch can cause plants to become stressed in harsh weather conditions. The standard recommended mulching depth is 3 inches.
• Understand how different mulching materials decay. Some mulches last longer than others. For instance, tree trimmings decay quite rapidly, so if you use them as mulch you may need to mulch more frequently.
• Don’t pile mulch around the base of the tree. Sometimes called “volcano” mulching, this practice piles up mulch around the trunk. Not only does this suffocate parts of the tree that are designed to be open to the air; it also promotes the growth of harmful fungi. Leave a six-inch mulch-free radius around the trunk. Outside of this ring, plan to mulch all the way to the tree’s drip line.
• Be picky about your mulch. When purchasing mulch, make sure you are getting it from a reliable source. Mulch that was stored near weeds, or which has grown fungus could negatively impact your tree’s health.

Choosing the Best Mulch for Your Trees

Mulch is a blanket term that contains a wide variety of products, each with their own unique form and specialty. The two main categories are organic and inorganic mulch. Organic mulch decomposes and provides additional nutrients to the soil. While organic mulch has to be replenished more often, it is often preferred for its nutritional benefits. Inorganic mulch provides good surface drainage, discourages soil splash onto plants, and daunts moss. Inorganic mulch does not decompose and thus does not need to be replaced as often.

Common organic mulch includes:
• Farm manure, which is good for shrubs and roses and is useful for nutrients;
• Composted bark, which is good around trees and shrubs, particularly acid-loving plants, and is quite nutritious;
• Wood chips that decompose slowly and take nitrogen from the soil;
• Garden compost that prevents weed seeds from germinating and supplies gradual nutrients;
• Composted straw, which may contain weed seeds and is low in nutrients, but can also be useful;
• Mushroom compost, which supplies some nutrients and decays slowly, but is not recommended for use around acid-loving plants.

Common inorganic mulch includes:
• Gravel, which is good for drought tolerant plants;
• Cobbles and pebbles, which are an attractive way to mulch;
• Coarse grit and stone chips, which can be ideal for small plants such as succulents in raised beds;
• Black plastic sheeting, which can suppress weeds and is often laid around new trees and shrubs. Geotextile membranes are often useful to retain moisture and suppress weeds around newly planted trees and shrubs.

Of course, Portland arborists will have the best information on Portland tree care. Thus, if you are stumped by which mulch to choose, or how to properly place your mulch, it’s best to consult the experts. Arrange for Portland tree services with our ISA certified arborist. From mulching to pruning to tree removal, Urban Forest Professional’s arborists will provide the expertise and technique to keep your trees growing strong.

This post first appeared on https://www.urbanforestprofessionals.com

Sudden Oak Death (SOD) is a serious disease that often necessitates tree removal. It is caused by the plant pathogen Phtophthora Ramorum. SOD spreads by air and water; its most common transmission method is to splash onto other plants via rainwater. Since the mid 1990s, SOD has killed millions of trees in Oregon and California. It was first found in Oregon nurseries in 2003. OPB reports, “If Sudden Oak Death goes unchecked, it could cause significant damage to Oregon’s forest ecosystems.” Sudden Oak Death is worthy of its name; it can kill a tanoak in a few days. However, this plant pest affects more than just oak trees; rhododendron, evergreen huckleberry, azaleas, red oaks, and 130 other beloved Oregon plants are susceptible to SOD. To protect your plants from this deadly disease, read on.

Sudden Oak Death: Protecting your Garden from the Ravages of Phtophthora Ramorum

Signs of SOD Infection. Phytophthora Ramorum manifests in two different ways, depending on the host plant. In shrubs and other non-woody plants, the disease shows as leaf spots, and sometimes shoot dieback. In tanoaks and oaks, the same pathogen causes a completely different symptom: bole or trunk cankers, with dark thick sap seeping from bark.

Keep in mind that other organisms and injuries can cause similar symptoms as SOD. To ensure accurate Portland tree care, it may be necessary to have a tissue sample from the tree tested at a laboratory, and to consult with Portland Certified Arborists who can identify what Phytophthora Ramorum looks like in various plant species.

Protecting your trees from SOD

A knowledgeable and watchful public is key to Oregon tree care, This vital prevention strategy can slow or stop the spread of Sudden Oak Disease. If you have identified that you live in an area affected by SOD, or have trees or shrubs that are susceptible to SOD, one way of prevention is to take many samples from many trees annually.

If you are coming and going from an area that is infected with SOD, make sure clean shoes, vehicles, pets, etc. before returning to the uninfected area.

An April 2015 OPB report on SOD similarly recommends the following prevention strategies:

• Determine if you have any susceptible species.
• Check to see if you are in a currently infected area (although, even if you are not your trees and plants can still be susceptible).
• Inspect your trees and plants for symptoms.

Sudden Oak Death is serious business. Once called the “Ebola of the plant world” by Ross Meentemeyer, director of the Center for Geospatial Analytics, SOD has the potential to devastate and wipe out the beauty of Portland’s tree-line streets, parks, and backyard gardens. It is important to prevent SOD (and ensuing Portland tree removal) when possible. Proper diagnosis and treatment and certified Portland tree care experts can help you identify, treat, and prevent the spread of this nasty tree virus. If you think that your tree may have become infected, or have other SOD related questions, it is paramount that you get in touch with Urban Forest Professionals immediately! Only you can prevent the spread of Sudden Oak Death.

This post first appeared on https://www.urbanforestprofessionals.com