Author: admin

There’s something so beautiful about sitting under the shade of a huge tree in the summertime, isn’t there? Thanks to our forefathers in the Mid-South, there are plenty of old trees that have been planted and maintained around town, and plenty more people are planting new trees all the time. We know just how special trees are to making your yard feel like a beautiful and comfortable home.

If you are considering adding a new tree to your lawn, we are thrilled for you! But there are a few things you should consider to help maintain the safety of the tree and your home and property. At Red’s Tree Service, we’ve seen it all before, and we know what can happen when you plant too close to your home.

Let’s go through a few things to consider before planting that beautiful new tree:

Potential Damage

The first thing that many people think of when considering adding a tree near their house is potential fall damage. This is a real risk! For mature trees, large limbs can fall when disturbed during storms or wind, and if a tree comes down entirely on top of your home, it can be terrifying and deadly. Some trees attract insects or diseases that might weaken them, making them an even greater fall risk. 

These reasons alone make a great case for planting trees further away from the house and having them assessed often to make sure they are in good health.

Soil Moisture and Concrete

One of the surprising things to consider when thinking about trees on your property is soil moisture. Because the roots of trees soak up water, the soil surrounding it can contract and expand over time, putting pressure on the foundation and potentially causing cracks and other problems. 

This is also true for concrete like sidewalks or driveways near your house. It is common to see paved areas pushed up, cracked, and completely broken due to tree roots.

Research Your Roots

Speaking of roots, it’s worth doing a little research on the kind of root systems that your desired tree might have. Depending on the type of tree, some root systems grow to be one to three times the width of its canopy and in some cases, twice as wide as the tree is high! This means a massive root system that can take over the entire property if given a chance. 

There are also some tree types with more aggressive roots, like maples, willows, and elms, that should be planted far from foundations, utility lines, and septic tanks. This is why it is always important to research which kinds of trees you want to use. If you have a smaller property, it might be better to choose a different tree with less pernicious roots. Ultimately, you don’t want to risk the integrity of your home’s foundation and structure because of a tree you haphazardly planted years ago. 

If you already have a tree on your property that is located close to your home and you are worried about the roots, give Red’s Tree Service a call to give you a free quote before attempting to remove the tree yourself. There is no guarantee that every tree’s roots will cause problems, and it’s better to check things out and be safe than sorry.

Be Prepared to Clean Up Branches, Twigs, and Leaves

A smaller but still tedious task with tree care is to manage debris. After storms and wind, you can almost always expect to be picking up branches, twigs, and blown leaves and to be cleaning them out of gutters if they are over your house. This is a big responsibility because if these tasks are neglected, it can harm your house and make a mess of your yard. 

Keep all of these tips in mind when thinking about trees and their proximity to your house!

Take Care of Your Trees with Red’s Tree Service

The good news is that you won’t have to make these decisions alone! Whether you are considering trees to plant on your property or are thinking of buying a house with mature trees already planted, there is plenty to consider, and Red’s Tree Service is here to help.

Risk Assessment

Red’s Tree Service offers risk assessments for your trees, where we come out to your property and determine if a tree is causing a risk to your home or assets. We can advise possible solutions, such as trimming or removing the tree. We can also determine if a tree is healthy or sick and can follow up with annual visits to ensure that it remains safe for you and your family. 

Preventative Maintenance

Preventative maintenance means pruning, trimming, and fertilizing your trees and shrubs. We can remove deadwood that not only makes the tree look better but can help it to have a healthier, longer life, hopefully preventing falls or damage.

Tree Removal

When necessary, we provide tree removal services to clear up fallen trees and branches after a storm or from a dying tree. We can also remove and grind the stump, depending on your needs.

Deep Root Fertilization

Another way to encourage the long, healthy life of your trees is through our deep-root fertilization treatments. We add vital nutrients back into the soul that the tree needs to thrive and flourish. 

If you are in need of some tree expertise, don’t hesitate to call Red’s Tree Service! We have been caring for trees across the Mid-South for over 40 years and know that we have the right solution for whatever tree problem you have! 

This post first appeared on https://redstreeservice.com

Need help deciding which trees with twisted trunks and branches to use as a specimen on your landscape? Knowing which tree species grow in a twisted form will help you determine which one to plant as a centerpiece on your beautiful landscape.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered the following species and growing information for naturally twisty trees to consider for your landscape’s specimen tree.

What Causes a Twisted Tree?

Spiral or twisted patterns are clever tree survival adaptations. Since the bark and wood of trees do not grow in unison, the spiral pattern beneath the bark may not be evident until the bark drops from the tree.

Tree wood cells that must support heavy loads of massive branches and a dense crown, growing in an excessively windy location, or grow on unusually uneven land, like shore pines that grow in windy and sandy areas, can grow in a twisted pattern to provide more strength to the tree and its branches.

Environmental factors like prevailing winds, compromised roots, and physical barriers can cause trees to twist and adapt. A spiral wood grain efficiently and evenly delivers water and nutrients throughout the tree when straight grain wouldn’t be sufficient. Other common theories include the following:

• Tree genetics
• Heliotropism (tracking the sun)
• The Coriolis Effect (causing the clockwise wind pattern and ocean current in the northern hemisphere)

Regardless of why they twist, they are a sight to behold as they mature. Consider the following twisty tree species for your landscape needs:

Jack Pine (Pinus banksiana)

Jack pine needles typically grow in bundles of two, the tree’s cones are tightly wrapped and slightly curved, while the tree’s bark is thin and flaky on younger trees, maturing into thicker plates as they age. This species has crooked branching and trunk development when grown in open landscapes (rather than forested or crowded situations), giving it an oversized bonsai appearance.

USDA Hardiness Zones – 2 through 6
Mature Size – This tree reaches 40 to 50 feet with a spread of 15 to 20 feet
Lifespan – 80 to 100+ years

Scotch Pine (Pinus sylvestris)

The Scotch pine is a fast-growing, medium-sized evergreen conifer that typically grows with a conical to columnar (often irregular and contorted) habit and then develops an open, rounded irregular, or gnarled crown as it ages. Cones are small and rounded, while needles typically grow in twisted bunches of two.

USDA Hardiness Zones – 3 through 7
Mature Size – This tree reaches 30 to 60 feet with a spread of 30 to 40 feet
Lifespan – 150 to 300 years

Japanese Black Pine (Pinus thunbergii)

The Japanese black pine is an attractive evergreen conifer tree with a typically flat-topped pyramidal form with no prominent central leader. As this species ages, it grows irregular and asymmetrical, with drooping branches. The tree is noted for its shrubby habit and curved trunk.

USDA Hardiness Zones – 5 through 9
Mature Size – This tree reaches 20 to 60 feet with a spread of 10 to 20 feet
Lifespan – 15 to 20 years

Cork Oak (Quercus suber)

Unlike other oak trees, cork oak is a vibrant evergreen. The thick, gnarled dark grey bark is the portion known as “cork.” This tree can form a twisted trunk with sprawling branches.

USDA Hardiness Zones – 7 through 9
Mature Size – This tree reaches 30 to 65 feet with an equally sized spread
Lifespan – Over 200 years

Overcup Oak (Quercus lyrata)

Overcup oak is a medium-sized tree with an irregular crown and twisted branches. Native to North American east coastal plains, this tree’s often twisted growth reduces its value as a timber tree.

USDA Hardiness Zones – 5 through 9
Mature Size – This tree reaches 45 to 70 feet with a spread of 35 to 50 feet
Lifespan – 80 to 100+ years

Willow (Peppermint) Myrtle (Agonis flexuosa)

This species resembles a weeping willow (Salix babylonica) tree from a distance due to its long, drooping leaves. It is distinctive because of its powerful peppermint fragrance. This tree produces clusters of small white flowers, and its weeping branches partially conceal its twisted trunk.

USDA Hardiness Zones – 8b through 11
Mature Size – This tree reaches 10 to 15 feet with a spread of 8 to 10 feet
Lifespan – 50 to 80 years

Twisted Acacia (Acacia schaffneri)

Twisted Acacia is a spiny, spreading, multi-stemmed large shrub or small tree. The stems have many paired, pin-like spines and are pale to blackish. When young, a twisted Acacia needs aggressive pruning to maximize its gnarled trunk and branch growth.

USDA Hardiness Zones – 9 through 11
Mature Size – This tree reaches 20 to 25 feet with a spread of 25 to 30 feet
Lifespan – 30 years

Trees With Twisted Trunks

Some trees have a tendency for a “pronounced” twisted appearance where the trunk deviates from the species’ typical straight growth. Planting a tree that exhibits twisted trunk or branch growth adds curiosity and interest to a landscape and serves as a focal point or specimen tree. When choosing a tree species, select one that has this tendency. It is not guaranteed that an individual young tree will develop pronounced twists, but the result is worth the gamble.

Twisty Trees

In this article, you discovered species and growing information about several trees that grow with twisted trunks, branches, or both.

Knowing which tree species have twisting growth patterns will help you decide which to use as your landscape’s specimen tree.

Lack of info about twisted tree species may cause you to plant the wrong tree.

Sources:
wta.org/news/signpost/why-do-trees-grow-in-spirals
savetheredwoods.org/blog/forest/why-so-some-trees-grow-in-spirals/
nfs.unl.edu/woody-plants/jack-pine
plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/pinus-sylvestris/
uaex.uada.edu/yard-garden/resource-library/plant-week/Pinus-thunbergii-Japanese-Black-Pine-12-21-2017.aspx
sites.redlands.edu/trees/species-accounts/cork-oak/
rangeplants.tamu.edu/plant/twisted-acacia-huisachillo/
selectree.calpoly.edu/tree-detail/agonis-flexuosa

For the original version of this article visit: http://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com/5-specimen-trees-for-your-marietta-georgia-yard/

Tired of pooling water and dying plants, shrubs, and trees on your property? Understanding what well-drained soil is and the crucial role it plays in keeping your landscape alive will help you take action to correct poor soil drainage.

72tree.com gathered the following information about what well-drained soil is, why it is essential to plant life, and what you can do to improve your soil’s drainage.

Well-Drained Soil Defined

Well-drained soil allows water to move through it quickly and not pool. Standing water or saturated soil deprives roots of oxygen and can lead to root rot, disease, and decline (ironically) from hydraulic failure in the plant’s vascular system. Some plants, shrubs, and tree species are adapted to tolerate saturated conditions longer than others but will eventually suffer a similar fate.

Poor Soil Drainage Symptoms

Besides pooling water and soil erosion, plants growing in poorly-drained soil suffer from a lack of oxygen, resulting in root death and the plant’s rapid decline. Other indicators include:

• Stunted or slow growth with yellowing leaves
• Leaf scorch or leaf burn
• Edema (spots and blisters) may appear on stems and leaves
• The plant’s crown may quickly wither and rot

Note: Edema is a plant disorder caused by roots absorbing more water than the leaves can transpire (a common problem resulting from poor soil drainage). This excess water ruptures cells and appears as water-soaked patches turning corky and unsightly.

When soils are improperly managed, they can become compacted. This condition can occur during and after construction. Foot and vehicular traffic also compresses the soil pores and limits the oxygen and water that would otherwise move through the soil.

How Do I Know if My Soil is Well-Drained

Besides watching for pooling water and other symptoms, you can test and improve your soil by doing the following:

1 – Dig a hole about 12 inches wide and 12 inches deep
2 – Fill the hole with water
3 – After it completely drains, refill it with water and mark the time
4 – Note how long the water takes to drain

The water level in soil with excellent drainage should drop 1 to 2 inches per hour. Any longer, and you should take steps to improve the soil.

How to Improve Soil Drainage

Soil is composed of sand, silt, and clay particles varying in size. Sand has the largest particle size, and clay has the smallest. When soil contains large sand proportions, it has more pore space and is more sharply drained (similar to a sandy beach). Soil with high clay content has significantly less pore space. Reduced pore space slows water drainage and causes the soil to hold water for longer periods. Consider the following soil structure improvement methods:

Amend the Soil with Compost – Add organic matter to improve drainage in poorly drained soil. Organic matter, like compost, improves soil structure by increasing soil aggregation (soil aggregates are groups of soil particles). The space between these aggregates creates the space required for holding and exchanging air and water.

Spread compost 3 inches thick over the soil surface and work it into the top 10 inches of soil with a shovel, garden fork, or tillage.

Tip: Using a rototiller too frequently breaks down soil aggregates, defeating your soil improvement efforts.

Plant Cover Crops – Cover crops can help significantly improve soil drainage by increasing organic matter, and their roots help break apart or expand compacted soil. Some popular cover crop plant species include:

• Alfalfa (Medicago sativa)
• Buckwheat (Fagopyrum esculentum)
• Oat (Avena sativa)
• Winter Rye (Secale cereale)
• Crimson Clover (Trifolium incarnatum)
• Mustard (Brassica napus)

Cover crops are sometimes called “green manure” or “living mulch.” These species can add nitrogen to your soil, improve drainage, and boost fertility (without applying chemical fertilizers).

Aerate the Soil – Aerating can help relieve soil compaction. A core aerator removes soil plugs, leaving holes to loosen the soil, improving drainage, and getting air to roots.

Add Earthworms – Earthworms naturally and quickly improve soil pore size, water infiltration rate, water content, and water-holding capacity. Their burrowing tends to reach over 3 feet in depth, breaking up hardpans and promoting deep soil structure and aggregation.

Note: Soil with healthy earthworm populations drains up to 10 times faster than soil without them.

Well-Drained Soil

In this article, you discovered information defining well-drained soil, why it is essential to plant life, and how you can reverse poor soil drainage.

Recognizing when your soil is not draining properly will help you take prompt action to correct it and keep your plants, shrubs, and trees alive and thriving.

Your misunderstanding of soil drainage can lead to hydraulic failure in your landscape’s plant life, leaving you with diseased, declining, or dead plants, shrubs, and trees.

Sources:
agebb.missouri.edu/agforest/archives/v10n2/gh14.htm
missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems/environmental/overwatering
hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/testing-and-improving-soil-drainage
dpi.nsw.gov.au/agriculture/soils/guides/soil-biology/earthworms

This article was first published on: https://www.72tree.com/what-is-well-drained-soil/

What’s worse for trees and shrubs? Ice or snow? Think of it this way: snow can be gentle, while ice can be harsh. That about sums it up.

During the winter in New Jersey and elsewhere, conditions can range from temperate to downright freezing cold. When the thermometer reads below zero, you can bet your trees and shrubs are experiencing some shock and stress.

How Ice Storms Affect Trees and Shrubs

When ice storms come through town, what happens is this: a cold rain falls down on trees and shrubs. The temperature lowers. Then, that rain freezes as ice, sticking to the bark and branches. Ice is heavier than snow. Moreover, when ice is particularly heavy, guess what happens? Small branches break because they’re coated with heavy ice. All it takes is an ice coating of, say, a fraction of an inch, to do damage. Add to that a strong, mighty wind, and your trees and shrubs could end up losing a lot of branches and such.

For your knowledge, a branch is more likely to snap from ice if it’s already weak, isn’t growing upright, has a sharp angle, or if it has a layer of bark trapped in its joint. Furthermore, you can tell if you have a weak tree if it doesn’t have a single central stem (aka a “leader”) and/or its branching system is atypical.

To help protect your trees from ice damage, it’s best to prune them properly when they’re young, so they can grow up to be strong. For older trees that haven’t been attended to, a professional intervention might be needed to help correct imperfections. Someone who works with trees daily is likely to be able to tell you if a tree is diseased, weak, or stressed, and then offer some solutions to remedy problems.

Ice Damage on Shrubs

As for shrubs, ice can definitely weigh them down, more so than snow. It’s best to leave them alone, letting the ice melt as the temperature rises.

If you’re thinking of getting some new trees for your property in New Jersey, and you’d like some helpful advice on what to buy and what not to buy, call Big Foot Tree Service. Ask about the type of trees that are especially hardy and can withstand harsh New Jersey winters. Contact Big Foot Tree Service at 973-885-8000.

The post Is Ice Worse than Snow for Trees and Shrubs? appeared first on Big Foot Tree Service.

This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com

When it comes to gorgeous, long-lasting summer blossoms, there isn’t much that can compare to the prolific and lovely crape myrtle. The Crape Myrtle, or Lagerstroemia Lythracae, is a lovely class of flowering trees and shrubs of around 50 different species. Also known as loosestrife, the crape (or crepe) myrtle is a highly diverse plant. For instance, did you know that some are deciduous, others are evergreen, and they can range in size from barely a foot to over 100 feet tall? It’s true! The dwarf myrtle averages at around 3 feet, while the Lord Crepe Myrtle (pretty accurate name, if we don’t say) towers at around 34 meters or 111 feet! 

No matter the species, the crepe myrtle all come together in their highly desirable landscaping features. Features such as their gorgeous delicate frilly and rippled blooms, the peeling bark with the distinct texture that comes with it, and a color palette ranging from deep purple and lavender to ivory, gleaming white, light pink, magenta, and a deep red ensure that the crepe myrtle is a standout in any environment. 

Their native range is vast, and local species can be found from India to Asia and Indonesia to Australia. From as far North as Central China to the bottom of the world, you can find them just about anywhere! Not only that, but they’ve taken hold in the United States in a major way and can be found growing wild all throughout the nation.  

Yes, the crepe myrtle is an incredible and varied plant, perfect for your home and garden no matter what the style. But what do we need to do to ensure that our crape myrtle thrives? Well, that’s just what this reading is all about! Keep going to learn all about caring for your crepe myrtle. 

Uses of Crepe Myrtle 

Cultivated from California to Japan and everywhere in between, particularly in tropical and subtropical climates where the warm weather really lets them thrive and bloom as long as possible, the crepe myrtle is popular as a colorful hedge or a fantastically decorative privacy screen. Additionally, larger trees can make a really stunning focal point, and attention-grabbing spectacle no matter the landscape. Due to their incredible size diversity, certain species can even be cultivated in containers. 

Crape myrtles are cultivated worldwide, most often in tropical and subtropical climates where the warm weather helps them to thrive and show off their outstanding beauty. These plants are often used as colorful hedges or privacy screens, while larger plants make amazing focal points and eye-catching specimens in any landscape. Smaller varieties may even be grown in containers.

How to care for your crepe myrtle

Provided you live in the right climate, meaning anywhere from tropical to at least somewhat temperate, your crape myrtle is a fairly low-maintenance option for the amount of flair it can bring to your landscape or garden. However, it DOES require a few specific care points to really ensure those blossoms dazzle. Check out the following list to keep your crape myrtle in stunning form: 

• Place in Full Sunlight

Your crape myrtle wants at least 6 hours of full sunlight to thrive. Any less and blossoms won’t be as numerous, and their colors may be less vibrant than you would like. 

• Use Healthy and Proper Soil

You’ll be happy to know that the crape myrtle isn’t particularly demanding when it comes to regulating the ph of the soil. However, you’ll find they do best in neutral to a slightly acidic substrate. One tip to remember is that a crape myrtle should be planted in a well-draining area, however, as the plant is prone to root rot if left in too much water. 

• Lightly Fertilize 
• A slow-release fertilizer high in nitrogen will optimize your crape myrtle’s flowers and growth. Just make sure not to overfertilize with a choice that promotes leaf growth, or the green may push your flowers out of the picture! 

• Get Ahold of Fungus Early 
• It’s important to watch out for powdery mildew, as well as other fungal infections such as sooty mold. Treatment with a general fungicide can work wonders to avoid an infected plant. 

• Prune Lightly in Winter or Early Spring
• The crape myrtle is a new wood-blooming plant, so it’s important to prune in late winter or early spring in order to stimulate the flowering process. Be sure and remove tangled branches, suckers, and irregular shapes in order to optimize the form of your plant. 

• Optimize your crepe’s features by exposing the trunk. 
• The crape myrtle is a beautiful plant with distinctive peeling bark. This is a truly stunning feature, especially on the larger varietals. By pruning away lower branches on roughly the bottom 4-5 feet (depending on the size, of course) of the trunk, you can really unlock the potential of this delicate plant. 

• Deadhead to stimulate flower growth 
• You can stimulate flower growth in early-blooming varieties of crape myrtle via judicious deadheading, but remember that this will lead to a decrease in the second bloom. 

Call Red’s Tree Service for all arboreal needs! 

Crape myrtles are a stunning addition to any type of landscape, no matter if you are looking for a colorful hedge, an eye-catching specimen or just a chromatic burst of floral wonder to add to your yard. If you know how to properly care for these plants, then you can ensure that you have an amazing show of blooms all summer long. 

Red’s Tree Service has the best arborists available in and around Memphis and the surrounding areas, and we know just how to make your landscape pop. Call today to see how good your lawn and garden can look! 

This post first appeared on https://redstreeservice.com

Planning and looking for the best features to enhance your Marietta, Ga landscape? Understanding which landscape features work well together will help you design a yard that can significantly increase your home’s curb appeal and value.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered the following landscape design principles and features to help you create a stunning Marietta, Georgia, yard.

Landscape Design Principles

The following landscape design principles have been utilized by designers for centuries in all art forms, like painting, construction, landscape design, etc. Consider the following design principles when developing your Marietta, Georgia, front yard landscape concept:

Balance – Symmetrical balance is used in formal landscapes, in which each side mirrors the other. Asymmetrical balance, or informal balance, differs on either side and appears relaxing and free-flowing.

Focal Point – A landscape’s focal point is often a feature close to the front door to enhance the home’s entrance.

Proportion – Landscape design proportion considers building size, yard size, tree, shrub, plant size, and planted areas vs. open space.

Simplicity – Avoid a cluttered landscape by using too many (or clashing) colors, shapes, curves, and textures.

Rhythm – A rhythm is established when landscape features are repeated with standard intervals. Trees, plants, shrubs, stones, benches, or other elements can be repeated within the design to create rhythm.

The colors, shapes, sizes, textures, and other landscape features can easily create a beautifully unified front yard space.

Popular Landscape Features

Front yard landscaping design and its features define your home’s exterior. Your front yard is the most seen part of the property, greeting your guests and visitors before reaching the door and setting the tone for the rest of the house. Consider the following popular landscape features:

1. Front Yard Garden Space

Well-designed, multi-level garden areas showcase your gardening prowess with color, and variety, and when used as borders, can highlight other landscape features, like a pathway, driveway, specimen tree, pond, etc.

Tip: Reduce watering and care requirements by planting native plant species.

2. Landscape Lighting

Landscape lighting improves your home’s safety and security. Well-placed landscape lighting can enhance trees, gardens, and other features in your yard while illuminating a hard-to-see walkway, driveway, or raised steps.

Read more about landscape lighting and its ideal palcement at toddsmariettatreeservices.com/where-to-place-landscape-lighting

3. Front Yard Water Feature

Besides creating a focal point, a water feature provides individuality to your landscape. This occurs through the feature’s size, shape, color, design, and placement. Water features give movement to an otherwise still area with rushing water.

Note: Your fountain will attract birds, butterflies, and wildlife to your front yard.

4. Landscape Trees

Specimen trees are excellent front yard focal points while providing shade, offering leafy screens, or framing a picturesque view. A large specimen tree in a vast landscape can add structure and shape to the space.

Using trees for privacy screens helps seclude you from your neighbors’ wandering eyes while providing a lush, green landscape year-round (evergreen species), shielding your property from wind, and creating a beautifully shaded scenery.

Tip: Hire a professional tree service to provide seasonal pruning and care.

5. Front Yard Walkway

Installing a stone, brick, concrete, gravel, or paved walkway gives guests and visitors a sense of invitation. It simplifies getting to your front door (or other destination), which naturally increases your property’s curb appeal.

You can add visual value to your front yard walkway by bordering it with flowering plants, shrubs, and lighting.

Tip: When installing a walkway, consider applying a slip-resistant surface to avoid slips and injuries during watering cycles and wet weather.

Visualize Your Landscape Design

You can sketch your front yard landscape design by drawing the yard’s outline, penciling in any existing features, then adding any rocks, waterways, structures, slopes, etc. Consider the following app to help you formulate the perfect Marietta, Georgia, landscape design:

iScape – With iScape, you can create an accurate front yard digital model. The app will show you what featuring your favorite trees, shrubs, and plants looks like, so you can visualize the landscape design before beginning your project. The app is user-friendly and can insert objects, move them around, and more.

Landscape Features

In this article, you discovered essential information about landscape design principles, elements, and the value it adds to your home’s curb appeal and value.

Creating a stunning landscape design can add significant value to your home while adding to your neighborhood’s beauty and biodiversity.

Missing the simple but important landscaping features can result in reducing your home’s curb appeal and potential value.

Sources:
edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/MG086
extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C1032-3&title=drawing-a-landscape-plan-the-base-map
aces.edu/blog/topics/lawn-garden/residential-landscape-design/
canr.msu.edu/news/principles_of_landscape_design
gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/design/modern-design.html

For the original version of this article visit: http://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com/5-specimen-trees-for-your-marietta-georgia-yard/

Need help choosing standalone fruit trees for your Alpharetta, Georgia landscape? Knowing which fruit tree species self-pollinate will help you choose individual fruit-bearing trees that provide your Alpharetta, Georgia landscape with shade, beauty, and delicious fruit.

72tree.com gathered species and growing information for several self-fruiting trees hardy to Alpharetta, Georgia, landscapes.

What is a Self-Pollinating Fruit Tree?

Most fruit trees are self-sterile for their own pollen (requiring a second compatible tree and a pollen vector). However, self-pollinating fruit trees only need their pollen to self-fertilize and bear fruit, and they can be planted as a standalone tree. As the name suggests, these trees do not require pollen vectors (bees, flies, wasps, etc.). Consider the following self-pollinating fruit trees for your Alpharetta, Georgia, landscape:

1. Pomegranate (Punica granatum)

Pomegranates can be grown as large shrubs or small trees with smooth, evergreen leaves, and showy orange to red flowers. It produces rounded and seeded fruit with a dry outer covering.

Mature Size – Pomegranates reach 10 to 20 feet in height and have a 10 to 20-foot spread.
Soil Needs – This species thrives in loam, sandy, and clay well-draining soil with a 5.5 to 7.2 pH.
Sun Requirement – Full sun (minimum 6 hours daily)
Water Needs – Irrigate every 7 to 10 days during dry conditions. Pomegranate trees require approximately 60 inches of water annually.
Fruiting – Pomegranate trees typically produce a harvest two to three years after planting. Most varieties flower from spring into fall and fruits (set in March or April) will be ready for harvest between August and October.
Hardiness Zone – 7 through 10

2. Peach (Prunus persica)

Peach trees typically grow a rounded crown with upward-reaching branches draped in three to six-inch-long, dark green, deciduous leaves.

Mature Size – Peach trees reach 25 feet in height and have a 25-foot spread (when left unpruned).
Soil Needs – This species thrives in lightweight loamy, well-drained soil with a 6.0 to 6.8 pH.
Sun Requirement – Full sun (minimum 6 hours daily)
Water Needs – Irrigate daily with 35 – 40 gallons during summer months. Peach trees require approximately 36 inches of water annually.
Fruiting – Peach trees typically bear fruit 2 to 4 years after planting. A peach tree may bear fruit from June through August, with some species bearing fruit through September.
Hardiness Zone – 4 through 9

3. Apricot (Prunus armeniaca)

Apricot trees have an upright growth pattern with a broad canopy. The leaves are ovate with a rounded base, pointed tip, and serrated margin. The tree produces white to pink flowers and fleshy yellow to orange fruit. Apricots are self-pollinating, but planting two different varieties (blooming simultaneously) can result in a significantly larger harvest.

Mature Size – Full-size apricot trees reach 25 feet in height and have a 25-foot spread.
Soil Needs – This species thrives in loamy, well-drained soil with a 6.5 to 8.0 pH.
Sun Requirement – Full sun (minimum 6 hours daily)
Water Needs – Provide your apricot tree with an inch of water every ten to 12 days.
Fruiting – Apricot trees typically bear fruit 3 to 4 years after planting. Blooming in early spring only on two-year or older wood. Fruits ripen and should be harvested from June through August.
Hardiness Zone – 4 through 9

4. Fig (Ficus carica)

The common fig tree is a deciduous, multi-trunk tree with smooth, gray bark and a wide but low, open canopy. This species has large multi-lobed, showy, dark green leaves and produces small, inconspicuous flowers.

Mature Size – Fig trees reach 10 to 30 feet in height with a 20-foot spread.
Soil Needs – Figs prefer moist, well-drained, organically rich soil with a 6.0 to 7.5 pH.
Sun Requirement – Full sun (minimum 6 hours daily)
Water Needs – Fig trees need 1 to 1-1/2 inches of irrigated water or rainfall per week (minimum).
Fruiting – Most fig trees take three to five years before ripening fruit. Figs typically form on new stem growth each year and ripen from May through November.
Hardiness Zone – 8 through 10 (6 and 7 if protected)

5. Persimmon (Diospyros virginiana)

The common persimmon is a deciduous tree grown for its beautiful foliage and delicious fruit. When the fruit ripens, they range in color from yellow to red-orange.

Mature Size – Persimmon trees reach 35 to 60 feet in height with a 20 to 30-foot spread.
Soil Needs – Persimmon trees grow best in loamy, well-drained soil with a 6.0 to 6.5 pH.
Sun Requirement – Full sun (minimum 8 hours daily)
Water Needs – Water a persimmon tree for 10 minutes once or twice weekly in the spring and summer. Persimmon trees can withstand short drought periods.
Fruiting – Persimmons are a fall crop typically ripening from early fall through early winter. There are two primary varieties of persimmons (The astringent fruit is consumed when it becomes soft, and the non-astringent fruit is eaten while firm.
Hardiness Zone – 4 through 9

Self-Pollinating Fruit Trees

In this article, you discovered species and planting information for several self-pollinating fruit trees ideal for landscapes in Alpharetta, Georgia.

Knowing which self-pollinating trees to plant in your Alpharetta, Georgia landscape will help you grow magnificent shade trees that provide an abundant annual fruit harvest.

Avoid planting trees that require attention, pollination, or not knowing which self-pollinating species are most suitable for your Alpharetta yard.

Sources:
extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C997
sites.redlands.edu/trees/species-accounts/peach/
plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/prunus-armeniaca/
hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/fig/
missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=279917

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/5-self-pollinating-fruit-trees-for-alpharetta-georgia-landscapes/

Here at Red’s Tree Service of Memphis, we’re proud to be your locally owned and operated one-stop shop for all your tree-related needs. This includes keeping you informed about critical safety concerns, such as the signs of a dying tree. 

You may not realize it, but dead and dying trees can pose a severe safety hazard! In fact, research performed by the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) demonstrates that dead and dying trees pose a greater risk to human health and safety than sharks! It turns out that every year, falling trees kill more than 100 Americans. Sharks? Less than 5. 

So how do I know if I’m dealing with a dead or dying tree? Well, that’s just what the subject of today’s reading is all about. So read on to learn the signs of a dying tree, and ensure that your family and property stay safe! 

Signs of a Dying Tree 

When it comes to identifying sick or dying trees, there are plenty of tell-tale signs if you know what to look for. For example: 

Sticks all over the ground 

A healthy tree has flexible twigs and branches that are less likely to break. It isn’t normal for a healthy tree to shed sticks at such a rate that you notice them all over the place! If your tree doesn’t exhibit signs of green wood in its branches, you can be sure something is wrong and should take action immediately. 

Bark Peeling 

Although different species of trees will exhibit varying degrees of peeling in bark, one sign that something is wrong is the excessive shedding of the outer protective layer of the tree. If you notice lots of peeling bark, then the tree isn’t getting enough nutrients. Similar to human skin, problems in the bark can indicate much bigger problems. 

 The Presence of Rot and Fungus 

Nothing is more of a surefire sign of a dying tree than considerable rot and fungus. There are numerous types of rot, all of which require intervention to save the tree in many cases. Different tree rot types include Brown Rot, the most severe form of tree rot, and causes the tree to dry up and literally crumble away. White Rot, while also very serious, causes the tree to feel excessively moist and spongy instead. 

Regarding fungal infections, Rhytisma acerinum and R. punctatum are the most common in the United States. Both appear most often in late spring and early summer, and both are characterized by black tar-like raised structures on the upper surface of leaves appearing alongside yellow spots.

Leaning 

A leaning tree will often have some underlying structural issue that indicates poor health. Unless you know this tree grew at an angle, you should take action immediately to avoid catastrophic damage from an imminent fall. 

Open Wounds 

While trees respond well to careful cutting and trimming, a large open wound in a tree, like that caused by excessive storm damage or lightning, can weaken and eventually kill the tree. 

That’s not all – Give us a Call! 

Thanks for taking the time to learn more about tree health and safety. The signs of a dying tree are numerous and should never be ignored, so if you have any questions or concerns, please give us a call. We employ a trained and certified arborist who is an expert in tree health and can often save your tree with various interventions. If removal is required or desired, rest easy knowing that Red’s has operated in the Memphis area for over 40 years. We only employ the highest quality professionals to give our customers the best service.

We look forward to hearing from you! 

This post first appeared on https://redstreeservice.com

Prevent your trees from rapid decline and death when wood-boring insects attack. Knowing how to control wood-boring insects will help you keep your Marietta, Georgia, trees healthy and thriving.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered wood-boring insect species, identification, and control information to help you keep your Marietta, Georgia, trees safe.

Wood-Boring Insects

Wood-boring insects include a range of arthropods that cause damage to trees and wooden structures. This group of insects features an array of insect species at different life cycle stages (from larvae to adults). Wood-boring insects are seen as pests due to the potentially severe damage they cause in urban and rural areas.

Wood-Boring Insect Control

Systemic insecticides applied via trunk injection, bark sprays, or as a soil drench are effective against flathead borers and may be the only practical method for treating tall trees. Popular systemic insecticides include:

• Bonide Systemic Granules
• Mighty Mint Insect and Pest Control
• Natria Neem Oil Spray

Tip: Apply a systemic insecticide for trees when it is in the growing season.

Contact pesticides control wood-boring insects when they come in direct contact with the pest. Systemic insecticides are absorbed by and transported through plant tissue. Such products can render some or all of a plant toxic to insects that feed on it. Some common contact insecticides are:

• Pyrethroids (bifenthrin and permethrin)
• Chlorantraniliprole
• Imidacloprid
• Dinotefuran
• Emamectin benzoate
• Azadirachtin

Note: Each state has its own standards regarding pesticide use. Make sure you can legally use a pesticide before applying it to your tree(s).

Tip: Hire a professional tree service to treat your trees and alert regional representatives of any potential widespread infestations.

Wood-Boring Insect Species

Wood or tree borers could be bark beetles, twig pruners, or flat-headed borers, among other species. All boring insects are a hazard to a tree’s health, surrounding structures, and people. Consider the following species information:

1. Bark Beetles (Scolytinae)

Bark beetles tunnel under tree bark, cutting off its supply of food and water needed to survive. Bark beetles can kill a mature tree in two to four weeks during warmer months.

Identification – Bark beetle adults are tiny, cylindrical, hard-bodied insects about the size of a rice grain.
Tree Damage – Some trees slowly fade in color from green to brown, while others may die within a few weeks of infestation (these trees may not show signs of chlorosis, fading, or decline for several months.
Control Method(s) – If trees are infested, prune and dispose of bark beetle-infested limbs. If the tree’s trunk is extensively infested, the entire tree should be removed.

Note: The only effective treatment for bark beetles is preventative.

Vulnerable Tree Species: Bark beetles are attracted to tree species that are stressed, diseased, or injured.

2. Twig and Branch Pruners (Elaphidionoides and Agrilus species)

This insect is considered a secondary invader of trees in decline. The twig pruner attacks healthy twigs and small branches (the female lays an egg in the bark, and when the eggs hatch, the legless grubs bore into the twig). Mature larvae chew concentric cuts outward in the white wood without chewing through the bark. The infested branch eventually drops to the ground with the larva inside.

Identification – The twig pruner is a slender grayish-yellow, long-horned beetle about ½ inch long.
Tree Damage – Twig and branch pruner larvae feed beneath the bark, girdling twigs and branches.
Control Method(s) – Pick up and destroy any detached twigs. The insect’s life cycle is completed inside these fallen twigs. Eliminating the litter interrupts the twig pruner’s life cycle, so they never have a chance to mature and reproduce.

Vulnerable Tree Species:

• Hickory (Carya)
• Maple (Acer)
• Oak (Quercus)
• Pecan (Carya illinoinensis)
• Redbud (Cercis canadensis)
• Elm (Ulmus)

3. Bronze Birch Borer (Agrilus anxius)

The bronze birch borer is found throughout birch ranges in the US and Canada. It attacks and breeds in birch trees but has been spotted in beech and aspen stands.

Identification – Bronze birch borers are ¼ to ½ inch long, slender, dark iridescent, and bronze colored.
Tree Damage – Signs of this insect include off-color and thinning foliage in a birch’s upper canopy, dead branches in the upper crown, and swollen ridges on the tree’s trunk and branches.
Control Method(s) – Between May and June, you can spray infested trees with horticultural oil, permethrin, or bendiocarb to kill hatching larvae and adults emerging from the bark and feeding on leaves.

Vulnerable Tree Species:

• Paper birch
• Yellow birch
• Gray birch
• Western birch
• Water birch
• Sweet birch

4. Emerald Ash Borer (Agrilus planipennis) (EAB)

The emerald ash borer (Agrilus planipennis or EAB) is an invasive wood-boring beetle. Despite their color and appearance, these beetles are difficult to spot in the wild!

Identification – Adult EABs are bright, metallic green, with red metallic abdominal segments beneath their wing covers. This beetle is about ½ inch long and 1/8 inch wide with a flattened back.
Tree Damage – Larvae feed on the inner bark of ash trees from early summer to mid-fall, causing hydraulic failure and death. Infested native ash trees are all susceptible to attack.
Control Method(s) – When caught in an infestation’s early stages, emerald ash borer can be controlled by using systemic insecticides that are taken into the tree and move to areas where they can kill adults (leaves) or the flathead borer larvae (cambium).

Vulnerable Tree Species: In North America, all ash tree species can be attacked by EAB.

5. Carpenter Ants (Camponotus)

Carpenter ants get their common name because they excavate decayed wood to build their nests. Their excavation results in smooth tunnels inside wood. Similar to termites, this excavation activity can severely compromise a tree’s structural soundness.

Identification – Carpenter ants are about a half-inch long and completely black with yellowish hairs on the abdomen.
Tree Damage – This species does not eat wood; they only tunnel and chew through it to create nests. Typically, these ants burrow into trees already compromised by disease, softening their hardwood and facilitating the insect infestation.
Control Method(s) – A soap and water mixture is toxic to carpenter ants. Mix one part dish soap with two parts water in a spray bottle. Spray this mixture on the ants and around their nesting site as needed to kill them and eliminate their pheromone trails. Continue treating problem areas until the ants no longer return.

Vulnerable Tree Species: Any tree species compromised by a fungal infection.

Tip: Some insects are affected and can be contained without toxic checmicals, so read the following to learn how to make homeade bug spray.

Wood-Boring Insects in Marietta, Georgia

In this article, you discovered essential species, identification, and control information on several wood-boring insects adversely affecting Marietta, Georgia’s tree population.

Knowing how to identify wood-boring insects and control them will help you preserve your trees while keeping these insects from spreading unhindered.

Ignoring the need to control wood-boring insects can lead to the rapid decline and death of trees, potentially causing catastrophic damage when they topple.

Sources:
entomology.ca.uky.edu/ent43
xerces.org/systemic-insecticides-reference-and-overview
extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/insects/insecticides-used-to-control-emerald-ash-borer-on-residential-shade-trees-5-626/
emeraldashborer.info/faq.php
content.ces.ncsu.edu/twig-pruner
readyforwildfire.org/forest-health/bark-beetle-information/about-bark-beetles/

For the original version of this article visit: http://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com/how-to-control-wood-boring-insects-in-marietta-georgia-trees/

Keep treatable diseases from infecting and killing your pine trees. Recognizing the signs of disease and taking action to stop them will help you keep your pine trees robust and stable.

72tree.com gathered the following information and tips about pine tree disease signs, treatments, and prevention.

Pine Tree Disease

In years with heavy rainfall or severe drought, pine trees may brown in response. Browning is typically caused by the pine tree’s inability to uptake sufficient water to keep its needles fresh and alive. When moisture is overly abundant (and drainage is poor), root rot and other diseases are often the culprits. Consider the following pine tree diseases:

1. Annosus Root Disease (Heterobasidion annosum)

Heterobasidion annosum is a basidiomycete fungus in the Bondarzewiaceae family. It is considered one of the most economically damaging forest pathogens in the Northern Hemisphere. Heterobasidion annosum is widespread in US forests and is responsible for $1 billion in annual pine tree losses.

Appearance – In some cases, resin flow may appear near the root collar as the tree attempts to defend itself against attack. Diseased pines may show crown thinning and yellowing. In pine trees, the disease is most active in the sapwood, killing tissues and heartwood as it progresses.
Treatment – Carefully remove and destroy infected trees and stumps. Any stumps left in the ground should be treated with borax.
Prevention – This disease typically enters a pine tree stand when spores land on freshly cut limbs or stump surfaces. The fungus grows from the stump into nearby live trees via root grafts or contacts. For prevention, treat stumps with borax whenever thinning in a high-hazard area.

2. Diplodia Tip Blight (Sphaeropsis sapinea)

Diplodia blight, previously called Sphaeropsis tip blight, is a common fungal disease of stressed conifers, most typically pines with needles in bunches of 2’s and 3’s.

Appearance – Needles of new shoots will remain stunted, turn straw-colored, and will be glued in place from excess resin. Mature needles on branches end up killed by girdling cankers. Sticky, clear-to-white resin is found on dead twigs, the main stem, or branches with cankers.
Treatment – If you previously had problems with Diplodia, consider applying fungicides as the candles are expanding and then two more applications at 2-week intervals (bud break, half candle, and full candle). This typically prevents any spores from being disseminated from infecting the tree’s succulent new growth.
Prevention – Proper tree care, including increased irrigation during drought, pruning, and equipment sanitation are often effective methods for control of Diplodia tip blight and canker, especially when pines are newly infected.

3. Dothistroma Needle Blight (Dothistroma septosporum)

Pine trees of all ages can become infected. Symptoms are typically first seen at the base of the crown on older needles. Infected needles develop yellow and tan spots and bands, which soon turn red. As the disease progresses, the ends of the needles turn reddish-brown while the needle base oddly remains green.

Appearance – Reddish brown spots or bands appear on needles in the fall. Needle spots girdle the pine’s needles. The needle beyond the band dies and turns brown, leaving the bottom portion of the needle green. Tiny black fungal fruiting bodies will appear in the bands or the needle’s dead areas.
Treatment – A copper fungicide spray is an effective method to prevent needle cast. Other useful fungicides are chlorothalonil and mancozeb.
Prevention – If your trees have a history of Dothistroma needle blight, copper fungicides can protect new needles from infection. Fungicides need to be applied before buds open in the spring.

4. Fusiform Rust (Cronartium quercuum)

Fusiform rust is caused by a curious fungus that produces five spore stages and requires an oak and a pine tree to complete its life cycle.

Appearance – Fusiform rust is caused by Cronartium quorum f. sp. fusiforme. It produces bright orange spores on southern yellow pines, especially loblolly pine, in springtime.
Treatment – Avoid planting any rust susceptible pine tree species in locations where fusiform rust is or has been an issue. Pruning branch cankers and completely removing diseased branches can help lower potential trunk infection. However, once the trunk is infected, branch pruning is no longer recommended (careful tree removal and destruction is).
Prevention – Disease prevention is best accomplished by planting resistant pine species and treating all oak trees growing anywhere in the vicinity of your pine trees.

5. Needle Rust (Chrysomyxa ledicola Logerh)

Pine or spruce needle rust is easily identified by pale, white, or orange blisters appearing on infected needles (in summertime). White blisters will appear on the current year’s needle growth.

Appearance – Yellow-to-orange spots or bands appear on green needles in spring. In late spring to early summer, tiny, raised, white tubes form on needles breaking open to release powdery, orange spores. These infected needles can remain attached to the tree for several years.
Treatment – Needle rust is considered a minor stress on pine trees and typically requires no management efforts. However, when necessary, the most efficient rust disease control is to carefully prune and destroy affected areas and remove any visible galls (abnormal growths) in late winter or early spring before they can produce spores.
Prevention – Follow these best practices to help prevent spruce needle rust:

• Redirect lawn sprinklers away from pine branches and needles.
• Plant your spruce trees far enough apart to allow good air circulation between them.
• Prune out and destroy wilted or blighted stems and branches.

Note: In most cases, pine needle rust is a cosmetic issue, and no management is needed.

Pine Tree Disease Control

In this article, you discovered essential information and pro tips on identifying, treating, and preventing several pine tree diseases.

Knowing how to identify, control, and prevent deadly pine tree diseases will help you keep your pine trees thriving while stopping these diseases from spreading across your landscape.

Failing to recognize signs of diseased pine trees will lead to their death, potentially causing catastrophic damages and life-threatening injury when they fall.

Sources:
tfsweb.tamu.edu/uploadedFiles/TFSMain/Manage_Forest_and_Land/Forest_Health/Stewardship/Annosum_Root_Disease.pdf
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5299327.pdf
extension.umn.edu/plant-diseases/diplodia-shoot-blight-and-canker
forestry.ces.ncsu.edu/2017/04/so-what-is-the-orange-stuff-on-my-pine-trees/
extension.psu.edu/spruce-needle-rust

Photo Credit: craven.ces.ncsu.edu

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/5-pine-tree-diseases-and-treatments/