Chlorosis in Trees

Prevent your chlorotic trees from further decline and death. Knowing how to recognize chlorosis in trees and reverse it will help you keep them growing and thriving.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered information on what chlorosis is, its causes, its symptoms, and how to treat it.

What is Chlorosis?

Chlorosis is the paling, lightening, or yellowing of foliage tissue. This condition occurs when a tree’s capacity to manufacture chlorophyll (needed for photosynthesis) is reduced or interrupted. A tree’s foliage can no longer produce the food it requires to grow and thrive when in a chlorotic state.

What Causes Chlorosis?

Foliar chlorosis can occur for several or multiple reasons. The following are among the most common:

Poor Soil Drainage – When the soil retains too much water, it can cause tree roots to stop absorbing vital nutrients. This condition may also lead to root rot and the death of the tree.

Compacted Soil – Foot, mechanical, and vehicular traffic around a tree’s root plate can cause soil compaction. This condition leaves the soil void of oxygen and moisture and generally leads to root and tree death.

Root Damage – When roots are damaged by digging activities or surface roots are damaged by mechanical and/or maintenance equipment, those roots may fail or become diseased. This condition can lead to the rapid decline and death of the tree.

Soil Alkalinity – When soil pH rises above 7.0, the soil becomes alkaline. It can no longer facilitate the absorption of iron and other nutrients required for robust photosynthesis. Ideally, a soil pH of 5.0 to 6.5 should be maintained.

Iron, Manganese, or Zinc Deficiencies – Of these deficiencies, iron is the most common cause of chlorosis. You can determine which of these deficiencies is causing chlorosis by observing which foliage became chlorotic first:

• Iron deficiencies cause younger or terminal leaves to become chlorotic first, then work inward to older or more mature foliage.
• Manganese and zinc deficiencies begin on the older leaves and then move outward.

Insufficient iron availability in the soil is the likely culprit in the absence of other chlorosis causes.

Disease – When a vascular tree disease invades the cambium (xylem and phloem layers beneath the bark), it can rapidly multiply, causing blockages of nutrient flows between the roots and canopy. This reduced transmission of water and nutrients can cause chlorosis, tree decline, and death. Some of those diseases include:

• Dutch Elm Disease
• Verticillium Wilt
• Oak Wilt
• Bacterial Leaf Scorch

These “wilt” diseases cause a tree’s canopy to become chlorotic, then wilted, then necrotic (dead). In many instances, such disease can kill a healthy tree within a single growing season.

Insect Infestation – Boring insects burrow beneath tree bark, creating galleries in the cambium layer or the tree’s heartwood. This activity results in the partial or complete girdling of the tree and/or the introduction of fungi leading to disease. Some of the boring insects responsible for this are:

• Clearwing Borers (day-flying, wasp-like moths)
• Emerald Ash Borer
• Bronze Birch Borer
• Bark Beetle
• Mountain Pine Beetle
• Ambrosia Beetle (named after the fungi it introduces to its host)
• Ips
• Twig Girdlers

Boring insects generally attack trees already in distress or decline. However, when beetle populations are in great numbers, they will attack healthy specimens. When these insects, or the disease they bring, cause enough damage, the tree canopy will first appear chlorotic, then wilted, and finally necrotic.

Note: In many cases, disease and insect infestations move quickly enough to wilt green foliage and kill the tree without showing signs of chlorosis.

Chlorosis Symptoms

Symptoms of chlorosis are generally the same among all tree species. Chlorosis is another way of expressing the yellowing of tree foliage, referring to light green or yellow leaves or needles rather than a healthy dark green. Frequently, leaf veins remain dark green while the rest of the leaf turns a contrasting lighter green or yellow.

Chlorosis Treatments

Many of the following treatments or solutions take time to correct the problem you are experiencing. In some cases, you may have to strongly consider removing the tree to protect the surrounding landscape. When your tree(s) become chlorotic, the following will help you develop a treatment strategy beyond foliar nutrient sprays and other temporary solutions:

Poor Soil Drainage – Most soil drainage issues occur when your soil is disproportionately composed of clay. You can improve soil drainage by:

• Slightly reducing your watering schedule
• Carefully tilling organic material (compost or wood chips) into your soil
• Maintaining fresh mulch around the root plate
• Increasing soil biodiversity by adding earthworms

Note: Tilling sandy soil with your organic material may speed up the betterment of your soil.

Compacted Soil – Even though they occur under different circumstances, compacted soil can be improved using the same treatment used to improve poor soil drainage.

Root Damage – Damaged roots should be cleaned and observed over time. In many cases, roots will compartmentalize damages and recover well. Consider the following:

• If damaged roots soften or become mushy, contact an arborist to evaluate your tree’s health.
• Consider raising the soil level to cover and protect any surface roots.
• If multiple roots have been damaged or severed from digging activities, call a professional to help you take corrective measures (if such measures are possible).

Root damage may require multiple growing seasons for the tree to fully recover. Be vigilant and patient.

Soil Alkalinity – Soil tests can be performed to determine soil pH and nutrient composition. Based on your soil test, you can adjust soil pH by amending agricultural sulfur (powdered sulfur, aluminum sulfate, or iron sulfate) to lower the soil pH, making it more acidic.

Iron, Manganese, or Zinc Deficiencies – Nutrient deficiencies may occur naturally and over time. Such deficiencies can be corrected as follows:

• Fix an iron deficiency by applying a chelated iron fertilizer, in which iron is combined with a chemical called a chelate that helps the iron remain in a plant-deliverable form.
• Fix a Manganese deficiency by liming your soil to the proper pH level for the tree. This is the most practical way to correct and prevent problems with Manganese. Using acid-forming fertilizers in the soil can increase the uptake of this and other essential micronutrients.
• Fix a zinc deficiency by adding zinc to the soil along with compost and/or other organic matter to sandy soil.

Disease – Disease management often requires multi-faceted approaches to help your tree overcome a vascular disease. Since extensive pruning and chemical treatments may be necessary, it is recommended to hire an ISA certified arborist to help you apply specific treatments safely.

Even with the most aggressive treatments, a diseased tree may need to be removed before the responsible pathogen spreads to neighboring trees.

Insect Infestation – Much like disease management, managing insect infestations requires multiple approaches to prevent tree decline and death. Consider the following:

• Set traps to capture adult insects
• Apply insecticides to infested trees coinciding with the pest’s emergence
• Apply chemical deterrents to unaffected trees
• Work to increase the health and vigor of your trees

Note: Treating an insect infestation must include discovering what left the tree weakened, allowing the infestation to occur.

Tip: Boring insect infestations should be communicated to a tree professional immediately. Like the emerald ash borer, many of these insects are closely watched due to their destructive nature and management difficulty.

Tree Foliage Chlorosis

In this article, you discovered information about chlorosis, what causes it in trees, the symptoms to watch for, and how to treat the condition.

By knowing how to identify chlorotic tree foliage, you can take swift action to discover and correct its cause.

You may be allowing disease or infestation to spread unchecked by ignoring chlorosis, resulting in catastrophic widespread tree damage and death.

Sources:
mortonarb.org/trees-plants/tree-and-plant-advice/horticulture-care/chlorosis
forestry.usu.edu/trees-cities-towns/tree-care/preventing-iron-chlorosis
ag.ndsu.edu/publications/lawns-gardens-trees/iron-chlorosis-in-trees
hyg.ipm.illinois.edu/pastpest/200611c.html
web.extension.illinois.edu/focus/index.cfm?problem=chlorosis
entomology.ca.uky.edu/ent43
extension.umd.edu/hgic/topics/root-damage

Don’t let root rot cause your trees to suddenly decline, die, and fall. Knowing how to identify root rot symptoms will help you save your tree or take action before it causes catastrophic property damages.

72tree.com gathered information on the causes of root rot in trees, how to recognize its symptoms, and what treatments you can use to stop or prevent it.

Tree Root Rot Causes

When root rot attacks a tree, the flow of water and nutrients from the roots to the crown is either impeded, or the invading pathogen is carried throughout the tree, killing its host. The following are several of those pathogens:

Rhizoctonia (this fungal pathogen adversely affects younger hosts, older trees are found to be more resistant)

Pythium (this fungus of the Pythiaceae family has 140 known species, most of which are now classified as parasites)

Rhododendron Root Rot (Phytophthora cactorum and Phytophthora cinnamomi were first thought to only survive in subtropical countries but is now known to thrive in cooler countries)

Fusarium (found worldwide, some of this pathogen’s species can adversely affect humans when infected crops are consumed)

Rosellinia necatrix (Dematophora necatrix, Hypoxylon necatrix, and Pleurographium necator, known as one of the most devastating plant fungal diseases, affecting several fruit tree and crop species)

Honey Fungi, Shoestring Root Rot, or Openky (Armillaria frequently occurs in hardwoods and pines)

Texas Root Rot (Phymatotrichopsis, Phymatotrichum, Cotton, or Ozonium root rot occurs more frequently in Mexico and the southwestern United States, causing sudden wilt and death)

Note: Fungal spores naturally occur and lie dormant in soil. These spores only begin reproducing when conditions support it. Such conditions include compacted soil, poorly-drained soil, and overwatering. As the fungi reproduce, tree roots provide a prime source of nutrients, allowing them to spread quickly.

Symptoms of Tree Root Rot

Most visible symptoms of root rot strikingly resemble the signs of an advanced pest infestation, making an accurate diagnosis more difficult. The most common, above ground, symptoms of root rot include:

• Gradual or sudden decline without a detectible reason
• Severely stunted or poor growth patterns
• Smaller, chlorotic leaves or needles (new growth)
• Wilted, yellowed, or browned leaves or needles
• Dieback
• Severe canopy thinning
• Stress crops (abnormally large amount of fruit/seeds)
• Fungal fruiting structures (mushrooms) found on the root flare or growing from surface roots
• Once in the xylem and phloem (cambium), cankers or sunken dead areas may appear on branches or the trunk of the host

A more accurate way to diagnose root rot is to dig to the roots to see if decay is present. Care should be taken when exposing roots to avoid inflicting further harm to the tree.

Note: Anthracnose is another group of fungal pathogens that cause similar above-ground tree damage but are not typically associated with root rot. You can find further information about anthracnose at 72tree.com/symptoms-of-anthracnose/

Tip: Hire an ISA certified arborist to inspect and accurately diagnose the cause(s) of the symptoms you have identified.

Tree Root Rot Treatment

Trees can sometimes be saved early on by pruning out infected roots. If a tree is in an advanced state of decline, the recommended way to control root rot diseases from spreading is to entirely remove it.

Chemical treatments that include propiconazole, chloropicrin, fosetyl-aluminum, or methyl bromide, among others, won’t completely cure or remove the disease but can reduce the infection level. These treatments are applied in and around the root plate of infected trees and especially in holes left after infected trees, and their stumps have been removed.

Note: The application of chemical treatments on your trees (for any reason) should be performed as directed on the product labeling and closely monitored by a certified arborist.

Root Rot Prevention for Trees

Trees have adapted over millennia to protect themselves against infection and illness. They are efficient at protecting themselves when healthy, and you can further assist them in resisting root rot by:

• Avoiding overwatering
• Ensuring proper water drainage by amending/enriching soil structure
• Preventing soil compaction on or around the root plate
• Protecting surface roots and trunks from mechanical and/or equipment damage
• Immediately addressing storm damage and/or soil erosion
• Removing unsalvageable trees from your property
• Planting disease-resistant species

Tip: You can also help trees fight fungal attacks by promoting their health. These are some of the things you can do to improve their health:

• Seasonal pruning
• Seasonally applying and refreshing organic mulch
• Deep watering (especially during drought conditions)
• Pre-growing season fertilization
• Annual tree inspections by a certified arborist

Note: The importance of annual tree inspections cannot be overstated. The ability to detect problems in their beginning stages offers more options to eliminate existing problems and take measures to prevent issues throughout the tree’s growing season.

Tree Root Rot

In this article, you discovered valuable information about the causes of tree root rot, recognizing its symptoms, and how to treat it or prevent it.

Taking swift action when root rot is suspected in your trees will increase your chances of saving them and preventing further infection.

Ignoring the signs of root rot will render your tree unsalvageable, invite other disease and infestation, and potentially cause catastrophic property damage when your tree destabilizes and falls.

Sources:
extension.umd.edu/hgic/topics/root-rots-trees-and-shrubs
ceventura.ucanr.edu/Com_Ag/Subtropical/Avocado_Handbook/Diseases/Root_rot,_how_to_spot_it_and_what_to_do_about_it/
forestpathology.org/root-diseases/
extension.psu.edu/rhizoctonia
hyg.ipm.illinois.edu/pastpest/199922c.html

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/tree-root-rot-causes-symptoms-treatments/

There’s a reason we all love the striking colors of fall foliage. The mosaic of reds, gold, and yellows is one of nature’s most remarkable displays, but even the most beautiful leaves will eventually fall. When too many accumulate in your yard, they can smother the lawn and keep it from growing. They can also attract pests. To avoid these problems, you may end up having to spend hours raking and bagging fallen leaves. While you can’t altogether avoid this chore, these leaf-raking tips from the tree pros at Red’s Tree Service can make the process faster and more efficient so you can enjoy those perfect Mid-South fall days.

Use the Right Rake 

There are a couple of things to consider when picking out a rake. You want a rake that is both comfortable to use and effective. Narrow rakes don’t gather as many leaves at a time, and the chore will take you much longer than necessary. Also, look for rakes labeled “no-clog.” These have angled tines that won’t pierce the leaves and create blockages.

If you can’t keep a good posture while you’re raking, you’ll become tired and sore. You could even injure your back. Plus, you’ll have to rake more often since you can’t do it as long. To avoid this, choose the right rake for your body. Before you buy your rake, make sure it feels good to use.

Wait for Leaves to Falling

Don’t bother raking every time a new batch of leaves falls. Wait until your trees are practically bare before taking on the job. 

Save Time With Tarps 

If the thought of filling small bags from a large pile of leaves over and over again sounds agonizing, consider raking your leaves on to a lightweight tarp. You can then tie the ends of the tarp together to take the leaves to a community collection center. Or, you can roll the tarp into a cylinder and funnel the leaves into your bags much more efficiently. 

Rake Before it Rains 

If rain is in the forecast, don’t put off raking that carpet of leaves you’ve meant to get around do. After a rainstorm, fallen leaves become soggy and dense, clumping together and clogging rakes, vacuums, and leaf blowers. All of this will make the task much more of a headache. 

Make Sure You’re Comfortable 

Comfort may not be the first thing on your mind when it comes to household chores, but it’s not something you should overlook for labor-intensive projects. Fallen leaves are dry and dusty, and the particles that raking, mowing, and leaf blowing stir up can irritate your eyes, sinuses, and irritate exposed skin. The dust is especially significant if you have allergies or asthma. Wearing a dust mask will keep you comfortable and safe, and a long-sleeved shirt and long pants can protect your skin. 

It’s also smart to wear durable work gloves, especially if you don’t do this repetitive motion often. Raking can cause painful blisters on unprotected hands. Remember to stand up straight and switch your leading hand to prevent fatigue and injury. 

And, of course, know your personal limits. There’s no need to rush through the job and wear yourself out. You’ll have several weeks to rake, so stop when you feel tired. 

Mulch While You Mow

If you only have a few fallen leaves in your yard, you can get rid of them while mulching your lawn at the same time. Just mow over the leaves. If your lawnmower has a mulch setting, even better. The blades will chop the dry leaves into small flakes that will quickly decompose and add nutrients to your lawn. 

Rake Small Piles to Bag 

If a kid or kid at heart has been looking forward to playing in a big pile of leaves, it’s best to bag or remove the leaves right away. Otherwise, a gust of wind can undo all your hard work. If you’re planning on bagging the leaves, rake into piles about the size of the bag. This will also make it easier to take breaks when you’re tired because you aren’t leaving anything undone. 

Use Leaf Blowers and Vacuums 

Leaf blowers and vacuums can do a lot of your work for you. As the name suggests, a leaf blower can significantly reduce the time you spend raking if you use it correctly. Start by sectioning out the yard and establishing a grid pattern, then work the leaf blower back and forth in rows. Make sure you aren’t too close or too far from the leaves. It can take a little time to get your technique just right, but it can be worth it in the long run. 

You may also consider investing in a yard vacuum with a built-in shredder. The vacuum sucks up the leaves and then chops them up into small pieces, so you don’t need to use as many bags. Yard vacuums also make it easier to pick up leaves under shrubs, between bushes, on top of stone or mulch, and in other places where raking can be tricky.

Some leaf blowers include a vacuum or mulch setting, so you get the best of both tools. You can use the chewed-up leaves from using the mulch setting to make leaf mold, an all-natural, nutrient-rich mulch-type dressing to replace store-bought mulch.

Plan Your Grid 

If you put all of your leaves in a central location, you’ll waste a lot of time and energy running back and forth. Instead, plan a raking grid by separating your lawn into sections and raking each section row by row. Using a grid pattern makes it easier to have a perfectly clean lawn. 

Let The Wind Work for You

Breezy fall weather may seem like a hindrance to your leaf raking, but you can actually use it to your advantage. Rake in the same direction the wind is blowing, and the gusts will help move the dry leaves along. If you rake against the wind, you’ll have to work twice as hard as the leaves blow back the way you came. 

If you found these leaf-raking tips helpful, contact Red’s Tree Service for more tree care tips or services that require the experience of a professional.

This post first appeared on https://redstreeservice.com

Prevent your live Christmas tree from becoming hazardous or catching fire as it dries out. Knowing how to keep your cut Christmas tree fresh through the holidays will keep your home cheery and holiday spirit safe.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered information on how to select, care for, set up, and eventually dispose of your live Christmas tree.

Fresh Christmas Trees

The first measure of care for your live Christmas tree is selecting a fresh, vibrant tree. Consider the following when looking for the perfect tree:

• The tree’s needles must be fresh and resilient. Gently hold one of the branches about six inches in from the tip. Then, between your forefinger and thumb, pull your hand in so the branch slides between your fingers. Needles shouldn’t snap or fall off the tree. If they do, move on to the next one.
• Lift the tree and lightly bounce it on the ground to ensure needles are firmly attached all around the tree. Check for any needles falling off. A tree is considered fresh if only a couple of needles come off after being bounced.
• The tree should have a vibrant green color and a pleasant fragrance to it.
• Fresh trees have more moisture and are therefore more fragrant with firmer needles, provided they are kept cool, out of the sun, and in stands with fresh water.
• Limbs of the tree should be sturdy enough to hold your decorations and lights.

Note: Even if you cut down your own tree, you should take the time to verify its freshness and resilience before making the cut. Drought, disease, and infestation can cause a pine tree to dry out or become brittle.

Tip: When you search for the perfect tree, take along one or two of your heaviest ornaments. Hang them on a limb to “measure” the limbs’ sturdiness.

How to Keep a Christmas Tree Alive

Before taking your tree indoors, you can give it the best possible chance of surviving the holiday season by addressing the following:

Tree Location – Go to the intended location of the tree and make sure that:

• The tree will not be near any heat sources (fireplace, televisions, radiator, etc.)
• There are no heating/AC vents directed at the location
• There is enough space so the tree can stand without touching any surrounding walls
• The location has “low to no” traffic
• The tree will be in a cool and shaded location
• Outlets can be easily reached

Note: In smaller homes with limited space, select a smaller live tree or use an artificial tree.

Tree Preparation – Before taking your tree indoors, there are three things to do:

1. Vigorously shake or bounce the tree to remove any loose needles
2. Cut a 1/2” disc from the bottom of the tree trunk
3. Attach the tree stand with a water reservoir (minimum 1-quart capacity)

Tip: The tree trunk base should be submerged in water as quickly as possible after being cut. Waiting too long may result in the tree naturally “sealing” the wound, preventing it from taking up water.

Tree Watering – There are multiple myths and numerous concoctions regarding what a tree needs to stay fresh. However, if you have prepared the tree’s location and freshly cut the trunk base, plain tap water will help the tree stay fresh and vibrant. Consider the following:

1. The reservoir of your tree stand should hold at least a gallon of water
2. The tree must “drink.” If it is not taking up water, cut another 1/2” disk from the trunk and immediately return it to the water
3. On the first day, the tree will likely consume one gallon or more of water
4. Your tree will then consume around a pint of water per day (check it daily)
5. Avoid using any additives to the water (plain water is adequate)
6. Do not let the tree run out of water

Water is essential, as it prevents the tree from drying out, needles from dropping off, and the boughs from drooping. Water is also the key to keeping your tree fragrant through the season.

Tip: Before leaving the tree lot or nursery where you bought the tree, make sure they will replace the tree if it does not take up water.

Lighting a Christmas Tree

How you decide to light your tree may have a tremendous influence on its ability to retain moisture and stay fresh.

Over the past few decades, tree lights have gotten smaller, more numerous, and safer. It is highly discouraged to use traditional incandescent bulbs (with a wire filament) on live trees as they heat up, accelerating the drying process.

LED (Light Emitting Diodes) Christmas tree lighting has surged in popularity for their durability and energy efficiency. These lights don’t have filaments, so they produce considerably less heat than traditional incandescent lights.

Read More about lighting your Christmas tree at toddsmariettatreeservices.com/choosing-lighting-christmas-tree/

Christmas Tree Disposal

When you’re finished with your tree or it has dried out, you have multiple options. Consider the following ways of disposal:

• Start a new compost pile
• Take it to a recycling center
• Chip and use it as mulch
• Submerse the tree in a pond
• Ask your municipality if they offer pickup and disposal options

Tip: Once you’ve removed the tree from your home, getting up all of those fallen needles may pose a challenge. Avoid frustration by using your vacuum’s hose (no attachment needed) to quickly draw up the needles.

Note: When pine trees are chipped and used as mulch, they lower the soil’s pH, making it more acidic.

How to Keep a Christmas Tree Alive

In this article, you discovered valuable information about selecting, caring for, setting up, and disposing of your live, fresh-cut tree.

When you invest the time to properly care for your live Christmas tree, you give it the means to stay fresh and vibrant throughout the holidays.

Not caring for your Christmas tree can result in the tree’s accelerated dying and drying, creating an extreme fire hazard potentially ending in catastrophic fire damage to your home.

Sources:
web.extension.illinois.edu/trees/selection.cfm
sdda.sd.gov/legacydocs/Forestry/educational-information/PDF/Care-Real-Christmas-Tree.pdf
extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/fnr/fnr-423-w.pdf
mncta.com/tree-care
goodhousekeeping.com/holidays/christmas-ideas/a24803/tips-to-keep-a-christmas-tree-fresh/

Keep your trees from being engulfed and killed by invasive kudzu vines. Knowing how to stop and control kudzu vines will help you save your trees, shrubs, and plants.

72tree.com assembled the following information about kudzu vines to help you understand their destructive nature and keep them from causing catastrophic damages to your trees.

Kudzu Vines and Trees

Kudzu vines can trail or climb. When they climb trees, they practically glue themselves to the bark of their host as they climb. Once breaching the canopy, the vine spreads rapidly, causing extreme shading of the tree.

If the affected tree doesn’t decline from girdling, it will certainly die once the vine completely overshadows the canopy unless immediate action is taken.

How To Safely Remove Kudzu from a Tree – The following steps will help you stop kudzu vines from killing your trees.

• Locate and cut the vine’s lower-most growth at the base of the tree
• Apply a 50% solution of triclopyr to the vine’s stumps to kill the roots
• Let the vine die on the tree. Pulling it off may cause severe bark damage.

Tip: Persistent weeding, mowing, and/or grazing (especially during the growing season) will deter the vine from reestablishing itself.

Kudzu Invasive Species

Kudzu (Pueraria montana var. lobata) vines are fast-growing, woody, hairy, trailing, or climbing vines that can grow to lengths of 100 feet with a massive taproot. The vine has large compound leaves with three broad leaflets. The plant bears long flower clusters of late-blooming reddish to purple flowers and brown, hairy, flattened seed pods.

Introduction to the US – Kudzu, native to Asia, was introduced to the United States in the late 1800s as a means of erosion control, livestock forage, and ornamental purposes (introduction occurred in 1876 at the Philadelphia Centennial Exposition where it was exhibited as an ornamental vine).

Plant Reproduction – Kudzu’s spread is primarily vegetative by taking root at nodes where the vines contact soil and subsequently form entirely new plants. The plant can also spread by seed, but few viable seeds are found in each pod.

Plant Growth and Habitat – Pueraria montana grows well in multiple habitats and soil types. Its most aggressive growth rate occurs where winters are mild, average summer temperatures are above 80°F, and annual rainfall reaches or surpasses 40 inches. However, the plant’s robust root system helps it survive summer or extended drought conditions. In areas where the plant successfully establishes itself, it can be found in abundance along roadsides, old/abandoned fields, forest edges, and other sunny areas.

Since its introduction, kudzu has spread fervently. It is currently present from New York to Florida and from nearly the entire eastern seaboard as far west as Arizona (Oregon and Washington have also reported confined cases of the species).

USDA Classification – In 1953, the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) removed this plant species from its list of allowable cover plants. Then in 1970, kudzu was listed as a common weed of the South.

Note: By growing up to 12 inches per day, this invasive species can out-compete and kill everything from grasses to mature trees, crowding and shading them.

Kudzu Control and Prevention

Effective control methods of Pueraria montana depend on the size and location of the infestation. Consider the following:

Small or Poorly-Established Patches – These can usually be eliminated by repeated weeding, mowing, and/or grazing during the growing season.

Large or Well-Established Infestations – While weeding, mowing, and/or grazing effectively slow this type of infestation, it will typically not kill the roots of the larger plants.

These infestations can also be controlled with a foliar solution of 2% to 3% glyphosate or triclopyr plus a 0.5% non-ionic surfactant to thoroughly wet all the leaves.

After surface vegetation is controlled, you can dig and cut into the central root system and apply a 50% solution of glyphosate or triclopyr to the wounded roots.

When an infestation encroaches on desired vegetation, avoid using chemical control methods and manually remove the plant(s).

Tip: All treatments should be monitored for multiple growing seasons to prevent re-sprouting.

Advisory: When using any herbicide or pesticide, follow all directions/instructions on the label. “The label is the law!”

Kudzu (Pueraria montana var. lobata)

In this article, you discovered essential information about kudzu vines, how to stop them from killing your trees, and how to eliminate them altogether.

By taking swift action to control this highly invasive plant species, you can prevent your trees and landscape from being over-grown and snuffed out.

When you ignore a kudzu infestation, you are potentially signing a death warrant for all vegetation in its path, ranging from grasses to mature, healthy trees.

Sources:
ncforestservice.gov/publications/Forestry%20Leaflets/IS08.pdf
invasivespeciesinfo.gov/terrestrial/plants/kudzu
invasive.org/browse/subthumb.cfm?sub=2425&start=1
eddmaps.org/distribution/usstate.cfm?sub=2425
npgsweb.ars-grin.gov/gringlobal/taxon/taxonomydetail?id=314966

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/kudzu-vines/

Trees play a significant role in our environment, and they also have many great benefits when we have them on our property. They provide shade and a cooler atmosphere during warmer months of the seasons. Like any other plant, we have to take proper care of them, so they don’t die from unwanted circumstance.

Why We Need Trees

Trees make the world turn. Yes, they capture all the pollution and harmful gases, while releasing oxygen for all living things to survive. The more trees we have on our planet and on our property, the healthier we will live.

What Can Go Wrong?

There are plenty of factors when it comes to dead or dying trees. Severe storms and natural disasters can have negative effects on trees in forests and our yards. When you have dead or dying trees, they can be homes to many other problems including infestation, pests, diseases, and hazardous dangers. The proper thing to do is to get rid of these trees or stumps right away, so they don’t cause further problems. Remember, when you remove them, you should plant another tree or shrub in its place.

Dying trees on your property can be hazardous to your house

With severe storms during different seasons, dying trees are more susceptible to falling on your home if they are relatively close. You never want this to happen because it’s a danger to your family and your property. The only thing you can do is make sure you remove them properly if they need to be. Big Foot Tree Service is here to help you with those tasks. Contact Big Foot Tree Service at 973-885-8000 today or visit us online for more information about our tree removal services and tree stump removal services.

 

 

The post The Importance of Trees on Your Property first appeared on Big Foot Tree Service.

This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com

With so much uncertainty in the world right now, more and more people are choosing to pull out the Christmas decorations early. Putting up the tree, taking time to decorate it with meaningful ornaments, and seeing it all lit up can put some joy back into what’s been a really difficult year! If you’re thinking that this might be the Christmas you finally go for a live tree, we’re here to help you get the most out of it. Let’s take a look at the best Christmas tree care & removal tips!

Water wisely

It should come as no surprise that the most important part of making your live Christmas tree last longer is by keeping it hydrated with regular watering. Depending on who you ask, you may hear all sorts of old wives tales about adding certain substances to the base of your tree to preserve it for longer, including sugar, glycerin, 7-up, and even bleach. But none of these have been proven to help the longevity of a tree that’s been cut, and in some cases, they may actually shorten the tree’s life span! Stick the following time-tested tips instead.

• Make sure you always have plenty of clean water in the reservoir. Remember that these trees have been cut, and as such, require a certain amount of water to ensure the trunk doesn’t seal over with sap. 
• Since sap can seal over a cut trunk quite quickly, you should cut at least half an inch off the bottom of the trunk right before you place the tree in the stand. If you aren’t able to do this at home, the lot can do it for you before you leave.
• Refill the water in the reservoir daily.
• Keep your Christmas tree away from heat sources like vents and fireplaces. This can cause the tree to dry out and drop needles faster. 
• Ensure your tree stays upright. If you aren’t able to achieve this using just the stand, you can try anchoring it to the closest wall or ceiling using small hooks and fishing line. This will help provide some extra stability.  

How to deal with dropped tree needles

The longer you have your tree up, the more needles it will drop. This happens naturally as the tree gets older and begins to dry out. Dealing with dropped needles is a regular occurrence with live trees, so you should have a plan in place to deal with them. Start with sweeping up as many needles as you can, as most aren’t good for your vacuum. You can then use your vacuum to get what you can’t reach.

Once the holidays are over and you begin taking your tree down, you’re doing to encounter the worst of your needles. It will be old and dry then, and prone to shedding more easily. To minimize this big clean-up job, you have a couple of options! 

The first is a disposable Christmas tree bag. This is a bit like a giant garbage bag that is put down before any decorating is done, then pulled up around the tree once the holidays are over to help you haul it out of your house without making a huge mess! If you choose to go with a disposable bag, just make sure you pick one that is large enough to fit around your whole tree. Look for one that is thick as well, so it won’t rip and tear as you try to move the tree.

The other option is to use a sheet. Siphon any remaining water out of the reservoir using a baster, then spread a sheet on the floor, remove the tree from the stand, and lay it down on top of your sheet. At this point, you should be able to loosely wrap the tree in the sheet, lift it, and carry it outside with only a small amount of needles dropping. When you get the tree to the desired location, just roll the tree off the sheet, and voilà! You’re all done! 

Disposing of your tree responsibly 

Unfortunately, you can’t just put a live tree back in a box like you can an artificial one. You’ll need to explore what disposable options are available to you based on your location! Before you begin taking your tree down, check with your community to find out when there will be pick-up days for disposed Christmas trees. Your local waste management company is likely to announce dates for this, so follow them on social media or check their website so you’ll know the pick-up dates well in advance. You can also take your tree to a landfill yourself in order to recycle it. 

Have a happy holiday season!

Having the right Christmas tree can make your holiday even more joyful, especially when you have a plan in place to care for and properly dispose of it. Following the tips above will help you enjoy a fresh tree for longer and keep needle droppings to a minimum. From the Red’s Tree Service family to yours, have a happy holiday season!

This post first appeared on https://redstreeservice.com

Avoid being stuck with the responsibility and expensive repairs when a tree falls on or from your property onto a neighbors’. Knowing how to define responsibility for fallen trees will help you resolve the situation promptly and fairly.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered information on who is responsible for a tree when it falls, when homeowners insurance should be involved, and proactive measures to prevent your trees from falling.

Fallen Tree Damage Responsibility

A tree does not decide where to fall, but it can cause catastrophic damages when it does fall. Here’s how to determine who is responsible for what:

Neighbor’s Tree Falls on My Property – I am responsible for the portion of the tree that fell on my property, including filing damage claims with my homeowners insurance carrier.

My Tree Fell on My Neighbor’s Property – I am responsible for the portion of the tree remaining on my property and any insurance claims regarding my property.

This assignment of responsibility for a tree and/or branches falling on your property is common throughout the U.S. cities. However, you can dispute this responsibility if before the tree fell:

• You documented and communicated your concerns about the tree to your neighbor.
• You or your neighbor contracted a certified arborist to conduct a tree hazard assessment (of the tree in question) and found it to be diseased, dying, or dead and posing a threat to your property.
• Your city’s arborist or forester notified your neighbor that the tree was diseased, dying, or dead, requiring its removal or pruning.

You are not responsible for normal or seasonal debris that falls into your neighbor’s yard, like leaves, seeds, and twigs. Your neighbor is responsible for the cleanup of those things.

Note: Neighbors are typically able to work things out without too much debate or trouble. You may need to file a homeowners insurance claim when there are extensive structural damages. Depending on the policy and coverages you have, your homeowners insurance may or may not cover tree cleanup and damage repair expenses.

Tip: For your local ordinance / regulations regarding tree stewardship and legal tree removal, visit municode.com, click on “code library” from the menu, click on your state, then find your county or city. Type “trees” in the search engine and select the relevant results. If you happen to reside in Cobb County or Marietta Ga, visit toddsmariettatreeservices.com/removal-permit-ordinance/ for local regulations regarding trees.

Tree Damage and Homeowners Insurance Claims

When a tree falls on your house, whether or not you own the tree, there are some things you should do. The following will help you prevent further damages and seamlessly file your insurance claim:

• Call 9-1-1 in the event anyone suffered injuries when the tree fell.
• If it is safe to approach the tree and damages, take pictures of the damages (a narrated video will allow you to explain what you are filming and capture hundreds of images from the video).
• Call your insurance agent. They can explain your options and guide you through the process of filing a claim.
• After filing a claim, an adjuster will pay a visit to the property, assess the damages, and explain how your homeowners insurance coverages come into play.
• If you have documented proof that the fallen tree (from your neighbor’s property) was diseased, dying, or dead and that you previously notified your neighbor about the tree’s condition, present this to the adjuster. You may have a case to hold your neighbor responsible for all costs and repairs.
• Make sure to notify the claims adjuster or insurance agent before contracting a tree removal service. Some well-established tree services may communicate directly with your insurance company, helping you through the claims process.

Tip: If you were injured when a tree fell, and you can prove that someone else’s negligence is the cause of that injury, you may have a legal case. Discuss your fallen tree situation with a personal injury lawyer to learn more about your rights.

Note: If the fallen tree is yours, and it was diseased or dying before it fell, your insurance claim may be denied due to neglect.

The following measures should also be taken after a tree falls on your home:

• Once the tree has been removed, hire a roofing company to repair the damaged portion of the roof and inspect the rest of the roof for any hidden damages from the tree’s impact.
• Hire a contractor to evaluate the structural integrity of your home.
• Hire a plumber to inspect and evaluate the home’s plumbing.
• Hire an ISA certified arborist to perform a tree hazard assessment on the rest of your trees.

The impact of a falling tree can reverberate throughout your home, causing hidden minor damages that can quickly develop into expensive problems.

Read more about the necessity of tree hazard assessments at toddsmariettatreeservices.com/why-do-i-need-tree-hazard-assessment/

How to Prevent Tree Damage

While mother nature can present forces beyond our control, there is much you can do to help your trees withstand severe weather. The following will help you boost the longevity of your trees and avoid catastrophic damages from their structural failure:

• Water, mulch, fertilize, and prune your trees as needed for their species and age.
• Hire a professional tree service to thin the crown, reducing wind resistance.
• Have your trees inspected annually by an ISA certified arborist.
• When you detect dieback, chlorosis, and/or fungal growth (mushrooms), take immediate action by hiring a tree service to evaluate the problem’s depth.
• If your tree is leaning, stake it, or have it removed.
• If you cannot save your tree or it has become a nuisance, have it removed.

Tip: When your tree presents signs of declining health, have it inspected and treated immediately. The longer a problem persists, the more dangerous your tree becomes to surrounding structures and neighboring trees (diseases and infestations spread quickly)

Read more about tree emergencies at toddsmariettatreeservices.com/how-to-identify-tree-emergency/

Fallen Tree Responsibility

In this article, you discovered valuable insight into who is responsible when a tree falls, defining who a tree belongs to, when a homeowners insurance policy should be activated, and what you can do to prevent a tree from falling.

Recognizing tree problems and having them addressed will help you avoid the uncomfortable situation of being held responsible for structural damages and potentially life-threatening injuries.

Ignoring tree problems leaves you vulnerable to your insurance carrier denying your claim and potentially being sued for all damages and repairs caused by your tree when it falls.

Sources:
georgejohnsonins.com/news/38/Who+is+Liable+When+a+Tree+Falls+on+a+Neighbor%27s+Property
homeguides.sfgate.com/responsibility-overhanging-tree-100592.html
extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=B1031&title=Shade%20and%20Street%20Tree%20Care
secure.caes.uga.edu/extension/publications/files/pdf/C%201099_1.PDF

Prevent the environment, disease, and insect activity from killing your trees. Knowing why trees die will help you take notice and intervene on threats to your tree’s life.

72tree.com assembled the following information about the many factors that lead to the death of trees, the signs and symptoms of a dying tree, and what to do about it.

1. Tree Diseases

Tree diseases can wreak havoc on your trees, and in some instances, kill them in a single growing season. The following are some of the more common diseases that infect trees:

• Anthracnose (Glomerella cingulata)
• Fire Blight (Erwinia amylovora)
• Diplodia Tip Blight (Sphaeropsis sapinea)
• Oak Wilt (Ceratocystis fagacearum)
• Dutch Elm Disease (Ophiostoma ulmi)
• Canker Diseases (caused by multiple fungal pathogens)

Signs and Symptoms – Trees infected with different diseases will display different symptoms. However, all should be treated with haste to prevent the decline and death of the infected tree. The following symptoms can help you diagnose the disease you are dealing with

• Anthracnose – Sunken spots or lesions of various colors in foliage, stems, fruit, and/or flowers. Some infections lead to cankers on twigs, branches, and trunk.

Treatment – If this disease is caught early enough, extensive pruning may halt its progression, allowing the tree to compartmentalize affected areas.

Read more about anthracnose at 72tree.com/symptoms-of-anthracnose/

• Fire Blight – Sudden brownish-black withering and death of blossoms, leaves, twigs, fruit spurs, and branches are signs of this disease. Heavily affected trees will appear scorched by fire and may die altogether.

Treatment – Extensive pruning of affected areas and copper fungicides. However, there is no cure for fire blight. Removal of the tree should be considered before the pathogen spreads to neighboring trees and shrubs.

Further reading on fire blight can be found at 72tree.com/preventing-fire-blight-tree-disease/

• Diplodia Tip Blight – This disease infects conifers, first killing needles at the tips of branches. Symptoms typically appear on the lower half of the tree, progressing upwards. When new needles begin expanding, they end up stunted, turn yellow, then tan or brown.

Treatment – This pathogen responds to fungicide treatments. Treatment should start at bud break in the spring for effective control. Pruning out damaged areas, and cones should also be removed, as they hold fungal spores.

This blight can be controlled, but not cured. As with any needle blight disease, the objective of spraying the tree is to break the cycle of infection in emerging needles. Many seasons of treatments are needed before noticeable results are achieved.

• Oak Wilt – This disease infects oak trees. It can be identified as mature foliage develops a dark green water-soaked appearance, or may turn pale green or bronze, starting at the leaf margins and progressing toward the center of the leaf. This usually begins on a single branch and quickly spreads throughout the entire crown. Red oaks can die within 4 to 6 weeks after symptoms appear.

Treatment – Once an oak tree is infected with oak wilt, there is no known treatment capable of ridding the tree of the disease. Infected trees should be professionally removed.

Note: Healthy oaks can be injected with a fungicide known as Propiconazole to suppress oak wilt disease. Since Oak Wilt is spread by root grafts and insect carriers, treat those trees close to infected ones to slow the disease’s spread.

For more oak wilt information, visit 72tree.com/oak-wilt-identification-treatment-prevention/

• Dutch Elm Disease (DED) – DED is a vascular wilt disease in trees. External symptoms of infection are yellowing and wilting of leaves on individual branches. These leaves then turn brown and curl up as the branch dies, foliage eventually may drop off.

Treatment – Much like oak wilt, Dutch Elm Disease must be treated proactively before the disease is present in the tree. This disease spreads so quickly that diseased trees may not respond to any form of treatment.

Note: Healthy elms can be professionally treated in the same manner as healthy oaks with the Propiconazole fungicide.

• Canker Diseases – Symptoms may include round-to-irregular sunken, swollen, flattened, cracked, discolored, or dead areas (appearing as bruises or open wounds) on tree stems, twigs, limbs, or trunk.

Treatment – There is no cure for canker diseases on fruit and shade trees, but the disease’s spread can be controlled by pruning out infected areas. In late winter or early spring, carefully remove and destroy infected branches 4 inches below the canker where the tree is releasing amber color sap. If the canker is located on the trunk, request professional help to treat the infected area or remove the tree.

When treating, pruning, or interacting with diseased trees, you can reduce the chances of spreading the disease by:

• Sanitizing all equipment, including gloves, rakes, saws, etc. before and after use
• Destroying (burning) dropped or pruned foliage, twigs, and limbs (never add infected material to compost piles)
• Never spraying infected trees with overhead watering or irrigation

When in doubt, don’t take the chance of making a bad tree situation worse. Reach out to an ISA certified arborist for professional help. Read more about tree fungi control and prevention at 72tree.com/how-to-get-rid-of-tree-fungi/

2. Weather-Related Tree Damage

Trees have spent millennia adapting to their climate and region. That said, severe weather can still inflict significant and sometimes lethal damages to a tree. For example:

Bark Stripping – During catastrophic weather events like tornadoes and hurricanes, bark can be stripped from a side of or from the entire tree, effectively killing it.

Impact Damage – Also, during severe weather events, yard ornaments, statues, bicycles, and even vehicles can be carried by wind or floodwater, impacting and severely damaging the tree’s bark. If enough bark is damaged or stripped from the tree, it will be girdled and quickly die.

Drought – When the weather is dry, trees still need water. Most tree roots live within the first 30-inches of soil, and without water for prolonged periods, a tree can suffer hydraulic failure and die. Proper mulching and increased watering patterns can prevent this peril.

Severe or Repeated Flooding – In contrast to drought, this can lead to the destabilization of a tree’s root plate. When this condition occurs, the tree may develop a lean or suffer windthrow from the slightest wind.

Windthrow – This condition occurs when trees are toppled by wind. When windthrow occurs, a tree is uprooted as it is blown over.

Windsnap – This condition also occurs when trees are toppled by wind. When windsnap occurs, a tree is broken off at the trunk as it is blown down. Proper seasonal pruning activities and crown thinning can significantly reduce the potential for windthrow or windsnap.

For further reading and preventative measures on windthrow and windsnap, read 72tree.com/blowndown-windthrow-windsnap/

3. Boring Insect Infestations

When it comes to tree killers, boring insects are perhaps the most prolific and persistent. Larvae feed in galleries beneath the bark, consuming the tree’s cambium layer, while adults consume the host’s foliage. Aerial views of forested land demonstrate (in large swaths) the devastation these insects are capable of. A boring insect infestation can be identified as follows:

• Adults found in traps (visual confirmation)
• Partially consumed foliage (Leaf notches)
• Chlorosis of foliage in sections of the crown
• Extreme dieback of foliage and stems
• Frass (sawdust) found on the bark from burrowing activities
• Exit holes in tree bark
• Bulging or vertical splits in the bark (over larval galleries)
• Suckers and water sprouts growing in the crown, on the trunk, and/or from the roots
• Woodpecker damage (woodpeckers hunt beetle larvae)
• Squirrel activity (some squirrel species feed on beetle larvae)

As larvae feed season after season, they channel through their host’s cambium layer in a zigzag or ribbon pattern (interrupting the flow of water and nutrients. This feeding ultimately leads to a partial or total girdling of the host, resulting in hydraulic failure and death.

Boring Insect Control and Prevention – Due to the larvae’s occult feeding activities, preventing a wood-boring insect infestation is not always possible. However, these practices will help reduce the potential of an infestation:

• Plant well-adapted species of trees not commonly attacked by wood borers in your region.
• Choose and prepare a suitable planting site to avoid tree stress like freeze damage, sunscald, windburn, and other natural stressors.
• Promote your tree’s health with proper watering, mulching, and fertilization methods.
• Use proper seasonal pruning practices (winter/dormant season).
• Avoid mechanical injury to tree trunks from lawnmowers and/or construction.

If you detect a wood-boring insect infestation, contact an ISA certified arborist to not only confirm the infestation but to mobilize local and regional forestry support if needed. Such infestations can cause catastrophic damages in very little time.

Note: In the absence of stressed or ailing trees, boring insects will attack healthy specimens.

Read more exciting literature about boring insects by visiting 72tree.com/metallic-wood-boring-beetles/

4. Lifespan of Trees

While rare, a tree can die of “old age.” However, what is considered old age for one species may be merely infancy for another. Consider the following species and their average lifespan:

• Willow (Salix) 30 years
• Birch (Betula) 40 – 50 years
• Poplar (Populus) 50 years
• Magnolia (Magnolia) 80 – 120 years
• Maple (Acer) 100 – 300 years
• Oak (Quercus) 100 – 300 years
• Ash (Fraxinus) 120 – 300 years
• Aspen (Populus tremuloides) 150 – 200 years
• Walnut (Juglans) 150 to 250 years
• Fig (Ficus carica) 200 years
• Spruce (Picea) 200 years
• Beech (Fagus) 300 – 400 years
• Elm (Ulmus) 300 years
• Pecan (Carya illinoinensis) 300 years
• Pistachio (Pistacia vera) 300 years
• Giant Sequoia (Sequoiadendron giganteum) 500 – 2,000 years
• Sycamore (Platanus occidentalis) 600 years
• Bristlecone (Balfourianae) 5,000+ years

Signs and Symptoms – Trees in decline due to age may present many symptoms, including the following:

• Chlorosis (loss of color in foliage)
• Extreme dieback (multiple dead branches)
• Cladoptosis (randomly falling branches)
• Sudden Death (the tree just dies)

If you have a tree that is nearing or surpassing its lifespan and is in decline, there is little to nothing you can do to save it. When in these circumstances, call on an ISA certified arborist’s expertise to evaluate the tree and recommend a course of action.

Note: While most tree species can outlive a human being, the vast majority of trees succumb to weather, biological, or human interference factors long before reaching their full lifespan.

Saving Dying Trees

In this article, you discovered information about the lifespan of trees, diseases, weather, and insects that are commonly responsible for why trees die.

By taking preventative measures to halt the spread of disease and insect infestations, you are helping your tree to live up to or surpass its lifespan.

When you ignore the warning signs of a dying or sick tree, you risk suffering grave consequences when that tree dies and falls on your property.

Sources:
extension.umn.edu/plant-diseases/oak-wilt-minnesota
mortonarb.org/trees-plants/tree-and-plant-advice/help-diseases/canker-diseases
ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7414.html
fs.usda.gov/naspf/sites/default/files/publications/how_to_identify_and_manage_dutch_elm_disease.pdf
plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/sphaeropsisdiplodia.pdf

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/why-do-trees-die/

Winter is on its way, which means the weather will bring ice, snow and slush for all of us to enjoy. Though most people tend to spend most of their time indoors each winter, especially in New Jersey when the temperature dips below freezing, some people choose to be outdoors for winter sports and other activities. One thing to consider is to keep up with some specific yardwork tasks that you are able to do throughout the colder season.

Pruning Trees in the Winter

Winter is actually a good time of the year to prune your trees– the deciduous ones, that is. Since the foliage is gone– the leaves fell off months ago– and the tree is dormant (so there won’t be the bleeding of sap), winter is a good time to be able to see down to the structure of what you’re cutting and take care of business without hurting the tree.

Did you know, for instance, that oak trees should only be pruned in the winter? The reason why is an interesting one: there’s a beetle that is attracted to freshly cut oak trees. The beetle can smell the odor and is attracted to it. However, the beetle is bad for the tree, causing “oak wilt.” During the winter, however, the beetles are hibernating, so it’s the best time of the year to prune an oak. Certain trees are best pruned in winter.

Pruning can be done with hand pruners, pruning saws, chain saws, and other tools. If and when you see branches that look like they’re dying, diseased, damaged, deformed or dead, prune them. Ultimately, pruning helps a tree build its strength and form. It’s a good thing for trees.

Hire a Professional Tree Service!

Do you need trees in your New Jersey yard pruned but don’t want to do it yourself? Contact Big Foot Tree Service at 973-885-8000 to have experts come prune your trees for you. Available any time of the year, Big Foot Tree Service even works in the winter. The number to call is 973-885-8000.

 

The post Should You Prune Your Trees in the Winter? first appeared on Big Foot Tree Service.

This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com