What Does it Mean to Be a Tree Care Operator?

Did you know in New Jersey it is now a law that if you have work done on your trees, the company must be registered with the State Board of Tree Experts? Here is why it’s a rule and why it’s a good thing for home and business owners throughout the state.

Safety First When Choosing a Tree Care Specialist

There are many risks associated with removing or trimming a tree. For starters, any false moves by someone who is not properly trained and licensed, could result in injury to him or herself and others, as well as other property damage. This could affect an entire neighborhood and not just a single property,  since often times, work on trees is done near power lines. As such, not only could a novice injure him or herself, he or she could also knock the power out of the entire neighborhood.

What’s more, a tree care operator who is not registered is unlikely to have the best tools and equipment to get the job done correctly, which further increases the risk.

Reasons to Choose a Licensed Tree Care Operator

When choosing who should work on the trees on your property, you want to go with a company who has extensive experience and tree care serves as their “main job” and not just an ancillary service they provide. For example, humans still haven’t figured out how to control gravity; once the tree begins its fall, there is no control of where it will go, which is why you want a true expert making judgements that could be the difference between a safe, seamless landing for a tree or branches, or one where someone tragically gets hurt or the power goes out. As such, you should only work with licensed and experienced tree care operators.

How To Be Sure You’re Hiring the Right Tree Care Operator in New Jersey

If you’re in New Jersey, you can check the New Jersey Board of Tree Experts directory here to make sure you’re working with a safe, reputable and licensed company.

If you’re in the Wayne, NJ area and need a reputable tree care operator, contact Big Foot Tree Service today.

This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com

That fungus growing on your tree could kill it and turn it into an extreme hazard. By knowing how to deal with tree fungi, you can help your tree thrive for decades.

72tree.com gathered information on identifying harmful tree fungi, how to get rid of it, and what you can do to prevent it.

How To Treat Tree Fungus

Before you start dowsing your tree with fungicides and other chemical mixtures, you need to identify what type of fungus is growing on your tree and if it can be removed safely.

Mushroom Conks – If you have mushroom conks growing out of your tree trunk, it is a sign that the fungi at work have already penetrated the tree’s defenses and are decaying the heartwood of the tree.

For these mushroom conks to appear, there must be decaying wood within the tree to feed the fungus. This type of inner decay is known as heart rot.

When mushrooms grow from the root flare or in abundance on surface roots, you can be certain that the root system of the tree has been compromised and requires immediate attention.

Treatment: Do not try to remove mushroom conks from a tree, you may inadvertently release billions of spores that can infect surrounding trees and plants. Call a professional tree service to evaluate the extent of the damage to the tree and recommend a course of action.

Lichens – A lichen, or lichenized fungus, is two organisms functioning as one. Lichens comprise a fungus in a symbiotic relationship with an alga and typically appear as a flat rounded leafy structure attached to the bark of a tree.

Lichens may appear harmful but are superficial, cosmetic eyesores at best. These organisms do not possess roots and rarely cause any damage to the organism they attach themselves to.

Treatment: If you wish, most lichen species can be eliminated from a tree with a mixture of 6 tablespoons of liquid copper sulfate mixed with 1 gallon of water applied during the tree’s dormant season. When applying this mixture, cover the lichen to the point of runoff.

Before using chemicals to control lichens, read the instructions printed on the label. By following the manufacturer’s recommended directions, you can increase the chemical’s effectiveness while preventing injury to the tree.

Fire Blight – Fire Blight can be caused by bacterial and/or fungal infections. It causes twigs and branches to appear water-soaked, then dark, and finally dry and cracked. Twigs and branches die from the terminal end and take on a burned appearance. Branches may bend or curl, commonly referred to as “shepherd’s crook.” As leaves and fruit die, they remain on the branches.

Treatment: Prune out infected branches (at least 8 inches below the damage) during the spring and summer. Do not prune while the branches are wet, as blight is highly transmissible via splashing water. Sterilize all pruning equipment before and after use on an infected tree.

Chemical control of blight is not always effective and should be used as a preventative measure in healthy trees.

Read more about fire blight prevention at 72tree.com/preventing-fire-blight-tree-disease/

Cankers – Cankers are dead, fungus-infected portions of tree bark on the branches or the trunk. They may appear as dark, open, seething wounds, or sunken, darkened, “wet” areas of bark. Most plant pathogens cannot penetrate tree bark directly. Still, they will colonize bark wounded by wildlife, poor maintenance, or mechanical injury.

Canker diseases can cause extensive damage to trees when they kill enough of the bark to girdle a branch or trunk. The fungus causing the canker is also capable of spreading throughout the tree, by way of the xylem and phloem, eventually appearing in other areas of the tree.

Treatment: For cankers found on twigs, and branches, prune the affected twig or branch from the tree. While normal pruning activities should be restricted to the tree’s dormant season, cankers are considered urgent. They can be pruned off the tree at any time of the year.

Note: Sterilize your pruning equipment before and after use on an infected tree. By doing so, you can prevent introducing another pathogen to the already sickened tree, and carrying the illness to another healthy tree.

For small cankers on tree trunks, tracing may help to reduce damage and slow its spread. Cut outside the cankered area into healthy bark, shaping the cut as an ellipse (this will allow the tree to compartmentalize the entire wound over time). Care should be taken to avoid infection of the fresh wound with canker or other pathogens.

For larger cankers on the trunk of a tree, call a professional tree service to evaluate the extent of the damage and recommend a course of action to either treat and save the tree or remove it.

Read more about heart rot and other diseases at 72tree.com/5-tree-pests-diseases-avoid-spring/

Tree Fungus Prevention

Trees have evolved over thousands of years to protect themselves against illness and infestations. They are highly efficient at protecting themselves when they are healthy and thriving. You can aide your tree by:

• Carefully apply fungicides during dry weather and before fungal growth
• Making sure pruning activities are done timely and with sterilized equipment
• Promoting its health throughout the growing season
• Using insecticides to prevent insect infestations
• Removing suckers from surface roots
• Preventing soil compaction on or around the root plate
• Immediately addressing storm damage
• Addressing or removing troubled trees from or around your property

Tip: You can help trees fight fungal attacks and heal themselves by promoting their health. These are some of the things you can do to improve the health of your tree:

• Seasonal Pruning
• Annual Tree Inspections
• Organic Mulch
• Deep Watering (without overwatering)
• Fertilization
• Protect Surface Roots and Trunk from Damage

The importance of an annual tree inspection cannot be overstated. Detecting problems in their beginning stages helps you eliminate the existing problems and prevent potential issues throughout the growing season.

Killing Tree Fungus

In this article, you discovered the different fungi that can attack and harm your tree, how to treat it, and prevent it.

By taking swift action to remove fungus-infected parts of a tree and use measures to stop future infections, you are extending the life of your tree, and preventing it from becoming a threat to your property and wellbeing.

When you ignore the signs of fungal infections on your tree, you risk the tree dying and causing catastrophic damages when it eventually succumbs and falls.

Sources:
herbarium.usu.edu/fun-with-fungi/lichens
plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/treecankers.pdf
vegcropshotline.org/article/10-useful-rules-for-fungicide-application/
extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C871&title=Fireblight:%20Symptoms,%20Causes,%20and%20Treatment

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/how-to-get-rid-of-tree-fungi/

Keep your tree from becoming an extreme threat to your property and landscape when it is infected by Hypoxylon canker. When you know how to identify and treat this disease, you might save your tree.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered information about the definition, identification, treatment, and prevention of Hypoxylon canker.

Hypoxylon Atropunctatum Disease Definition

Hypoxylon atropunctatum is the former, more widely-known name of Biscogniauxia canker or dieback. This disease is a frequent contributor to the decline, decay, and death in a wide range of tree species.

Biscogniauxia fungi are an opportunistic species that do not affect healthy, thriving trees. When a tree is under hydraulic (water), root disease, physical damage, or soil compaction induced stress, these fungi can quickly colonize the host tree.

Once the disease has colonized a tree and produces fruiting structures, it is a signal that the tree is in rapid decline, if not already dead. This is especially true when the infection is located in the trunk.

Identification of Hypoxylon Canker Disease

The following symptoms are indicative of a tree in declining health that may signal the presence of Hypoxylon atropunctatum (Biscogniauxia canker):

• Chlorosis of the tree’s foliage
• Reduced twig growth and smaller leaf growth
• Dead or browned leaves remain attached
• Dead branches or limbs
• Thinning canopy
• Water sprouts growing from the trunk, large limbs, or roots
• White, decayed sapwood in cankered areas of the tree
• Patches of outer bark sloughing off of the branches or trunk

The following are signs to positively identify the fungus:

Early Growth Stages – Looking at cankered areas on a tree, you will see a dark red to brown or olive-green fungal tissue (stroma) over those areas.

Later Growth Stages – Flaking grey surface that reveals a brown to black crusty material with the impression that the area had burned.

Advanced Growth Stages – Small infected patches that eventually merge together to form strips of infected material along the trunk and limbs of the tree.

As the fungus moves through the growth stages, sections of the infected tree’s bark will pop or fall off, revealing a fungal mat where the tree’s cambium should be.

The following tree species can serve as host to Hypoxylon canker disease:

• Quaking aspen (Populus tremuloides)
• Bigtooth aspen (Populus grandidentata)
• Black poplar hybrids (Populus nigra)
• Balsam poplar (Populus balsamifera)
• European aspen (Populus tremula)
• Violet Willow (Salix daphnoides)
• Eastern Cottonwood (Populus deltoides)
• White poplar (Populus alba)
• Southern Live Oak (Quercus virginiana)
• Red Oak (Quercus rubra)
• Blackjack Oak (Quercus marilandica)
• Post Oak (Quercus stellata)
• American sycamore (Platanus occidentalis)

Note: Hypoxylon canker has three primary species that can infect a variety of shade trees. Hypoxylon atropunctatum is commonly found on oak species, Hypoxylon mammatum attacks mostly aspen trees and Hypoxylon tinctor primarily infects sycamore trees. If none of the above trees and species are yours, these are other tree diseases and treatment instructions toddsmariettatreeservices.com/5-marietta-ga-tree-diseases-identification-treatment/

Treatment of Hypoxylon Canker Disease

There are no known fungicides that can prevent or cure Hypoxylon canker. It is important to remember the opportunistic trait of this fungus. When it can thrive on its host, that tree’s health is compromised or in decline. The following will help you chose an appropriate course of action:

Hypoxylon Canker on Limbs and Branches – When this disease has infected the limbs and branches (not the trunk) of a tree:

• Those limbs and branches should be carefully pruned from the tree.
• Prune infected limbs and branches in sections if needed to minimize disturbing infected areas.
• Wood infected by any species of fungi should be handled as highly transmissible to surrounding trees.
• Do not run these limbs and branches through a wood chipper.
• This wood can be burned.

Hypoxylon Canker on Tree Trunks – When this disease has infected the tree trunk, there is nothing you can do to prevent the decline and eventual death of the tree:

• Hire a professional tree service to carefully remove the tree.
• Do not run a Hypoxylon canker infected tree through a wood chipper.
• This wood can be burned.

Hypoxylon canker thriving on a tree is a clear indication that the tree was already in distress.

Prevention of Hypoxylon Canker Disease

Hypoxylon canker may already be present on your tree, waiting for the tree’s defenses to weaken. Some ways to prevent this disease from developing include:

• Remove any trees that have developed cankers on their trunks. As these trees die, they become an extreme hazard to property, people, and surrounding trees.
• Prune branches and limbs with cankers before they reach the trunk.
• If 25% of the tree’s crown will be lost from pruning, consult a professional tree service to evaluate the condition of the tree and recommend a course of action.
• Avoid planting poplar, willow, oak, and aspen near trees with Hypoxylon infections until those trees have been removed.
• Mulch your trees.
• Water your trees and provide frequent deep waterings during periods of extreme heat and drought.
• Perform annual soil tests and adjust your use of fertilizer to provide the appropriate nutrients for the tree.
• Seasonally prune your trees to promote new and healthy growth.
• Immediately treat any signs of insect infestations.

Prevention of Hypoxylon or Biscogniauxia canker can only be achieved by promoting the health of the tree. This approach allows the tree to employ its natural defenses to suppress the growth/development of this opportunistic fungus.

Hypoxylon Canker Disease

In this article, you discovered the definition of Hypoxylon canker disease, how to identify it, treat it, and prevent it from developing on your tree.

By taking immediate action to halt the progression of Hypoxylon canker, you can potentially save your tree from certain death.

When you fail to take measures against this disease, you are condemning your tree to certain death and promoting the spread of this fungal assassin.

Sources:
missouribotanicalgarden.org
extension.umn.edu/plant-diseases/hypoxylon-canker
agrilifeextension.tamu.edu/library/landscaping/hypoxylon-canker-of-oaks/
edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/FR/FR40700.pdf

The post Hypoxylon Canker Disease on Oak and Shade Trees (Biscogniauxia Canker) appeared first on http://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com.

Can’t decide whether to seed your lawn with Fescue or Bermuda?

Although there are dozens of varieties of lawn grasses, Fescue and Bermuda are among the most popular.

They both produce a clean, uniform-looking lawn that can enhance your home’s curb appeal. Fescue and Bermuda aren’t the same, however.

While similar in appearance, there are some key differences between them that shouldn’t be ignored.

What Is Fescue?

Fescue is a turfgrass that’s characterized by ultra-fine leaves.

When compared to Bermuda, Fescue has thinner blades of grass. As it grows, Fescue’s ultra-fine blades will help to fill your lawn. If there’s an area of your lawn with little or no grass, seeding it with fescue is a surefire way to treat it.

It’s also worth mentioning that Fescue is more tolerant of cold temperatures than Bermuda. Fescue grows in many warmer climates, including Texas, but it’s able to grow in cooler climates as well.

What Is Bermuda?

Bermuda, on the other hand, is a fast-growing variety of lawn grass that’s characterized by moderately thick leaves.

It has thicker and coarser blades of grass than its fescue counterpart. More importantly, Bermuda is considered an invasive grass because of its ability to grow and spread with minimal effort.

With its invasive nature, some homeowners view Bermuda as a nuisance.

If your lawn currently consists of a different variety of grass and Bermuda begins to take hold, it will likely create a messy-looking lawn. Rather than a single variety of your grass, your lawn will now have two varieties of grass. Of course, this isn’t a problem if you only seed your lawn with Bermuda.

When exposed to cold temperatures, Bermuda may go dormant. It’s less tolerant of cold temperatures than Fescue, which may deter some homeowners from choosing it.

The good news is that Bermuda offers a high tolerance to heat. It can withstand hot climates without dying. That’s especially important for us in Central Texas, which is why Bermuda grass is very common here.

In Conclusion

You really can’t go wrong with either Fescue or Bermuda.

Fescue has finer leaves and is more tolerant of cold temperatures, whereas Bermuda has thicker and coarser leaves and is more tolerant of hot temperatures.

Just remember to choose a variety of grass that’s appropriate for the climate, as well as soil conditions, where you live.

The Woodsman Company offers tree planting, tree pruning and shrub trimming, tree removal and stump grinding as well as a tree wellness program.

If we can help with any of your tree care needs give us a call at 512-846-2535 or 512-940-0799 or

The post Fescue vs Bermuda Grass: Which Is Best for Your Lawn? appeared first on Woodsman Tree Service.

Aphids are an all-too-common pest in gardens and landscapes. Also known as greenflies and blackflies, they feast on sap.

Because of their small size, however, aphids often go unnoticed. When fully grown, aphids are only about one-eighth of an inch long.

While you can’t easily spot them from afar, there are other ways to tell if large trees are infected with aphids.

Sticky Leaves

If you believe aphids have infested a large tree in your landscape, look at the leaves to see if they are sticky.

As previously mentioned, these otherwise small pests feast on sap. They’ll suck the sap the sap out of leaves while leaving behind a sticky residue in their wake.

Black Fungi

Another possible sign of an aphid infestation in large trees is the presence of black fungi.

As the sap sits on the tree’s leaves, it encourages the growth of black fungi. Fungal spores in the air will fall on the sap, at which point the fungi will begin to spread.

Sap Below the Tree

You should check around the base of the tree – particularly the area of the ground directly below the canopy – to see if there’s sap present.

When aphids feast on a tree’s sap, some of the sap will inevitably fall to the ground below. Therefore, the presence of sap below a tree may suggest that it’s infested with aphids.

Yellow Spots

The presence of yellow spots on a tree’s leaves may also indicate an aphid infestation.

Most aphids are yellow, so when they infest a tree, they look like yellow spots. When viewed up closed, you may even notice them moving. Regardless, if you see groups of yellow spots on a tree’s leaves, there’s a good chance that it’s suffering from an aphid infestation.

Curled Leaves

Perhaps one of the most common signs of an aphid infestation in large trees is curled leaves.

As aphids feast on a tree’s sap, they’ll chew through its leaves. Over time, this may cause the leaves to curl upward or downward.

Galls

Finally, you should inspect large trees in your landscape to see if they contain galls.

Like many other garden pests, aphids lay eggs to reproduce. When aphids lay eggs inside or on a tree, the tree may respond by producing large growths known as galls. The galls themselves are typically harmless, but they are indicative of an infestation.

The Woodsman Company offers tree planting, tree pruning and shrub trimming, tree removal and stump grinding as well as a tree wellness program.

If we can help with any of your tree care needs give us a call at 512-846-2535 or 512-940-0799 or

The post How to Spot an Aphid Infestation in Large Trees appeared first on Woodsman Tree Service.

Is your hometown currently experiencing a drought?

While some regions in the United States generate more rain than others, droughts can occur anywhere. Characterized by a prolonged period of little or no rain, droughts can wreak havoc on your lawn.

Unfortunately, you can’t control the weather, but there are ways to keep your lawn healthy during a drought.

Keep Mowing, But Raise the Blade

Contrary to popular belief, you shouldn’t stop mowing your lawn during a drought.

If you don’t mow it, invasive weeds will grow unchecked. Like grass, weeds require water. Many invasive weeds, however, consume less water than grass. Therefore, failure to mow your lawn during a drought will pave the way for weeds.

For a healthy lawn during a drought, you should continue to mow the grass but at a slightly higher blade setting.

Mulch the Grass Clippings

Rather than bagging the grass clippings when mowing your lawn, consider mulching them.

Most lawnmowers have two settings for the grass clippings: bag or mulch. Using the bag allows you to create a cleaner lawn by removing the cut grass clippings. During a drought, though, grass clippings can help to hydrate your lawn.

If you mulch the grass clippings back onto your lawn, they’ll absorb and hold moisture, some of which will be absorbed by the living grass.

Don’t Walk on Your Lawn

Try to avoid walking on your lawn as much as possible.

Lack of water will stress your lawn, and when stressed, your lawn will be more vulnerable to harm. Something as otherwise harmless as walking across your lawn during a drought could result in brown patches of dead or dying grass.

Furthermore, walking on your lawn during a drought will make the soil more compact, which restricts the amount of moisture it can hold.

Water During the Mornings and Evenings

As long as there’s not a water ban or restriction in your area, you can water your lawn to protect it from the effects of a drought.

Most experts recommend watering to a depth of about a half-inch every other week during a drought. The key thing to remember is that you should water during the mornings and evenings rather than in the middle of the day. If you water your lawn during the middle of the day, you’ll lose a substantial amount of water from evaporation.

Watering your lawn during the mornings and evenings, on the other hand, will result in less evaporation because there’s less sunlight.

The Woodsman Company offers tree planting, tree pruning and shrub trimming, tree removal and stump grinding as well as a tree wellness program.

If we can help with any of your tree care needs give us a call at 512-846-2535 or 512-940-0799 or

The post How to Keep Your Lawn Healthy During a Drought appeared first on Woodsman Tree Service.

Your dead tree may pose a harmful threat to your property and human life in the event of a disaster. Knowing the possibilities and consequences of keeping a dead tree in your yard can lead you to an informed decision about its fate.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered information on how to determine whether to keep or remove a dead in your yard and how it can be repurposed either way.

My Tree Is Dead

A tree, like every other living thing, will eventually die. What to do with it when it dies depends on the following factors:

Diseased Tree – If your tree met its demise due to disease, remove it from your yard. Diseases that infect and kill trees are highly transmissible to plants, shrubs, and other trees.

Insect Infested Tree – If your tree died from insect infestation problems, or became infested after it died, have that tree removed immediately. Insects, especially boring insects, can multiply quickly and spread even faster.

Root Rot – Many tree diseases attack the root system and typically occur in poorly-drained soil, causing root rot. Trees dying or dead from root rot can fall at any time, even in the mildest of weather conditions. Trees with this condition should be removed as quickly as possible.

Leaning Tree – If your dying or dead tree starts to lean, take immediate action to have it removed before it loses its center of gravity and falls. For example, a poplar tree that grew to over 100 feet high and weighed well over 10,000 pounds would obliterate whatever it landed on.

Overstory Trees – These are trees that reach or exceed 60 feet in height. Dead overstory trees should be removed to prevent catastrophic damages if they were to fall.

Understory Trees – These are trees that reach heights below 50 feet. In fact, these trees are generally between 12 and 20 feet tall. A dead understory tree can be left in place if:

• After a tree hazard assessment, it is found that the tree poses little to no threat to its surroundings.
• The tree remains disease free and free from infestation.
• Your municipality’s tree ordinance does not require its removal.

For more information about tree hazard assessments, visit toddsmariettatreeservices.com/why-do-i-need-tree-hazard-assessment/

Realistically, there are very few circumstances that support leaving a dead tree standing. However, if these circumstances permit, there is much you can do with the tree.

What To Do With My Dead Tree

Have the tree wholly removed by a professional tree service, unless a certified arborist declares your tree safe. There are many repurposing options for your tree in the following scenarios.

If your tree must be taken down and is free from infestation and disease, consider the following:

• Have the tree cut up for firewood.
• Have the tree turned into wood chips for use as organic mulch.
• Turn the tree into a part of your landscape. As it decomposes, it will provide shelter for wildlife, natural fertilizer for the earth below it, and bark eating animals will have a long-lasting food source.

If your tree poses no immediate threat and remains in place, it can be used for the following:

• A standing dead tree, known as a stag, can serve your local wildlife as a sanctuary.
• Paint and decorate your tree to become a conversation piece in your yard.
• Turn the tree into a bird and squirrel feeder (stick seeds and nuts to it using honey and/or peanut butter.
• Apply seasonal decorations to liven up your yard during holidays and events.

Tip: If you add lights to your tree, use an LED type light which generates minimal heat and make sure the lights are rated for outdoor use. As your dead tree dries out, it will naturally become more flammable.

Note: Some tree species like aspen or eucalyptus are self-pruning when living (they drop branches suddenly) and should not be left standing after dying. Once dead, self-pruning trees can pose a higher risk of personal injury or property damage as they lose their limbs.

For more ideas about recycling or repurposing a fallen tree, visit toddsmariettatreeservices.com/repurpose-recycle-leave-fallen-tree/

Dead Tree Removal

In this article, you discovered what factors determine the necessity to remove or the ability to keep a dead tree in your yard and what purpose it can serve.

By having your dead tree evaluated by an arborist, you can make an informed decision about the next part of the tree’s journey and purpose.

Your failure to address a dead tree in your yard may result in fines imposed by your municipality, the spread of an infestation or disease, and if the tree should fall, catastrophic damages to your property and/or wellbeing.

Sources:
gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/trees-and-shrubs/trees/removing-trees.html
blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/pinellasco/2020/01/29/the-living-dead-trees/
wdfw.wa.gov/species-habitats/living/backyard

The post Should I Remove That Dead Tree in My Yard? appeared first on http://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com.

Invasive tree roots can destroy your turf, buckle concrete, and quickly become a very costly nuisance. Knowing which tree species to avoid planting and how to deal with aggressive trees already on your property will save you time, money, and stress.

72tree.com gathered information on invasive tree roots, the damages they cause, how to stop them, and which species you should not plant.

What Are Invasive Tree Roots

Invasive tree roots quickly grow in search of water and nutrients, finding their way under walkways, driveways, building foundations, sidewalks, water lines, sewer pipes, etc. As these roots thicken, they can cause these structures to fracture and buckle.

A common trait of invasive plants and tree roots is that they are fast-growing. Once these roots find a water source, they take hold and continue spreading to find more water sources.

Invasive Tree Root Damage

Once invasive tree roots spread across your yard or landscape, all they need is a water source. When that water source is tapped into, the roots thicken and tear up your turf, while breaking through nearly everything they have grown beneath.

Among the most expensive damages, invasive tree roots can cause: when they grow under the foundation of your home.

Note: These roots don’t just break through concrete or asphalt, they can cause the earth surrounding them to heave upward.

Read 72tree.com/tree-roots-buckling-concrete-driveway/ to uncover the devastation these roots can cause and ways to repair the damage they cause.

How To Stop Invasive Tree Roots

Don’t plant tree species with invasive roots. If you inherited these trees with your property or were ill-advised when you purchased and planted a tree, here are some of the measures you can take to slow these roots down:

1. Install root barriers to a depth of 18 to 24 inches (the majority of tree roots are found within the top 18 inches of soil). You can install these barriers around young trees or around structures to stop or divert the direction of the roots. When installing barriers, allow enough space for tree roots to form a stable root plate. The root plate generally surrounds the trunk and extends to the tree’s drip line.

2. Root pruning is an option that should be done by an arborist. Pruning tree roots can leave the tree vulnerable to disease and infestation.

3. After planting a tree, provide it with frequent deep waterings to encourage its roots to grow deeper.

4. Plant trees in locations where they can achieve their full growth potential without interfering with structures and landscape features.

5. Make sure the tree you are planting is appropriate for your hardiness zone. Planting outside the tree’s zone may trigger its roots to become aggressive to supply it with enough moisture.

6. Often times, the only solution for invasive root problems is to have the tree removed and the stump ground.

Invasive Tree Root Species

The following is a brief list of tree species that have displayed invasive root tendencies, are high-maintenance, and short-lived (when compared to similar non-invasive species):

• Aspen (Populus)
• Eastern Cottonwood (Populus deltoides)
• Empress or Princess Tree (Paulownia tomentosa)
• English Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna)
• English Holly (Ilex aquifolium)
• English Laurel (Prunus laurocerasus)
• Golden Chain Tree (Laburnum)
• Horse Chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum)
• Mimosa (Albizia julibrissin)
• Norway Maple (Acer platanoides)
• Saltcedar (Tamarix ramosissima)
• Siberian elm (Ulmus pumila)
• Silver Maple (Acer saccharinum)
• Sweet Cherry (Prunus avium)
• Sweet Gum (Liquidambar styraciflua)
• Sycamore (Platanus occidentalis)
• Sycamore Maple (Acer pseudoplatanus)
• Tree of Heaven (Ailanthus altissima)
• Weeping Willow (Salix babylonica)
• White Mulberry (Morus alba)
• White Poplar (Populus alba)

Many of the trees listed above can grow to enormous proportions (in height and width) and likely are not appropriate for small to medium-sized yards and landscapes.

Regardless of the species, you would like to plant, do your homework on how it grows, where it grows, and problems others have had with it. You can also hire an arborist to assess your yard or landscape before planting the tree. This will help you give the tree a healthy beginning.

Read more about planting trees by visiting 72tree.com/tree-planting-guide/

Invasive Tree Roots

In this article, you discovered what invasive tree roots are, the damage they are capable of, what you can do to stop them, and several of the species to avoid.

By addressing invasive tree roots as early as possible, you can avoid significant damages to your property, water supply, sewage line, and your home’s foundation.

When you allow invasive tree roots to grow unchecked, you are inviting them to tear up your turf, destroy structures, and upheave the earth they grow in.

Sources:
mortonarb.org/trees-plants/tree-and-plant-advice/horticulture-care/tree-root-problems
selectree.calpoly.edu/right-tree-right-place#invasive
aces.nmsu.edu/ces/yard/2008/091108.html
extension.tennessee.edu/publications/Documents/SP628.pdf

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/how-to-avoid-invasive-tree-roots-landscape/

What are some things you can do to prepare the trees in your yard for spring?

Why not start with some spring cleaning of your yard? It’s that time of the year to walk around and pick up sticks and branches and dispose of them. After the winter months, the yard can get a little messy looking, so why not rake up messes? Do some weeding, too. Ideally, you’ll want to clear out the area within four feet of your tree trunks.

Look for Damage

Spring is also a good time to inspect your trees for damage from the winter. Look for broken or dead branches, as well as water/flood damage around your trees. It’s also important to check for signs of disease. If you don’t know what to look for, hire Big Foot Tree Service to come inspect your trees. If you have any rotting trees in your yard that might cause further damage to people or property, consider having Big Foot Tree Service remove them.

A Time to Lay Down Mulch

Do you mulch around your trees? Spring is a good time to mulch because mulch acts as a barrier on top of soil, and it protects the organic matter underneath– this makes it harder for things like weeds to grow there! If you haven’t added mulch in a while, spring’s a good time to add an extra layer of it for additional protection.

Trees Need a Haircut Too!

As winter ends and spring starts, it’s an ideal time to prune trees. Think of this as a haircut for a tree who hasn’t had one in many months. Prune away dead branches. If you’re not sure how to properly prune trees, Big Foot Tree Service can do the job for you.

Finally, it’s time for fertilizer– apply it at the base of trees in the springtime if you want to optimize growth during the upcoming months.

For more info, call Big Foot Tree Service of New Jersey at 973-885-8000.

This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com

Can’t seem to grow plump and juicy tomatoes to matter how much time you spend gardening?

The berries of the Solanum lycopersicum plant, tomatoes are a versatile vegetable that can be used in a variety of culinary dishes.

Of course, large tomatoes are preferable over small tomatoes.

If you’re tired of harvesting cherry-sized tomatoes, you should check out the five following tips to grow bigger tomatoes in your garden.

#1) Space at Least 2 Feet Apart

Don’t make the mistake of overcrowding your tomato plants.

Without an adequate amount of space, they won’t be able to develop plump and juicy tomatoes.

So, how far apart should you space your tomato plants?

While some varieties need more space than others, a good rule of thumb is to space tomato plants at least 2 feet apart from each other.

#2) Increase Sun Exposure

The amount of sunlight to which your tomato plants are exposed will affect their size.

As you may have guessed, tomato plants that are exposed to more sunlight produce bigger tomatoes than those exposed to less sunlight.

Sunlight triggers photosynthesis, thereby fueling the plants with more energy to produce bigger tomatoes.

By planting your tomatoes in an area or your garden or landscape that receives a substantial amount of sunlight, you’ll be rewarded with bigger tomatoes.

#3) Use a Trellis

Another simple tip to grow bigger tomatoes is to use a trellis.

Featuring interwoven boards, trellises are designed to accommodate “climbing” plants, including tomatoes.

As a tomato plant grows, it will develop vines that spider outwards. With a trellis nearby, the tomato plant will latch onto the structure, allowing it to grow vertically rather than horizontally.

#4) Add Mulch

Consider adding mulch around the base of your tomato plants.

Mulch is beneficial for all plants – and tomatoes are no exception. It helps to retain moisture, protects the soil from erosion and discourages the intrusion of weeds.

Just remember to use a sufficient amount of mulch so that it covers all the soil surrounding your tomato plants.

#5) Prune the Bottom

Pruning the bottom of your tomato plants can have a positive impact on their harvest size.

When you prune the bottom leaves of a tomato plant, you’ll encourage it to grow new leaves at the top.

This is important because the bottom leaves are susceptible to decay and disease. If you don’t remove a decaying or diseased leaf, it may spread to other parts of the plant.

The Woodsman Company offers tree planting, tree pruning and shrub trimming, tree removal and stump grinding as well as a tree wellness program.

If we can help with any of your tree care needs give us a call at 512-846-2535 or 512-940-0799 or

The post 5 Simple Tips to Grow Bigger Tomatoes appeared first on Woodsman Tree Service.