9 Common Tree Health Problems and Solutions

Trees get sick. Like any other living organism, a tree can fall ill for various reasons. If left to its own devices, it can eventually fall causing catastrophic damages.

When an otherwise healthy tree shows signs of illness or infestation, you must take action by eliminating the cause or calling on a certified arborist to evaluate the tree and offer a course of action.

The team of arborists at 72tree.com prepared a comprehensive list of 9 common tree health problems and their solutions.

Weather and Tree Health

Trees are affected by inconsistent weather patterns. The following demonstrates how weather impacts trees and how you can help them remain healthy.

1 – Drought:

One of the most common ailments of trees, symptoms of drought can be tricky. Sometimes, the signs won’t appear until as much as a year after the damage has been done. Those symptoms include:

•Drooping, wilting, and yellowing of leaves.

•Premature needle or leaf drop.

•Pronounced dieback.

•Thinning of the canopy.

•Deep cracks in the bark.

•Necrosis of leaves or browning of needles.

•Death of the tree.

Solution 1 – For planting new trees, make sure they are appropriate for the USDA Hardiness Zone in which you are located. If your area experiences occasional or frequent droughts, seek drought-resistant species.

Solution 2 – Water your trees regularly. New trees will require a deep watering once a week for the first two years (to establish its roots). In addition to watering, add a 3-inch layer of organic mulch around the tree to help the soil retain its moisture.

After two years and through its adult life, trees are very capable of finding water sources. However, throughout dry summer months and near the end of fall, weekly deep watering and mulching will help prevent drought problems.

Solution 3 – Prune back all cracked, dead or weakened tissue. Without pruning these troubled areas, the tree will become vulnerable to infection and infestation. Call on an arborist when pruning removes more than 25% of the tree’s canopy or mass. They can assess the tree and offer a course of action.

2 – Winter Burn:

Also known as desiccation, winter burn occurs primarily in evergreens and causes a discoloration of the foliage. Effects of winter burn are more pronounced where the tree is exposed to the sun and wind. This affliction requires the presence of the following three factors:

•Freezing temperatures

•Dry soil

•Wind

Solution – Provide your trees with weekly deep waterings through the end of fall and beginning of winter (before the ground freezes) and mulch the area of the root zone for the soil to retain moisture.

For trees that are highly exposed to the wind and sun, wrapping them with burlap will provide an effective barrier which can be removed as temperatures rise.

3 – Improper Pruning, Trimming, and Cutting:

There is a right way, and a right time to perform tree pruning, cutting, or trimming. When performed improperly, the tree may be left exposed to infection and infestation. When done at the wrong time, new growth may not have enough time to adapt before winter, further stressing the tree.

Solution – Know when to prune. Depending on the species of your tree, it may be better to prune in early spring, late fall, or even in the summer months. Use proper pruning or cutting methods when removing limbs, branches, or stems.

Watch this video to learn more about proper pruning techniques.

Tree Insect Infestation

For the most part, healthy trees can stave off insect infestations. However, when a tree’s health is weakened, or there is an increase in the insect population, no tree is off limits.

4 – Insects on Leaves and Bark:

Insects such as aphids, inchworms, bagworms, spider mites, lace bugs, and tree scale are common and relatively easy to manage.

Solution – Apply insecticidal soap, neem oil, or a horticultural oil directly on the area of the infestation.

5 – Boring Insects:

Insects such as the Emerald Ash Borer, Japanese Beetle, Southern Pine Beetle, and Ambrosia Beetle are more complicated to control. You can identify boring insect activity by seeing “sawdust” from their boring activity and the entry hole they create when entering the tree.

Note: Do not inject insecticides, poisons, or other substances into boring insect entry holes. The chemical may end up further damaging the tree leaving it more susceptible to infestation and death.

Solution 1 – Prune back branches and stems that have been infested and destroy them to prevent further spreading. If more than 25% of the tree’s foliage or mass must be removed, seek the assistance of a certified arborist.

Solution 2 – When the infestation is in the trunk of the tree, call an arborist to evaluate the damage and determine a safe approach to halting the infestation.

Solution 3 – Prevent infestations by keeping your trees healthy. When you hear about an outbreak in your area, treat your trees with a bark insecticidal spray to deter the insects from making your tree its host.

Tree Fungal Diseases

Most fungal diseases make their way into a tree through the roots and open wounds. Once a tree is widely infected, it becomes challenging to control the fungi and will often result in the removal of the tree.

6 – Fungal Infection (internal)

The most alarming sign of fungal trouble is when mushrooms grow on the trunk or branches. Since they require decaying matter to develop, there is a serious issue at play.

Note: The introduction of herbicides to a wounded tree or beneath the bark will only serve to accelerate the death of the tree.

Solution 1 – Prune back and destroy affected foliage, limbs, and branches. Again, when more than 25% of the tree’s foliage or mass must be removed, seek the assistance of a certified arborist. The removal of the tree may be the only way to keep your other trees from being infected.

Solution 2 – Properly prune your healthy trees (or have them pruned) to keep them healthy. A poorly pruned tree is more susceptible to both insect infestation and fungal disease.

7 – Fungal Infection (external)

The wind, birds or insects often carry spores of fungi and pathogens from tree to tree. Cankers, fire blight, rust disease, powdery mildew, and many others are common in the spring and summertime.

Solution – Carefully prune back and destroy affected foliage and apply a fungicidal spray to the affected and surrounding areas. Surrounding trees and shrubs should all undergo treatment as well.

Watch this video to learn about pathogens such as fire blight and cankers which affect tree bark and foliage.

Tree Problems Caused by People and Machinery

All of the threats mentioned above aside, people pose the most significant threat to a tree’s livelihood either by lack of knowledge or accident.

8 – Soil Compaction:

The land that surrounds a tree (especially under its canopy) contains the majority of the roots that draw water for the tree. These roots grow within the top 12 to 18 inches of soil. When this area is compacted, these roots suffocate and die, severely weakening the tree.

Trees compromised by soil compaction are at a heightened risk of toppling in a storm or severe weather event, as their roots are no longer effectively able to anchor them to the ground. Many times, no storm is required, the tree will eventually succumb to its own weight and fall on its own.

Solution – Never drive or park any vehicles underneath a tree’s canopy. Likewise, never store heavy equipment, or erect tool sheds under a tree.

In most municipalities nationwide, tree protection ordinances mandate that protective barriers be placed around trees on construction sites to deter such activities.

The majority of those same ordinances impose heavy fines and replanting requirements known as a recompense for damaged or removed trees.

9 – Lawn Mowers, Motorized Equipment, and Bark Damage:

Below the bark of a tree and outer layer of roots, there is a thin layer of cells called the “phloem” which is the conduit for nutrients traveling up and down the tree.

When a tree’s bark is damaged, not only is the tree susceptible to infection and infestation, that flow of nutrients is interrupted and if the damage is around the majority or entirety of the trunk, the tree will be girdled and die.

Solution 1 – Do not allow lawn mowers and other equipment to damage protruding roots or the bark of the tree.

Solution 2 – For protruding roots, either raise the ground level to bury them, or carefully prune them. If you choose to prune the roots, call on a tree professional for detailed instruction or to do the job. Just cutting them out may result in the decline of the tree’s health and its death.

Solution 3 – If the bark of a tree is dried, cracked, or knocked loose, DO NOT remove it. Call an arborist to evaluate the tree’s situation.

Healthy Trees and Arborists

All arborists would agree that healthy, well cared for trees are capable of resisting most infestations and illnesses on their own. However, when a tree does present signs of trouble, knowing what to do can mean the difference between life and death for the tree.

Whether the troubles come from weather, insect, fungi, or people, the solutions are usually simple when detected and treated early. In many cases, to prevent the spreading of a pathogen or the demise of the tree, a certified arborist should be called in to assess the situation and determine a safe course of action.

When your trees show signs of trouble, doing nothing or hesitating to correct the problem may result in the decline of the tree’s health or even its abrupt death.

Sources:
https://www.treesaregood.org/treeowner/planthealthcare
http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems/environmental/winter-injury/desiccation-or-winter-burn.aspx
https://www.arborday.org/trees/health/issues.cfm

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/9-common-tree-health-problems-solutions/

Azaleas are one of the most beautiful perennial shrubs you can have in your yard. They are also one of the most poisonous to people and their pets, yet they remain one of the South’s favorites to plant.

Planting azaleas in your Marietta Georgia yard will give a springtime color show with their signature blooms year after year. Closely related to rhododendrons, this easy to care for shrub is a slow grower but well worth the effort and wait.

The team at toddsmariettatreeservices.com collected the following planting, blooming, toxicology, and care information for those wanting to add azaleas to their yard or landscape.

Azalea Information

Azaleas are a member of the genus Rhododendron, which comprises well over 800 species and upwards of 10,000 named selections. Azaleas thrive in USDA Hardiness Zones 4 through 9 and are capable of reaching several feet in height and width depending on the species.

Rhododendrons and Azaleas – While the two belong to the same family (Ericaceae), it is not difficult to tell them apart. Azaleas have much smaller leaves and funnel-shaped blooms, while rhododendrons have bell-shaped flowers and much larger leaves.

Evergreen or Deciduous – Depending on the species, azaleas can be evergreen or deciduous shrubs. Those of the deciduous species will lose their foliage and begin dormancy in mid to late fall.

Spring Flowers – Azelias bloom in early spring and continue to do so through late spring. Varieties such as the encore azalea will bloom a second time, extending the blooming period into the summer.

Planting and Caring for Azaleas

Planted in the right location and given the proper care, azaleas will thrive and will provide onlookers with a springtime show of color year after year.

Planting Season – In most areas, fall and spring are the best times to plant azaleas. In colder regions such as USDA Hardiness Zones 4 and 5, planting may occur in summertime. In warmer areas like zone 9, planting may even happen in the winter.

Planting Location – Azalea sun tolerance varies by species and selection. When planting azaleas, look for areas that are partly shaded, near hedges, under tree canopies, or the east and north side of a home or structure. Locations sheltered from heavy winds are best.

Soil Type and pH – Well-drained, humus-rich, moisture-retentive soil offers the ideal conditions for growth. Soil with heavy clay or sandy properties needs significant amounts of organic material, such as compost added to it to provide the same conditions.

Azaleas thrive in acidic soil. A pH level of 4.5 to 6.0 should be maintained to provide optimal health and growth conditions.

Planting Instructions – One of the keys to successfully growing azaleas is proper planting. The following will help you get it right:

• Dig a hole 8 to 10 inches deep.
• The hole should be three times as wide as the root ball.
• Mix in copious amounts of organic material to the removed soil.
• Add enough of the mixed soil back to the hole so that the top of the root ball is approximately 2” above ground level.
• Replace and mound the amended soil in the hole until level with the edge of the root ball.

When planting in soil with high clay content, make the hole four to five times wider than the root ball and plant the azalea so that the top of the root ball is 3 to 4 inches above ground level.

When planting in sandy soil, the top of the root ball should be level with the surrounding land.

Watering Your Azaleas – After planting azaleas, water them thoroughly. For the first 18 months after planting, avoid frequent short watering. Deep watering at least once per week will keep the root ball from drying and allow for better root growth.

During late fall be sure to frequently deep water your azaleas and all other deciduous plants and trees. They handle the winter months and dormancy much better when well hydrated.

Fertilizers – Early spring and early summer are the best times to apply organic fertilizers. Avoid the use of chemical fertilizers as azaleas are not as nutritionally needy as other plant species.

Do not fertilize after mid-summer. Doing this will encourage new growth, which will not have time to “harden” before the winter months.

Mulch – After deep watering a newly planted azalea, apply a 3-inch layer of porous organic mulch around the plant. Keep the mulch 2 to 3 inches from the stem to avoid rotting and decay.

Reapply mulch in late fall, maintaining the 3-inch depth, thus keeping the roots sheltered from the cold or freeze.

Pruning – For small or younger azaleas, tip pruning in mid to late spring will encourage thicker and more compact growth.

When pruning more mature azaleas, do not remove more than one-third of the foliage. Removal such as this will stress the plant and leave it vulnerable to infestation and disease. If heavy pruning is needed, do it in annual stages allowing the plant to recover between each stage.

As pruning activities encourage new growth, do not prune after mid-summer.

Toxicology of Azaleas

Like the rhododendron, azaleas are highly toxic. The leaves and nectar contain andromedotoxins which act to lower the blood pressure of the person or animal that consumed it.

Mad Honey – In parts of Turkey, bees are deliberately fed nectar from azaleas and rhododendrons to produce what is known as “mad honey” or “Deli Bal.” This occasionally lethal treat contains a naturally occurring neurotoxin called grayanotoxin which may result in blurred vision, numbness, nausea, fainting, seizures, and in rare cases, even death.

Grayanotoxin Poisoning – If you suspect that a child (or adult) has consumed azalea leaves, stems, or flowers, seek immediate medical attention. Depending on the quantity consumed, symptoms such as respiratory distress, hypotension, bradycardia, constricted pupils, salivation and muscle twitching, or seizure may occur.

If your pets have consumed the leaves, stems, or flowers, seek veterinary assistance immediately. Symptoms from grayanotoxin poisoning include vomiting, depression, diarrhea, and anorexia.

If you suspect that your pet has consumed a poisonous plant or substance, you can call the ASPCA’s Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 or visit https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control

Insect Infestation and Illness

Insects and diseases tend to avoid vigorous plants. However, when azaleas are stressed, they may fall victim to lace bugs or Phytophthora.

Lace Bugs – We do not recommend the use of insecticides. They can kill off the lace bug’s predators leaving the plant defenseless against them. Insecticidal soaps or neem oil sprayed on the plant every two weeks is an effective measure in controlling this pest.

Phytophthora – This soil-borne fungus thrives in poorly drained soil and is very difficult to treat. Symptoms of Phytophthora fungus infection are:

• Reduced growth.
• Any new growth will appear smaller than usual.
• Leaves will shrivel or droop.
• The bark at the base will turn dark red or brown.

Protecting azaleas from this pathogen begins in the planting stage. Avoid planting in poorly drained soil and keep your plant healthy. Pathogens like this are less likely to affect healthy plants.

Once infected, your best course of action may be to remove the entire plant and the soil it grew in, destroying or disposing of both. Any attempts to prune affected regions of the plant may serve only to propagate the spread of the pathogen to other plants.

Before replanting in that location, it should be treated with a fungicide and verified that other plants in the same area are not afflicted. Remember that this is a fast-moving root fungus that thrives in poorly drained soil. Adding organic material to the soil before any planting will help protect the roots of your plants.

Azalea Care for A Beautiful Marietta Georgia Landscape

Azaleas can be a gorgeous addition to any landscape. However, before planting them, it is vital to know not only what you are planting, but also how to plant it and care for it.

In this article, we’ve discussed how to properly plant and water azaleas, as well as how to choose the right location for them. You’ve learned about their toxicology and how the consumption of the plant by animals or children may lead to serious health problems up to and including potential death. Finally, we’ve presented how to treat and contain instances of infestation and illness.

Without the proper planting and care, your azaleas will struggle to reach maturity and become susceptible to infestation and disease. By following the above guidance during and after planting, your plant will respond with robust growth and beautiful blooms in the spring.

Sources:
https://www.azaleas.org/wp-content/uploads/attachments/Azalea_Care_Flier.pdf
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3404272/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Azalea

https://plus.google.com/+Toddsmariettatreeservices

The post Azalea Planting and Care for Your Marietta Yard appeared first on http://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com.

Trees lend a beauty to our yards that smaller plants do not. They create shade for a more pleasant time outside and attract wildlife which adds to our overall enjoyment. Trees become part of our family, creating memories as they are always there in pictures and images in our minds (tire swings and treehouses, parties in the backyard). Many can live a very long time, depending on the type. However, there may come a time when a tree must be removed in order to sustain your property.

Here are ten reasons to part with our leafy friends:

1. The tree is dead or dying. A dead tree is an eyesore can lower the resale value of your home as well as detracting from the overall appeal of your lot. When a tree ages, old bark will fall off on its own and eventually be replaced by a new layer of bark if the tree is healthy. If new bark does not reappear and areas of smooth wood remain, this can be an indicator your tree’s health is on the decline. One of the best ways to determine if a tree is dead is the tree scratch test. Just beneath the dry, outer layer of bark in a tree’s trunk lies the cambium layer of bark. In a living tree, this is green; in a dead tree, it is brown and dry. There are more indicators in our April Blog. Of course, it is best to have an expert look at your tree before making a decision. Red’s Tree Service is happy to examine your trees to determine if any need to be pruned or removed. When trees are taken out and the stumps ground down, you can replace them with different kinds of plants or just enjoy more open area giving your yard a whole new look.

2. Tree is unhealthy. You may notice that top of tree branches are dying back or the trunk is showing signs of decay. Look for cracks in the main trunks or leaders. Disease or insect infestation will ultimately kill the tree and can spread to other trees in your lot. There may also be structural problems, such as interior decay that is not noticeable from the exterior. Checking the base and main branches of your trees regularly can sometimes give a clue to problems inside (for example, sawdust-like piles at the base of the trunk may be evidence of insects).   

3. Tree is leaning in a dangerous direction, like toward your house, driveway, deck or children’s play area. Trees usually do not grow straight, and a little lean is normal. But if your tree is starting to look like The Leaning Tower of Pisa because of poor weight distribution or anchor root damage, it is likely unstable and needs removal or stabilization. Here are a couple of indicators:

– Exposed roots around the base of the tree

– Cracked or heaving soil, especially on the side opposite the lean

4. Tree becomes severely damaged by a storm or flooding especially if the roots are pulled out of the ground. Our specialists can examine the tree to determine if it can be saved or must be removed.

5. Trees or the roots are growing too close to structures such as your house, utility lines or other structures. Roots can cause issues to plumbing, underground wiring, and foundations. Roots that surface above the ground can create uneven lawns that are difficult to walk on potentially causing tripping or falling. Do not forget about stump removal which helps to lessen continued growth of roots and created an even surface for replanting if desired.

6. Obstructed view. Sometimes pruning is not enough to clear out the area that is blocking your windows (or your neighbor’s view) so the whole thing needs to come down. Some cities have ordinances concerning obstruction of street signs and neighboring lots.

7. The tree has become too large for its location and poses a threat to other plants around it, including inhibiting your lawn growth or other trees or a danger if it should fall or drop branches. The tree might also be in the way of construction or will be mortally damaged by heavy equipment.

8.The tree drops troublesome leaves, sap, seeds, and/or branches. Debris on lawns can severely damage mowers.  These particles can also lead to brown spots that occur in the same area of the lawn, year after year especially during heat stress and drought. Residue from leaves and falling sap can discolor driveways or leaves and branches can get caught in wheel wells of cars. Of course, it is also unsightly requiring constant, tiresome cleanup.

9. There is significant crowding among trees on your property. If you see branches of separate trees overlapping above, it probably means that the roots are tangling below ground, effectively strangling each other in a struggle to survive. All trees need ground space for their roots to absorb nutrients and water from the soil and the roots are driven to spread in search of these things.

10. A change in your landscaping design. Trees require a lot of space and water, and if you desire a smaller garden, adding things like water features or xeriscaping will lead to different kinds of vegetation (or less). Creating a dining space outside is another popular trend that requires clearing out an area that currently has trees or shrubs especially if you want to put in a flooring surface, built-in barbeque or fire pit.

The dangerous work of tree removal is best left to experts! It is important to hire reputable, experienced service to remove your trees. Red’s Tree Service offers free estimates for tree trimming and cares in addition to removal of trees, and stump grinding.  If you have any trees that you are considering having removed, call us at (901)-231-7733 to get the process started!!

This post first appeared on https://redstreeservice.com

Much like a job, a family, or even your favorite sports team, trees can be uprooted and safely relocated. Typical reasons for tree relocation are when they grow too close to buildings or within areas that don’t provide enough sunlight.

However, if you wish to relocate a tree in Portland, there are a few things to know, like what you can do, what you can’t do, the costs, and even if you’re allowed to do it in the first place.

Common Tree Relocation Questions: What You Can and Cannot Do in Portland

Portland’s tree code includes measures that preserve trees and ensure new ones are planted when others are moved. It can get a bit tricky when acquiring permits and for determining when they’re necessary. We’ve highlighted some of the most important points below:

• Street trees need a permit. A street tree is when 50% of the tree’s trunk is in the public’s right of way. If this is the case, you’ll absolutely need a permit to relocate it.
• Yard trees may require a permit. Certain zoning exceptions exist, and permits may not always be required. Permits are typically granted for trees which are dead or dying. You’ll need a permit if the tree’s diameter is over 12 inches.  How to measure tree diameter: A tree’s diameter measurement begins 4.5 feet off the ground. Wrap a measuring tape around the trunk and divide the number by 3.14.

• Replanting afterwards. Once a tree is removed, it’s often required to plant a new one in its stead. If replanting is not feasible, then a mitigation fee might be applied (this keeps the city’s tree canopies in balance). We can let you know if a mitigation plan is required and can assist with helping you set one up.
• Public safety reigns supreme. If a tree poses a public safety concern, then a permit for removal will be granted.
• Heed the permits. Portland does not joke with its fines. Removing a tree without a permit could result in a fine up to $1,000–or $100 per inch in tree diameter.

If permits do not require a city-led inspection, they can be typically issued within 5 business days. If your situation requires an inspection, you might wait 3-4 weeks after submitting the application. This waiting period could depend on the urgency of your case as well as the inspection team’s current workload.

Tree Removal Costs

If you’re all set for relocating your tree, you’ll probably need to know how much it costs. This will depend on a few factors:

• Tree size: Cost varies based on tree height as well as crown spread. You can perform the height measurement yourself, or use this app. For a ballpark number—if the tree taller than one story, it will likely cost over $1,000 for removal. Tree crown measurement is a bit more difficult to figure—we are happy to visit your property to help measure.
• Account for overhang: If a tree is within 10 feet of your home, it will likely cost upwards of $2,000 to remove (this accounts for potential overhang over your home).
• Difficulty of removal: Is the tree in the front or back yard? Is it on flat ground or an incline? These can raise or lower the cost. Dead or sick trees typically cost more than healthy ones, as they are more difficult to remove.
• Time of year: Warmer months understandably mean heavier business for tree removal companies—so if you wait until “off-season”, i.e. winter, you may get a reduced cost.

Relocating is Entirely Possible

Tree relocation in Portland obviously brings some caveats. However, with permits in place and a proper arborist in tow, you should get your tree removed with minimal difficulty.

Our team at Urban Forest Professionals are best suited for any tree relocation jobs in Portland. For any questions at all, or a free estimate, please call our office at 503-226-7143.

This post first appeared on https://www.urbanforestprofessionals.com

The cost of removing a tree in Oregon can vary based on many things. One of the main factors however is the time of year in which the tree is removed.

The short answer: tree removal typically costs much less during the winter or spring months. Below we’ll explain why, as well as other things to watch out for and consider as you seek estimates.

Cost can vary on company’s workload

Supply and demand often plays a big role for many company’s pricing. The need for tree removal is typically lower during winter and spring, so tree companies may offer lower rates to ensure steady business.

February and March have been statistically the cheaper months for tree removal—otherwise known as “dormant season” for trees. This is when the leaves have fallen and trees are easier to clear.

Removal during these months is also advantageous for the environment. The colder ground means the surrounding Earth is less impacted during removal. Frozen ground can keep the nearby vegetation in place during the extraction.

On the other hand, tree companies can get super busy during late spring and summer; i.e., the stormy or windy months. This is when places may need emergency services.

Watch out for super low bids

Most reputable tree companies have licenses and modern equipment to maintain; so, if rates are suspiciously and noticeably low, we advise caution: it could mean the company is skipping costs in an important area. The lowest cost is not always the best cost.

Call Urban Forest Pros for Tree Removal in Oregon

Despite “busy” or “dormant” seasons, you can get trees removed at any time of the year. It just may impact the cost.

If you do have trees that need removal, we at Urban Forest Pro can offer not only competitive rates but also an unparalleled level of professional, safe, and efficient work.

Call our Portland office at 503-226-7143 for a free estimate.

This post first appeared on https://www.urbanforestprofessionals.com

Lagerstroemia, known as crepe myrtle or crape myrtle is a tree that thrives in US Hardiness zones 7 through 10, making it a perfect choice for your Alpharetta or Roswell yard. The genus came to the US over 200 years ago and got its name from the Swedish merchant Magnus von Lagerstrom.

The most popular species is L. indica. It is a native of southern China and Thailand. For centuries, crepe myrtles have been grown in Asia as ornamentals.

Of all the southern trees and plants, crepe myrtles are among the most desired for their outstanding summer display of blooms and their brilliant fall colors. 72 Tree, Seed & Land Co. prepared an extensive article covering the characteristics, environment, and care these trees need to flourish and light up your landscape.

Are Crepe Myrtles Trees or Bushes

The Lagerstroemia genus contains approximately 50 species of trees and shrubs both deciduous and evergreen. So, this species can indeed grow as a tree or shrub, making it ideal for hedges, container planting, or even in groupings along your landscape.

Height – The L. indica species possesses cultivars and hybrids that remain under 5ft in height, some that reach 11 to 15ft in height, and those that tower over the others, reaching heights of 20 to 30ft.

Canopy – At maturity, the canopy can reach from 6ft to well beyond 15ft depending on the species.

Trunk – Crape Myrtles are known to have multiple trunks with beautiful bark which exfoliates in the winter months. Be cautious when pruning or working around these trees, their wood is somewhat brittle, and the trunks may easily crack when put under pressure.

Lifespan – When planted in full sun and fertile soil, Crepe Myrtles can live well beyond 50 years. In fact, dotted along the southeastern landscape, it is common to come across specimens over 100 years old.

Uses – Depending on the species, these trees work as shrubs, hedges, container plants, landscape groupings, and in some cities as street trees.

If you decided you prefer to plant an evergreen instead, visit 72tree.com/3-evergreen-species-alpharetta-roswell-yard/ for some great candidates.

Crepe Myrtle Tree Care

About two years after planting, these species become very tolerant to drought, heat, humidity, and will do well in nearly any well-drained soil. They become robust enough to resprout even after being completely frozen.

Crepe myrtles are low maintenance. However, you still need to do some planning before planting and a bit of upkeep as they grow.

Planting – Location is critical when planting crepe myrtles. Select a spot that has well-drained soil and gets full sun. Planting in partial or full shade will significantly reduce its ability to flower and may reduce its lifespan as well.

Crepe myrtles have a shallow and very fibrous root system which can extend 3 to 4 times the diameter of the canopy. As with all trees, the planting location should be at least 5 to 10 feet away from cement pathways, foundations, and sidewalks.

Pruning – Very little pruning is required. Improper pruning disrupts the development of a robust branching system and will leave your specimen deformed and vulnerable to weather, pests, and fungi.

If there is a need to prune, it should occur in late winter or early spring to correct the following:

• Removing crossed or rubbing branches.

• Removing suckers from the base.

• Branches growing inward (toward the center).

• Canopy thinning for better air circulation.

• Gradually remove side branches up to 4 or 5 feet as the tree grows.

• Reducing multi-trunk trees to a single trunk (not recommended).

Summer pruning can include:

• Removing old seed pods and spent flowers (removing them after the first bloom encourages further blooming).

• Removing small twig-like growth.

All crepe myrtle species bloom on new wood. The proper and minimal pruning of your tree will encourage this growth and promote a beautiful summer blooming season.

If you are pruning your tree because it has gotten too large for its location, you’ve planted the wrong species.

Watering – Provide newly planted crepe myrtles with a deep and thorough watering. Then, water your tree up to 4 or 5 times per week during hot weather or when planted in sandy soil. When the tree is dormant or during cold weather, your tree will need watering once per week.

Blooms – As previously mentioned, all crepe myrtles bloom on new wood. After the first bloom, removing the spent flowers will encourage further blooming in the season.

Tree Pests and Disease That Attack Crepe Myrtles

These trees like all others on your landscape are susceptible to infestations, disease, and animal damage. The best defense against these threats is to keep your tree(s) healthy, plant, prune, and water them properly and they will be less likely to suffer damage from the following:

Pests that infest crepe myrtles:

Japanese Beetle – This insect is approximately 1/2 inch in length, its body is oval and metallic green, and its wings are copper in color.

Larvae remain underground where they consume grass and young tree roots. Adult beetles feed on the tissues of the leaves and are most active on trees in full sun during the warmest part of the day.

A Japanese beetle infestation can cause severe damage to all of the trees on your landscape. Traps, pyrethrins, and neem oil can help curtail a beetle outbreak. However, this is an urgent situation which needs to be evaluated by a certified arborist.

Crape Myrtle Aphid – These insects are yellowish-green and have black spots on their abdomen. They measure from a sixteenth to an eighth of an inch in length.

Both nymphs and adults feed on the underside of the foliage causing it to droop and yellow leaf spots to appear. Buds, flowers, and branch tips can all be damaged as well from their feeding.

Sooty mold will appear on the leaves when there is an aphid infestation. This mold is a byproduct of the aphid’s excrement and will disappear once the outbreak ends.

Watch this video to learn how to eliminate aphids and “black” sooty mold on your crape myrtle.

When a crape myrtle aphid infestation occurs, apply a 2oz. to 1 gallon solution of molasses and water to the affected areas and release ladybugs around the tree. Neem oil is also very useful in controlling aphids.

Fungi that attack crepe myrtles:

Powdery Mildew – This fungus appears as a white powdery substance and can spread very quickly if not handled properly.

It is worth noting that trees planted in full sun are not typically bothered by this fungus.

To control powdery mildew, spray a fungicide on the affected area and its surroundings.

Sooty Mold – This mold has a tar-like appearance and is a result an aphid infestation (see above).

Bark Shedding – Don’t be alarmed. While it may seem that something has infected your tree, there is nothing wrong with it. Crepe myrtles, once reaching adulthood will naturally exfoliate their bark in winter months, revealing the magnificent color variations of its trunk.

Crepe Myrtles and Summer Blooms

If you are looking for an incredible addition to your Alpharetta yard or landscape, crepe myrtles are a must have. Besides being low maintenance, they will put on a colorful show every summer.

An added plus in the summer is when the blooms attract birds seeking refuge and nesting and offer their nectar and pollen to the bees.

Sources:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lagerstroemia
https://www.leugardens.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/Crepe_myrtles.pdf
https://crapemyrtletrails.org/crape-myrtle-history/
http://www.pcmg-texas.org/images/trees/crape_myrtle_pest.pdf
https://crapemyrtletrails.org/pest-control/

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/crape-myrtle-southern-tree-your-alpharetta-roswell-yard/

Simply put, trees grow up, trees grow out, and trees grow down. In one form or another, trees are always growing throughout their lifecycle, and do so until their death.

Knowing how they grow can improve your landscaping and gardening practices. Our team at Todd’s Marietta Tree Services constructed practical information below about tree growth and will dispel some common myths.

Do Trees Grow from the Bottom Up?

Yes. Trees do grow from the bottom up in the sense that the roots are transporting the “growth” building blocks up the trunk, through the limbs, and to the extremities of the tree.

However, the answer is NO when considering that tree growth occurs from its extremities. Consider the following:

Root Growth – Roots grow outward and down from their tips (similar to how limbs and branches grow longer). As roots grow and age, they thicken (much like the trunk does).

The roots of a tree are able to spread out and grow far beyond the tree’s dripline (the outer edges of the canopy).

Root activities almost exclusively support the growth of a tree. Four primary functions of tree roots are:

• To seek out sources of water and nutrients.
• To store glucose in the colder months (when growth is all but halted).
• To participate in the underground ecosystem through mycorrhizal associations or root grafting.
• To anchor the tree to the ground.

Trunk Growth – The trunk doesn’t stretch or grow upward. It does thicken though, and it adds two rings as each year passes. One light ring during the growth period and one dark ring as it slows down for winter or dormancy.

When looking at a cross-section of a cut down tree, you can tell how old the tree was when it died by counting one light and one dark ring for each year from the outside inward.

A common misconception is that tree trunks stretch upward as they get taller, when in fact they do not. If you were to pin a medal on the trunk at exactly five feet up from the root flare, it would still be exactly five feet up from the root flare fifty years or one hundred years later.

Branch and Limb – Growth in length happens within meristem tissues located at the tips of branches, stems, and twigs. These specialized tissues facilitate the upward growth of the tree, as well as the expansion of the tree’s canopy.

Branches and limbs grow in diameter through the vascular cambium within the bark. Very similar to how a trunk grows in diameter.

Do Trees Grow All Year?

While different species of trees will follow slightly different growth patterns, the answer is yes. Trees are continuously growing throughout the year.

Springtime – Foliage, limbs, and branches grow at high speeds in the spring.

Summertime – This is when trunk and limb diameter growth takes place.

Fall and Wintertime – As the trunk, branches, limbs, and foliage stop growing, the roots continue to expand outward and down throughout the coldest months of the year.

How Do Trees Get Their Mass?

It’s principally carbon. Without carbon, trees could not exist. Every time you exhale, you are providing the building blocks for a tree’s mass. Carbon dioxide (captured from the air) and water (sent to the leaves by the roots) bond together within the leaves of a tree to form carbon molecules.

During photosynthesis, energy from sunlight is transformed into chemical energy and captured within the bonds of those carbon molecules.

Those carbon molecules along with hydrogen and oxygen comprise the tree’s food source known as glucose. Each glucose molecule contains six oxygen atoms, six carbon atoms, and twelve hydrogen atoms.

Once a tree has satisfied the activities which keep it alive (cellular respiration), whatever carbon molecules (glucose) are left over are used in the growth process, adding to its mass.

Carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, sulfur, and phosphorus together comprise nearly all of a tree’s mass.

Tree Growth, Sunlight, Balance, and Longevity

While there are many facets that comprise a tree’s mechanisms, it is sunlight that is the driving force behind it all. Throughout the entire lifespan of a tree, it will depend on the sun for energy to grow and thrive.

Tree growth is symmetrical by nature. Throughout the life of a tree, its growth is consistently seeking balance. Trees will not grow beyond their capacity to support themselves. When stressed they will shed leaves, flowers, fruit and even drop entire branches.

Speaking of thriving, the lifespan of a tree depends primarily on its species and the environment it is growing in. While some palms live to about sixty years old, some pine species make it to well over five thousand years old. And there is increasing evidence that an ancient clonal grove of aspen trees called “Pando” is upwards of eighty thousand years old.

Sources:
https://projects.ncsu.edu/project/treesofstrength/treefact.htm
http://www.dof.virginia.gov/infopubs/_forest-facts/FF-How-A-Tree-Grows_pub.pdf
https://askabiologist.asu.edu/questions/what-oldest-living-thing-earth

https://plus.google.com/+Toddsmariettatreeservices

The post How Do Trees Grow? appeared first on http://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com.

Deciding to have a tree removed from your property is not always a tough decision. In fact, as long as you have a professional team like Red’s Tree Service handle the project for you, the actual removal of the tree is the easy part. Where it starts to get tricky is when you have to decide on whether or not to have the tree stump that is been left behind removed. It is important for homeowners to understand the problems that can arise from leaving a stump where it is, and the benefits that can come with professional stump removal. We generally advise all stumps be removed, and we recommend you do not try to do it on your own. Read more below on why you should remove tree stumps from your property, and why you should leave it to the pros!

Stumps can cause damage to your property

Even after you have a tree cut down, the roots can continue to grow for a while. Tree roots, in general, are thirsty and will tend to seek out water wherever they can get it. Unfortunately for homeowners, that can sometimes mean growing into pipes and causing them to burst, leading to a loss of water supply, flooding, and expensive repairs or replacements. Aggressive roots can cause sidewalks to buckle and create a number of other problems around the home, most of which go unseen or unnoticed until it is too late. Having a tree stump removed as quickly as possible reduces the chances of its roots causing problems.

Stumps can be a safety hazard

Unless you are extremely sentimental or very creative, a dead tree stump on your property has few practical uses. It is, however, a potential safety hazard, particularly if you have children that like to play in the yard. Not only can it be easy for people to trip over it or tumble into it, but roots growing out of control can also cause slips and stumbles. For safety’s sake, removing tree stumps from an active area is usually your best bet for safety’s sake. 

Stumps take up extra space

Any area on your property with a tree stump is effectively a dead space, without much use to anyone. Removing the stump opens that space up for just about anything you can imagine. You can leave it open, plant another tree, put in a swing set, or add a birdbath. Without a stump taking up space, you have a whole range of options to choose from.

Stumps can attract invasive species

Living trees naturally attract a variety of animals, birds, and beneficial insects like ladybugs and honeybees. The wildlife that shows up once a tree has been removed, however, is not anything you will want to roll out the welcome mat for. Dead tree stumps are inviting to pests like termites and carpenter ants. Once they use up all the limited resources of the tree stump, they will seek a new place to colonize, and sometimes that will be a healthy tree or hedge nearby, putting it at risk. Besides unwanted insects, tree stumps may also start sprouting fungi, a number of which are toxic and can pose a threat to pets and small children.

Stumps can reduce the value of your property

Planting trees or purchasing a property with trees is one of the best things you can do for your health and well-being. They attract wildlife, offer privacy, are a beautiful source of fresh air and stress relief, and provide shade and coolness. For these reasons, having a tree can often add a boost to the value of your property.

Dead tree stumps, on the other hand, may have the opposite effect. As an eyesore with no real practical use, your home could be less valuable while a stump is sitting on your property. Removing that stump and replacing it with a healthy new tree could help the value of your home go right back up again.

The best way to remove a stump in Memphis is Red’s Tree Service

Properly removing a tree stump is a difficult task because you are fighting a deep system of roots under the surface. DIY removal methods often use toxic chemicals that can last for months or renting or buying specific tools to aid in the process. When you take into consideration the hazards, cost, time, and effort of removing a stump yourself, you will soon realize it is easier, safer, and more efficient to have a professional team like Red’s do it for you. 

Our experts will be able to diagnose and execute the best removal method for the type, size, age, and health of your stump. Our tree stump removal team has the heavy-duty equipment necessary to perform stump grinding efficiently, and the training to complete the task safely. We also have the knowledge and expertise about surrounding pipes and wires, and what can grow in the remaining space. Red’s Tree Service can also recycle or dispose of the debris, so you do not have to worry about taking it somewhere yourself, or arranging for the city to pick it up.

If you are in Memphis or the surrounding area and have a tree stump sitting around your property like a bump on a log, get in touch with our expert team today to inquire about our stump removal and grinding services!

This post first appeared on https://redstreeservice.com

The difference between evergreen trees and deciduous trees becomes very obvious in the fall. Evergreens stay green and keep their foliage, while deciduous trees typically change the color of their leaves before dropping them and going dormant.

Evergreen trees do drop foliage, just not all at once. Throughout the year, they will drop small portions of their foliage and grow it back. These trees do not experience a dormant period like their deciduous counterparts, but they do slow down in the winter months.

For those with an aversion to raking up leaves in the fall, the arborist at 72tree.com identified 3 evergreen tree species to enhance your Alpharetta and Roswell Ga landscape.

Pine Trees

Of the North American native tree species, pine trees are one of the most widely spread and varied classes. Because of their ability to adapt and the ease to care for them, pines remain very popular landscaping trees from coast to coast.

Height – Within the pine family, some of the species can reach an astounding 150 feet tall and live to be more than 450 years old.

Crown Width – Mature pine tree canopies can stretch from 15 t0 30 feet in diameter depending on the species and the environment it is planted in.

DBH – When pines such as these reach maturity, their trunk DBH (diameter at breast height) can measure from 2.5 to 4 feet. As with most trees, there is just as much happening below ground.

Root System – As pines develop an extensive, deep, expansive, and invasive root system, they should not be planted within 20 feet of permanent structures like fences, underground utility lines, or homes.

Pest Problems – Bark beetles, aphids, and bagworms are a few of the pests that enjoy making a meal of pine trees. Mites and tree scale are also likely.

Disease – Some of the more common diseases that affect pine trees are needlecast, root rot, and pine wilt.

Pesticides and fungicides can be used to curb the progress of these pests and diseases. However, in cases of severe infestation and infection, an arborist should be called to evaluate the tree and what actions should be taken (including the tree’s removal if necessary).

Magnolia Trees

This classic Southern beauty (magnolia grandiflora) is very distinctive with its wide glossy leaves and enormous fragrant white blossoms. When it comes to year-round beauty, there are few trees that can keep up with it.

Its full luxurious look has made it a popular ornamental around the world.

This tree, although evergreen will drop leaves throughout the year. Growing anything beneath this tree (including grass) is difficult due to its dense foliage casting full shade and its shallow roots.

Height – A magnolia tree planted in a location with rich soil, little to no obstacles for the root system, and good soil drainage can reach heights of more than 80 feet.

Crown Width – While this tree possesses a pyramidal to rounded crown at the top, its width can reach 30 to 40 feet at the base and mid section.

DBH – Adult magnolias can reach a DBH of 24 to 36 inches. To reach this size takes anywhere from 80 to 100 years.

Root System – The species itself is a deep rooted one. First to develop is a strong tap root, then as the tree grows, many sunken roots will grow down from the root collar, and as the tree ages, major lateral roots will grow. When planted in areas with a high water table, the roots will grow more shallow and outward.

The optimum soil for this species is a rich, well drained, and slightly acidic one. When planting a magnolia, add generous amounts of organic material to the soil for the best growing conditions.

Although magnolia roots are not considered invasive, when planted too close to sidewalks or foundations, they will eventually cause undesired cracking and buckling.

Pest Problems – Varieties of scale, aphids, striped mealybug, spider mites, and magnolia leafminers are all potential infestation culprits.

Disease – There are a number of fungi which cause leaf spots. For the most part, they are unable to cause any significant damage to adult magnolias.

As well, there are a number of Polyporus fungi and Fomes which can cause heart rot.

Again, pesticides and fungicides can be used to curb the progress of these pests and diseases. When a severe infestation or infection is detected, an arborist should be called to assess what actions should be taken.

Eucalyptus Trees

Of all of the evergreen trees you could want in your yard, eucalyptus should be at or near the top of the list. This species is a fast growing, insect repelling, and gorgeous tree that adds beauty and practicality to whatever landscape it grows in.

For most, the image you get when you hear “eucalyptus” is a koala bear latched on to a branch, munching away at the leaves. You may be surprised to learn that only the koala, some possum species, and a select few insects are actually able to consume parts of this species. In large quantities, this tree’s secret weapon (cineole) is toxic.

It is the cineole aka: eucalyptol in eucalyptus trees that make up the greatest part of its signature aroma. Eucalyptus essential oil has been used for centuries in the treatment of respiratory ailments, as a disinfectant, and as an antibacterial or anti-fungal agent in medicine.

Height – Eucalyptus tree sizes vary. Their height at maturity can range from 30 to 35 feet for smaller varieties all the way to over 200 feet for the tallest of the species.

These trees must be planted away from physical structures. Mature eucalyptus trees are known to unexpectedly drop branches.

Crown Width – The eucalyptus tree species will typically grow tall and relatively slender, with mature crowns reaching from 12 to 30 feet in diameter. Many varieties of the species are able to reach much greater diameters as they age.

DBH – Adult eucalyptus trees can reach a DBH of 15 to 20 inches.

It is worth mentioning that this species is able to reach maturity within 10 years of growth. That’s less than half (in some cases less than a third) of the time it takes for the majority of other species to reach maturity.

Root System – This species quickly adapts to the soil it is planted in. In rich, fertile soil, the roots have no need to go deep. The tree is on a fast track for height and the roots will spread horizontally staying close to the surface.

In more nutrient deprived soil, the roots will dive deep for their food and moisture source. Counterintuitively, it is the eucalyptus planted in poor soil that grows to be the more stable and wind or storm resistant.

Pest Problems – Little to none (as long as the tree remains healthy). High concentrations of cineole in all parts of eucalyptus trees acts a natural insect repellant.

Two species of Australian tortoise beetles (family Chrysomelidae) (still isolated in the west) chew semicircular holes or notches on edges of eucalyptus leaves.

These beetles are able to remove most of a leaf’s surface, leaving only the midvein.The damage caused by these beetles is unsightly but not life threatening to the tree.

If a tree is stressed enough, an opportunity opens up for the eucalyptus longhorn borer. The female of this species lays her eggs on stressed trees, producing larvae that burrow their way to the cambium layer.

A heavily infested tree can die within weeks, which is due to the larval galleries girdling the tree and disrupting the flow of water and nutrients.

Infestations must be treated immediately. Because of the speed at which death can occur, an arborist should be called to evaluate the tree and determine what actions to take.

Disease – Canker, heart rot, and Phytophthora can infect a stressed eucalyptus tree. All three of these fungi attack and damage the tree from the inside.

Signs of infection are discolored leaves and in severe cases, splitting of the trunk. In any of these cases, the tree should be removed, destroyed (burned) and all equipment disinfected to prevent the disease from spreading to other trees.

Tree Care for Evergreens

As long as evergreens are planted in hardiness zones where they can thrive and get ample summer sunlight and winter shade (possibly on the north side of your property), caring for these trees is relatively simple.

Water them regularly and mulch around their trunk. This will keep them strong and winter injury resistant. Evergreens (when not mulched or watered well) can be severely injured by the drying effects of the sun and wind through winter months.

A major benefit of evergreens in your yard is that there is no bad season. Even during the coldest days of winter, your landscape will be filled with full, and vibrantly-green trees.

Sources:
http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74104.html
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/care-maintenance-evergreen-trees-59096.html
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salix_babylonica#Horticultural_selections_and_related_hybrids
https://gardenerdy.com/types-of-evergreen-trees
https://www.ambientbp.com/blog/7-facts-eucalyptus-trees

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/3-evergreen-species-alpharetta-roswell-yard/

Construction, landscaping, and hardscaping projects all involve some level of planning and in many cases, the acquisition of land disturbance permits. Part of the planning for such projects should include the protection of existing trees on the site.

Nearly every municipality and county (nationwide) has created, adopted, or adapted a set of ordinances or codes which regulate how existing trees should be protected during land disturbance activities.

These ordinances serve to protect the health and vitality of trees, which is optimal when a tree’s roots and trunk are kept from being damaged and soil compaction is avoided.

The team at Todd’s Marietta Tree Services has compiled the following information to help you better understand the need to protect your trees, the ordinances that require it, and how to go about it during a construction or landscaping project.

Tree Ordinances Mandate Protection

Embedded within the municipal ordinances of nearly every city and county, you will find verbiage addressing tree protection, preservation, and removal. You will also find ordinances which address land disturbance activities, typically including the same concerns.

A great example can be found in the Marietta, Georgia Code of Ordinances under Zoning Ordinance in Division 712 section 8. The following are relevant tree protection excerpts from the section:

712.08 – Tree protection and landscaping.

… “D. Tree Preservation and Replacement.
A tree protection and landscaping plan shall be submitted with all other permit drawings as part of the building permit process on any non-exempt parcel of land.”…

… “All tree protection measures shall be installed prior to land disturbance and no land disturbance permit shall be issued for full site development without it being determined that the proposed development is in compliance with the provisions of these regulations.”…

… “E. Methods of Tree Protection.
1. The protective zone for designated tree save areas shall include no less than the total area beneath the canopy drip line of the tree(s).
2. Construction site activities such as material storage, concrete washout, burnhole placement, etc., may not encroach into designated tree protective zones.”…

… “F. Protective Barriers.
1. Prior to any land disturbance, active tree protective fencing shall be installed so that it surrounds the critical root zones of all protected tree zones, which is defined as the area beneath the canopy drip line”…

For a land disturbance summary and Marietta, Ga ordinance see: toddsmariettatreeservices.com/removal-permit-ordinance/marietta-ga/

Tree Root and Trunk Damage

Depending on soil conditions and the species of the tree, some roots will grow very close to the ground surface. Over time, they may protrude or be partially exposed.

Damage to these roots by vehicles, lawn mowers, or improper root cutting exposes the tree to fungal infection and pest infestation.

Likewise, damage to the trunk of a tree that cuts through or removes its bark may result in the same type of infections or infestations. Furthermore, if enough of the bark is removed from around the tree, girdling is likely to occur leading to the death of the tree. No equipment should ever be parked or stacked against a tree.

Girdling occurs when enough of the phloem (thin layer of sugars and nutrients beneath tree bark) is either removed or compressed to the point that it can no longer transport its sugars and nutrients throughout the tree.

Soil Compaction and Root Death

Tree roots depend on 3 components being present in the soil; nutrients, water, and air. When deprived of any of these components for long enough, the roots will die. The death of roots in this manner seriously compromises the health and stability of a tree.

Soil compaction occurs when heavy equipment, vehicles, or containers are stored, parked, or driven over the dirt. Compacted soil does not allow air or water to penetrate it, thus rendering the soil a sort of “death trap” for the existing roots within it.

Protective Barriers around Trees

Before the beginning of any construction, landscaping, or hardscaping project, protective tree fences or barriers should be properly erected around existing trees on the site.

All specifications within your local ordinances and permit should be adhered to at all times. Failure to properly protect trees may lead to the cancellation of your permit, fines, and/or the need to reapply for a permit.

The process of acquiring a tree permit from your local municipality is outlined in detail here: www.treeremovalpermit.com

Barrier Placement – Barriers should be placed just outside the drip line (outside of the extremity of the canopy) all the way around the tree. While feeder roots extend far beyond the drip line, it is the roots from the drip line to the trunk which must be protected from soil compaction and physical damage.

Types of Barriers – While specifications may vary from ordinance to ordinance, some of the common barrier attributes are as follows:

• Barrier fencing must be at least 4 feet in height, entirely encompassing the tree.
• Barrier material should be either wood and post, polyethylene fencing, chainlink, traffic barriers, or interlocking temporary fencing.
• Fencing should be labeled “Tree Protection Zone” or “Tree Protective Zone”.
• Tree barriers should be erected before any activity begins and removed only after all site work has been completed.

In addition to erecting the barriers, all contractors and sub-contractors should be notified of tree protection zones on the work site. Their blatant or inadvertent encroachment on these zones may constitute an ordinance violation which could potentially void your permit.

Watch this video to learn more about soil compaction at construction sites and how to protect tree roots.

Tree Health and Safety Is Everyone’s Responsibility

The trees within a city help to reduce air pollution, slow soil erosion, provide shade, filter impurities from ground water, promote a heathy ecosystem, and provide shelter for wildlife.

Tree ordinances and codes are written to offer guidelines for the proper care, preservation, or removal of trees when necessary. Ultimately, these codes are in place to preserve the overall canopy of a city.

Whether it be pruning, watering, mulching, fertilizing, or building a barrier around trees on a construction site, taking steps to keep trees healthy and safe is a responsibility that all residents share.

Source:
https://library.municode.com/ga/marietta/codes/code_of_ordinances?nodeId=COOR_ZOOR_DIV712SUUSRE_712.08TRPRLA

https://plus.google.com/+Toddsmariettatreeservices

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