Crape Myrtle – A Southern Tree for Your Alpharetta and Roswell Yard

Lagerstroemia, known as crepe myrtle or crape myrtle is a tree that thrives in US Hardiness zones 7 through 10, making it a perfect choice for your Alpharetta or Roswell yard. The genus came to the US over 200 years ago and got its name from the Swedish merchant Magnus von Lagerstrom.

The most popular species is L. indica. It is a native of southern China and Thailand. For centuries, crepe myrtles have been grown in Asia as ornamentals.

Of all the southern trees and plants, crepe myrtles are among the most desired for their outstanding summer display of blooms and their brilliant fall colors. 72 Tree, Seed & Land Co. prepared an extensive article covering the characteristics, environment, and care these trees need to flourish and light up your landscape.

Are Crepe Myrtles Trees or Bushes

The Lagerstroemia genus contains approximately 50 species of trees and shrubs both deciduous and evergreen. So, this species can indeed grow as a tree or shrub, making it ideal for hedges, container planting, or even in groupings along your landscape.

Height – The L. indica species possesses cultivars and hybrids that remain under 5ft in height, some that reach 11 to 15ft in height, and those that tower over the others, reaching heights of 20 to 30ft.

Canopy – At maturity, the canopy can reach from 6ft to well beyond 15ft depending on the species.

Trunk – Crape Myrtles are known to have multiple trunks with beautiful bark which exfoliates in the winter months. Be cautious when pruning or working around these trees, their wood is somewhat brittle, and the trunks may easily crack when put under pressure.

Lifespan – When planted in full sun and fertile soil, Crepe Myrtles can live well beyond 50 years. In fact, dotted along the southeastern landscape, it is common to come across specimens over 100 years old.

Uses – Depending on the species, these trees work as shrubs, hedges, container plants, landscape groupings, and in some cities as street trees.

If you decided you prefer to plant an evergreen instead, visit 72tree.com/3-evergreen-species-alpharetta-roswell-yard/ for some great candidates.

Crepe Myrtle Tree Care

About two years after planting, these species become very tolerant to drought, heat, humidity, and will do well in nearly any well-drained soil. They become robust enough to resprout even after being completely frozen.

Crepe myrtles are low maintenance. However, you still need to do some planning before planting and a bit of upkeep as they grow.

Planting – Location is critical when planting crepe myrtles. Select a spot that has well-drained soil and gets full sun. Planting in partial or full shade will significantly reduce its ability to flower and may reduce its lifespan as well.

Crepe myrtles have a shallow and very fibrous root system which can extend 3 to 4 times the diameter of the canopy. As with all trees, the planting location should be at least 5 to 10 feet away from cement pathways, foundations, and sidewalks.

Pruning – Very little pruning is required. Improper pruning disrupts the development of a robust branching system and will leave your specimen deformed and vulnerable to weather, pests, and fungi.

If there is a need to prune, it should occur in late winter or early spring to correct the following:

• Removing crossed or rubbing branches.

• Removing suckers from the base.

• Branches growing inward (toward the center).

• Canopy thinning for better air circulation.

• Gradually remove side branches up to 4 or 5 feet as the tree grows.

• Reducing multi-trunk trees to a single trunk (not recommended).

Summer pruning can include:

• Removing old seed pods and spent flowers (removing them after the first bloom encourages further blooming).

• Removing small twig-like growth.

All crepe myrtle species bloom on new wood. The proper and minimal pruning of your tree will encourage this growth and promote a beautiful summer blooming season.

If you are pruning your tree because it has gotten too large for its location, you’ve planted the wrong species.

Watering – Provide newly planted crepe myrtles with a deep and thorough watering. Then, water your tree up to 4 or 5 times per week during hot weather or when planted in sandy soil. When the tree is dormant or during cold weather, your tree will need watering once per week.

Blooms – As previously mentioned, all crepe myrtles bloom on new wood. After the first bloom, removing the spent flowers will encourage further blooming in the season.

Tree Pests and Disease That Attack Crepe Myrtles

These trees like all others on your landscape are susceptible to infestations, disease, and animal damage. The best defense against these threats is to keep your tree(s) healthy, plant, prune, and water them properly and they will be less likely to suffer damage from the following:

Pests that infest crepe myrtles:

Japanese Beetle – This insect is approximately 1/2 inch in length, its body is oval and metallic green, and its wings are copper in color.

Larvae remain underground where they consume grass and young tree roots. Adult beetles feed on the tissues of the leaves and are most active on trees in full sun during the warmest part of the day.

A Japanese beetle infestation can cause severe damage to all of the trees on your landscape. Traps, pyrethrins, and neem oil can help curtail a beetle outbreak. However, this is an urgent situation which needs to be evaluated by a certified arborist.

Crape Myrtle Aphid – These insects are yellowish-green and have black spots on their abdomen. They measure from a sixteenth to an eighth of an inch in length.

Both nymphs and adults feed on the underside of the foliage causing it to droop and yellow leaf spots to appear. Buds, flowers, and branch tips can all be damaged as well from their feeding.

Sooty mold will appear on the leaves when there is an aphid infestation. This mold is a byproduct of the aphid’s excrement and will disappear once the outbreak ends.

Watch this video to learn how to eliminate aphids and “black” sooty mold on your crape myrtle.

When a crape myrtle aphid infestation occurs, apply a 2oz. to 1 gallon solution of molasses and water to the affected areas and release ladybugs around the tree. Neem oil is also very useful in controlling aphids.

Fungi that attack crepe myrtles:

Powdery Mildew – This fungus appears as a white powdery substance and can spread very quickly if not handled properly.

It is worth noting that trees planted in full sun are not typically bothered by this fungus.

To control powdery mildew, spray a fungicide on the affected area and its surroundings.

Sooty Mold – This mold has a tar-like appearance and is a result an aphid infestation (see above).

Bark Shedding – Don’t be alarmed. While it may seem that something has infected your tree, there is nothing wrong with it. Crepe myrtles, once reaching adulthood will naturally exfoliate their bark in winter months, revealing the magnificent color variations of its trunk.

Crepe Myrtles and Summer Blooms

If you are looking for an incredible addition to your Alpharetta yard or landscape, crepe myrtles are a must have. Besides being low maintenance, they will put on a colorful show every summer.

An added plus in the summer is when the blooms attract birds seeking refuge and nesting and offer their nectar and pollen to the bees.

Sources:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lagerstroemia
https://www.leugardens.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/Crepe_myrtles.pdf
https://crapemyrtletrails.org/crape-myrtle-history/
http://www.pcmg-texas.org/images/trees/crape_myrtle_pest.pdf
https://crapemyrtletrails.org/pest-control/

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/crape-myrtle-southern-tree-your-alpharetta-roswell-yard/

Simply put, trees grow up, trees grow out, and trees grow down. In one form or another, trees are always growing throughout their lifecycle, and do so until their death.

Knowing how they grow can improve your landscaping and gardening practices. Our team at Todd’s Marietta Tree Services constructed practical information below about tree growth and will dispel some common myths.

Do Trees Grow from the Bottom Up?

Yes. Trees do grow from the bottom up in the sense that the roots are transporting the “growth” building blocks up the trunk, through the limbs, and to the extremities of the tree.

However, the answer is NO when considering that tree growth occurs from its extremities. Consider the following:

Root Growth – Roots grow outward and down from their tips (similar to how limbs and branches grow longer). As roots grow and age, they thicken (much like the trunk does).

The roots of a tree are able to spread out and grow far beyond the tree’s dripline (the outer edges of the canopy).

Root activities almost exclusively support the growth of a tree. Four primary functions of tree roots are:

• To seek out sources of water and nutrients.
• To store glucose in the colder months (when growth is all but halted).
• To participate in the underground ecosystem through mycorrhizal associations or root grafting.
• To anchor the tree to the ground.

Trunk Growth – The trunk doesn’t stretch or grow upward. It does thicken though, and it adds two rings as each year passes. One light ring during the growth period and one dark ring as it slows down for winter or dormancy.

When looking at a cross-section of a cut down tree, you can tell how old the tree was when it died by counting one light and one dark ring for each year from the outside inward.

A common misconception is that tree trunks stretch upward as they get taller, when in fact they do not. If you were to pin a medal on the trunk at exactly five feet up from the root flare, it would still be exactly five feet up from the root flare fifty years or one hundred years later.

Branch and Limb – Growth in length happens within meristem tissues located at the tips of branches, stems, and twigs. These specialized tissues facilitate the upward growth of the tree, as well as the expansion of the tree’s canopy.

Branches and limbs grow in diameter through the vascular cambium within the bark. Very similar to how a trunk grows in diameter.

Do Trees Grow All Year?

While different species of trees will follow slightly different growth patterns, the answer is yes. Trees are continuously growing throughout the year.

Springtime – Foliage, limbs, and branches grow at high speeds in the spring.

Summertime – This is when trunk and limb diameter growth takes place.

Fall and Wintertime – As the trunk, branches, limbs, and foliage stop growing, the roots continue to expand outward and down throughout the coldest months of the year.

How Do Trees Get Their Mass?

It’s principally carbon. Without carbon, trees could not exist. Every time you exhale, you are providing the building blocks for a tree’s mass. Carbon dioxide (captured from the air) and water (sent to the leaves by the roots) bond together within the leaves of a tree to form carbon molecules.

During photosynthesis, energy from sunlight is transformed into chemical energy and captured within the bonds of those carbon molecules.

Those carbon molecules along with hydrogen and oxygen comprise the tree’s food source known as glucose. Each glucose molecule contains six oxygen atoms, six carbon atoms, and twelve hydrogen atoms.

Once a tree has satisfied the activities which keep it alive (cellular respiration), whatever carbon molecules (glucose) are left over are used in the growth process, adding to its mass.

Carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, sulfur, and phosphorus together comprise nearly all of a tree’s mass.

Tree Growth, Sunlight, Balance, and Longevity

While there are many facets that comprise a tree’s mechanisms, it is sunlight that is the driving force behind it all. Throughout the entire lifespan of a tree, it will depend on the sun for energy to grow and thrive.

Tree growth is symmetrical by nature. Throughout the life of a tree, its growth is consistently seeking balance. Trees will not grow beyond their capacity to support themselves. When stressed they will shed leaves, flowers, fruit and even drop entire branches.

Speaking of thriving, the lifespan of a tree depends primarily on its species and the environment it is growing in. While some palms live to about sixty years old, some pine species make it to well over five thousand years old. And there is increasing evidence that an ancient clonal grove of aspen trees called “Pando” is upwards of eighty thousand years old.

Sources:
https://projects.ncsu.edu/project/treesofstrength/treefact.htm
http://www.dof.virginia.gov/infopubs/_forest-facts/FF-How-A-Tree-Grows_pub.pdf
https://askabiologist.asu.edu/questions/what-oldest-living-thing-earth

https://plus.google.com/+Toddsmariettatreeservices

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Deciding to have a tree removed from your property is not always a tough decision. In fact, as long as you have a professional team like Red’s Tree Service handle the project for you, the actual removal of the tree is the easy part. Where it starts to get tricky is when you have to decide on whether or not to have the tree stump that is been left behind removed. It is important for homeowners to understand the problems that can arise from leaving a stump where it is, and the benefits that can come with professional stump removal. We generally advise all stumps be removed, and we recommend you do not try to do it on your own. Read more below on why you should remove tree stumps from your property, and why you should leave it to the pros!

Stumps can cause damage to your property

Even after you have a tree cut down, the roots can continue to grow for a while. Tree roots, in general, are thirsty and will tend to seek out water wherever they can get it. Unfortunately for homeowners, that can sometimes mean growing into pipes and causing them to burst, leading to a loss of water supply, flooding, and expensive repairs or replacements. Aggressive roots can cause sidewalks to buckle and create a number of other problems around the home, most of which go unseen or unnoticed until it is too late. Having a tree stump removed as quickly as possible reduces the chances of its roots causing problems.

Stumps can be a safety hazard

Unless you are extremely sentimental or very creative, a dead tree stump on your property has few practical uses. It is, however, a potential safety hazard, particularly if you have children that like to play in the yard. Not only can it be easy for people to trip over it or tumble into it, but roots growing out of control can also cause slips and stumbles. For safety’s sake, removing tree stumps from an active area is usually your best bet for safety’s sake. 

Stumps take up extra space

Any area on your property with a tree stump is effectively a dead space, without much use to anyone. Removing the stump opens that space up for just about anything you can imagine. You can leave it open, plant another tree, put in a swing set, or add a birdbath. Without a stump taking up space, you have a whole range of options to choose from.

Stumps can attract invasive species

Living trees naturally attract a variety of animals, birds, and beneficial insects like ladybugs and honeybees. The wildlife that shows up once a tree has been removed, however, is not anything you will want to roll out the welcome mat for. Dead tree stumps are inviting to pests like termites and carpenter ants. Once they use up all the limited resources of the tree stump, they will seek a new place to colonize, and sometimes that will be a healthy tree or hedge nearby, putting it at risk. Besides unwanted insects, tree stumps may also start sprouting fungi, a number of which are toxic and can pose a threat to pets and small children.

Stumps can reduce the value of your property

Planting trees or purchasing a property with trees is one of the best things you can do for your health and well-being. They attract wildlife, offer privacy, are a beautiful source of fresh air and stress relief, and provide shade and coolness. For these reasons, having a tree can often add a boost to the value of your property.

Dead tree stumps, on the other hand, may have the opposite effect. As an eyesore with no real practical use, your home could be less valuable while a stump is sitting on your property. Removing that stump and replacing it with a healthy new tree could help the value of your home go right back up again.

The best way to remove a stump in Memphis is Red’s Tree Service

Properly removing a tree stump is a difficult task because you are fighting a deep system of roots under the surface. DIY removal methods often use toxic chemicals that can last for months or renting or buying specific tools to aid in the process. When you take into consideration the hazards, cost, time, and effort of removing a stump yourself, you will soon realize it is easier, safer, and more efficient to have a professional team like Red’s do it for you. 

Our experts will be able to diagnose and execute the best removal method for the type, size, age, and health of your stump. Our tree stump removal team has the heavy-duty equipment necessary to perform stump grinding efficiently, and the training to complete the task safely. We also have the knowledge and expertise about surrounding pipes and wires, and what can grow in the remaining space. Red’s Tree Service can also recycle or dispose of the debris, so you do not have to worry about taking it somewhere yourself, or arranging for the city to pick it up.

If you are in Memphis or the surrounding area and have a tree stump sitting around your property like a bump on a log, get in touch with our expert team today to inquire about our stump removal and grinding services!

This post first appeared on https://redstreeservice.com

The difference between evergreen trees and deciduous trees becomes very obvious in the fall. Evergreens stay green and keep their foliage, while deciduous trees typically change the color of their leaves before dropping them and going dormant.

Evergreen trees do drop foliage, just not all at once. Throughout the year, they will drop small portions of their foliage and grow it back. These trees do not experience a dormant period like their deciduous counterparts, but they do slow down in the winter months.

For those with an aversion to raking up leaves in the fall, the arborist at 72tree.com identified 3 evergreen tree species to enhance your Alpharetta and Roswell Ga landscape.

Pine Trees

Of the North American native tree species, pine trees are one of the most widely spread and varied classes. Because of their ability to adapt and the ease to care for them, pines remain very popular landscaping trees from coast to coast.

Height – Within the pine family, some of the species can reach an astounding 150 feet tall and live to be more than 450 years old.

Crown Width – Mature pine tree canopies can stretch from 15 t0 30 feet in diameter depending on the species and the environment it is planted in.

DBH – When pines such as these reach maturity, their trunk DBH (diameter at breast height) can measure from 2.5 to 4 feet. As with most trees, there is just as much happening below ground.

Root System – As pines develop an extensive, deep, expansive, and invasive root system, they should not be planted within 20 feet of permanent structures like fences, underground utility lines, or homes.

Pest Problems – Bark beetles, aphids, and bagworms are a few of the pests that enjoy making a meal of pine trees. Mites and tree scale are also likely.

Disease – Some of the more common diseases that affect pine trees are needlecast, root rot, and pine wilt.

Pesticides and fungicides can be used to curb the progress of these pests and diseases. However, in cases of severe infestation and infection, an arborist should be called to evaluate the tree and what actions should be taken (including the tree’s removal if necessary).

Magnolia Trees

This classic Southern beauty (magnolia grandiflora) is very distinctive with its wide glossy leaves and enormous fragrant white blossoms. When it comes to year-round beauty, there are few trees that can keep up with it.

Its full luxurious look has made it a popular ornamental around the world.

This tree, although evergreen will drop leaves throughout the year. Growing anything beneath this tree (including grass) is difficult due to its dense foliage casting full shade and its shallow roots.

Height – A magnolia tree planted in a location with rich soil, little to no obstacles for the root system, and good soil drainage can reach heights of more than 80 feet.

Crown Width – While this tree possesses a pyramidal to rounded crown at the top, its width can reach 30 to 40 feet at the base and mid section.

DBH – Adult magnolias can reach a DBH of 24 to 36 inches. To reach this size takes anywhere from 80 to 100 years.

Root System – The species itself is a deep rooted one. First to develop is a strong tap root, then as the tree grows, many sunken roots will grow down from the root collar, and as the tree ages, major lateral roots will grow. When planted in areas with a high water table, the roots will grow more shallow and outward.

The optimum soil for this species is a rich, well drained, and slightly acidic one. When planting a magnolia, add generous amounts of organic material to the soil for the best growing conditions.

Although magnolia roots are not considered invasive, when planted too close to sidewalks or foundations, they will eventually cause undesired cracking and buckling.

Pest Problems – Varieties of scale, aphids, striped mealybug, spider mites, and magnolia leafminers are all potential infestation culprits.

Disease – There are a number of fungi which cause leaf spots. For the most part, they are unable to cause any significant damage to adult magnolias.

As well, there are a number of Polyporus fungi and Fomes which can cause heart rot.

Again, pesticides and fungicides can be used to curb the progress of these pests and diseases. When a severe infestation or infection is detected, an arborist should be called to assess what actions should be taken.

Eucalyptus Trees

Of all of the evergreen trees you could want in your yard, eucalyptus should be at or near the top of the list. This species is a fast growing, insect repelling, and gorgeous tree that adds beauty and practicality to whatever landscape it grows in.

For most, the image you get when you hear “eucalyptus” is a koala bear latched on to a branch, munching away at the leaves. You may be surprised to learn that only the koala, some possum species, and a select few insects are actually able to consume parts of this species. In large quantities, this tree’s secret weapon (cineole) is toxic.

It is the cineole aka: eucalyptol in eucalyptus trees that make up the greatest part of its signature aroma. Eucalyptus essential oil has been used for centuries in the treatment of respiratory ailments, as a disinfectant, and as an antibacterial or anti-fungal agent in medicine.

Height – Eucalyptus tree sizes vary. Their height at maturity can range from 30 to 35 feet for smaller varieties all the way to over 200 feet for the tallest of the species.

These trees must be planted away from physical structures. Mature eucalyptus trees are known to unexpectedly drop branches.

Crown Width – The eucalyptus tree species will typically grow tall and relatively slender, with mature crowns reaching from 12 to 30 feet in diameter. Many varieties of the species are able to reach much greater diameters as they age.

DBH – Adult eucalyptus trees can reach a DBH of 15 to 20 inches.

It is worth mentioning that this species is able to reach maturity within 10 years of growth. That’s less than half (in some cases less than a third) of the time it takes for the majority of other species to reach maturity.

Root System – This species quickly adapts to the soil it is planted in. In rich, fertile soil, the roots have no need to go deep. The tree is on a fast track for height and the roots will spread horizontally staying close to the surface.

In more nutrient deprived soil, the roots will dive deep for their food and moisture source. Counterintuitively, it is the eucalyptus planted in poor soil that grows to be the more stable and wind or storm resistant.

Pest Problems – Little to none (as long as the tree remains healthy). High concentrations of cineole in all parts of eucalyptus trees acts a natural insect repellant.

Two species of Australian tortoise beetles (family Chrysomelidae) (still isolated in the west) chew semicircular holes or notches on edges of eucalyptus leaves.

These beetles are able to remove most of a leaf’s surface, leaving only the midvein.The damage caused by these beetles is unsightly but not life threatening to the tree.

If a tree is stressed enough, an opportunity opens up for the eucalyptus longhorn borer. The female of this species lays her eggs on stressed trees, producing larvae that burrow their way to the cambium layer.

A heavily infested tree can die within weeks, which is due to the larval galleries girdling the tree and disrupting the flow of water and nutrients.

Infestations must be treated immediately. Because of the speed at which death can occur, an arborist should be called to evaluate the tree and determine what actions to take.

Disease – Canker, heart rot, and Phytophthora can infect a stressed eucalyptus tree. All three of these fungi attack and damage the tree from the inside.

Signs of infection are discolored leaves and in severe cases, splitting of the trunk. In any of these cases, the tree should be removed, destroyed (burned) and all equipment disinfected to prevent the disease from spreading to other trees.

Tree Care for Evergreens

As long as evergreens are planted in hardiness zones where they can thrive and get ample summer sunlight and winter shade (possibly on the north side of your property), caring for these trees is relatively simple.

Water them regularly and mulch around their trunk. This will keep them strong and winter injury resistant. Evergreens (when not mulched or watered well) can be severely injured by the drying effects of the sun and wind through winter months.

A major benefit of evergreens in your yard is that there is no bad season. Even during the coldest days of winter, your landscape will be filled with full, and vibrantly-green trees.

Sources:
http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74104.html
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/care-maintenance-evergreen-trees-59096.html
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salix_babylonica#Horticultural_selections_and_related_hybrids
https://gardenerdy.com/types-of-evergreen-trees
https://www.ambientbp.com/blog/7-facts-eucalyptus-trees

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/3-evergreen-species-alpharetta-roswell-yard/

Construction, landscaping, and hardscaping projects all involve some level of planning and in many cases, the acquisition of land disturbance permits. Part of the planning for such projects should include the protection of existing trees on the site.

Nearly every municipality and county (nationwide) has created, adopted, or adapted a set of ordinances or codes which regulate how existing trees should be protected during land disturbance activities.

These ordinances serve to protect the health and vitality of trees, which is optimal when a tree’s roots and trunk are kept from being damaged and soil compaction is avoided.

The team at Todd’s Marietta Tree Services has compiled the following information to help you better understand the need to protect your trees, the ordinances that require it, and how to go about it during a construction or landscaping project.

Tree Ordinances Mandate Protection

Embedded within the municipal ordinances of nearly every city and county, you will find verbiage addressing tree protection, preservation, and removal. You will also find ordinances which address land disturbance activities, typically including the same concerns.

A great example can be found in the Marietta, Georgia Code of Ordinances under Zoning Ordinance in Division 712 section 8. The following are relevant tree protection excerpts from the section:

712.08 – Tree protection and landscaping.

… “D. Tree Preservation and Replacement.
A tree protection and landscaping plan shall be submitted with all other permit drawings as part of the building permit process on any non-exempt parcel of land.”…

… “All tree protection measures shall be installed prior to land disturbance and no land disturbance permit shall be issued for full site development without it being determined that the proposed development is in compliance with the provisions of these regulations.”…

… “E. Methods of Tree Protection.
1. The protective zone for designated tree save areas shall include no less than the total area beneath the canopy drip line of the tree(s).
2. Construction site activities such as material storage, concrete washout, burnhole placement, etc., may not encroach into designated tree protective zones.”…

… “F. Protective Barriers.
1. Prior to any land disturbance, active tree protective fencing shall be installed so that it surrounds the critical root zones of all protected tree zones, which is defined as the area beneath the canopy drip line”…

For a land disturbance summary and Marietta, Ga ordinance see: toddsmariettatreeservices.com/removal-permit-ordinance/marietta-ga/

Tree Root and Trunk Damage

Depending on soil conditions and the species of the tree, some roots will grow very close to the ground surface. Over time, they may protrude or be partially exposed.

Damage to these roots by vehicles, lawn mowers, or improper root cutting exposes the tree to fungal infection and pest infestation.

Likewise, damage to the trunk of a tree that cuts through or removes its bark may result in the same type of infections or infestations. Furthermore, if enough of the bark is removed from around the tree, girdling is likely to occur leading to the death of the tree. No equipment should ever be parked or stacked against a tree.

Girdling occurs when enough of the phloem (thin layer of sugars and nutrients beneath tree bark) is either removed or compressed to the point that it can no longer transport its sugars and nutrients throughout the tree.

Soil Compaction and Root Death

Tree roots depend on 3 components being present in the soil; nutrients, water, and air. When deprived of any of these components for long enough, the roots will die. The death of roots in this manner seriously compromises the health and stability of a tree.

Soil compaction occurs when heavy equipment, vehicles, or containers are stored, parked, or driven over the dirt. Compacted soil does not allow air or water to penetrate it, thus rendering the soil a sort of “death trap” for the existing roots within it.

Protective Barriers around Trees

Before the beginning of any construction, landscaping, or hardscaping project, protective tree fences or barriers should be properly erected around existing trees on the site.

All specifications within your local ordinances and permit should be adhered to at all times. Failure to properly protect trees may lead to the cancellation of your permit, fines, and/or the need to reapply for a permit.

The process of acquiring a tree permit from your local municipality is outlined in detail here: www.treeremovalpermit.com

Barrier Placement – Barriers should be placed just outside the drip line (outside of the extremity of the canopy) all the way around the tree. While feeder roots extend far beyond the drip line, it is the roots from the drip line to the trunk which must be protected from soil compaction and physical damage.

Types of Barriers – While specifications may vary from ordinance to ordinance, some of the common barrier attributes are as follows:

• Barrier fencing must be at least 4 feet in height, entirely encompassing the tree.
• Barrier material should be either wood and post, polyethylene fencing, chainlink, traffic barriers, or interlocking temporary fencing.
• Fencing should be labeled “Tree Protection Zone” or “Tree Protective Zone”.
• Tree barriers should be erected before any activity begins and removed only after all site work has been completed.

In addition to erecting the barriers, all contractors and sub-contractors should be notified of tree protection zones on the work site. Their blatant or inadvertent encroachment on these zones may constitute an ordinance violation which could potentially void your permit.

Watch this video to learn more about soil compaction at construction sites and how to protect tree roots.

Tree Health and Safety Is Everyone’s Responsibility

The trees within a city help to reduce air pollution, slow soil erosion, provide shade, filter impurities from ground water, promote a heathy ecosystem, and provide shelter for wildlife.

Tree ordinances and codes are written to offer guidelines for the proper care, preservation, or removal of trees when necessary. Ultimately, these codes are in place to preserve the overall canopy of a city.

Whether it be pruning, watering, mulching, fertilizing, or building a barrier around trees on a construction site, taking steps to keep trees healthy and safe is a responsibility that all residents share.

Source:
https://library.municode.com/ga/marietta/codes/code_of_ordinances?nodeId=COOR_ZOOR_DIV712SUUSRE_712.08TRPRLA

https://plus.google.com/+Toddsmariettatreeservices

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Spotting Grubs in Your Yard Before It’s Too Late

Grubs are a quiet enemy of a healthy lawn. Voracious eaters, grubs live beneath the surface of unsuspecting lawns. Also aggressive multipliers, grubs will continue to reproduce and inflict ever-increasing damage.  Because they live below ground, homeowners are unlikely to spot the invaders or catch them in the act. However, anyone who is paying careful attention can easily spot the evidence of grubs. Here are some signs that grubs are feasting on your grass.

Wilting Grass

Grubs live to feed on your grass. But they don’t eat the pretty green stems that you see above the surface. Therefore, you won’t see them crawling around on your lawn, and you also won’t see grass being chomped off by these pests. Instead they eat the roots. This means that all of the damage is occurring below the surface. Of course, this will affect the overall health of grass plants. What you will notice is grass that looks wilted or sick.

Brown Spots

If grubs continue to feast on your lawn, eventually grass will not just look sick or wilted. Eventually the grass will die. Death of grass will demonstrate itself with brown spots. Sometimes brown spots start out small and you can attack the pest before the problem becomes widespread.

Easily Removed Grass

Another consequence of grub infestation and the accompanying loss of roots is a steady weakening of grass plants. You probably don’t try to pull up your grass, but if you suspect grubs you might want to do just that in a small, inconspicuous area of your yard. If grubs are destroying the roots of your grass, clumps of the plants will be easily removed with your hands. Strong grass plants, on the other hand, will have dense root systems that keep them firmly anchored in the ground.

Increase of Animal Visitors

Finally, a dead give-away that you have grubs is an increase of animals coming to your yard to eat. Animals, including birds, moles, and racoons, are natural predators of grubs. If you have noticed flocks of birds frequently landing in your yard while ignoring your neighbor’s yard, you can be pretty sure that they are coming to feed on the pests feeding on your grass. On an even more unpleasant note, skunks also enjoy a meal of grubs. Now that is motivation to eradicate these pesky pests from your yard!

If you think you have a grub problem, Ping’s can help. Our lawn care division can make needed pest control applications or provide holistic lawn care which includes both fertilizer and pesticide treatments. Call us at 317-298-8482 to find out more about the services we offer.

This post first appeared on https://pingstreeservice.com

Trees, flowering shrubs, bushes, plants, and grass all work together to create a diverse ecosystem above and below the ground. While birds, insects, and other wildlife are attracted to the foliage, refuge, and blooms above, the roots are working below to find water, nutrients, and stability.

Choosing the right shrubs for your Alpharetta Ga landscape is a question of selecting ones that will thrive in the conditions of the environment where they are planted.

The team at 72tree.com has identified 4 shrub specimens that will enhance the natural beauty of your Alpharetta yard and landscape.

Hardiness Zone 7b Bushes and Shrubs for Alpharetta

The USDA Hardiness Zone Map divides North America into 11 planting zones. Each individual planting zone is around 10°F colder (or warmer) than its neighboring zone –during an average winter.

At your local nursery or garden supply store, plant identification tags usually identify the zone in which that species will thrive.

The city of Alpharetta is located in zone 7b with a humid subtropical climate which supports the following striking species:

Juniper – juniperus

Junipers are long lived, slow growers, and rarely die. With a strong and extensive root system, they are able to adapt to their surrounding environment with ease. When planted in a location with ample space for growth, this specimen requires very little attention.

Juniper varieties vary in shape and size. The taller of the species can reach heights of more than 130 feet at maturity. The majority of the species however, are slow growing and will only reach about 30 feet in height, or 3 feet in diameter at maturity.

Junipers are evergreen and while they do not produce flowers or fruit, they do produce seeds.

Under the right conditions, this species can live from 400 to 700 years.

They are vulnerable to rust disease, which can be managed through pruning affected areas and treating them with fungicides.

Mountain Laurel – Kalmia latifolia

Mountain Laurels are relatively fast growers when properly planted. With a matted spreading root system, this shrub grows well in acidic well drained soil, and thrives when grown on north facing slopes or the east side of structures.

Mountain Laurel varieties are able to reach upwards of 25 feet, and if left to thrive without pruning, can grow into a large blooming thicket. Prolonged direct sunlight in summer months can stress this species. Take this into consideration when choosing its location.

This species is evergreen and produces flowers in terminal trusses of 50 to 150 blooms. Blooms range in color from white to pink and deep rose commonly with purple details. Flowering occurs in late spring (May and June).

This shrub however, is toxic. All of the green components – including the flowers, pollen, and twigs – contain andromedotoxin and is poisonous when ingested. If browsing animals consume enough of the plant, it can be lethal.

Mountain Laurel is vulnerable to leaf spot which can be managed through pruning affected areas and then treated with fungicides.

Rose of Sharon – Hibiscus Syriacus

Rose of Sharon can be planted as a small tree or large shrub. It grows well in varied soil types but performs best in hot climates with moist soil and full sun.

At maturity, this species can reach up to 12 feet tall and grow 10 feet wide. Being multi-stemmed with vertical branches, it is relatively easy to grow, and requires minimal care. For this trait, Rose of Sharon is commonly used as hedging.

Rose of Sharon is a deciduous flowering shrub which with heavy pruning in early spring promotes flowering from July through September. Its flowers reach 2 to 4 inches in width, and blooms can range in color from pink, red, purple, white, and blue with a typically red center.

This species, if left unchecked, will reproduce and spread quickly in areas with little disturbance. Rose of Sharon is a vigorous and healthy species with high tolerance to pests and disease. When there is a problem with either, it is easily remedied through heavy pruning and with insecticides or fungicides.

Gardenia – Gardenia jasminoides

Gardenia can be planted as a small tree or large shrub. It thrives in acidic soil with good drainage, and flourishes in high humidity. This shrub grows best with night temperatures above 60 degrees, and mid to low 70’s during the day. Bright (not direct) sunlight is best for this species.

This shrub can typically grow up to 15 feet but some varieties are able to reach heights of 50 feet tall. With its many size and form variations, they are frequently used as hedges, ground cover, and even specimen plantings.

Gardenias are evergreen flowering shrubs and small trees that do require moderate attention and care. Flowering from April through July, the flowers can be solitary or in clusters; they range in color from white to pale yellow.

One of the greatest features of growing gardenias is its sweet scent. Once the species blooms however, the flowers quickly wilt when they come in contact with water.

Gardenias are highly susceptible to pest infestations. However, they can be easily managed with insecticidal soaps or horticultural oils. It also helps to maintain a high level of biodiversity in your garden which serves to attract predators of the insects threatening your garden.

Benefits of Shrubs Around Trees

Besides all of the artistic possibilities that come about on a landscape rich with trees and shrubs, during severe weather and strong winds, it is your shrubs and bushes that act as a wind buffer.

Shrubs and bushes do an excellent job at diverting wind, thus weakening it. This in turn spares the surrounding trees from taking the full force of potentially damaging winds.

Likewise, the bushes planted around your home will help shield it when the cold winter winds begin to blow.

Healthy Gardens and Landscapes Need Diversity

A healthy garden and landscape will have a variety of thriving tree, plant, and shrub species. Throughout the blooming season, as each species flowers, it attracts different insects and wildlife.

This biodiversity helps to stave off infestations. Likewise, the co-mingling of roots and fungi (in fertile soil) help to create a thriving mycorrhizal network below the soil that works to impede invasive diseases.

Remember to have a plan in mind when acquiring plants and shrubs for your garden and landscape. Not all shrubs can be planted equally, but they all can thrive in the right environment.

Sources:
http://buckjones.com/trees-shrubs-how-to-choose/
https://www.michigandnr.com/publications/pdfs/huntingwildlifehabitat/Landowners_Guide/Resource_Dir/Acrobat/Trees_and_Shrubs.PDF
http://www.lot-lines.com/5-reasons-to-reconsider-your-hatred-of-juniper-bushes/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kalmia_latifolia
https://extension.psu.edu/mountain-laurel-diseases
https://www.uaex.edu/yard-garden/resource-library/plant-week/mountain-laurel-6-15-12.aspx
http://www.hort.uconn.edu/plants/detail.php?pid=204
https://communityenvironment.unl.edu/plant-month-rose-sharon
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/rose-sharon-tree-41486.html
http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/ornamentals/gardenias.html
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gardenia
https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/all/gardenia-augusta-g-jasminoides/

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/4-shrub-species-alpharetta-georgia-yard/

Killing tree roots, removing them, and cutting them are three ways to control the growth of roots, and the damage they can cause to driveways, retainer walls, and home foundations.

Each of these actions has the potential to solve your principle problem, while creating another one. In this article, we will discuss each option and how it affects your tree and landscape. We will also provide several alternatives which could potentially solve your root problems.

Identifying Your Root Problem

In their constant quest for moisture and nutrients, roots will grow in some inconvenient places. Depending on soil compaction and quality, they will adapt and change growth behavior. The following are common scenarios of root damage and undesired growth:

Roots Growing on Ground Surface – As tree roots mature and as natural soil erosion or compaction occurs, the roots may become exposed along the ground.

Roots Growing Under Foundation – When roots grow under a home’s foundation, they will thicken as they age and continue to grow. This growth exerts an upward force on the foundation, partially raising it, bending, or warping it until it cracks.

In the event you are dealing with a mature tree planted too close to your home, this page offers further insight into resolving your problem.

Roots Buckling and Cracking Sidewalks and Driveways – The way roots grow under and damage a structure’s foundation, they can efficiently do the same to a concrete driveway or sidewalk.

The Tree Root System

Whether surface roots or underground destructive roots are the issue, take a moment to learn the importance of the roots in relation to the tree’s health before killing, removing, or cutting them.

• More than 25% of a mature trees’ mass is found in its root system.
• The majority of those roots remain from 6 to 18in below ground surface.
• Injured roots are susceptible to disease or infestation. This directly impacts the health of the tree, potentially leading to its decline and eventual death.

The two types of roots found below ground are:

• Feeder Roots – which transfer and store moisture and nutrients from the soil.
• Structural Roots – which stabilize or anchor the tree to the ground (these are the larger of the roots)

Killing Tree Roots

Option 1: Cut Down the Tree

“Once a tree has been cut down, roots can no longer grow.” The idea here is that they are dependent on the leaves photosynthesizing the fuel that drives their growth. Two potential exceptions to this are:

Tree Sprouts (Suckers) – These look like seedlings or offspring but are “clones” of the tree growing from the roots. With enough foliage, the roots may survive.

Neighboring Tree Association – There is evidence that shows the possibility of neighboring tree roots making associations with each other. This occurs through root grafting as they run into one another. This association has the potential to sustain the felled tree’s roots for continued growth.

Option 2: Use Herbicides

A very effective way to kill more of the root system (than simply cutting down the tree) is through the use of herbicides. The following video demonstrates an effective herbicide delivery method.

In the summer or early fall, when the tree still has leaves producing food, cut notches around the lower portion of the tree trunk. You only need to cut deep enough to reach the phloem (phloem is the tissue responsible for transporting food to the roots).

Apply the herbicide to the notches and allow two to three weeks before having the tree removed.

This type of herbicide can be found at your local gardening store and will come labeled specifically for this purpose. As with any chemical, be sure to read and follow all use and safety instructions.

Killing roots through the use of herbicides may cause serious collateral damage to neighboring trees. If their root systems have made associations with each other. The herbicide could potentially travel from one tree to another resulting in the decline or death of the other (otherwise healthy) tree.

If there are several trees in your yard or landscape, have them evaluated by a tree service professional before using herbicides in this manner.

Tree Root Removal – How to Safely Do It

There are two principle lines of thought for root removal:

Tree Has Been Removed – In this scenario, after the stump has been removed or ground down, simply follow the path of the roots. Dig them out and cut into sections (for larger roots).

Removing Disruptive or Damaging Roots – In this scenario, you do not want to lose the tree. Only the roots that are either growing on the ground surface or interfering with a foundation, retainer wall, or other structure.

This video shows how tree roots interact with a barrier like a retaining wall.

Once you have selected the roots to be removed, the following steps will help you safely and efficiently get the job done. See also “Cutting Tree Roots – Planning” below for further tips and advice.

Tools – The tools you will need to safely do this job include but are not limited to:

• Spray Paint
• Shovel
• Spade
• Sharp Hand Saw
• Cloth
• Alcohol
• Soil
• Mulch
• Seed

Mark Your Cuts – Using spray paint, mark protruding roots to be cut or spray the ground where you intend to dig to the roots.

Clear The Surface – Using the shovel, carefully dig around the area of the root where it will be cut. You will need enough space to safely work with a saw.

Remove Soil Around Root – Using your spade, remove the soil from the sides and from underneath the root. Again, leaving enough space to safely use your saw.

Sterilize the Saw – (for live roots) As open or wounded roots are highly susceptible to disease, you can minimize exposure by sterilizing the saw with an alcohol drenched cloth.

Make the Cut – Saw through the root just below a secondary or side root growing downward.

Finish the Job – Once the root is cut, pull up the remainder of the cut root. (for live roots) Quickly replace the soil around the remaining root. Fill in any holes with soil and reseed the area if needed. Water the tree well within the dripline (under the canopy).

Mulch – When all is done, spread a loose 2-3 inch layer of mulch over all of the root area in the dripline.

Cutting Tree Roots – Planning and Execution

Properly cutting tree roots can help achieve a deeper, stronger, and healthier root system.

Also known as Root Pruning, this process should never be approached without a plan. We advise hiring a professional tree service, but the following will educate and help you to understand the process and goal:

Leaning Trees – Stop here. Do not cut the roots of a leaning tree. In this case, you will need to call a tree professional to assess the safety of the tree and which roots (if any) may be cut.

Season – Unless the situation is absolutely necessary, tree root pruning should only be done in late winter or early spring when the tree’s functions are still slow. This is the time of year that the risk of dehydration is at a minimum, thus less risk of damaging your tree.

Distance – When dealing with a mature tree, measure the DBH (Diameter at Breast Height). You will want to avoid cutting any roots within a distance of 5 times the DBH from the tree trunk.

For example, if the DBH is 12 inches, you will only want to make cuts to roots that are outside of a 60 inch radius from the tree’s trunk.

Younger Trees – Young trees have a better chance of recovering from root pruning and can be pruned closer to the trunk (3 times the DBH). However, in any situation, the farther away from the trunk you can get, the better and safer it will be.

Cut In Quadrants – Never remove more than 25% of a tree’s roots at one time. Divide the area around the tree into four quadrants and carefully cut roots in 2 quadrants opposite each other. After 2 years, it should be safe to cut the roots in the remaining 2 quadrants.

Avoid the Largest Roots – The larger roots are structural roots, they are the ones that begin at the base of the tree and flare out. These are the ones keeping the tree anchored in its place. If one of these roots is to be removed, make sure the cut is made as far from the trunk as possible.

When a cut to one of these roots needs to be made closer to the trunk, a tree professional should be called to assess the potential effect on the stability of the tree.

Mark Your Cuts – Using spray paint, mark protruding roots to be cut or spray the ground where you intend to dig to the roots.

Cut Below Secondary Roots – Your cuts should be made below a secondary (or side) root growing downward. This will not only improve the chances that it will continue nourishing the tree, it will likely guide root growth into deeper soil.

Finish the Job – Once the root is cut, pull up the remainder of the cut root. Then quickly replace the soil around the remaining root. Fill in any holes with soil and reseed the area if needed. Water the tree well within the dripline (under the canopy).

Mulch – Once finished, spread a loose 2-3 inch layer of mulch over all of the root area in the dripline.

Root Cutting and Removal Without Killing Your Tree

Root cutting and removal can indeed be accomplished without crippling or killing your tree. It is a process that must be precise and taken slowly to preserve the integrity of the tree. Keep the following in mind:

Poor Pruning – A bad prune job in the crown or in the roots can severely compromise the health of a tree, eventually leading to its death.

Trunk Proximity – The closer to the trunk that roots are cut, the more significant and severe the damage will be to your tree.

25% Rule – Never remove more than 25% of a tree’s roots. The tree will likely die or fall, or both.

2 Years – A tree should be given two years to recover between root pruning.

Spring Time – After bud break, tree roots should not be pruned. This is the time your tree is most reliant on them.

Alternatives to Root Cutting, Killing, and Removal

The idea of cutting your tree roots may seem less appealing now. If you find that the risk of losing your tree is too great, here are some potential alternatives:

• Add soil over the roots that have surfaced and reseed.
• Design your landscape around the tree root spread.
• In hardscapes, use reinforced cement.
• Install root barricades.
• Replace a broken or buckled cement walkway or driveway with a gravel one.
• When planting new trees, make sure the soil is appropriate for the species and water it well for deep root growth. Click here for more on watering and soil.

The following video demonstrates how root barricades are installed.

Regardless of the solution, Look after the health of your tree! And when in doubt, call a professional to evaluate and assess what actions should or should not be taken.

Source(s):

http://aces.nmsu.edu/ces/yard/2000/030400.html
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/dangers-cutting-tree-roots-40686.html
http://hort.ufl.edu/woody/root-prune-guidelines.shtml
http://hort.ufl.edu/woody/urban-sidewalk.shtml
http://m.visitmadison.org/site/v/default?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.wikihow.com%2FDig-up-Tree-Roots#2861

https://plus.google.com/+Toddsmariettatreeservices

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It’s Time for a Spring Yard Clean-Up

We’ve been waiting for it since last November and this year we thought it would never come. But finally, spring has arrived in central Indiana. Now that spring is here, it is time to get to work. As winter clears out, it’s easy to see that there is much to be done. Here is a list of spring yard clean-up tasks to get you started.

Clear Lawn Debris

Winter weather tends to make a mess in your yard. Snow, wind, and ice can be hard on your trees, bringing down small twigs, larger branches, and sometimes even whole trees. In addition, leaves and trash may have been blown into your yard and will need to be taken care of. Whether you have a small mess or a big one, Ping’s can come take care of it for you. Even cleaning up a large tree is no problem for us.

Clean Out Landscape Beds

Likewise, your landscape beds may have collected the same types of debris over the winter. Beds may also have dead leaves, flowers, and stems that were not removed in the fall. This can be a big job if you have multiple landscape beds. Or delegate the work to Ping’s Landscape division. We will quickly clean out the old and get your beds ready for new spring plantings.

Trim Trees and Shrubs

Once new leaves appear on trees and shrubs, you might notice that they look a little shaggy. In this case, they could probably use a trim. Ping’s has the expertise and equipment to prune trees, improving both health and appearance.

Aerate and Overseed Grass

Problems with your lawn can become apparent in the spring. Ground may be compact or the grass may become sparse or thin. Taking the time to aerate your lawn and overseed it can improve your chances of a lush, green lawn this summer. If you don’t have the time, Ping’s lawn care team can do it for you.

Fertilize Lawn

Great looking lawns don’t just happen. Spring is a good time to start fertilizing your lawn and getting it ready for a healthy growing season. This helps your grass recover from the harsh winter weather and get ready for the hot days of summer. Again, Ping’s can do this for you. We actually have a 6-step program that provides lawn treatments at just the right time.

Apply Mulch

For many homeowners, spring means that it’s time to apply mulch. This is a helpful practice, which conserves water and reduces both run-off and weeds. It is important that mulch application be done correctly since too much mulch can be harmful to trees and plants. Aren’t sure how to apply mulch? See our blog for some tips or better yet, let Ping’s do it for you.

Spring’s to-do list can be overwhelming. But it doesn’t need to be. Let Ping’s help you out. We provide all these services for commercial as well as residential customers. Call us today at 317-298-8482 and let us know how we can get your property cleaned up and ready for spring.

This post first appeared on https://pingstreeservice.com

Driving through local neighborhoods gives you a chance to observe some beautiful landscaping. This might get you thinking about adding some landscaping to your yard. Before you start planting, you should give some thought to the elements that are commonly used in landscape beds and how you will incorporate them into your bed. Keep reading for a summary of the typical components of a landscape bed.

Small Trees or Shrubs

In planning a landscape bed, you should think first about the larger, more permanent elements of the bed. These give the bed a structure around which you can plan other elements. A small tree or shrub is often a good option. Just make sure you choose this element carefully because it is not as easy to change it out as other elements. Dogwoods, magnolias, and redbuds are flowering trees that can work in landscape beds, especially if you choose a miniature variety. If you’d rather stick with shrubs, boxwoods, barberries, hollies, and hydrangeas are just a few attractive alternatives.

Vines

Some vines do not belong in your flower bed (think poison ivy!), but other less irritating vines are a great way to add some height and color to an ordinary landscape. Clematis are a popular vine whose pretty large blooms will last for weeks or even months. Sweet peas and morning glories are two other colorful options. Any of these can be trained to a trellis within the bed. English ivy is a good choice to add more green color to your backdrop, especially if the bed backs up to a building or house.

Perennial Plants

The heart of any landscape bed is found in its perennial plants. These hardy plants come back year after year, often even multiplying to cover more space and produce more flowers. Shasta daisies, coneflowers, phlox, and black-eyed susans are just a few of the perennial plants that thrive in central Indiana. Once they are established, they will continue to grow and multiply in nearly any condition.

Bulbs

Similar to perennials, bulbs also come back year after year. However, they usually bloom for a relatively short period of time, adding a burst of color for a few weeks. Crocuses are some of the earliest bulbs to bloom and may even appear before the snow melts. For early spring color, tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths can’t be beat. Later in the summer, irises, allium, and lilies will add interest.

Annual Plants

As you plan your garden bed, be sure to leave some space for annuals. These plants are not hardy enough to survive the cold Indiana winters so they must be planted every year after the last frost of the year. You can buy small plants or even plant some varieties from seed. Some annuals commonly planted in local gardens are petunias, impatiens, marigolds, zinnias, and bachelor buttons.

Nonplant Elements

While plants will be the main component in a landscape bed, inanimate objects have a place too.  Many landscapers like to accent with birdbaths, benches, or rocks. Some even choose to express their own personality with a piece of outdoor art.  These objects will provide some year-round consistency as flowers bloom and fade with the seasons.

Creating a landscape bed is an exciting and rewarding project. When done right, it can bring you joy for many years and add value to your residential or commercial property. At Ping’s, we have the expertise and experience to create a landscape bed at your home or business that optimally combines the design elements and your own personal style. Call 317-298-8482 today to talk to our landscaping unit about how we can implement your landscaping project without the effort and stress of doing it yourself.

This post first appeared on https://pingstreeservice.com