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Here at Red’s Tree Service of Memphis, we’re proud to be your locally owned and operated one-stop shop for all your tree-related needs. This includes keeping you informed about critical safety concerns, such as the signs of a dying tree. 

You may not realize it, but dead and dying trees can pose a severe safety hazard! In fact, research performed by the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) demonstrates that dead and dying trees pose a greater risk to human health and safety than sharks! It turns out that every year, falling trees kill more than 100 Americans. Sharks? Less than 5. 

So how do I know if I’m dealing with a dead or dying tree? Well, that’s just what the subject of today’s reading is all about. So read on to learn the signs of a dying tree, and ensure that your family and property stay safe! 

Signs of a Dying Tree 

When it comes to identifying sick or dying trees, there are plenty of tell-tale signs if you know what to look for. For example: 

Sticks all over the ground 

A healthy tree has flexible twigs and branches that are less likely to break. It isn’t normal for a healthy tree to shed sticks at such a rate that you notice them all over the place! If your tree doesn’t exhibit signs of green wood in its branches, you can be sure something is wrong and should take action immediately. 

Bark Peeling 

Although different species of trees will exhibit varying degrees of peeling in bark, one sign that something is wrong is the excessive shedding of the outer protective layer of the tree. If you notice lots of peeling bark, then the tree isn’t getting enough nutrients. Similar to human skin, problems in the bark can indicate much bigger problems. 

 The Presence of Rot and Fungus 

Nothing is more of a surefire sign of a dying tree than considerable rot and fungus. There are numerous types of rot, all of which require intervention to save the tree in many cases. Different tree rot types include Brown Rot, the most severe form of tree rot, and causes the tree to dry up and literally crumble away. White Rot, while also very serious, causes the tree to feel excessively moist and spongy instead. 

Regarding fungal infections, Rhytisma acerinum and R. punctatum are the most common in the United States. Both appear most often in late spring and early summer, and both are characterized by black tar-like raised structures on the upper surface of leaves appearing alongside yellow spots.

Leaning 

A leaning tree will often have some underlying structural issue that indicates poor health. Unless you know this tree grew at an angle, you should take action immediately to avoid catastrophic damage from an imminent fall. 

Open Wounds 

While trees respond well to careful cutting and trimming, a large open wound in a tree, like that caused by excessive storm damage or lightning, can weaken and eventually kill the tree. 

That’s not all – Give us a Call! 

Thanks for taking the time to learn more about tree health and safety. The signs of a dying tree are numerous and should never be ignored, so if you have any questions or concerns, please give us a call. We employ a trained and certified arborist who is an expert in tree health and can often save your tree with various interventions. If removal is required or desired, rest easy knowing that Red’s has operated in the Memphis area for over 40 years. We only employ the highest quality professionals to give our customers the best service.

We look forward to hearing from you! 

This post first appeared on https://redstreeservice.com

Prevent your trees from rapid decline and death when wood-boring insects attack. Knowing how to control wood-boring insects will help you keep your Marietta, Georgia, trees healthy and thriving.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered wood-boring insect species, identification, and control information to help you keep your Marietta, Georgia, trees safe.

Wood-Boring Insects

Wood-boring insects include a range of arthropods that cause damage to trees and wooden structures. This group of insects features an array of insect species at different life cycle stages (from larvae to adults). Wood-boring insects are seen as pests due to the potentially severe damage they cause in urban and rural areas.

Wood-Boring Insect Control

Systemic insecticides applied via trunk injection, bark sprays, or as a soil drench are effective against flathead borers and may be the only practical method for treating tall trees. Popular systemic insecticides include:

• Bonide Systemic Granules
• Mighty Mint Insect and Pest Control
• Natria Neem Oil Spray

Tip: Apply a systemic insecticide for trees when it is in the growing season.

Contact pesticides control wood-boring insects when they come in direct contact with the pest. Systemic insecticides are absorbed by and transported through plant tissue. Such products can render some or all of a plant toxic to insects that feed on it. Some common contact insecticides are:

• Pyrethroids (bifenthrin and permethrin)
• Chlorantraniliprole
• Imidacloprid
• Dinotefuran
• Emamectin benzoate
• Azadirachtin

Note: Each state has its own standards regarding pesticide use. Make sure you can legally use a pesticide before applying it to your tree(s).

Tip: Hire a professional tree service to treat your trees and alert regional representatives of any potential widespread infestations.

Wood-Boring Insect Species

Wood or tree borers could be bark beetles, twig pruners, or flat-headed borers, among other species. All boring insects are a hazard to a tree’s health, surrounding structures, and people. Consider the following species information:

1. Bark Beetles (Scolytinae)

Bark beetles tunnel under tree bark, cutting off its supply of food and water needed to survive. Bark beetles can kill a mature tree in two to four weeks during warmer months.

Identification – Bark beetle adults are tiny, cylindrical, hard-bodied insects about the size of a rice grain.
Tree Damage – Some trees slowly fade in color from green to brown, while others may die within a few weeks of infestation (these trees may not show signs of chlorosis, fading, or decline for several months.
Control Method(s) – If trees are infested, prune and dispose of bark beetle-infested limbs. If the tree’s trunk is extensively infested, the entire tree should be removed.

Note: The only effective treatment for bark beetles is preventative.

Vulnerable Tree Species: Bark beetles are attracted to tree species that are stressed, diseased, or injured.

2. Twig and Branch Pruners (Elaphidionoides and Agrilus species)

This insect is considered a secondary invader of trees in decline. The twig pruner attacks healthy twigs and small branches (the female lays an egg in the bark, and when the eggs hatch, the legless grubs bore into the twig). Mature larvae chew concentric cuts outward in the white wood without chewing through the bark. The infested branch eventually drops to the ground with the larva inside.

Identification – The twig pruner is a slender grayish-yellow, long-horned beetle about ½ inch long.
Tree Damage – Twig and branch pruner larvae feed beneath the bark, girdling twigs and branches.
Control Method(s) – Pick up and destroy any detached twigs. The insect’s life cycle is completed inside these fallen twigs. Eliminating the litter interrupts the twig pruner’s life cycle, so they never have a chance to mature and reproduce.

Vulnerable Tree Species:

• Hickory (Carya)
• Maple (Acer)
• Oak (Quercus)
• Pecan (Carya illinoinensis)
• Redbud (Cercis canadensis)
• Elm (Ulmus)

3. Bronze Birch Borer (Agrilus anxius)

The bronze birch borer is found throughout birch ranges in the US and Canada. It attacks and breeds in birch trees but has been spotted in beech and aspen stands.

Identification – Bronze birch borers are ¼ to ½ inch long, slender, dark iridescent, and bronze colored.
Tree Damage – Signs of this insect include off-color and thinning foliage in a birch’s upper canopy, dead branches in the upper crown, and swollen ridges on the tree’s trunk and branches.
Control Method(s) – Between May and June, you can spray infested trees with horticultural oil, permethrin, or bendiocarb to kill hatching larvae and adults emerging from the bark and feeding on leaves.

Vulnerable Tree Species:

• Paper birch
• Yellow birch
• Gray birch
• Western birch
• Water birch
• Sweet birch

4. Emerald Ash Borer (Agrilus planipennis) (EAB)

The emerald ash borer (Agrilus planipennis or EAB) is an invasive wood-boring beetle. Despite their color and appearance, these beetles are difficult to spot in the wild!

Identification – Adult EABs are bright, metallic green, with red metallic abdominal segments beneath their wing covers. This beetle is about ½ inch long and 1/8 inch wide with a flattened back.
Tree Damage – Larvae feed on the inner bark of ash trees from early summer to mid-fall, causing hydraulic failure and death. Infested native ash trees are all susceptible to attack.
Control Method(s) – When caught in an infestation’s early stages, emerald ash borer can be controlled by using systemic insecticides that are taken into the tree and move to areas where they can kill adults (leaves) or the flathead borer larvae (cambium).

Vulnerable Tree Species: In North America, all ash tree species can be attacked by EAB.

5. Carpenter Ants (Camponotus)

Carpenter ants get their common name because they excavate decayed wood to build their nests. Their excavation results in smooth tunnels inside wood. Similar to termites, this excavation activity can severely compromise a tree’s structural soundness.

Identification – Carpenter ants are about a half-inch long and completely black with yellowish hairs on the abdomen.
Tree Damage – This species does not eat wood; they only tunnel and chew through it to create nests. Typically, these ants burrow into trees already compromised by disease, softening their hardwood and facilitating the insect infestation.
Control Method(s) – A soap and water mixture is toxic to carpenter ants. Mix one part dish soap with two parts water in a spray bottle. Spray this mixture on the ants and around their nesting site as needed to kill them and eliminate their pheromone trails. Continue treating problem areas until the ants no longer return.

Vulnerable Tree Species: Any tree species compromised by a fungal infection.

Tip: Some insects are affected and can be contained without toxic checmicals, so read the following to learn how to make homeade bug spray.

Wood-Boring Insects in Marietta, Georgia

In this article, you discovered essential species, identification, and control information on several wood-boring insects adversely affecting Marietta, Georgia’s tree population.

Knowing how to identify wood-boring insects and control them will help you preserve your trees while keeping these insects from spreading unhindered.

Ignoring the need to control wood-boring insects can lead to the rapid decline and death of trees, potentially causing catastrophic damage when they topple.

Sources:
entomology.ca.uky.edu/ent43
xerces.org/systemic-insecticides-reference-and-overview
extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/insects/insecticides-used-to-control-emerald-ash-borer-on-residential-shade-trees-5-626/
emeraldashborer.info/faq.php
content.ces.ncsu.edu/twig-pruner
readyforwildfire.org/forest-health/bark-beetle-information/about-bark-beetles/

For the original version of this article visit: http://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com/how-to-control-wood-boring-insects-in-marietta-georgia-trees/

Keep treatable diseases from infecting and killing your pine trees. Recognizing the signs of disease and taking action to stop them will help you keep your pine trees robust and stable.

72tree.com gathered the following information and tips about pine tree disease signs, treatments, and prevention.

Pine Tree Disease

In years with heavy rainfall or severe drought, pine trees may brown in response. Browning is typically caused by the pine tree’s inability to uptake sufficient water to keep its needles fresh and alive. When moisture is overly abundant (and drainage is poor), root rot and other diseases are often the culprits. Consider the following pine tree diseases:

1. Annosus Root Disease (Heterobasidion annosum)

Heterobasidion annosum is a basidiomycete fungus in the Bondarzewiaceae family. It is considered one of the most economically damaging forest pathogens in the Northern Hemisphere. Heterobasidion annosum is widespread in US forests and is responsible for $1 billion in annual pine tree losses.

Appearance – In some cases, resin flow may appear near the root collar as the tree attempts to defend itself against attack. Diseased pines may show crown thinning and yellowing. In pine trees, the disease is most active in the sapwood, killing tissues and heartwood as it progresses.
Treatment – Carefully remove and destroy infected trees and stumps. Any stumps left in the ground should be treated with borax.
Prevention – This disease typically enters a pine tree stand when spores land on freshly cut limbs or stump surfaces. The fungus grows from the stump into nearby live trees via root grafts or contacts. For prevention, treat stumps with borax whenever thinning in a high-hazard area.

2. Diplodia Tip Blight (Sphaeropsis sapinea)

Diplodia blight, previously called Sphaeropsis tip blight, is a common fungal disease of stressed conifers, most typically pines with needles in bunches of 2’s and 3’s.

Appearance – Needles of new shoots will remain stunted, turn straw-colored, and will be glued in place from excess resin. Mature needles on branches end up killed by girdling cankers. Sticky, clear-to-white resin is found on dead twigs, the main stem, or branches with cankers.
Treatment – If you previously had problems with Diplodia, consider applying fungicides as the candles are expanding and then two more applications at 2-week intervals (bud break, half candle, and full candle). This typically prevents any spores from being disseminated from infecting the tree’s succulent new growth.
Prevention – Proper tree care, including increased irrigation during drought, pruning, and equipment sanitation are often effective methods for control of Diplodia tip blight and canker, especially when pines are newly infected.

3. Dothistroma Needle Blight (Dothistroma septosporum)

Pine trees of all ages can become infected. Symptoms are typically first seen at the base of the crown on older needles. Infected needles develop yellow and tan spots and bands, which soon turn red. As the disease progresses, the ends of the needles turn reddish-brown while the needle base oddly remains green.

Appearance – Reddish brown spots or bands appear on needles in the fall. Needle spots girdle the pine’s needles. The needle beyond the band dies and turns brown, leaving the bottom portion of the needle green. Tiny black fungal fruiting bodies will appear in the bands or the needle’s dead areas.
Treatment – A copper fungicide spray is an effective method to prevent needle cast. Other useful fungicides are chlorothalonil and mancozeb.
Prevention – If your trees have a history of Dothistroma needle blight, copper fungicides can protect new needles from infection. Fungicides need to be applied before buds open in the spring.

4. Fusiform Rust (Cronartium quercuum)

Fusiform rust is caused by a curious fungus that produces five spore stages and requires an oak and a pine tree to complete its life cycle.

Appearance – Fusiform rust is caused by Cronartium quorum f. sp. fusiforme. It produces bright orange spores on southern yellow pines, especially loblolly pine, in springtime.
Treatment – Avoid planting any rust susceptible pine tree species in locations where fusiform rust is or has been an issue. Pruning branch cankers and completely removing diseased branches can help lower potential trunk infection. However, once the trunk is infected, branch pruning is no longer recommended (careful tree removal and destruction is).
Prevention – Disease prevention is best accomplished by planting resistant pine species and treating all oak trees growing anywhere in the vicinity of your pine trees.

5. Needle Rust (Chrysomyxa ledicola Logerh)

Pine or spruce needle rust is easily identified by pale, white, or orange blisters appearing on infected needles (in summertime). White blisters will appear on the current year’s needle growth.

Appearance – Yellow-to-orange spots or bands appear on green needles in spring. In late spring to early summer, tiny, raised, white tubes form on needles breaking open to release powdery, orange spores. These infected needles can remain attached to the tree for several years.
Treatment – Needle rust is considered a minor stress on pine trees and typically requires no management efforts. However, when necessary, the most efficient rust disease control is to carefully prune and destroy affected areas and remove any visible galls (abnormal growths) in late winter or early spring before they can produce spores.
Prevention – Follow these best practices to help prevent spruce needle rust:

• Redirect lawn sprinklers away from pine branches and needles.
• Plant your spruce trees far enough apart to allow good air circulation between them.
• Prune out and destroy wilted or blighted stems and branches.

Note: In most cases, pine needle rust is a cosmetic issue, and no management is needed.

Pine Tree Disease Control

In this article, you discovered essential information and pro tips on identifying, treating, and preventing several pine tree diseases.

Knowing how to identify, control, and prevent deadly pine tree diseases will help you keep your pine trees thriving while stopping these diseases from spreading across your landscape.

Failing to recognize signs of diseased pine trees will lead to their death, potentially causing catastrophic damages and life-threatening injury when they fall.

Sources:
tfsweb.tamu.edu/uploadedFiles/TFSMain/Manage_Forest_and_Land/Forest_Health/Stewardship/Annosum_Root_Disease.pdf
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5299327.pdf
extension.umn.edu/plant-diseases/diplodia-shoot-blight-and-canker
forestry.ces.ncsu.edu/2017/04/so-what-is-the-orange-stuff-on-my-pine-trees/
extension.psu.edu/spruce-needle-rust

Photo Credit: craven.ces.ncsu.edu

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/5-pine-tree-diseases-and-treatments/

Removing a tree from your yard is one thing, but removing the stump is another altogether. Although some smaller trees can be removed root and stem, most tree roots are too large to pull out alongside the tree, making cutting at the stump the safest and most efficient option. 

But now that you’ve removed the tree in your yard, removing the stump is the next logical step, and we’re here to help. If you’re wondering why tree removal is necessary, keep reading to hear what our experts at Red’s Tree Service have to say about the topic!

Safety

One of the biggest reasons to remove a tree stump following a tree removal is to keep your family and yard safe. Depending on how high the tree stump is, it could prove to be a hazard for anyone walking around or playing in the yard. 

Imagine your child is “going long” for a touchdown pass in a family football game and tripping backwards over the stump. When weeds and grass begin to cover the stump, you could accidentally run over it while cutting the grass, which could damage or break your lawn mower. 

Aesthetics

Most people plant trees to increase their home’s curb appeal, but a tree stump can be a real eye sore. Not only do tree stumps take up space that could be used for other plant life, they could turn future buyers away from buying your home should you choose to sell, simply because of the aesthetics. 

Infection

Left following a tree removal, tree stumps can take nutrients from surrounding plants you actually do want to grow. What’s more is that decaying tree stumps breed fungus that infects nearby trees, which may then need to be chopped down too. Even worse, decaying stumps can house termites, ants, beetles, wood wasps, snakes and rodents, all of which can cause damage to your yard and your house. Ridding these tree pests of your property and repairing what they damaged can be costly and time consuming.

New Tree Growth

In the worst case scenario, leaving a tree stump behind could cause a new tree to grow back in the same place. A new tree can piggyback off of the nutrients supplied by the old roots, allowing it to produce a multi-trunked tree that will be an even bigger eyesore than the stump – and even more hazardous than the original tree. The new tree and the old stump also become harder to permanently kill and remove over time, so it’s easier to remove the stump initially, along with the original tree to make sure the change to your yard is permanent. 

How We Can Help

A professional tree service like Red’s will be able to diagnose and execute the best removal method for the type, size, age and health state of your stump. Our tree stump removal team has the heavy duty equipment necessary to perform stump grinding efficiently and the training to complete the task safely. 

We also have the knowledge and expertise to answer any questions you may have about surrounding pipes and wires, or what can grow in the remaining space. Additionally, a tree service like ours can recycle or dispose of the debris, so you don’t have to worry about taking it somewhere or arranging for the city to pick it up.

Call Red’s Tree Service

Removing tree stumps can often be much more difficult than removing a tree itself, and that’s because of the massive root system they hide underground. Instead of attempting a hazardous and lengthy DIY removal, it’s time to turn to your local tree experts at Red’s Tree Service. Call our team for your free estimate today!

This post first appeared on https://redstreeservice.com

It’s that time of the year again when we start to prepare for the winter weather approaching. Winter can be really tough on a person’s home and their yard. Winter storms, in particular, can be brutal, complete with ice, sleet, snow, rain, flooding, thunder, lightning, and whipping winds.

In New Jersey, you probably hear the local news stations issue “winter weather advisories.” This means you should watch out for freezing rain, sleet and snow. A “winter storm watch” warns people to expect heavy freezing rain or snow. Finally, a “winter storm warning” is issued when the storm is imminent. If the wind gusts are expected to be above 35 miles-per-hour for three hours or more, then it’s called a blizzard.

Damages to Your Property and Trees

Winter storms and blizzards can break the limbs off of trees. In some cases, trees may topple over due to high winds and freezing precipitation weighing them down.

Should you experience broken or downed trees in your yard this winter, Big Foot Tree Service handles emergency tree removals in New Jersey. Hanging limbs can be dangerous, and if a tree falls in the yard, especially close to a home or over a driveway, it needs to be taken care of promptly.

Professional Tree Removal Services in New Jersey

Big Foot Tree Service has the kind of workers who can handle tree removal even during the harsh winter weather conditions. With affordable prices, Big Foot Tree Service handles tree removals in several counties throughout Northern New Jersey. Call 973-885-8000 for emergency tree removal service.

The post Tree Services After a Severe Storm Causes Damage appeared first on Big Foot Tree Service.

This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com

Don’t choose the wrong species when you are looking for that captivating tree and want to stand out from your neighbors. Knowing which specimen tree to plant in your Marietta, Georgia, yard will help you stand out from your neighbors and give you an enduring conversation topic with your friends and loved ones.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered the following species, planting, and growing information about 5 incredible specimen trees for your Marietta, Georgia, yard.

What is a Specimen Tree?

A specimen tree is an unusual or impressive plant grown as a point of interest in a garden, yard, or landscape. Specimen trees provide beauty with their fragrant flowers, fall color foliage, or impressive size. Consider the following specimen tree species for your Marietta, Georgia yard:

1. Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum)

This incredible maple displays bright green foliage in spring and summer, then turns a stunning golden yellow and red in the fall.

Size at Maturity – This species can reach 15 to 25 feet tall with a 15 to 20-foot spread.
Soil Requirements – Japanese maples thrive when planted in well-drained, acidic soil high in organic matter.
Sun Exposure – Dappled or Afternoon Shade
Water Needs – Water this species heavily twice weekly during typical weather and increase waterings to three or four times during droughts.
Hardiness Zone – 5 through 8

2. Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida)

The flowering dogwood is a small, showy, deciduous tree species. Young trees tend to be upright to rounded, and as they mature, they typically grow up to 50 percent wider than tall. The tree’s crown is typically round to flat-topped. Dogwoods are most recognized for their cross-shaped white or pink bracts.

Size at Maturity – This species can reach up to 25+ feet tall with a 25-foot spread.
Soil Requirements – Dogwoods thrive in fertile, somewhat moisture-retentive, loamy soil high in organic matter.
Sun Exposure – This species can be planted in full sun or partial shade (partial shade is best)
Water Needs – Dogwood trees require about an inch of water weekly from rain or irrigation. If rainfall is insufficient, water your tree enough to soak several inches into the soil once weekly. For newly planted dogwoods, two gallons per week are adequate except in drier, sandier soils where 6 to 8 gallons weekly may be necessary.
Hardiness Zone – 5 through 9

3. Southern Magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora)

Southern magnolia is a large, broadleaf, evergreen tree noted for its attractive glossy dark green leaves and massive, extremely fragrant flowers. Magnolias are believed to be among the earliest known flowering plants, with fossils dating back over 100 million years.

Size at Maturity – This species can reach 60 to 80 feet tall with a 40-foot spread.
Soil Requirements – This species thrives in moist, well-drained, acidic soils. Unlike other tree species, it is tolerant of high moisture levels and can be planted in areas prone to wet/dry fluctuations in soil moisture.
Sun Exposure – This species can be planted in full sun or partial shade.
Water Needs – For every 1-inch of trunk diameter, water a 1-foot radius from the tree’s base.
Hardiness Zone – 6 through 10

4. Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia)

Crape myrtles are deciduous, small to medium-sized trees with a variable, moderately dense habit, often multi-stemmed form. The species’ foliage is typically dark green changing to yellows, oranges, and reds in autumn. This species is considered a specimen due to its stunning flower clusters with wrinkled petals like crepe paper.

Size at Maturity – This species can reach 15 to 25 feet tall with a 6 to 15-foot spread.
Soil Requirements – Crape Myrtles can be grown all over the USA in any soil type and will thrive in acidic to slightly acidic soil ranging from 5.0 to 6.5 pH.
Sun Exposure – Crape myrtles need full sun (6 or more hours per day) to thrive.
Water Needs – This species needs at least one inch of water per week.
Hardiness Zone – 7 through 10

5. Crabapple (Malus)

The crabapple is a beautiful, small, deciduous spring-flowering tree that is prized for its flowers, fruit, and variations in growth habit and size. Some crabapple varieties bloom heavily only every other year.

Size at Maturity – This species can reach 10 to 25 feet tall with a 10 to 25-foot spread.
Soil Requirements – Crabapples thrive in rich loam-type soil (a combination of clay, silt, and sand). Good drainage is a must for tree health, and the soil should be moist, slightly acidic, and with a 5.0 to 6.5 pH.
Sun Exposure – This species needs at least six hours of sun a day to guarantee ample blossoming and fruiting.
Water Needs – Once established, crabapples are drought tolerant and should not need supplemental watering unless the season is considerably dry.
Hardiness Zone – 3 through 8

Specimen Trees

In this article, you discovered essential species information for 5 stunning specimen trees that you can plant in your Marietta, Georgia, yard.

Planting a stunning specimen tree makes your front yard stand out from your neighbors, gives you decades of conversation, and offers a visual delight as the tree matures.

Not knowing the specimen species best for your Marietta, Georgia yard can have you being a copycat of your neighbor, or plant the wrong tree and risk it dying.

Sources:
edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/ST023
plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/cornus-florida/
extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C974
landscapeplants.oregonstate.edu/plants/lagerstroemia-indica
hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/crabapple/

For the original version of this article visit: http://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com/5-specimen-trees-for-your-marietta-georgia-yard/

Avoid planting run-of-mill trees and having a basic landscape. Knowing the unique trees that can grow in your Alpharetta landscape will create a captivating aesthetic and curb appeal.

72tree.com gathered the following species and growing information about 7 of the most beautiful trees to plant in your Alpharetta, Georgia, landscape.

1. Southern Live Oak (Quercus virginiana)

Live oak grows to be a massive, picturesque, sprawling tree with magnificent horizontal and arching branches that form a broad, rounded, and majestic canopy. A squat, tapering trunk supports the massive, irregular limbs, often resting their “elbows” on the ground.

Size at Maturity – On average, this species reaches 50 feet in height with an 80+ foot spread.
Soil Requirements – The live oak thrives in acidic, alkaline, loamy, moist, sandy, well-drained, and clay soils.
Sun Exposure – Full sun to partial shade
Water Needs – While your oak tree establishes its root system and matures for the first 2 to 3 years, you should water it weekly. It will take about 10 gallons of water per inch of trunk diameter to keep this species thriving.
Hardiness Zone – 7 through 10

2. Rhododendron (Rhododendron)

Rhododendron, or “red tree,” refers to the red flowers and woody growth of some species, but rhododendrons can range in habit from evergreen to deciduous and from low-growing shrubs to tall, stunning trees.

Size at Maturity – This species can reach 5 to 20 feet tall with a 3 to 8-foot spread (depending on the variety).
Soil Requirements – Rhododendrons thrive in well-draining soil with abundant organic matter.
Sun Exposure – Full sun
Water Needs – Water rhododendrons twice weekly during the first growing season. Once established, only water them during dry periods.
Hardiness Zone – 4 through 8

3. Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum)

This incredible maple shows off bright green foliage in spring and summer, then turns golden yellow and red in the fall.

Size at Maturity – This species can reach from 15 to 25 feet tall with a 15 to 20-foot spread.
Soil Requirements – Japanese maples thrive when planted in well-drained, acidic soil high in organic matter.
Sun Exposure – Dappled or Afternoon Shade
Water Needs – Water this species heavily twice weekly during normal weather and increase waterings to three or four times during droughts.
Hardiness Zone – 5 through 8

4. Weeping Cherry (Prunus subhirtella)

This cherry tree variety generally features non-fragrant pale pink to white flowers in spring, pea-sized blackish (inedible) fruits in late summer, and ovate to lanceolate green leaves gently swaying on drooping branches and stems.

Size at Maturity – This species can reach from 20 to 25 feet tall with a 15 to 20-foot spread.
Soil Requirements – Weeping cherry trees are highly-adaptable to a range of soil types but flourish in loose, well-drained, loamy soil.
Sun Exposure – Full sun
Water Needs – A weeping cherry tree should be watered two to three times weekly during its first year. Afterward, it should only be watered when the top three inches of soil are dry.
Hardiness Zone – 4 through 9

5. Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis)

This tree species displays a variety of colors throughout the year. Leaves emerge reddish, turning vibrant green as they expand. The tree’s foliage is dark green in summer and yellowish in autumn. The tree’s showy flowers are pea-like and rosy pink with a purplish tinge.

Size at Maturity – This species can reach from 20 to 30 feet tall with a 25 to 35-foot spread.
Soil Requirements – Eastern redbud trees thrive in acidic, alkaline, loamy, moist, nutrient-rich, sandy, well-drained, and clay soil.
Sun Exposure – Full sun to partial shade
Water Needs – Water your eastern redbud two to three times weekly during its first year. Afterward, it should only be watered when the top three inches of soil are dry.
Hardiness Zone – 4 through 9

6. Rainbow Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus deglupta)

The rainbow eucalyptus is an evergreen tree with drooping spear-shaped, silvery-green leaves and curious clusters of tiny white flowers. The tree’s most stunning feature is the trunk, which grows rainbow bark in vibrant (nearly fluorescent) green, blue, orange, red, and purple shades. When planted in cooler areas, this tree species will require shelter from freezing wind and extremely low temperatures.

Size at Maturity – This species can reach 60 to 80 feet tall with a 20 to 30-foot spread.
Soil Requirements – This species thrives in sandy, loamy soils that are fertile, moist, and well-drained.
Sun Exposure – Full sun
Water Needs – Water your tree daily for best results, never flooding the tree with standing water.
Hardiness Zone – 9 through 11

7. Red Oak (Quercus rubra)

Most red oak leaves fade to brilliant red or orange-red shades in fall and will hold their color longer than other deciduous trees. Some red oak trees have yellow fall foliage instead of red.

Size at Maturity – This species can reach 60 to 75 feet tall with a 45-foot spread.
Soil Requirements – Like other oak species, red oak thrives in acidic, loamy, moist, sandy, well-drained, and clay soils.
Sun Exposure – Full sun to partial sun
Water Needs – While your oak tree establishes its root system and matures for the first 2 to 3 years, you should water it weekly. It will take about 10 gallons of water per inch of trunk diameter to keep this species thriving.
Hardiness Zone – 3 through 8

Beautiful Landscape Trees

In this article, you discovered essential species and growing tips for seven of the most attractive tree species for Alpharetta, Georgia, landscapes.

Knowing which tree species possess beautiful features will help you add intrigue and stunning visuals to your Alpharetta, Ga, landscape.

Not knowing the tree species capable of enhancing your Alpharetta, Georgia yard will leave your landscape dull and impressive.

Sources:
plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/quercus-virginiana/
hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/rhododendron-2/
edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/ST023
bellarmine.edu/faculty/drobinson/WeepingCherry.asp
extension.umass.edu/plant-identification/eastern-redbud
gms.ctahr.hawaii.edu/gs/handler/getmedia.ashx?moid=6149&dt=3&g=12
naturalresources.extension.iastate.edu/forestry/iowa_trees/trees/red_oak.html

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/7-beautiful-trees-for-alpharetta-georgia-landscapes/

Over time it has become no secret that bees, birds, and butterflies are essential to not only having a beautifully flourishing yard, but they are also essential to the ecosystems throughout the Portland area and the rest of the world. The rainy climate in Portland and the rest of the Pacific Northwest allow all plants and greenery to thrive here. Lush trees, blooming flowers, and mild summers are the perfect climate for birds, bees, and butterflies to thrive.

Birds, bees, and butterflies are essential to all ecosystems across the world. Pollination occurs when plant pollen grains from a male plant are transferred to a female plant. Through this process, the female plant is effectively fertilized and creates seeds. Pollination is possible due to bees, birds, butterflies, beetles, wasps, and a vast array of other insects and mammals. It is not uncommon for individuals to see bees and butterflies in their yards with legs chock-full of pollen. They take the pollen and collect it by sticking it to their legs, and as they travel from flower to flower they effectively help pollinate the plants in the yard and surrounding area. Birds, bees, and butterflies are some of the most effective at helping to create diverse landscapes throughout Portland. 

Portland is home to many different species of feathered life, including Great Blue Herons, Western Tanagers, and Anna’s Hummingbirds, whether it be year-round or just for a couple of months. On top of that, over 500 species of bees live throughout Oregon, accompanied by Monarch butterflies, Red Admiral butterflies, and Painted lady butterflies. With such a high amount of diversity in not only species but colors and behaviors, it’s easy to see why so many homeowners wish to design their landscaping with the hopes that they will attract and provide sustenance for the local birds, bees, and butterflies. One way to do this is to plant trees that are a bird, bee, and butterfly friendly. Not only will these types of trees provide a unique and charming aesthetic to the landscaping, they will also provide shelter and sustenance to the gorgeous birds, bees, and butterflies that live in the area. 

The best way to determine which trees will work best with the landscaping and attract the most wildlife, hiring a certified arborist at Urban Forest Pro is the best choice. We have the ability to create a yard that is landscaped to invite and embrace all types of wildlife, including the vast array of birds, bees, and butterflies in Portland. 

What Should You Plant in Portland to Attract Bees, Butterflies, and Birds?

There are a plethora of trees and shrubs that thrive in Portland that will also attract bees, butterflies, and birds. Ultimately, the best choice for wildlife-attracting trees depends upon the homeowner’s landscaping needs and wants. Consulting our team of expert arborists and relaying wants and needs is the best way to determine the perfect plants and trees for each home. However, to give homeowners an idea of what some of their options are, we have compiled a list of trees that attract all kinds of wildlife, including bees, butterflies, and birds. 

1. Cherry Trees

Oregon is one of the top producers of cherries in the world. In fact, around $67 million of total cherry sales in the United States come from Oregon. Most varieties of cherry trees are commonly found in the Pacific Northwest and attract bees, birds, and butterflies in large quantities. One of the most commonly found is the Chokecherry tree.  Chokecherry trees are a great addition to any landscape designed to embrace wildlife. Chokecherry tree flowers bloom in small clusters and boast beautiful white flowers from early April to late May. These flowers provide more than an ample amount of pollen for butterflies and bees to harvest. They also provide opportunities for bees to build their homes and caterpillars to create cocoons to start their transformation process into butterflies. After the flowers have blossomed, dark purplish-black cherries take their place that attract all kinds of species of birds. Birds also love to use the cherry tree branches to create their nests and raise their young. 

It is recommended to refrain from planting cherry trees if cattle or sheep have access to them. Cherries are toxic to such animals, and when they ferment can cause the animal to essentially become drunk. Due to the immense quantity of cherries that are created, it is very likely that the cherry tree will spread throughout the landscaping as well. So if a homeowner does not want more than one cherry tree they will have to be effective and consistent about removing any growing sapling in their yard. 

2. Crabapple Trees

The western crabapple tree is the only native crabapple tree in Portland and the rest of Oregon. Many bird species frequent crabapple trees as they provide edible fruit. The Cedar waxwing and American robin are two species of bird commonly seen around Portland that love to enjoy the fruits of crabapple trees. Robins like to visit fruit trees later in the day, and waxwings will eat fruit any time it is available. Waxwings are notoriously known for eating fermented fruit and becoming visibly under the influence. 

The flowers of the crab apple tree provide ample amounts of flowers for bees and butterflies to get their fill and contribute to pollinating the area. It provides safety for all sorts of animals including, bees, birds, and butterflies. Crab apple trees require little maintenance and only need pruning once a year. Not only do they provide sustenance and a home for birds, bees, and butterflies, but they also provide visually appealing pinks, reds, purples, yellows, and oranges to brighten up the landscape. 

3. Maple Trees

Maple trees are a perfect example of how birds, bees, and butterflies work together. Since Maple trees do not produce flowers, bees must take a different approach to access the sugary sap that the Maple tree produces. In Portland, there are six species of woodpeckers that help the bees and butterflies find food. The Red Breasted Sapsucker, Northern Flicker, and the Downy Woodpecker are just a few of the bird species that create holes in Maple trees in an effort to extract beetles and other edible insects. Once the birds have moved on to find other sources of food, the bees and butterflies feast on the sugary sap that oozes from the holes made by the birds. 

Maple trees are an excellent addition to most landscapes. In the fall their colors provide an appealing and gorgeous array of yellows, reds, and oranges that will brighten up any yard. Those who wish can collect sap and create their own maple syrups if they wish to do so. Otherwise, Maple trees tend to be fairly low maintenance while still providing an abundance of food and safe space for birds, bees, and butterflies. 

4. Oak Trees

Food is not the only thing that attracts birds to landscapes. Shelter and a safe place to raise their young is the ultimate decider where a bird will live and frequent. Oak trees not only provide ample amounts of cover with their branches, but they also provide safety with their great heights. Birds love living in Oak trees as it is harder for predators on the ground to reach the birds way up in the tree. It is also easy for birds to reach the acorns that fall on the ground around the Oak trees and quickly return to safety.

There are two species of Oak that are native to the Portland area: Oregon White Oak and California Black Oak. However, other species of Oak trees have been known to thrive in the Pacific Northwest. Some species are shorter than others, but they can range in size from 50ft to 100ft tall. They thrive in Portland’s moist climate as they do well in soil that is not too dry. Due to the sheer size of these trees, and the fact that they have the ability to live for over a century, these trees need more maintenance than others to ensure they thrive and provide the best habitat for attracting birds. 

5. Dogwood Trees

There are several varieties of Dogwood trees that are native to the Portland area. They tend to do well in partial sun, but can still thrive in both heat and full sunshine. They grow up to 30 feet tall and provide the perfect environment for birds to build nests. These types of trees are usually inhabited by birds that prefer to be closer to the ground but are still tall enough to provide safety from ground predators. The various variety of Dogwood trees in Portland creates beautiful year-round additions to any landscape. Their deep purple or dark red colored berries are a staple for many different species of birds. 

6. Evergreen Trees

Nesting sites for birds such as chickadees should be covered with a high density of vegetation. A common habitat for them is theedges of Portland forests, but these trees can also be grown in Portland backyards. Homeowners can plant various Evergreen trees in their yards, from firs to pines, to cedars and hemlocks. Their seeds are a food source for a wide variety of birds and animals, and they maintain their dense greenery all year long, making them a safe home for many varieties of animals.

Warblers’ nests are often built within the branches of Evergreen trees, giving them the advantage of being high, nestled, and camouflaged within needled trees. Predators are less likely to catch them this way. There are many varieties of Evergreen trees, with dwarf varieties growing up to 10 feet tall, while others can reach 100 feet tall. 

Tips for Planting & Caring for Plants & Trees to Attract Pollinators

When thinking of planting pollinator plants and trees in a yard, in theory, it sounds easy and straightforward. However, there are a few things that homeowners must keep in mind when planting pollinator plants. The main objective of planting pollinator plants in Portland landscapes is to create healthy and nourishing sources of food and shelter for birds, bees, and butterflies. Here are a few tips on how to do so. 

When To Plant

When growing from seed, the best time to plant pollinator plants is in the fall or late winter. The seeds will need time to germinate, and when not sped up through human process, they will take more time to do so. In the fall, it is best to disperse seeds and cover them with soil. When the winter snow begins to thaw in the spring it will provide moisture to the seeds to help germinate them.  When planting in late winter, scatter the seeds over the top of the snow. Once the sun begins to heat up, the seeds will anchor to the snow and when it begins to melt it will provide moisture to help the seed germinate. 

When starting with pollinator plants instead of seeds, it’s important to follow the frost guidance for each plant. This will help prevent planting them too early and will give them the best chance at thriving. The holes for the pollinator plants should be dug just big enough to fit their root system, and then covered to reinforce the roots with soil or compost. Adding mulch will help reduce the amount of weed growth around the plants. 

Refrain From Using Chemicals

Many homeowners use chemicals, including pesticides in urban and agricultural areas to kill invertebrate pests, diseases, and weeds. However, these chemicals and pesticides are not biased when it comes to the types of insects and animals they kill. They will harm or kill massive populations of bees and butterflies if they are sprayed on or near pollinator plants. Additionally, birds who eat fruit or insects that have been sprayed with pesticides, fungicides, herbicides, or other chemicals can become sick and die as well. Other stressors, such as loss of habitat and disease exposure, can compound the effects of pesticide exposure on pollinator populations. 

Chemical contamination is not just local to the plant but can be spread throughout an ecosystem. In fact, more than 90% of pollen samples from beehives as well as stream samples are contaminated with at least one pesticide. This isn’t only just harmful to bees, birds, and butterflies, but it is also harmful to a homeowner’s landscaping. Without the necessary pollinators needed, flowers and trees won’t effectively be able to pollinate themselves and will therefore lack in appearance. 

Create Pollinator Nesting Areas

Unkempt areas, including tree and bush branches, are the perfect nesting habitat. Bee and butterfly sanctuaries can be created from old scrap wood pieces, hollow stems, and drilled bee blocks or nest boxes. Do not clear nests or cocoons out of trees and plants, as the nests will be reused year after year, and the cocoon holds what will eventually turn into a butterfly. 

If you are considering planting trees in Portland, Oregon, to attract birds, bees, and butterflies or need help with a current tree on your property, we offer a number of professional tree services for our customers to help maintain, remove, or select new trees.

This post first appeared on https://www.urbanforestprofessionals.com

Avoid a dark and potentially dangerous landscape due to not knowing how to properly light it. Knowing where and how to use landscape lighting will enhance your home’s security, highlight your yard’s features, and increase your home’s curb appeal.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered the following information on where and how to place landscape lighting to increase your home’s value and enhance its safety.

Where Should I Put Front Yard Lights?

Your landscape and home can appear more beautiful and illuminated, and front yard landscape lighting naturally increases security by lighting up your entryways. Well-lit homes and yards are significantly less likely to be vandalized or invaded. Consider the following:

Path Lights – These are excellent lighting sources around the perimeter of a yard or to define a driveway/pathway entrance and illuminate walkway areas. This method of outdoor lighting adds to the overall ambiance and serenity of your exterior space.

Tip: Ideally, the lamps should be placed 10 to 15 feet apart, creating connecting pools of light that gently lead the way.

Hanging Lights – These fixtures are perfect for above a front door, gazebo, or porch area. They help with general illumination and add sophisticated detail to your home’s exterior living or gathering space.

Up and Down Lights – Uplights are placed at ground level and aimed up to highlight focal or interest points in the landscape, like specimen trees, signs, water features, and architecture. Downlights are placed above an object or area and aimed down to imitate natural lighting like simulating moonlight or for providing an added layer of security to an area.

Wall-Mounted Outdoor Lighting – This type of lighting can be mounted on either side of a front, back, or garage door, and around the home’s exterior walls. Wall lighting can significantly increase curb appeal and visibility from the street and helps a home stand out in the neighborhood.

Driveways Low-Voltage Landscape Lighting – This convenient lighting is easy to install and uses less energy than other systems, making it an excellent option to light your way home.

Steps and Stairways – Steps should always be lighted for safety, and this can be done on the risers or the treads.

Doors – Place lights to each side or overhead at the front, back, and side entry doors for increased security.

Note: Designing your landscape with light requires the same planning as traditional landscape. Identify an area, object, or focal point within the yard to be lit and its most striking features.

How Far Apart Should I Place Landscape Lights?

Generally, you have to plan where your outdoor landscape lights should be placed. It is preferable to place the lights six to eight feet apart to ensure your yard, pathways, and driveway remain bright and continuously well-lit. However, spacing them closer is an option, particularly if you are trying to create an especially vivid lighting effect.

Where Do You Put Security Spotlights?

There are a few places to install security lights. One is above garages, decks, and patios. There’s usually increased nighttime activity in these places, like walking in and out of the house. It’s great when a light is on, or comes on, so you can see where you are stepping.

Tip: Motion sensor-activated lights are best placed 7 to 10 feet above the ground and facing downwards. The higher the lights are located, the wider radius they will cover.

Solar Powered Landscape Lights

For some, outdoor, solar-powered lights are a perfect landscape lighting solution. They tend to be budget-friendly and easy to install, and you can move them exactly where you want them since they don’t rely on hard-wired power sources.

However, for others, most solar landscaping lights do not offer the durability, brilliance, and energy outputs of low-voltage LED lighting systems. Most solar landscape fixtures are poorly constructed with cheap plastics and extremely low-light output lamps. Consider the following pros and cons:

Solar Landscape Lighting Pros:

• No Electrical Connection Needed
• Long-Term Savings Potential
• Easy to Install

Solar Landscape Lighting Cons:

• Fixtures Require Sunlight to Operate
• Frequent Maintenance Required
• Inconsistent Lighting

Note: Dark corners, covered patios, and other shaded areas that may need lighting may not be appropriate locations for solar lighting.

These convenient, ready-to-use solar lights may work great in parts of your yard that get some lighting. Then, you can install traditional wired lights in other parts of the landscape that need stronger, more consistent lighting.

Should I Leave Landscape Lighting on All Night?

Yes and no. If you have general landscape lighting, keep these lights on for the entire night (dusk to dawn). Use garden lights and spotlights with motion detectors, placing them strategically around the perimeter of your home. Areas where vandals or intruders can hide from view, are of particular interest.

Note: If you select solar-powered landscape lighting, your landscape’s lighting will be limited to the amount of energy each light fixture has stored that day.

Landscape Lighting

In this article, you discovered essential information and tips on where and how to install landscape lighting on your property.

Knowing how to adequately light your yard will help you increase your home’s curb appeal and value while adding a crucial layer of security to your property.

Ignoring the need for landscape lighting can leave your property targets to thieves and vandals, while making steps and objects nighttime trip hazards.

Sources:
cals.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/byg/archive/outdoorlandscapelighting.html
hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/1994/5-25-1994/light.html

For the original version of this article visit: http://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com/where-to-place-landscape-lighting/

Skip planting coffee trees in Alpharetta, Georgia for them to only wilt and die. Knowing how and where to plant your coffee trees in Alpharetta, GA will give you a specimen tree worthy of years of conversation and appreciation.

72tree.com gathered the following species and growing information to help you plant, grow, and protect beautiful coffee trees in your yard or garden.

Is Coffee a Plant, Shrub, or Tree?

That depends on how you choose to grow them. Coffee plants are woody evergreens that can grow up to 6 feet and can be groomed to grow as large, sprawling bushes, or as short, robust trees.

Coffee Tree Information

Coffee (Coffea) is a genus of more than 120 species of flowering plants in the Rubiaceae family, mostly native to tropical Africa. Four species are primary coffee sources grown throughout the “coffee belt;” they include Arabica, Robusta, Excelsa, and Liberica. When growing coffee in Alpharetta, Georgia, consider the following species requirements:

Soil Requirement – A healthy coffee plant requires nutrient-rich, well-drained, and acidic soil. The soil also needs to be maintained at a pH level between 4.9–5.6. At these pH levels, the plant can better absorb nutrients, resulting in more coffee cherries and fewer pest or disease-related issues.

Sun Preference – This is a species of understory plants and will not thrive in direct, harsh sunlight. Coffee plants that are exposed to too much sunlight will develop chlorosis and leaf browning.

Water Requirement – Coffee plants need to be watered regularly and will droop when they are under-watered. Keep the soil moist without letting the roots sit in water.

Spacing – Place individual plants 8 feet apart to create a hedge and further apart if you plan on harvesting the beans. You’ll need to leave sufficient room to freely walk around each plant.

Hardiness Zone – Coffee trees are cold hardy to zones 10 and 11 (the Coffee Belt) but can be grown in zones 7 through 9 with proper care and protection in the colder months.

Winter Protection – This species is not frost-tolerant, so freezing temperatures are detrimental to your plant. A coffee tree exposed to temperatures below 30° F (1° C) easily dies. It is better to move the plant indoors (when grown in containers) or well-sheltered or wrapped when grown in the yard or garden.

Harvest Time – Harvest your coffee cherries from October through December. However, depending on the species and weather conditions, you may be treated to a second crop, harvested from April through June.

Note: Proper care will help you maintain and even increase your tree’s output over the years, depending on the variety. The average mature coffee tree can produce 10 pounds of coffee cherries or 2 pounds of beans annually.

Tip: Since coffee trees are so sensitive to colder weather, you may find greater success growing them in containers. This way, when cold or freezing weather approaches, your coffee trees can be moved to a greenhouse, garage, or indoors until warmer weather returns.

How to Process Coffee at Home

Harvesting, processing, and brewing your own coffee beans leaves you in absolute control of the quality, purity, and flavor of your home-grown coffee. The following steps will help you properly harvest, prepare, and brew coffee at home.

Step 1 – Pick ripe coffee cherries – Coffee cherries should be picked at their ripest when they have a dark-red exterior. This allows time for the fruit’s sugars to ferment, resulting in a deep, complex, and sweet cup of coffee when the seeds are roasted.

Step 2 – Remove the beans from the fruit – Soaking the harvested beans in water overnight will loosen the fruit from the bean, facilitating the bean’s removal.

Step 3 – Soak the beans in water for 48 hours – This step will help remove the slimy covering on your beans. They’re ready when they feel rough between your fingers instead of slick. Rinse them off and proceed to the next step.

Step 4 – Thoroughly dry the beans – This step is crucial if you intend to store the beans for any time and prevent mold. Spread the beans out on a flat surface and allow them to sun dry for 2 to 4 days. (If you intend to brew them immediately, skip this step and proceed to step 5).

Step 5 – Removing the parchment from your beans – The parchment is a naturally occurring, papery substance surrounding coffee beans (just like the membrane-like layer enveloping other fruit seeds). Hulling away the parchment is optional since some coffee beans are sold “in parchment” (or “en pergamino”). It depends on your preference.

Step 6 – Roast your beans – You can roast your coffee beans in a stainless steel skillet or pot over medium heat, bake the beans in the oven, or even roast them in an air fryer. Any way you choose, use medium heat, stirring frequently, and avoid burning them.

Step 7 – Grind and brew your coffee – Grind your roasted beans to your preferred coarseness and brew your homemade coffee how you like it.

Note: Traditionally, coffee is harvested by hand in one of two ways: strip picking or selective picking. Strip picking is exactly how it sounds, trees are harvested, “stripping” all the beans from the branches, ripened and unripened cherries. Selective picking is more time-consuming but allows you to harvest only ripe coffee cherries.

Growing Coffee in Alpharetta, Georgia

In this article, you discovered species, growing, and harvesting information to help you grow and cultivate the coffea species in Alpharetta, Georgia.

Properly caring for and protecting your coffee trees can provide your landscape with a unique fruiting plant species that can keep you well-supplied with coffee to grind.

Being ignorant to coffee tree planting and care requirements will lead to their eventual decline and death.

Sources:
blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/charlotteco/2019/06/05/coffee-a-great-ornamental-small-tree-and-maybe-a-bean-or-two/
plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/coffea-arabica/
edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/HS306

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/growing-coffee-trees-in-alpharetta-georgia/