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Having your home or family activities on display for nosy neighbors is unnecessary. Knowing which fast-growing evergreen trees to plant for screening and shade will help you regain your privacy, outdoor comfort, and potentially increase your property’s curb appeal.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered the following information about fast-growing evergreen trees to help you make informed decisions about planting the right shade and privacy trees in your yard.

Fast-Growing Evergreen Trees for Privacy


The following evergreens are fast-growing, long-lived, and highly recommended for planting as a year-round privacy screen.


American arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis) – Also known as eastern arborvitae, this species is most well-known and potentially the hardiest of the arborvitae.

• Growth and Dimensions – Provided optimal growing conditions, American arborvitae can grow as fast as 3 feet per year and reach heights of 40 to 60 feet with a spread of 4 to 12 feet at maturity.
• Hardiness Zone and Lifespan – Thuja occidentalis thrives in USDA hardiness zones 3 through 8 and can live from 50 to 150 years.
• Planting and Spacing – Plant arborvitaes in full sun or partial shade. The soil should be well-drained and free from clods, rocks, large weeds, and invasive plants that will compete for water and nutrients. Since this species reaches an average of 10 feet across at maturity, planting them 10 feet apart will work best in most scenarios.
• Pricing – Thuja occidentalis can be found between $15 and $20 for a 1 to 2-foot specimen and $45 to $55 for a 2 to 3-foot tree.


Note: Depending on the species and cultivar, arborvitae can grow as a shrub remaining under 3 feet tall or as a 70-foot tree 25 feet wide.

Green Giant Arborvitae (thuja standishii x plicata) – Also known as Thuja plicata “Green Giant,” this tall, narrow, evergreen tree can be planted for privacy or as a specimen.

• Growth and Dimensions – When planted in optimal conditions, Thuja plicata can grow as fast as 4 feet per year and reach heights of 45 to 65 feet with a spread of 12 to 20 feet at maturity.
• Hardiness Zone and Lifespan – Thuja plicata thrives in USDA hardiness zones 5 through 8 and can live from 40 to 60 years.
• Planting and Spacing – Plant this arborvitae in full sun with partial afternoon shade. Soil should be moist but well-drained. Besides being drought tolerant, this species is pest and disease-resistant. Planting these trees 5 feet apart usually works best for privacy screens.
• Pricing – Thuja plicata can be found between $15 and $30 for a 1 to 2-foot specimen and $30 to $55 for a 2 to 3-foot tree.

Note: Arborvitae’s rot-resistance and fragrant qualities make it a popular choice for roofing shingles, hope/storage chests, and some musical instruments.


Leyland cypress (Cupressus × leylandii) – This fast-growing conifer is a hybrid cross between the Monterey cypress (Cupressus macrocarpa) and nootka false cypress (Chamaecyparis nootkatensis) species. Leyland cypress wood is popular in furniture making and boatbuilding.

• Growth and Dimensions – When properly planted and cared for, Leyland cypress can grow from 1.5 to 3 feet per year and reach heights of 60 to 70 feet with a spread of 15 to 25 feet at maturity.
• Hardiness Zone and Lifespan – Cupressus × leylandii thrives in USDA hardiness zones 6 through 10 and can live from 10 to 20 years.
• Planting and Spacing – Plant Leyland cypress in full sun or partial shade. The soil should be moist, well-drained, and acidic to slightly alkaline with a pH between 5.0 and 8.0. Planting this species 4 to 6 feet apart will provide a decent privacy screen within 2 to 4 years. If you are not in a hurry, plant your cypress trees 6 to 15 feet apart.
• Pricing – Cupressus × leylandii can be found between $15 and $25 for a 1 to 2-foot specimen and $35 to $45 for a 2 to 3-foot tree.

Tip: When planting along a fence, plant your Leyland cypress trees a minimum of 5 feet from the fence; this will allow them space to grow in that direction as well.

Fast Growing Evergreen Shade Trees

The following evergreen trees are fast-growing and highly recommended for planting as year-round shade trees.

Eucalyptus Trees (Eucalyptus globulus) – This delightful, fast-growing evergreen tree is highly popular for its fast growth, year-round shade, and commanding presence when it reaches maturity.

• Growth and Dimensions – When properly planted and cared for, a eucalyptus tree can grow from 3 to 4.5 feet per year and reach heights of 150 to 180 feet with a trunk diameter of 4 to 7 feet at maturity.
• Hardiness Zone and Lifespan – Eucalyptus globulus thrives in USDA hardiness zones 8 through 11, and most species live from 200 to 250 years.
• Planting and Spacing – Plant eucalyptus trees in full sun or partial shade. The species will tolerate a wide range of soil types as long as it is well-drained with low salinity. When planting multiple eucalyptus trees, they should be spaced 30 to 40 feet apart.
• Pricing – Eucalyptus trees ready for planting can be found between $75 and $110 for a 1 to 2-foot specimen and $50 to $70 for a 2 to 3-foot tree. Depending on the species and size of the tree, these prices can fluctuate dramatically.

Note: Considered by many to be one of the most beautiful tree species planet-wide, the rainbow eucalyptus (Eucalyptus deglupta) transforms Into a rainbow as its bark sheds.

Boxwood Tree (Buxus sempervirens) – Also known as American boxwood, common boxwood, and European box, this plush, dark green species is often referred to and considered a shrub.

• Growth and Dimensions – When properly planted and cared for, boxwood trees can grow from 6 to 12 inches per year and reach heights of 15 to 20 feet with a spread of 15 to 20 feet at maturity.
• Hardiness Zone and Lifespan – Buxus sempervirens thrives in USDA hardiness zones 5 through 8 and can live from 20 to 30 years.
• Planting and Spacing – Plant boxwood trees in full sun or partial shade (in warmer climates, boxwoods will benefit from afternoon shade). The species will tolerate a wide range of soil types as long as it is well-drained.
• Pricing – Buxus sempervirens can be found between $25 and $60, depending on the species and size.

Note: Boxwoods are frequently pruned into specific shapes and commonly found in topiaries.

Hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) – This species is often referred to as eastern hemlock or Canadian hemlock and, before medical advancements, was considered valuable for its medicinal value. Today, the species is more commonly used for shade.

• Growth and Dimensions – Given optimal growing conditions, Tsuga canadensis can grow as fast as 2 feet per year and reach heights of 40 to 70 feet with a spread of 25 to 35 feet at maturity.
• Hardiness Zone and Lifespan – Tsuga canadensis thrives in USDA hardiness zones 3 through 8 and can live up to 800 years, often taking 200 to 300 years to reach maturity.
• Planting and Spacing – Plant hemlocks in partial shade for best results. The soil should be well-drained sandy or loam. This species should be planted 30 to 40 feet apart and 15 to 20 feet from structures.
• Pricing – Tsuga canadensis can be found between $80 and $140 for a 5 to 6-foot specimen and $150 to $180 for a 6 to 7-foot tree.

Note: Besides making an excellent shade tree, Eastern hemlocks also respond well to shearing, making them a dense and graceful privacy screen.

If you would like more options, see our blog post for 5 Popular Marietta Georgia Shade Trees.

Fast-Growing Evergreen Trees

Evergreen trees add an elegant touch to your landscape, often without much maintenance required to keep them healthy and vigorous. However, not all evergreen trees are created equal. Some evergreen tree species grow incredibly fast, dwarfing other tree species in a matter of one or two growing seasons, making them highly desirable when planted for privacy and shade. Evergreens are pretty resistant, but winter freezing temperatures can be problematic. Once planted, learn about Tips for Protecting Your Evergreen Trees and Shrubs this Winter to protect your investment and see to it that they become the healthy shade trees you intended.

Evergreens for Privacy and Shade

In this article, you discovered species, planting, and pricing information about fast-growing evergreens for shade and privacy.

Knowing how evergreens grow, you can make informed decisions about which species will suit your landscape better as shade trees or as privacy screening.

Not knowing which evergreens to plant for screening may lead you to plant slow-growing species, delaying the time it will take to regain your privacy.

Sources:
hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/leyland-cypress-alternatives/
arborday.org/trees/treeguide/treedetail.cfm?itemID=779
plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/thuja-green-giant/
plants.usda.gov/plantguide/pdf/cs_tsca.pdf
ag.ndsu.edu/trees/handbook/th-3-149.pdf
trees.stanford.edu/ENCYC/EUCglo.htm
web.extension.illinois.edu/treeselector/detail_plant.cfm?PlantID=279
uaex.edu/yard-garden/resource-library/plant-database/shrubs/common-boxwood.aspx

Prevent your elm tree from rapid decline and death due to disease. Knowing how to identify and treat elm tree diseases will help you keep them healthy and thriving.

72tree.com assembled the following elm tree disease information, symptoms, and what treatments can help you save them from decline and death.

Elm Tree Disease

The following are some of the more common diseases that affect elm trees (Ulmus) and the treatments used to stop them from killing the trees.

Dutch Elm Disease (DED)

This disease was introduced to the U.S. in the 1930s and has since decimated the American elm (Ulmus americana) population. All native elms and European elms are susceptible, and the disease, 90 years later, still poses a significant threat.

Dutch elm disease is caused by two closely related fungi species (Ophiostoma ulmi and Ophiostoma novo-ulmi), the latter being responsible for most of the disease’s devastation. This fungus species attacks the elm’s vascular system. The tree, in turn, tries to stop the spread of the fungus by producing tyloses (plug-like structures) that block the flow of water and nutrients, contributing to the tree’s demise.

Dutch Elm Disease Symptoms Include:

• Premature leaf drop.

• The first symptom in infected trees usually appears as a small yellow or brown wilting area of foliage referred to as “flagging,” often starting at the edge of the crown.

• Wilting rapidly spreads inward toward the trunk.

• Leaves wilt, yellow, and eventually turn brown.

• Branch death.

• Brown streaking in sapwood (revealed by removing the bark or by cutting a cross-section of the dying branch).

This disease advances very fast. Depending on the health of the tree and time of infection, Dutch elm disease can lead a healthy adult elm tree to its death in a single growing season.

Dutch Elm Disease Treatment:

• Extensive pruning of infected areas.

• Remove severely infected trees.

• Burn or bury all infected wood (kills beetle larvae).

• Sever root graphs (connections) with neighboring trees.

• Preemptively treat uninfected trees with pesticides targeting elm bark beetles.

• Sterilize all pruning and maintenance equipment and materials after contact with infected trees.
• Create bait trees by treating them with cacodylic acid, killing the tree, and luring the fungus carrying beetles (this method suppresses brood production, making the beetle more manageable).

• Apply anti-fungal sprays to areas where infected trees are or have been.

• Plant DED resistant cultivars.

Note: If Dutch elm disease is caught early enough, extensive pruning may save the tree.

Multiple DED-resistant American elms and hybrid elm species are currently available and being developed. Some disease-resistant cultivars include:

• Accolade

• Cathedral

• Discovert

• Homestead

• Jefferson

• Morton Glossy

• Morton Stalwart

• New Horizon

• Pathfinder

• Pioneer

• Prospector

• Regal

• Valley Forge

Tip: Hire an ISA certified arborist to accompany or supervise all DED treatment strategies.

Elm Yellows (Formerly Elm Phloem Necrosis)

Elm yellows is an aggressive disease affecting elm trees that is spread via root grafts or leafhoppers. Also known as elm phloem necrosis, the disease is fast-moving, has no cure, and occurs principally in the eastern United States and southern Ontario.

This disease is caused by phytoplasmas that infect the tree’s phloem (inner bark). This infection quickly kills the tree’s phloem, girdling the tree and stopping its flow of water and nutrients.

Elm Yellows Symptoms Include:

• Root debilitation (root hairs die).

• The phytoplasma infection kills the phloem (causing it to change color and take on a wintergreen-like smell.

• Inner bark tissues exhibit butterscotch or light brown discoloration, usually in streaks.

• The crown will turn yellow and droop all at once.

• Leaf drop and death of branches.

Inner bark tissue discoloration may occur in branches, twigs, and the trunk on DED infected trees, where discoloration caused by elm yellows is more commonly found in the trunk.

Elm yellows symptoms can appear any time during the summer but are most common in mid-to late-summer.

Elm Yellows Disease Treatment:

• There is no cure for this disease. Once a tree exhibits signs of elm yellows, it is highly recommended to remove and destroy the tree. Thus, eliminating inoculum sources from the area.

• Thorough root removal after felling an infected tree.

• Control or management of phloem-feeding insects like leafhoppers and spittlebugs.

• Topical application of pesticides to deter insect feeding.

• Apply anti-fungal sprays to areas where infected trees are or have been.

Plant Asian and European elm species in areas where elm yellows is present. These cultivars exhibit resistance to this disease.

Note: Elm yellows does not move into new areas as quickly as Dutch elm disease, providing a larger window for infected tree removal, preventive treatments, and containment.

Laetiporus root rot (formerly Polyporus sulfureus)

As elm trees age, the damage inflicted by butt and root rot fungi can severely compromise their structural stability. Failure eventually occurs during strong winds or severe weather, often without warning, resulting in severe property or physical damage. Root and butt rot can be caused by one of many wood-decaying fungal pathogens, but one of the more commonly occurring in elm trees is Laetiporus sulphureus.

Laetiporus Root Rot Symptoms Include:

• Canopy dieback.

• Stunted shoots.

• Undersized or pale-colored foliage.

• Premature fall color change

• Clusters of yellow to salmon to orange, shelf-like fruiting structures (conks) that turn white with age form in summer or autumn months on the trunk near the ground and fall off during the winter.

• The conk’s underside has tiny pores in which millions of spores are formed.

• New conks form in the following summer and autumn months. The bark where the fruiting structures form will be slightly depressed and often cracked.

Root and butt rot fungi damage may only be exposed when trees suffer windthrow or windsnap during strong winds or severe weather. In some cases, Root and butt rot symptoms are present but provide little to no information on the depth of decay in the roots and lower trunk.

Laetiporus Root Rot Treatment:

• Root rot, in nearly all instances, is a case for immediate tree removal. Especially when fruiting structures are present at the trunk base or on the root flare.

• Hire an ISA certified arborist to evaluate the infected tree and recommend a course of action.

Note: Tree root diseases can be best controlled by preventive measures. When planting new elm trees, select disease-resistant cultivars, only plant in well-drained soil, and avoid overwatering. Chemicals, like chloropicrin or methyl bromide, don’t cure the disease but can reduce the level of the infection. Such fumigants work best when applied in and around the base of an infected tree or in the hole left behind after tree removal.

What is Killing My Elm Trees?

In this article, you discovered information on some of the more deadly elm tree diseases, the signs they display, and how to treat or control them.

Knowing how to recognize and treat elm tree diseases can help you catch and treat a disease early enough to potentially save your tree.

Ignoring the signs of a diseased elm tree can result in catastrophic damages when that tree falls on your home or causes personal injuries.

Sources:
hyg.ipm.illinois.edu/pastpest/199804g.html
mda.state.mn.us/dutch-elm-disease
mortonarb.org/trees-plants/tree-and-plant-advice/help-diseases/dutch-elm-disease
extension.umn.edu/trees-and-shrubs/dutch-elm-disease-resistant-elm-trees
hyg.ipm.illinois.edu/pastpest/199804g.html
ag.umass.edu/landscape/fact-sheets/elm-yellows
ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74109.html

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/elm-tree-diseases-symptoms-and-treatments/

When you plant a tree in your yard, you’re investing in a life that you’ll be able to see grow tall and healthy if taken care of properly. To ensure the healthy life of a young tree, here are a couple tips to keep your tree or trees growing for a long time.

Pick the Right One
When going to pick out a tree, keep in mind where you are going to be placing it. If you are putting it in the corner of your yard for decoration, then a smaller one will do. However, if you’re looking for your tree to grow tall and eventually provide shade in your yard, then a bigger one is what you want. Keep a look out for different characteristics that will tell you if a tree is healthy or not. If you don’t know what those are, educate yourself before you go to buy one.

Properly Plant It
Much like knowing the signs of a healthy tree, learn how to properly plant the tree you want before you purchase it. Some require mulching while some require special treatment, so be sure you know your stuff before planting.

Staking
Some trees need a little help from stakes when they are planted or new. Be sure to plant your stakes in the right place before attaching them to the tree. If they are too close, you could end up damaging the tree or its roots.

Train Your Tree
When you plant your tree give it lots of attention and care. If you do, the tree will more than likely grow and become more healthy than an uncared for tree that is only cared for every couple of days and will require less regular maintenance.

Maintain Your Tree
Sometimes, you can’t help how a tree grows or how big it gets. When this happens, be sure to give it the proper maintenance. Trimming and pruning it will help keep it healthy and from becoming a huge problem for you down the road.

Big Foot Tree Service offers tree cutting services to homes throughout the Northern New Jersey area. If you need any services done for your trees, feel free to call us today at 973-885-8000!

The post How to Maintain a Healthy Tree first appeared on Big Foot Tree Service.

This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com

Trees are one of the greatest assets of a property. They provide shade, increase land value and help with drainage. Trees are a valuable investment, but one that can be susceptible to a variety of natural problems. From disease to weather, there are a large number of factors that can be devastating to a tree, and keeping an eye on these problems can prevent that tree from becoming a hazard to your home.

Arborists recommend checking your trees at least twice a year as a regular rule, as this provides regular opportunities to examine each tree and establish a baseline look to identify any issues that may arise.

Experts recommend that you keep an eye on the branches of your tree, looking for any signs of dead leaves or stalled growth. This is particularly important with any branches that may extend over or near any structures, as failures of those branches could lead to damage to your roof or property. Watch for any points where the tree splits into a V-shape or where branches may cross over and rub up against one another. These are potential failure points in the tree’s structure, and any changes noticed between inspections may be a sign that it requires intervention.

Keep a keen eye on any trees near any recent construction, as well. The root network of trees can be impacted by activity nearby that may damage the roots through digging or affecting drainage. This can place stress on the tree that may show up as damaged or bark, increased mushroom growth around the base of the tree or an influx of ant colonies, according to HouseLogic.

Storms can cause the most noticeable impact on trees. A high windstorm or thunderstorm damage can cause immediate and clear change in a tree, whether through lighting strikes or a pronounced lean or uprooting. Such damage is generally something a tree cannot recover from and should be addressed immediately to prevent becoming a greater threat to your property or any nearby trees.

For more help deciding whether a tree has a problem, suggestions on how to address any concerns, or to remove hazard trees safely, consult with a professional arborist or tree service professional.

The post When Does a Deteriorating Tree Become Dangerous to Your Property? first appeared on Big Foot Tree Service.

This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com

Though we here at Red’s Tree Service mostly deal with tree removal, we try to keep ourselves sharp on all aspects of the tree life cycle. We’re certainly thankful for this preparedness because we’re often contacted by friends and clients who all want answers to the same question: when is the best time to plant new trees in the Mid-South? 

Though it may be counter-intuitive, the best time to plant new trees in the Mid-south is actually the fall. Want to know why? Read on below!

Cooler weather means better roots

You may think that planting in warm weather is the best way to produce the largest and prettiest plant. Unfortunately, and perhaps due to the fact that most plants lack frontal lobes, plants get so immediately distracted by the warm sunlight that they grow upwards and outwards instead of downwards, meaning that they don’t develop a sufficient root system. This can lead to a severe lack of water, nutrients, and stability, and can result in a dead plant. 

When the temperature cools in the fall, most trees and shrubs enter a dormant period. This means that the plants are not producing new growth or flowers which allows them to store and save energy in the root system to be used for growth in the spring and summer. 

During a tree’s first year in the ground, the root establishment process lays the, well, roots for leaf production down the road. The longer that your tree’s roots have to establish themselves before the growth explosion that is spring, the sturdier they will be. And the sturdier and better established the roots become over the winter, the more water they can take up as the weather warms, thereby helping produce more leaves!

Other benefits of planting during fall

As fall befalls the Mid-South, the cooler weather and increased rainfall mean that your trees will need less watering and less general maintenance to be happy. They won’t mind some time by themselves to grow at their own pace and to do their own thing, and eventually will enter a sort of pseudo-hibernation as the chill of winter sets in. They’ll more or less remain in this state of reduced water requirement and growth energy until cued by the warmth of spring to burst forth in new glory!

Don’t wait too long to plant

Planting when the ground is too cold means that the roots won’t be able to penetrate the soil as well, and your tree might struggle to situate itself. In extreme cases, this can kill your tree before it has a chance to establish itself, but at the very least your tree might develop unsightly blemishes like withered limbs or leafless areas.

Other things to consider when planting new trees

It’s always wise to check your soil conditions before planting, paying special attention to how the weather has affected the soil around your desired planting area. Hard and compact soil can cause problems for root growth by making it more difficult to expand, so look for areas with loose and well-aerated soil.

Soil needs to be loose for water to drain as well, so the roots won’t drown and dirt won’t be washed away when it rains. Make sure to loosen the ground beneath and around where you plan to plant your tree; this allows the main center roots to reach down to firmly establish the tree, while the bulk of the periphery roots can reach horizontally and stay closer to surface level. 

Trust Red’s Tree Service for your tree needs!

As your tree grows into a beautiful behemoth, it might need some professional care and upkeep to help it stay in tip-top shape. Certain species of trees will require more precise timing and different approaches for proper pruning, and having an experienced arborist like ours on hand helps keep both you and your trees safe. By using a licensed tree service professional like Red’s, you’re ensuring that a correct pruning and trimming job will be done. This will create and maintain strong tree structures that will look beautiful for years to come. If you have trees you’d like us to inspect or are overdue for a pruning, get in touch with us today for a FREE estimate! 

This post first appeared on https://redstreeservice.com

Prevent the dead wood on your trees from attracting infestation and disease. Knowing which trees you can prune in the spring will help you promote their health and vigorous growth.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered information on pruning trees and shrubs in springtime, which trees to never prune in spring, and some of the diseases and insects to be aware of.

When To Prune Trees in Spring

Should I prune in early, mid, or late spring? This answer depends on when and how your tree blooms.

Consider the following species and their blooming patterns:

• Abelia (Abelia x Grandiflora) Prune in early spring. Blooms in summer.
• Apple trees (Malus Domestica) Prune in early spring. Blooms in mid to late spring.
• Apricot trees (Prunus armeniaca) Prune in early spring. Blooms in early spring.
• Azalea (Rhododendron) Prune after spring flowers fade. Blooms from early spring to late summer.
• Chaste trees (Vitex agnus-castus) Prune in early spring. Blooms from late spring until early fall.
• Cherry trees (Prunus avium) Prune in early spring or mid-summer. Blooms in mid-spring
• Chokecherry trees (Prunus virginiana) Prune in early spring. Blooms in late spring.
• Clethra or Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia) Prune in early spring. Blooms in mid-summer.
• Crabapple trees (Malus) Prune in early spring. Blooms in mid to late spring.
• Dogwood trees (Cornus florida) Prune in early spring during dormancy. Blooms in mid to late spring.
• Forsythia (Forsythia x intermedia) Prune in late spring after blooms fade. Blooms in early spring.
• Hawthorn (Crataegus) Prune in early spring. Blooms in late spring or early summer.
• Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) Prune in spring. Blooms in mid to late summer.
• Juneberry trees (Amelanchier lamarckii) Prune in early spring. Blooms in mid-spring.
• Lilac trees (Syringa reticulata) Prune immediately after spring flowers fade. Blooms in early spring.
• Magnolia trees (Magnolia grandiflora) Prune immediately after spring flowers fade. Blooms in early spring.
• Peach trees (Prunus persica) Prune in spring as buds swell. Blooms in spring.
• Pear trees (Pyrus calleryana) Prune in early spring before bud swell. Blooms anytime through mid-spring.
• Plum trees (Prunus domestica) Prune in early spring before bud swell. Blooms in early spring.
• Roses (Rosa) Prune in early spring before leafing. Blooms in spring, summer, and fall.

Maple (Acer), Walnut (Juglans), and Birch (Betula) trees tend to ooze copious amounts of sap after winter pruning. These species release less sap in early spring, making it the preferred time for pruning them.

Tip 1: Trees and shrubs flowering in mid or late summer are doing so on the current year’s growth. Promote this growth by pruning them in early spring.

Tip 2: Trees and shrubs flowering in spring are doing so on the previous year’s growth. These should be pruned only after their flowers fade. Pruning these species before blooming may significantly reduce or eliminate the season’s flowers.

The dormant season is critical in the deciduous tree life cycle, but since trees bloom and enter dormancy at different times, When Should I Prune Trees is a pertinent question that we are often asked. As indicated above, pruning prior to blooming season is a good rule of thumb, but not all trees adhere to this rule, and pruning them incorrectly can be disastrous.

Trees To Never Prune in Spring

Spring pruning for some species can result in catastrophic consequences. The following species are already highly susceptible to disease, and pruning them in spring only exacerbates their susceptibility:

• Oak trees (Quercus) susceptible to oak wilt.
• Elm trees (Ulmus) susceptible to Dutch elm disease.
• Sycamore trees (Platanus occidentalis) susceptible to anthracnose.
• Honeylocust (Gleditsia triacanthos) susceptible to stem cankers.

These and most deciduous tree species should be pruned during their dormant season (late fall through early spring).

Note: Storm and other types of damage should be immediately pruned off the tree, regardless of the season. Leaving damaged wood on any tree species will likely result in infestation or disease.

Tree Diseases and Insect Infestations

If you live in an area affected by an insect or disease epidemic, hire a professional tree service to perform any spring pruning activities on your trees. Such epidemics or outbreaks may include:

• Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) only attacks ash species.
• Dutch Elm Disease (DED) primarily affects elm species.
• Anthracnose – Shade trees such as sycamore, ash, oak, and maple are highly susceptible.
• Bark Beetles attack cedar, spruce, fir, and pine tree species.
• Ambrosia Beetles attack thin-barked, deciduous trees, including more than 100 species.

Tip: Inquire with your local university extension or an ISA certified arborist to confirm any disease or insect epidemics/outbreaks in your area. You can also inquire with your local USDA Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS) office.

Further Reading: If Anthracnose is prevalent or relevant in your region, we wrote an in-depth article on How to Identify, Treat, and Prevent Anthracnose that would be a beneficial read.

When To Prune Trees

In this article, you discovered which flowering tree species can be safely pruned in spring and which species to never cut or prune during the spring months.

Promote vigorous growth and increase your tree’s health by using timely pruning practices in spring.

Without proactive pruning, dead or diseased wood left on your tree will attract diseases and infestations lethal to them.

Sources:
hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/pruning-trees/
hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/2015/03-13/pruning.html
content.ces.ncsu.edu/granulate-asian-ambrosia-beetle-1
fs.fed.us/projects/hfi/field-guide/web/page09.php
ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7420.html

Prevent your trees from dying when they should be coming out of dormancy and thriving. Knowing how to care for your trees in the spring will keep them healthy and thriving.

72tree.com assembled the following tips to help you get your trees ready for the spring growing season.

1. Inspect Your Trees

The beginning of spring is the optimal time to inspect your trees. Your deciduous trees will sill be leafless, and your evergreens, well, should be green. During your inspection, look for the following:

• Cankers (dead sections of bark on branches or tree trunks)
• Oozing sap (trees eject sap to cover and protect wounds)
• Signs of infestation (adult beetle exit holes)
• Signs of disease (blackened and curled twigs)
• Structure (odd, crossed, or unwanted growth patterns)
• Prior pruning wounds (showing decay, fungal growth, excessive sap discharge)
• Suckers (these are offshoots from the trunk, branches, and roots that indicate stress and can be signs of a diseased tree)

Tip: Eliminate doubts and potential misdiagnoses by hiring an ISA certified arborist to check your trees, shrubs, and plants.

2. Prune Dead Wood

Winter is the best time to prune trees. However, the very beginning of spring offers you a visual indication of wood that needs to be removed. Consider the following:

• Prune out dead branches and twigs (use the “scratch test” green/moist beneath the bark – it’s alive. Brown/dry beneath the bark – prune it off.)
• Carefully prune diseased limbs or branches (look for cankers or discolored bark)
• Remove undesired growth (crossed branches and shape altering growth)
• Prune off and sprouting suckers (these anomalous growths take tremendous energy from the rest of the tree)

When your tree starts to leaf out or bloom, cease all pruning activity. The tree’s energy (stored water and nutrients) is being used for growth.

Note: Make your pruning cut 12-inches toward the trunk from where the limb’s diseased portion begins. If the disease is within 36-inches of the trunk, remove the entire limb.

Tip: Sanitize your pruning equipment (including your gloves) before and after working on a diseased tree.

Visit the link for further information and tree pruning techniques.

3. Provide Water for Your Trees

Out of everything a tree requires for healthy growth, water is the most important. Too little, and the tree will suffer hydraulic failure. Too much, and roots may become diseased, quickly killing the tree. Take the following into account:

• Soil around the tree should be well-drained (doesn’t pool up and stay)
• Soil should be consistently moist to the touch (not wet)
• Avoid all overhead watering or practices that splash water (splashing water is a primary vector for disease transmission)
• Water your tree 2 to 3 times per week
• Deep water your tree once weekly (let the water soak to a depth of 12 to 15-inches, this encourages roots to grow deep)
• Use soaker hoses or buckets to irrigate your trees (buckets with holes drilled in the bottom are great for deep waterings)

Tip: Increase watering frequency during times of drought and decrease it in unusually wet times.

4. Mulch Your Trees and Gardens

Applying organic mulch to your trees and garden helps regulate both soil temperature and moisture. Here’s how to do it right:

• Apply a 3 to 6-inch layer of mulch to the entire area within the dripline of your trees (needles, wood chips, or compost)
• Keep mulch pulled back 2 to 3-inches from the tree trunk (this avoids excess moisture and insect trouble around the root flare)
• When the mulch compresses, fluff it up and add more when needed
• Mulch your garden in the same manner

Mulch also serves as an “off-limits” zone to keep lawnmowers, wheelbarrows, and other equipment from encroaching on and damaging your trees.

Note: The drip line is the area beneath the branches, extending to the outer edge of the canopy.

Tip: Organic mulch naturally adds nutrients to your soil as it decomposes while increasing and protecting your soil’s biodiversity.

5. Fertilize Trees and Plants

You may need to feed your trees. Before doing so, you should have your soil properly tested to measure its nutrient and mineral content, as well as its pH. You can send your soil sample to a university extension lab or a professional laboratory. Your soil test results should reveal:

• Cation Exchange Capacity or CEC (measures soil’s ability to retain elements and nutrients with positive charges or “cations”)
• Base Saturation (this is the distribution of cations in the soil)
• Nutrient and mineral levels and deficiencies
• Soil pH (most trees prefer slightly acidic soil or a pH of 6.1 to 6.9)

What increases soil pH? Lime can be added to acid soils to increase soil pH. Lime not only replaces hydrogen ions while increasing soil pH, it also provides calcium and magnesium to the soil.

What decreases soil pH? Aluminum sulfate and sulfur are commonly used to acidify soil. Easily found at garden supply centers, aluminum sulfate changes soil pH instantly as the aluminum dissolves in the soil.

What do the three numbers on fertilizer labels mean? All fertilizer labels have three bold numbers. The 1st is the nitrogen (N) content, the 2nd is the phosphate (P2O5) content, and the 3rd is the potash (K2O) content.

Fertilizers come in a multitude of combinations and types. Most popular are granular, slow-release fertilizers, which should include the components your soil test identified as deficient for optimum tree growth.

Note: Fertilizing without testing may be detrimental to your trees and shrubs. Too much nitrogen, sulfur, or magnesium may stunt tree growth and disrupt the soil’s biodiversity.

Tip: If you aren’t sure about which laboratory to send your soil sample(s), ask your local ISA certified arborist to have the soil tested for you or ask a nearby nursery which one(s) they use.

6. Remove Weeds from Your Landscape

While there are dozens of chemical herbicides promising miraculous weed control results, you run the risk of causing damage to or outright killing your plants, shrubs, and trees. Consider the following removal methods:

Stop digging! – Weed seeds are practically everywhere, but only seeds at the top of soil get the right conditions to trigger germination. Digging and cultivating activities elevate buried weed seeds to the surface. Dig only when needed and immediately fill the disturbed area with plants or mulch.

Mulch – Mulch regulates soil temperature and deprives weeds of sunlight. Organic mulches can host crickets and carabid beetles, which consume weed seeds.

Deadheading – Cutting back the tops of perennial weeds reduces reseeding and forces them to use up their nutrients. No matter how you choose to deadhead your weeds, chopping them down before they seed will help you keep them from spreading.

Water your plants, not your weeds – Deprive weeds of water by placing drip or soaker hoses underneath the mulch. This method efficiently irrigates plants and leaves nearby weeds dry. Water depriving weeds can reduce weed-seed germination by up to 70 percent.

Pull them out – After rain or a deep watering, get your gloves, a kneeling pad, and a weed disposal container. Use a fishtail weeder or an old salad fork to pry up tap-root weeds, like dandelion, thistle, and dock. During dry conditions, weeds sliced off just below the soil line will die. If your weeder is too large or wide, use an old steak knife to sever their roots, then fill in any open spaces left in your mulch.

Note: Keeping your soil’s biodiversity healthy and maintaining a minimum of 3-inches of organic mulch year round will naturally deter weed growth.

7. Plant New Trees

Early spring is a great time to plant a tree. Both evergreens and deciduous trees will be coming into their growing season and have the time to “harden” new growth before the arrival of the next winter season. Observe the following:

• Determine the proper tree species by your USDA hardiness zone map
• Determine which species is the right tree in the right location
• Have the soil tested and adjusted to the species preferences
• Plant your tree
• Care for your tree

Read this beginners guide to tree planting to learn more about the process and considerations.

Spring Trees

In this article, you discovered seven pro tips to guide you through your tree preparation for the coming growing season.

With just a little knowledge about tree care and easy-to-follow tips, you can all but guarantee a healthy and robust growing season.

Ignoring the basic necessities of your trees will lead to their disease, infestation, decline, and eventual death. Allowing your trees to die in this manner invites the potential for cataclysmic property damage and personal injury when they fall.

Sources:
esf.edu/pubprog/brochure/soilph/soilph.htm
extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/watering-established-trees-and-shrubs
extension.umd.edu/hgic/topics/fertilizing-trees-and-shrubs
hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/changing-the-ph-of-your-soil/
extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/fnr/fnr-506-w.pdf

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/spring-tree-care-tips/

As usual, many people’s lawns and yards look a little worse for wear because winter is, in general, a rough season. As spring comes along, it’s time to start thinking about getting out of the house and tending to your lawn to make it look nice.

When the weather is sunny and warm, spend a day or two doing some things to get your lawn in order. For instance, rake up dead leaves and pick up sticks from the ground. This is great exercise to help you strengthen your core, by the way– or you could pay kids a couple bucks to go around and pick stuff up for you! Whether it’s you or someone you know, cleaning up the lawn involves picking up storm debris, trash, branches, and “snow mold,” which involves brown, matted-down, and “dead looking” patches on the lawn. All this stuff should be thrown out, put into trash cans, and carted off by the local trash man.

Oftentimes, plows end up pushing snow onto the lawn, leaving piles of dirt in odd places, above the ground. Therefore, take these piles and put them back into the holes from where they came. Indeed, anywhere you find uneven ground, get your shovel out, find a place with excess dirt, and use that to fill in holes/low spots on your lawn.

If you have flower beds, spring’s the right time to rake them clean and then lay down mulch in preparation for planting season.

Do some research online and talk to friends in order to find out what kind of plants/shrubs you might consider adding to the lawn this year. You’ll want to take into account the New Jersey climate, as well as things like the amount of sunlight a certain spot gets or if it’s in range of your hose for proper watering.

Should you need any trees trimmed or removed from your yard to help make it look better this time of year, contact Big Foot Tree Service today.

The post Make Your Lawn Look Nice After the Winter Season first appeared on Big Foot Tree Service.

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Trees add value to a person’s property. They provide both shade and privacy, while also looking pretty, too. If you’ve been thinking of adding some trees to your property, there are basic things to consider.

First, consider “scale.” If you have a smaller house, it wouldn’t make sense to plant a tree that will grow very tall and wide over the years because it would look out of place. Instead, try and match trees that look like they “fit” the overall look, color, shape and size of your home. Generally, you would plant smaller trees close to the house and larger trees farther out in your yard.

Next, consider if you want to be raking leaves in September and October. If you don’t, plant evergreens—the trees that look green year round and typically have pinecones instead of leaves. Pine trees have soft, long needles and help keep wind off your house, as well as protect you from having to see your neighbor’s yard. Spruce trees are also popular, with their fragrant needles and hardiness.

Also, keep in mind your climate—some trees do well in colder climates. For instance, you wouldn’t plant a palm tree in your New Jersey yard, but an oak tree would be fine. If you live in an urban location that’s prone to more pollution than a suburban or rural neighborhood, consider Norway maples, Washington hawthorns, or crabapple trees. Willow oaks go well near the street, as they grow to 50 feet tall and can form a canopy over the road if your neighbors plant them too.

Japanese maples are very attractive—they look great in a person’s front yard and have dark red leaves, which stand them out from the many other trees with green leaves. Also consider Redbud trees, with their pink/purple flowers in the spring, and overall heart-shaped leaves. Weeping cherry trees, with their pink/white flowers, grow 15 to 25 feet tall and spread wide. They’re called weeping because they have long branches heading downward that remind people of tears streaming down a person’s face.

Finally, you’ll want to consider how slow or fast a tree will grow in your yard. Hardwoods take longer than softwoods, and some trees take literally hundreds of years to grow! In general, evergreens take about 7 to 12 years to reach the size and height of what most people want and expect of their yard trees. If you’re looking for the “fastest growing trees,” consider Empress, Willow Hybrid, Lombardy Poplar, Hybrid Poplar, Weeping Willow and American Sycamore.

If you live in New Jersey, you should call Big Foot Tree Service at 973-885-8000 to discuss your yard’s potential for new trees. The crew at Big Foot Tree Service can advise you on the best trees for your property to best suit your needs.

 

The post What Are the Best Trees to Plant on Your Property? first appeared on Big Foot Tree Service.

This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com

Trees bring our homes to life with beauty and can provide a sense of security and privacy. However, if a tree is sick or damaged, it can begin to cause more harm than good! You may wonder how to know when to remove a tree, versus having it treated or trimmed. When a tree could potentially cause damage to your home or family, it’s important to seek out a trained professional to help solve the problem. Let’s take a look at a few reasons your tree should be removed!

Signs of Illness

Sick trees that are left untreated can cause extensive damage to your property, injure people, take down power lines, and so much more. That’s why it’s important to check your trees for signs of illness on a regular basis. Some signs to keep an eye out for include:

• Excessive leaf drop out of season
• Leaf discoloration
• Weak, rotting branches
• Chunks missing from the trunk
• Peeling bark (in species where this is not the norm)

In some cases, you may be in the clear and have your tree treated and cured. However, if the tree is too far gone, you should have it removed before it leads to more costly problems. A sick tree can spread the disease to surrounding trees and wreak havoc on your foliage!

Trunk Rot and Fungus Growth

If you notice fungi growing on your tree, it could be a sign of internal rotting. Mushrooms growing under your tree aren’t necessarily an issue, but when the fungus is on the trunk, you might need to take further measures, since this is a sign your tree is unhealthy. If the diseased tree is left untreated, it could get weak and develop root rot, foliar, wilt, or canker disease. Trees with these or other diseases should be removed, as they could fall and damage your home or other property. 

Invasive Roots

Trees have both vertical and horizontal roots. Horizontal roots can become destructive if they begin to grow into other features of your property. Invasive roots can cause a multitude of costly problems, including: 

• Damage to your landscape, such as gardens and other trees
• Broken pipes and sewage lines
• Damage to the foundation of your home
• Damage to sidewalks, driveways, or walking paths
• Tripping accidents

If the roots can not be cut without compromising the health of your tree, you should have the tree removed to avoid any potential damage. 

Overhanging Branches 

Trees with overhanging branches can eventually grow into power lines, which can cause major problems. Branches may also become too heavy and fall onto homes, vehicles, or, in truly awful cases, people. You should never attempt to trim branches that are touching power lines on your own. If you happen to touch the power line in the process, you could suffer an injury that might have otherwise been avoided.

Weather Damage

Storms and harsh winds can cause damage to trees, including broken or fallen branches and weakened roots. These can both cause major damage to the surrounding area. Water saturated soil can also result in the entire tree falling. In this case, it’s absolutely essential to have the tree removed to avoid further damage or potential road blockages or injury. 

Environment

The environment the tree is in will play a large role in your decision to have it removed or not. A tree growing on a ledge or near a body of water will typically have a shallow root system. If something happens to cause the land around the tree to wash away or become loose, the tree could fall. Additionally, if you are having construction done on your home that requires the removal of some trees, and leaves others exposed to more sunlight or altered conditions, those trees could die and eventually fall. It is safer to have the tree removed by a professional early on, rather than risking the possibility of additional damage and costs down the road. 

Signs of Stress

Stress isn’t limited to the human species! A tree that is struggling to survive will show signs of stress, as well. If the upper branches of your tree are starting to die, you may notice new shoots at the base. This could indicate that your tree is trying to survive. In some cases, it may be possible to save the tree, but if not, you should have the tree removed before any decay spreads and causes your tree to fall.

Do you have a tree that might need removal? Contact Red’s Tree Service!

As the Memphis area’s professional tree service, Red’s Tree Service has been serving the community for over 40 years. Our certified, trained arborist can help diagnose and treat your trees while providing expert advice on trimming and removal. We want you to have everything you need to make the most informed decision for your trees!

If you have a tree you’ve been considering having treated or removed, our family-owned business would be happy to help. Contact us today to discuss your project and let’s get it done together!

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