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Don’t let oak wilt (Bretziella fagacearum) kill your tree. While few fungi can bring down the mighty oak tree, this is one of them.

Oak wilt is one of the most destructive tree diseases in the United States, and it’s on the loose, killing oak trees at nearly epidemic proportions. If your oak tree(s) appear to be in trouble, its problems may be caused by a fungus that, if not halted, will kill your tree in a matter of months.

72tree.com gathered essential information about oak wilt disease, how to identify it, treat it, and prevent it.

What is Oak Wilt?

Bretziella fagacearum, formerly known as Ceratocytis fagacearum, is the scientific name for oak wilt, and this fungal disease affects all species of the oak (Quercus) genus by disabling the water conducting system in these trees.

Based upon porosity and leaf shape, oaks are divided into two groups; red oaks and white oaks. Bretziella fagacearum affects these two groups differently:

White Oak Group – The species below that are part of this group have rounded leaf edges and pores clogged by tyloses.

• Quercus alba (the most commonly known white oak species)
• Quercus lobata (California white oak or valley oak)
• Quercus polymorpha (Mexican white oak or Monterrey oak)
• Quercus bicolor (swamp white oak)
• Quercus arizonica (Arizona white oak)
• Quercus garryana (Oregon white oak or Garry oak)

Tyloses are outgrowths on cells of xylem vessels. Tyloses fall from the sides of the cells and seal a tree’s vascular tissue to prevent or reduce damage.

Red Oak Group – The species below that are part of this group have pointed leaf edges and large open pores:

• Quercus falcata (southern red oak)
• Quercus graciliformis (Canby oak or Chisos oak)
• Quercus buckleyi (Texas red oak)
• Quercus rubra (the northern red oak)
• Carnarvonia araliifolia (an Australian rainforest tree)

Due to the difference in porosity, species in the red oak group are more easily infected by oak wilt and die more quickly than the white oak group species. In fact, infected trees in the red oak group may die off within a single summer season, where those in the white oak group can persist for several years after being infected.

Another difference is that trees in the red oak group produce fungal spore mats that facilitate the “above ground or overland” spread of the pathogen, whereas the trees in the white oak group rarely produce them.

How to Identify Oak Wilt Disease

Oak trees infected with oak wilt present the following symptoms:

• Leaf chlorosis
• Leaf drop (off-season)
• Dieback from the top down
• Veinal necrosis (Live oak species only)

In most cases of infection, oak leaves will turn pale green and then brown while still attached to the tree. By the time they fall, the tree is likely dead.

This disease is dangerous in that it is extremely fast acting; it can kill a mature oak tree in a matter of two to four months while spreading from tree to tree via grafted roots.

Grafted roots occur when the roots of two or more compatible tree species meet and fuse together. Once roots are grafted, they gain the ability to interchange nutrients, water, and disease to each other.

If you suspect that your oak tree is infected with oak wilt, have your tree inspected by an arborist immediately.

How to Treat Oak Wilt Disease

Once Bretziella fagacearum has infected your tree, your fast action is required to halt this pathogen. There are two principle ways to treat oak wilt disease:

Fungicide Treatment – Propiconazole applications are an effective preventative measure. During the earliest stages of infection, this fungicide is injected through holes drilled in the root flare, to the tree’s water-conducting vascular system.

The success of this treatment is greatly influenced by the health of the tree and the fungicide application rate. Any time holes are drilled into a tree for this type of treatment, a professional should be hired to make sure the fungicide is applied correctly and that the holes do not become sources of further infection or infestation.

Trenching to Sever Root Connections – When a tree has been infected and fungicide treatments are no longer viable, trenching will help stop the pathogen from being transmitted from tree to tree by grafted roots.

After identifying infected trees, a trench should be dug with a trenching machine, ripper bar, rock saw, or walk-behind trencher to a depth of at least 4 feet (trenches deeper than 4 feet may be required in deeper soil), and a minimum 100 foot radius around the infected tree(s).

Healthy trees within the trench are considered high risk and should be uprooted or removed to improve the effectiveness of the barrier. Tree removal should start immediately after trenching, beginning with the trees closest to the trench, and working inward thereafter until all of the trees within the trench have been eliminated.

An oak wilt contamination can be more easily contained when treatment begins early. Trees outside the trenched area should be monitored for several years after the infected area has been treated, and in the event of further infection, the same procedure (trenching and tree removal) should be repeated while the contaminated area is still manageable.

Oak Wilt Disease Prevention

Tree disease prevention begins with tree health. However, when it comes to oak wilt disease, special care must be taken to avoid infecting otherwise healthy trees. The following will help you avoid spreading the Bretziella fagacearum pathogen to your oaks:

Tree Health – A healthy tree has defense mechanisms that help it stave off attacks from fungi and insect infestation. Whether it be exuding sap to close wounds made by insects, or compartmentalization to contain invading pathogens, the healthier your tree is, the more effective its defense will be. The following steps help you increase your tree’s vitality:

During prolonged dry seasons:

• Provide weekly deep waterings for your trees.
• Fertilize your trees before the growing season begins (February, and early March).
• Mulch your trees to avoid losing soil moisture.
• Inspect your trees frequently for wounds and weather damage (including surface roots), use tree wound dressing, wax based dressing, or latex paint to seal these wounds.

Pruning Activities – Pruning encourages new growth. However, in the case of oak trees, pruning them may provide an opportunity for Bretziella fagacearum to invade and kill your tree. Adhere to the following guidelines when pruning oak trees:

• From February through July, avoid pruning or wounding your oak tree(s). This period is when oak wilt fungal mats are most easily formed, and oak bark beetles (Scolytinae) and sap beetles (nitidulid) are most active.
• Pruning activities should take place during midwinter or extended periods of hot weather in late summer. (these are the periods which present the least threat to your oaks)
• Sterilize all pruning equipment between trees.
• Paint all pruning wounds with a tree wound dressing, wax-based dressing, or latex paint to create an immediate barrier to contaminated beetles or airborne pathogens, regardless of the time of year.
• Freshly cut stumps and wounded surface roots should be dressed immediately, as Bretziella fagacearum can be transmitted from tree to tree through grafted roots.

Diseased Tree Removal – Oak trees that are dead or dying from oak wilt disease should be removed and immediately burned or buried to prevent dissemination of the disease’s spores.

When dealing with infected trees, call on a professional tree service to handle the removal and destruction of these trees. They will also be able to assess the potential risk to surrounding trees and advise you on any further necessary preventative measures.

Firewood Awareness

– Avoid purchasing or transporting unseasoned firewood. Since fungal mats may form on unseasoned oak firewood, you could be unintentionally spreading the pathogen to uninfected areas.

Seasoned firewood has been dried for a minimum of one year and poses little to no threat of spreading the oak wilt pathogen.

Oak Tree Disease – Bretziella Fagacearum

Your mighty oak tree can become infected and die in a matter of months. The Bretziella fagacearum fungus can spread by way of insects, airborne spores, and through grafted roots. By the time you identify the problem, you may be dealing with several infected trees on a fast-track to death.

In this article, you discovered vital information about oak wilt disease, how you can identify it, what you need to do to treat it, and prevention tips.

Your slow response to this fast-acting disease can not only result in the death of your tree, but also to the spread of oak wilt to numerous trees in surrounding environments. At the first sign of trouble, call a professional to help you assess the damage and required measures for containment.

Sources:
https://tfsweb.tamu.edu/OakWiltFAQS/
http://www.inspection.gc.ca/plants/plant-pests-invasive-species/diseases/oak-wilt/fact-sheet/eng/1325629194844/1325632464641
https://www.annualreviews.org/doi/abs/10.1146/annurev.en.07.010162.001551?journalCode=ento
https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/oak_wilt_disease_1
http://www.austintexas.gov/blog/oak-wilt-101

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/oak-wilt-identification-treatment-prevention/

So you want free apples for life? It’s as simple as planting a tree, but there are some things you must know before trying to grow an apple tree in your backyard.

Growing apple trees may seem easy, and it is when you know how to acclimate them and care for them as they mature. By using simple care techniques, you’ll be harvesting homegrown apples before you know it.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered information on how to acclimate, plant, and care for apple trees until they begin to bear fruit.

Apple Trees from Seeds, Seedlings, or Saplings

If you want to grow and harvest your favorite apples, your first decisions are which species of apple and in what phase of growth to start. The following will help you decide:

Starting from Seeds – If you can create and maintain a controlled environment for seeds to sprout and flourish in, it is the longest but most engaging way to grow your apple trees.

Eating an apple and retrieving the seeds from the core may seem like a logical way to get started, but store-bought hybrid apples typically do not have viable seeds or seeds that will grow true to the species. Your best bet is to visit your local nursery or the plant and garden section of your local home improvement store for viable, fertile seeds.

Starting from Seedlings – Seedlings are a great way to start growing a tree. However, they are still fragile and require a controlled environment for the first few months of growth. Seedlings should be allowed to acclimate to their new environment for 5 to 10 days before being transplanted to a larger container.

Once seedlings “get a feel” for their new location, they tend to grow fairly rapidly. However, seedlings will require several transplants before finally moving them outside for acclimation and to their permanent location.

Starting from Saplings – This is perhaps the easiest way to grow your apple tree. Besides circumventing all of the care and precaution needed for seeds and saplings, saplings are almost ready to be planted in their permanent location.

Saplings should be acclimated to the outside environment by leaving them in partial shade for 3 to 4 hours daily, for 7 to 10 days. Once a sapling has been acclimated, it can be transplanted to its permanent outside location.

Apple Tree Needs

Before planting your apple tree in its permanent location in late winter or early spring, read toddsmariettatreeservices.com/expert-shares-5-important-tree-planting-tips/, then consider these specific apple tree requirements:

Sun Requirements – For best growth and fruiting, your apple tree should get full sunlight (this is 6 or more hours of direct summertime sunlight daily).

Spacing Requirements – Regular apple trees require 25 to 30 feet between trees; semi-dwarf apple trees need 15 to 20 feet, and the dwarf species can be spaced 10 to 15 feet apart.

Soil Requirements – Apple trees can thrive in soils ranging from medium textured clays to gravelly sands. However, the healthiest trees and best crops are found on well-drained fertile sandy soils and loams.

Apples do best in neutral to slightly acidic soil with a pH between 7.0 and 5.8. You can amend the pH level in acidic soil by incorporating lime before transplanting.

Crown rot (Phytophthora cactorum) is a common issue in poorly drained soil. Apple tree rooting is typically shallow, and wet soils tend to restrict root development. This subsequently results in poor anchorage and reduced extraction of nutrients for tree development.

Watering Requirements – Although apples contain high water content, apple trees do not need daily heavy watering. However, you should adjust your watering schedule to avoid dry soil and drought stress to your trees.

Water your trees in the early morning, or if your schedule doesn’t permit it, early evening watering will help your apple trees thrive.

Your watering schedule should increase in frequency as your apple trees begin to bear fruit, and return to normal after the harvesting period.

Pruning Requirements – Prune your apple trees in late winter, while the trees are in a state of dormancy. Remove any downward growing branches and dead or diseased branches; also remove any suckers growing from the base of the tree or within the root spread.

As pruning stimulates new growth, only emergency pruning (diseased branches, weather damage, etc.) should take place in late summer or fall. Any growth late in the season will not have time to harden in preparation for winter months dormancy and will die.

Pollination Requirements – On average, newly planted apple trees require 2 to 5 years to establish, mature, and bloom. Some species take 5 to 10 years to bloom and bear fruit. Like all fruit trees, pollination is required for apple trees to bear fruit.

Unless the species is self-fertile (Anna, Golden Dorsett, Gordon, etc.), cross-pollination is required. However, self-fertile species bear more heavy crops when cross-pollinated.

Proper pollination occurs when trees of different varieties bloom at the same time. Trees of the same variety won’t get the job done.

If you only have room for one apple tree and natural cross-pollination isn’t possible, you can purchase apple pollen from a local nursery and pollinate the tree by hand (be sure that the species are compatible for best results).

Watch this video to learn more about apple tree pollination.

Growing Apple Trees

With all the free apples after your first harvest, will you make apple pies, apple fritters, or apple sauce? By following these simple planting and care techniques, your apple trees will thrive and provide free apples for years to come.

In this article, you discovered how to acclimate your saplings, planting requirements, and care tips to give your apple trees their best chance to mature, thrive, and bear fruit.

It’s not enough to just plant an apple tree and hope it does well. For your apple tree to thrive, you must be knowledgable and pay attention to a host of easy to learn factors.

Sources:
https://www.yara.us/crop-nutrition/apple/agronomic-principles/
http://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C740&title=Home%20Garden%20Apples
https://www.allotment-garden.org/fruit/apples-growing/

The post How to Grow an Apple Tree in Marietta Georgia appeared first on http://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com.

A lot of people assume pruning and trimming are interchangeable words when it comes to trees. Interestingly, though, they are two different terms with two different meanings. For instance, they have distinct applications and functions. Meanwhile, they require different equipment– and timetables, too.

An Overview of Tree Pruning

How about pruning? It’s the term used when people are talking about trees and shrubs that need to improve their health because they’ve got parts considered infected, dead or broken. Pruning, then, cuts away these problem areas. Pruning is done to get rid of potential safety hazards and to make the trees or shrubs look more aesthetically pleasing to the eye.

An Overview of Tree Trimming

How about trimming? This term goes best with shrubs and hedges who need a cleaner look. Trimming is generally done for design purposes, getting rid of extra dense foliage which blocks sunlight and moisture from reaching the surrounding landscape.

Equipment Used When Trimming or Pruning

What kind of equipment is used by companies like Big Foot Tree Service to perform pruning and/or trimming services? Pruning involves hand sheers and loping sheers. The sheers are used to cut through stems– hand sheers for stems up to three-quarter inches in diameter and loping sheers for those one and three-quarters of an inch in diameter– to give you a general idea. For thicker branches, a pruning saw might be used. Meanwhile, trimming isn’t usually done with sheers. Instead, trimming is accomplished using electric, gas-powered or manual clippers.

When Is it Time to Prune or Trim?

As for timetables, most trees and shrubs benefit from annual pruning. Typically, dormant trees are pruned in the winter in order to facilitate springtime growth. To boost flowering capacity, have a tree or shrub pruned immediately after its blooming cycle. While pruning is an annual thing, trimming is usually done twice a year, which helps with “maintenance” of how the shrub or hedge looks. One of the best times for trimming is right after flowering season.

If you’re not that familiar with pruning and trimming, consider hiring Big Foot Tree Service to take care of your trees, plants, shrubs, and hedges. Please call 973-885-8000. Big Foot Tree Service provides free estimates for work you’d like to have done.

This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com

Even though most people prefer to do their pruning around winter time, performing tree pruning during summer does have its benefits, especially for fruit trees and trees that need damage control.  Also instead of being out in the cold trying to shape a tree most people tend to enjoy their tree pruning during the better weather months that we have in Portland, OR.

Here are 4 reasons to keep in mind during tree trimming and pruning during the summer months.  Keep in mind that each situation can be unique so feel free to talk to our Portland Arborist in order to help with their experience and tips.

Benefits of Tree Pruning During the Summer Months

1. Benefits the Growth of Fruit Trees – Fruit trees are the trees that benefit the most from Summer Pruning.  Cutting branches and leaves that aren’t needed will inherently let more sunlight to infiltrate and hit the branches that need more development.  Portland tree pruning done the right way can also benefit trees to grow bigger fruit of better quality.  As we know trees are living and breathing so less wasted resources on branches that bring no benefit means more air and light to the healthy parts of the tree. It is highly recommended to prune cherry and apricot trees during the late summer months of July and August because if trimming is done during the rainy season then it increases the chances of these types to contract diseases.  Plum, Nectarine, and Peach trees also receive benefits from summer time pruning. These tend to grow quickly and tall fast but often don’t provide the proper development of strong branches. Pruning them during the summer can increase the growth of sturdy limbs and leave you with better quality fruit.  It’s always good to speak with a Portland tree pruning specialist to help you with your specific fruit tree.
2. Get Rid of Dead Branches – Tree pruning during the summer is vital because it leaves us with the advantage of being able to remove diseased, dying, or damaged tree branches.  Keep in mind that the point of removing a damaged tree limb is to keep it from causing further damage to the rest of your tree. By getting rid of the dying limbs we increase the resources that will go towards better growth.  We also reduce the chance of the dying branch falling off and potentially causing damage to you, your family or property by anticipating controlling when it comes off by cutting it off ourselves.
3. Prevent Pest Invasion – Preventing a pest invasion would be the only benefit on its own in order to encourage someone to do summer tree pruning. We need to identify any limbs or fruit that have signs of pest bites or damage and remove them in order to protect the rest of the healthy tree.  You are also preventing pests from invading the rest of your fruit trees leaving you with quality and scrumptious fruit for you and your family to enjoy. Also it is very important to dispose of these pest invaded branches and fruits far away so that the pests aren’t free to comeback in infest your tree again, please do not compost them on your property.
4. Increased Growth –  Another benefit of pruning during the summer is that it is during a time of growth.  Our Portland Arborists recommends that the proper way to prune weak branch growth by pruning 3 inches from the end of each leafy shoot.  It’s recommended to repeat the pruning process after a few months if there is fast shoot growth occurring.

Summer Time Tree Pruning: Things to Consider

Tree Pruning during the Summer time is mostly to help give the tree a solid base and to shape it up since it’s easier to give it shape while the leaves are out as opposed to winter time pruning.  Although during the winter time it is better to do a more extensive pruning because it puts less stress on the tree. Keep in mind that if you are going to be trimming off some limbs it is best to do it during the early summer, this way it has time to heal.  If you do it too late in the season then the tree becomes at risk for water damage and with water comes a higher chance of fungi and diseases developing.

If you still have not decided if or when to prune or how much to cut or which limbs to cut you can always contact us here at R&H Tree Service. We are a professional and reputable Portland Tree Pruning Company.

This post first appeared on https://rhtreeservice.com

What if you could plant trees that take care of themselves, need little to no maintenance, and stay beautiful all year long?

Large deciduous trees can drop an overwhelming amount of leaves and leave you with hundreds of twigs, limbs, and branches to prune. By planting smaller evergreen trees, you’ll save time and energy that you can spend on other activities.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered 5 of the best low-maintenance evergreen tree species to plant in your Marietta yard.

Marietta Georgia and the USDA Hardiness Zone Map

The city of Marietta, Ga is situated in zone 7b on the USDA Hardiness Zone Map. The city boasts a wide variety of deciduous and evergreen tree species comprising its incredibly robust canopy.

The following species were selected based on their ease of care, hardiness to zone 7b, and their flexibility of use in landscaping.

American Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis)

This tall, pyramid-shaped elegant species is a common choice for windbreaks, accents for entryways, hedges, or single specimens. The American arborvitae requiring almost no care can reach heights of 20 to 30 feet with a spread of 10 to 15 feet.

Thriving in USDA Hardiness Zones 3 through 7, this species grows at a rate of 12 to 24 inches per year and adapts well to most well-drained soil types including loamy, sandy, and clay.

Leyland Cypress (Cupressus × leylandii)

This hybrid of Monterey cypress (Cupressus macrocarpa) and Alaskan cedar (Chamaecyparis nootkatensis) is a valued landscape tree as well as being one of the most sought after Christmas trees in the southeastern states. The Leyland cypress is a fast-growing pyramid shaped species that can reach heights of more than 60 feet with a spread of 15 to 25 feet.

Thriving in USDA Hardiness Zones 6 through 10, this species can grow more than 24 inches per year until reaching maturity and adapts perfectly to well-drained, moist, rich, alkaline, acidic, loamy, sandy, and clay soils.

Fully mature Leyland cypress trees typically grow a shallow root system and when planted in unsheltered conditions may topple in severe weather conditions.

Green Velvet Boxwood (Buxus ‘Green Velvet’)

This broadleaf evergreen hybrid has the hardiness of Korean boxwood with the English boxwood’s deep green foliage. Commonly used as a low hedge, border, specimen, or accent, the green velvet boxwood is a slow growing, oval or round-shaped species that reaches 4 feet in height and width at maturity. This species is common in topiaries as it can be easily sheared into any form.

Well-adapted to USDA Hardiness Zones 4 through 9, this species grows at a rate of under 12 inches per year and can thrive in a wide range of soil types but is intolerant of wet soil conditions.

The green velvet boxwood requires a location with full sun or partial shade and protection from strong wind, heavy snowfall, and winter sun.

Weeping Willow (Salix babylonica)

With ground-sweeping branches, this graceful species grows exceptionally well on landscapes with water features. The weeping willow is a fast-growing low-maintenance species requiring occasional pruning and reaching upwards of 40 feet in height and a 35-foot spread.

This iconic species thrives in USDA Hardiness Zones 6 through 8, the weeping willow is capable of growing at an annual rate of 2 feet and adapts to well-drained, moist, rich, alkaline, acidic, loamy, sandy, and clay soils.

While this species grows extremely well near water, it is drought tolerant and can be planted in most mid-sized and large landscapes.

Norway Spruce (Picea abies)

An ideal windbreaker, the Norway spruce is the fastest growing of the spruces. This species requires little to no maintenance and is capable of reaching heights of over 60 feet with a 25-foot spread at maturity.

The Norway spruce thrives in USDA Hardiness Zones 3 through 7 and can grow at an incredible rate of up to 2 feet per year. This species prefers full sun and is well-adapted to acidic, loamy, sandy, well-drained, and clay soils. With some drought tolerance, the Norway spruce can survive extended dry seasons with little to no harm.

While the Norway spruce grows in a compact pyramidal shape, it can take on an unkempt appearance as it ages.

Low-Maintenance Evergreen Trees

Spend less time maintaining your yard and more time enjoying its beauty by planting low-maintenance trees.

In this article, you discovered the growing traits and characteristics for the American arborvitae, Leyland cypress, green velvet boxwood, weeping willow, and Norway spruce species.

If you want to spend less time raking leaves, pruning trees, and managing soil pH levels, plant trees that take care of themselves and require minimal care.

Sources:
https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/
https://www.arborday.org
http://extension.uga.edu

The post 5 Best Low-Maintenance Trees for Your Marietta Yard appeared first on http://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com.

Don’t accept a dull and monochromatic yard. Trees are awakening from their winter slumber and certain species will put on a stunning show of vibrancy and color.

Located in USDA hardiness zone 7b, Alpharetta, Ga is the perfect location for some of the most beautiful flowering trees the South has to offer. If your Alpharetta or Roswell yard doesn’t have one of these trees, you are missing out.

72tree.com gathered care and technical information for flowering dogwood, eastern redbud, and Carolina silverbell blooming tree species perfect for hardiness zone 7b.

Flowering Trees in Alpharetta

The following species are well adapted to the climatic conditions found in Roswell and Alpharetta, Ga. Before choosing a location and breaking ground, read this tree planting guide 72tree.com/tree-planting-guide/

Flowering Dogwood – Cornus Florida is a beautiful tree native to northeastern America, it is hardy in Zones 5 through 9 and flourishes as far west as Texas.

Mature specimens can reach heights of 30 to 35 feet with a crown wider than it is tall. This specimen is considered to be an understory tree with a year-round appeal as it flowers in the spring, maintains attractive foliage throughout summer and fall, and even has an appealing winter appearance.

• Flowering period is April through May with flowers lasting 10 to 15 days.
• Colors include white or pink flowers in spring, bright red fruit in late summer and fall, and light green (spring) dark green (summer) or reddish-purple (fall) foliage.
• Soil should be acidic and well-drained with considerable amounts of organic material.
• Mulch regularly to maintain cool, moist soil.
• Pruning activities should occur either in early or late winter while the tree is in a state of dormancy.
• Susceptible to boring insects, leaf spot, and anthracnose.

When a flowering dogwood must have 25%, or more of its crown pruned to remove an infestation or signs of disease, a certified arborist should be called to evaluate the tree and suggest the best course of action.

Eastern Redbud – Cercis canadensis is noted for being one of the first tree species to flower in the spring. Also native to northeastern America, like the flowering dogwood, it is hardy in Zones 5 through 9 and flourishes as far west as the lower great plains and Texas.

At maturity, the Eastern Redbud reaches heights of 15 to 30 feet with a crown that spreads 25 to 30 feet in diameter. Considered an understory tree, this deciduous specimen provides an incredible show when in bloom.

• Flowering period is March through May before leaf growth. Flowers bloom over the entire crown, creating a “tree of flowers.”
• Colors include pink to reddish-purple flowers, giving way to dark green heart-shaped foliage in late spring.
• Soil should be neutral to slightly alkaline and well-drained for best-growing conditions.
• Pruning activities should occur either in early or late winter while the tree is in a state of dormancy. Pruning helps to strengthen the tree’s structure and promotes its overall health.
• Susceptible to boring insects, redbud leaffolders, grape leaffolder, Japanese weevil, verticillium wilt, Botryosphaeria canker, and leaf anthracnose.

Wildlife tends to leave the Eastern Redbud as a last resort or emergency food source. The tree is fire tolerant, and roots typically sprout after a wildfire or fire-related disturbance.

Carolina Silverbell – Halesia carolina is a flowering understory tree which flourishes in Zones 4 through 8 and is popular for its clusters of white bell-shaped flowers

This species reaches a mature height of 30 to 40 feet with its crown reaching up to 35 feet in diameter, and has a rounded or vase-shape.

• Flowering period is April through May with flowers best observed from below as they hang from pendulous stalks in clusters of 2 to 5.
• Colors include white and sometimes rose flowers in spring, green fruit in late summer turning light-brown in fall, and dark green foliage that turns yellow before falling in autumn.
• Soil should be acidic and well-drained with considerable amounts of organic material.
• This species flourishes when grown in light shade and a protected environment.
• Pruning activities should occur either in early or late winter while the tree is in a state of dormancy.
• Susceptible to tree scale when stressed. Healthy Carolina silverbells are otherwise pest-resistant.

Your Carolina silverbell should flourish with minimal seasonal maintenance. However, in the event of drought or changes in the soil pH, the tree may become stressed and appear to droop or wilt. In these cases, call a certified arborist to evaluate the tree, environment, and soil to suggest the best course of action.

After you select some flowering trees for your yard, visit 72tree.com/3-evergreen-species-alpharetta-roswell-yard/ for some perfect evergreens species, 72tree.com/5-popular-alpharetta-ga-shade-trees/ if you need to add some shade to your yard, or 72tree.com/4-shrub-species-alpharetta-georgia-yard/ for the perfect shrubs that can balance your landscape out.

Southern Blooming Trees

As you drive through the streets this spring, you can marvel at some of the most beautiful flowering trees in the South!

In this article, you discovered important information about the beautiful flowering dogwood, eastern redbud, and Carolina silverbell tree species.

Without one of these flowering trees in your yard, you are passing up the opportunity to provide curb appeal and make your yard captivating.

Sources:
https://plants.usda.gov
https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=ceca4
http://www.uky.edu/hort/Flowering-Dogwood
http://www.uky.edu/hort/Carolina-Silverbell

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/3-flowering-trees-alpharetta-roswell-yard/

Do you have a tree on your property that has seen better days? There’s a good chance that it could be decaying. What’s more, it could potentially put you and your family, your home, and your entire property in danger in the future. It can be tough to tell whether or not a tree is decaying since trees tend to decay from the inside out. Nevertheless, there are certain signs to look for that indicate potential problems. Here is how you’ll know a tree is decaying.

The appearance of a tree’s bark has changed dramatically.

One of the first things you’ll notice when a tree starts to decay is changes to its bark. The bark that used to look so healthy will suddenly have cracks and holes in it. This is a pretty clear-cut indication of decay in most cases. It’s a good idea for homeowners to inspect the bark on their trees every now and then to see what kind of condition it’s in.

A tree has a lot of dead branches on it.

Are you finding tons of dead branches scattered throughout your yard every week or two? It’s not uncommon to find one or two dead branches every now and then, but if you’re seeing them fall in your yard consistently, it’s a bad sign. The branches on trees that are decaying will often dry out and break before crashing down to earth during storms and on windy days. Look out for them in your yard.

The leaves on a tree look discolored.

During the spring, summer, and most of the fall, the leaves that grow on a tree should look healthy. If you notice discoloration on them or if they have spots on them, it could show that you have a decaying tree on your hands. It’s good to call on an expert for help to see if you need to be worried about the way your leaves look.

If you’re concerned that a tree in your yard might be decaying, Big Foot Tree Service can come out and take a look at it for you. We can also provide tree trimming and tree removal services if we find that a tree is, in fact, dying on you. Call us at 973-885-8000 today to obtain a free estimate on our services.

This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com

5. Time Of Year

Trees that are still living and do not pose an immediate risk should preferably be removed during their dormant season. This mainly applies to deciduous trees that have a seasonal cycle. The dormant season normally occurs at the end of winter just before new leaf shoots arrive in the spring.

The reason that this is the best time of year is because the tree carries less foliage and is therefore much easier to cut down, cut up and remove. In addition, it is far less messy to remove the tree at this time. The ground has also just begun to thaw at the start of spring making it soft enough to remove the roots while ensuring that it is hard enough for any surrounding trees and plants to remain stable and in place.

The ground factor means that this is also a good time to remove evergreen trees or trees that do not lose their leaves in the fall and sprout new ones in the spring.

6. The Cost

Tree fellers, an arborist and other type of tree removal expert will charge more to remove trees during the busy season which is between winter and spring. Opting to have the trees removed a little earlier, out of this peak season, can save you some of the expense of having the tree expertly removed. Earlier in the winter months is ideal if you are looking for a more cost-effective professional tree removal service.

Always keep in mind that tree removal is a hazardous process and the task is best left Portland Tree Service experts.

This post first appeared on https://rhtreeservice.com

Spring is the most beautiful season here in the Mid-South. Everywhere you look, the grass is getting greener, the landscapes are looking brighter, and baby buds are peeking out from every tree limb. While those limbs look beautiful swaying in the wind, this is actually a great time of year to talk about pruning them! While many trees grow perfectly well without pruning, adding this to your routine landscape maintenance will allow your trees to reach their full potential and increase their chances of living a long life. Aside from March showers and April flowers, spring can be one of the best times of the year to tackle any pruning you need to do.

Here at Red’s Tree Service, we have an expert team to provide tree trimming and selective pruning across Memphis and the Mid-South. To help you understand why pruning is important and when it should be done to make the most of it, we’ve put together some information for below. Keep reading to learn more!

Why pruning is important for your trees

Pruning focuses on removing dead, dying, and diseased branches, as well as branches that rub together and any branch stubs. Opening up the canopy lets more light and air filter throughout the entire tree, which allows for increased foliage and decreases the risk of disease. By pruning and trimming trees in specific ways, fruiting and flowering is encouraged. A professional can also shape plants into specific forms and help to control plant size.

While the appearance and health of a tree is often cited as the main reason for pruning, safety concerns should be considered as well. Regularly trimming the trees in your yard creates a safer environment for your family and friends. Dead branches, diseased trees, and weak limbs can all be a danger to people and property, but well-pruned trees are stronger and healthier. Branches that are too close to safety lights, electrical lines, or blocking traffic views should be pruned frequently.

Living in or around Memphis means that springtime coincides with our severe weather season. Top-heavy trees with too much foliage can break and fall over in strong storms, while falling branches can damage your house, plants, or car. This is one reason why thinning out branches and dead limb at this time of year can be beneficial.

Although you can technically prune your own trees, it’s often a pretty large job. We would encourage you to leave more established trees especially to qualified arborists and tree care professional like our team at Red’s. We have the knowledge, experience, appropriate equipment, and training to remove large branches safely and efficiently.

The best time of year to prune trees

There’s never really a bad time to remove dead, damaged, or diseased branches. However, most trees will benefit most from pruning in mid- to late winter. That’s because pruning during dormancy encourages new growth as soon as the weather begins to warm up. The lack of leaves around this time also allows you to easily identify branches and limbs requiring removal.

While pruning trees in the summer isn’t a popular option, it can sometimes be beneficial if performed with caution. You should never prune in the fall, however. Pruning trees in the fall can introduce disease, and when you have a warm autumn like we often get, new growth can be seriously damaged when the temperatures drop again.

Pruning in the spring

In general, pruning your trees in the spring can limit their bloom potential for the year. It can also leave cuts that leave trees more vulnerable to insect infestation or disease. That said, some tree pruning can safely be done in the spring! The rule of thumb is to not remove more than 10% of any tree’s branches. When it comes to spring pruning, your goal should be one of two things: pruning for safety OR minimal pruning for aesthetics.

Of course, there are exceptions to every rule! If you’ve just planted a new tree, any broken, defective, or damaged limbs should be removed. Maple, walnut, and birch trees can also safely be pruned in late spring to early summer. This timing also reduces sap bleeding, which can be messy. There are also several flowering trees that should be pruned once they’re done blooming in the spring season:

• Apricot trees
• Chokecherry trees
• Crabapple trees
• Dogwood trees
• Flowering cherry trees
• Flowering plum trees
• Juneberry trees
• Lilac trees
• Magnolia trees

Remember that in general, pruning trees in the spring can leave them more vulnerable to infestation and diseases. These trees in particular should never be pruned in the spring, summer, or early fall.

• Oak trees to reduce the chance of oak wilt (if oak wilt is in your area)
• Elm trees to reduce the chance of Dutch elm disease
• Sycamore trees to reduce the chance of anthracnose
• Honeylocust trees to reduce the chance of stem cankers

Let Red’s Tree Service give your trees extra life this spring

There are many ways to improve both the health and the shape of your trees. Pruning methods like crown thinning, crown raising, crown reduction, and crown cleaning can improve the light and air circulation a tree is getting, helping it to look better and grow stronger. We are experienced in providing tree trimming and selective pruning services to maintain the safety and integrity of your trees throughout the year!

Certain species of trees will require more precise timing and different approaches for proper pruning, and having an experienced arborist like ours on hand helps keep both you and your trees safe. By using a licensed tree service professional like Red’s, you’re ensuring that a correct pruning and trimming job will be done. This will create and maintain strong tree structures that will look beautiful for years to come. If you have trees you’d like us to inspect or are overdue for a pruning, get in touch with us today for a FREE estimate!

This post first appeared on https://redstreeservice.com

If you could make a significant contribution to the slowing of climate change and global warming, would you do it? With every tree you plant, you increase breathable air, reduce atmospheric CO2, and help the local ecosystem.

Planting a tree is the beginning of a journey with nature. The better the conditions are when planting a tree, the healthier it will be and faster it will grow.

72tree.com gathered the following hardiness zone, location, soil, watering, pruning, and care information to serve as a guide when planting a tree.

Tree Planting – Hardiness Zone

Tree species across the world have adapted to thrive in their respective environment. In the United States, the USDA has determined 11 hardiness zones by their average annual extreme low temperatures.

Before choosing a species to plant, you must first determine which hardiness zone the planting location is in. The following is the USDA’s Hardiness Zone Map.

For an interactive version of the map, visit planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/phzmweb/interactivemap.aspx

As an example, the state of Georgia spans through hardiness zones 6b through 8b, making it suitable for maples, oaks, and poplars among others. For these and other shade trees suitable to plant in Alpharetta or Roswell Ga, visit 72tree.com/5-popular-alpharetta-ga-shade-trees/

Once you have determined the hardiness zone of the planting location, it’s time to consider the planting location and select a tree species.

Tree Planting – Location

While trees are impacted largely by climate, conditions within their immediate environment are equally as important. Take the following factors into consideration when choosing which species and where to plant:

Shade Tolerance – Each tree species may react differently to the amount of sunlight it is subjected to daily. Here are the shade tolerance categories:

• Shade Tolerant
• Intermediate Shade Tolerant
• Shade Intolerant

It is important to note that shade intolerant trees like poplars, eucalyptus, aspen, and pecan trees may self-prune (drop entire branches) if subject to partial or full shade environments.

Wind Resistance – High winds and severe weather will test a tree’s foothold and its elasticity. Planting trees around the following wind-blocking features may help them survive the strongest of winds:

• Fences
• Shrubs
• Raised Garden Beds
• Hills
• Sheds
• Buildings

A tree’s resistance to severe weather is also determined by its overall health and seasonal pruning practices. Crown thinning is the perfect example of a pruning technique that allows wind to blow more freely through the crown, significantly reducing the potential for severe damage.

Understory Trees – These trees grow from 20 to 25ft tall and are shade tolerant. These trees are well suited for “plaza” settings or environments in which they are surrounded by buildings and a mostly shaded setting. In a forest, these are the trees that grow between the forest floor and the bottom of the overstory canopy.

Overstory Trees – These trees grow from 40ft and beyond. Overstory trees are shade intolerant and require wide open space to reach their maximum height potential. In a forest, these are the trees that make up the uppermost part of the canopy.

Root Growth – In nearly all tree species, some roots grow deep into the ground to stabilize the tree, and the vast majority of roots spread out around the tree within the top 2 to 3ft of soil in search of water and nutrients.

It is essential that your planting location be far enough away from sidewalks, pathways, driveways, and building foundations to avoid buckling and structural damage.

For more information on how tree roots affect surrounding structures, read 72tree.com/tree-roots-buckling-concrete-driveway/

Tree Planting – Soil

Since soil contains the organic matter and water a tree needs, it is obvious that the growth and health of your new tree depend heavily on the soil it is planted in. The following guidelines will help you prepare the soil for planting:

Soil Type – There are four basic types of soil:

• Sand – Sandy soil has difficulty retaining water and roots are often unable to establish themselves firmly.
• Silt – Silt is a granular quartz or feldspar material sized between sand and clay.
• Clay – Clay soil is the denser of the soil types, has poor drainage, and compacts very easily.
• Loam – Loam is a combination of the other three soil types and is widely considered to be the best soil for planting.

The majority of tree species flourish in well-drained silt or loam soil, while few are adapted to sand or clay soils.

Soil pH Level – Neutral soils have a pH level of 6.5 to 7.5, acidic soils have a pH level below 6.5, and basic soils have a pH level higher than 7.5.

Depending on the species of your tree, it may grow better in acidic soil like pine trees, while most hardwoods do better in slightly acidic to neutral soil.

The pH level of the soil can be lowered by mixing in sulfur, and most fertilizers, while lime or organic mulch, can be added to raise the pH level.

When planting a tree, the soil within a 4 to 5ft radius around the trunk should have its pH adjusted to meet the needs of the tree species, and the soil mixed to a loam consistency to offer the best root development environment.

Tree Planting – Watering

For the first few years of growth, newly planted trees (in well-drained soil) require a deep watering every two weeks or so. Deep watering is when you allow a slow but steady stream of water to penetrate 10in or more into the soil.

The benefit of deep watering is that roots will grow deeper into the soil, discouraging surface roots. Surface roots are easily damaged, allowing for either infection or infestation which weaken the tree’s health and could lead to its early death.

During rainy seasons, deep waterings should be spread further apart, every 3 to 4 weeks, and during dry seasons or times of drought, weekly deep waterings may be necessary.

Tree Care After Planting

After a full year of growth, it’s time to start applying routine tree care practices. In late fall, you can prune your tree to encourage spring growth, maintain its shape, or remove diseased or damaged limbs. Learn the various tree pruning techniques and their purpose so you avoid making an irreparable mistake.

Fertilizing should only occur between the beginning of spring and the beginning of summer. Fertilizing in mid or late summer will encourage new growth which will not have sufficient time to harden and will likely die in the winter months.

Set up an annual inspection with an ISA certified arborist. An arborist can give you valuable insight as to the influence your landscape has on your tree and vice-versa. He or she can also help in the early detection of disease, infestations, and other potential threats to your tree.

Tree Planting for a Better World

You can help slow the effects of climate change and global warming by planting a tree. With a world population of nearly 8 billion people, research shows that the 3 trillion trees currently occupying the planet with us just won’t be enough for human life to flourish in the coming centuries.

In this article, you discovered the USDA’s Hardiness Zone Map, tree planting guidelines for location selection, soil composition, watering frequencies, pruning, and care.

By neglecting the world’s diminishing tree population, we as a people are potentially condemning future generations to an inhospitable planet in which little – if any – life will be able to survive. When you plant and care for a tree, you are truly helping to save the planet and the future of mankind.

Sources:
http://www.americaslongleaf.org/media/2516/soil-ph-tree-suitability-in-the-south-_sref_.pdf
https://extension.psu.edu/forest-landowners-guide-to-tree-planting-success
https://csfs.colostate.edu/colorado-trees/selecting-planting-and-caring-for-trees/planting-tips/
https://forestry.usu.edu/trees-cities-towns/urban-forestry/landscape-trees-climate
https://www.extension.iastate.edu/forestry/publications/pdf_files/ctspsoilstrees.pdf

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/tree-planting-guide/