When Does a Deteriorating Tree Become Dangerous to Your Property?

Trees are one of the greatest assets of a property. They provide shade, increase land value and help with drainage. Trees are a valuable investment, but one that can be susceptible to a variety of natural problems. From disease to weather, there are a large number of factors that can be devastating to a tree, and keeping an eye on these problems can prevent that tree from becoming a hazard to your home.

Arborists recommend checking your trees at least twice a year as a regular rule, as this provides regular opportunities to examine each tree and establish a baseline look to identify any issues that may arise.

Experts recommend that you keep an eye on the branches of your tree, looking for any signs of dead leaves or stalled growth. This is particularly important with any branches that may extend over or near any structures, as failures of those branches could lead to damage to your roof or property. Watch for any points where the tree splits into a V-shape or where branches may cross over and rub up against one another. These are potential failure points in the tree’s structure, and any changes noticed between inspections may be a sign that it requires intervention.

Keep a keen eye on any trees near any recent construction, as well. The root network of trees can be impacted by activity nearby that may damage the roots through digging or affecting drainage. This can place stress on the tree that may show up as damaged or bark, increased mushroom growth around the base of the tree or an influx of ant colonies, according to HouseLogic.

Storms can cause the most noticeable impact on trees. A high windstorm or thunderstorm damage can cause immediate and clear change in a tree, whether through lighting strikes or a pronounced lean or uprooting. Such damage is generally something a tree cannot recover from and should be addressed immediately to prevent becoming a greater threat to your property or any nearby trees.

For more help deciding whether a tree has a problem, suggestions on how to address any concerns, or to remove hazard trees safely, consult with a professional arborist or tree service professional.

The post When Does a Deteriorating Tree Become Dangerous to Your Property? first appeared on Big Foot Tree Service.

This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com

Though we here at Red’s Tree Service mostly deal with tree removal, we try to keep ourselves sharp on all aspects of the tree life cycle. We’re certainly thankful for this preparedness because we’re often contacted by friends and clients who all want answers to the same question: when is the best time to plant new trees in the Mid-South? 

Though it may be counter-intuitive, the best time to plant new trees in the Mid-south is actually the fall. Want to know why? Read on below!

Cooler weather means better roots

You may think that planting in warm weather is the best way to produce the largest and prettiest plant. Unfortunately, and perhaps due to the fact that most plants lack frontal lobes, plants get so immediately distracted by the warm sunlight that they grow upwards and outwards instead of downwards, meaning that they don’t develop a sufficient root system. This can lead to a severe lack of water, nutrients, and stability, and can result in a dead plant. 

When the temperature cools in the fall, most trees and shrubs enter a dormant period. This means that the plants are not producing new growth or flowers which allows them to store and save energy in the root system to be used for growth in the spring and summer. 

During a tree’s first year in the ground, the root establishment process lays the, well, roots for leaf production down the road. The longer that your tree’s roots have to establish themselves before the growth explosion that is spring, the sturdier they will be. And the sturdier and better established the roots become over the winter, the more water they can take up as the weather warms, thereby helping produce more leaves!

Other benefits of planting during fall

As fall befalls the Mid-South, the cooler weather and increased rainfall mean that your trees will need less watering and less general maintenance to be happy. They won’t mind some time by themselves to grow at their own pace and to do their own thing, and eventually will enter a sort of pseudo-hibernation as the chill of winter sets in. They’ll more or less remain in this state of reduced water requirement and growth energy until cued by the warmth of spring to burst forth in new glory!

Don’t wait too long to plant

Planting when the ground is too cold means that the roots won’t be able to penetrate the soil as well, and your tree might struggle to situate itself. In extreme cases, this can kill your tree before it has a chance to establish itself, but at the very least your tree might develop unsightly blemishes like withered limbs or leafless areas.

Other things to consider when planting new trees

It’s always wise to check your soil conditions before planting, paying special attention to how the weather has affected the soil around your desired planting area. Hard and compact soil can cause problems for root growth by making it more difficult to expand, so look for areas with loose and well-aerated soil.

Soil needs to be loose for water to drain as well, so the roots won’t drown and dirt won’t be washed away when it rains. Make sure to loosen the ground beneath and around where you plan to plant your tree; this allows the main center roots to reach down to firmly establish the tree, while the bulk of the periphery roots can reach horizontally and stay closer to surface level. 

Trust Red’s Tree Service for your tree needs!

As your tree grows into a beautiful behemoth, it might need some professional care and upkeep to help it stay in tip-top shape. Certain species of trees will require more precise timing and different approaches for proper pruning, and having an experienced arborist like ours on hand helps keep both you and your trees safe. By using a licensed tree service professional like Red’s, you’re ensuring that a correct pruning and trimming job will be done. This will create and maintain strong tree structures that will look beautiful for years to come. If you have trees you’d like us to inspect or are overdue for a pruning, get in touch with us today for a FREE estimate! 

This post first appeared on https://redstreeservice.com

Prevent the dead wood on your trees from attracting infestation and disease. Knowing which trees you can prune in the spring will help you promote their health and vigorous growth.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered information on pruning trees and shrubs in springtime, which trees to never prune in spring, and some of the diseases and insects to be aware of.

When To Prune Trees in Spring

Should I prune in early, mid, or late spring? This answer depends on when and how your tree blooms.

Consider the following species and their blooming patterns:

• Abelia (Abelia x Grandiflora) Prune in early spring. Blooms in summer.
• Apple trees (Malus Domestica) Prune in early spring. Blooms in mid to late spring.
• Apricot trees (Prunus armeniaca) Prune in early spring. Blooms in early spring.
• Azalea (Rhododendron) Prune after spring flowers fade. Blooms from early spring to late summer.
• Chaste trees (Vitex agnus-castus) Prune in early spring. Blooms from late spring until early fall.
• Cherry trees (Prunus avium) Prune in early spring or mid-summer. Blooms in mid-spring
• Chokecherry trees (Prunus virginiana) Prune in early spring. Blooms in late spring.
• Clethra or Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia) Prune in early spring. Blooms in mid-summer.
• Crabapple trees (Malus) Prune in early spring. Blooms in mid to late spring.
• Dogwood trees (Cornus florida) Prune in early spring during dormancy. Blooms in mid to late spring.
• Forsythia (Forsythia x intermedia) Prune in late spring after blooms fade. Blooms in early spring.
• Hawthorn (Crataegus) Prune in early spring. Blooms in late spring or early summer.
• Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) Prune in spring. Blooms in mid to late summer.
• Juneberry trees (Amelanchier lamarckii) Prune in early spring. Blooms in mid-spring.
• Lilac trees (Syringa reticulata) Prune immediately after spring flowers fade. Blooms in early spring.
• Magnolia trees (Magnolia grandiflora) Prune immediately after spring flowers fade. Blooms in early spring.
• Peach trees (Prunus persica) Prune in spring as buds swell. Blooms in spring.
• Pear trees (Pyrus calleryana) Prune in early spring before bud swell. Blooms anytime through mid-spring.
• Plum trees (Prunus domestica) Prune in early spring before bud swell. Blooms in early spring.
• Roses (Rosa) Prune in early spring before leafing. Blooms in spring, summer, and fall.

Maple (Acer), Walnut (Juglans), and Birch (Betula) trees tend to ooze copious amounts of sap after winter pruning. These species release less sap in early spring, making it the preferred time for pruning them.

Tip 1: Trees and shrubs flowering in mid or late summer are doing so on the current year’s growth. Promote this growth by pruning them in early spring.

Tip 2: Trees and shrubs flowering in spring are doing so on the previous year’s growth. These should be pruned only after their flowers fade. Pruning these species before blooming may significantly reduce or eliminate the season’s flowers.

The dormant season is critical in the deciduous tree life cycle, but since trees bloom and enter dormancy at different times, When Should I Prune Trees is a pertinent question that we are often asked. As indicated above, pruning prior to blooming season is a good rule of thumb, but not all trees adhere to this rule, and pruning them incorrectly can be disastrous.

Trees To Never Prune in Spring

Spring pruning for some species can result in catastrophic consequences. The following species are already highly susceptible to disease, and pruning them in spring only exacerbates their susceptibility:

• Oak trees (Quercus) susceptible to oak wilt.
• Elm trees (Ulmus) susceptible to Dutch elm disease.
• Sycamore trees (Platanus occidentalis) susceptible to anthracnose.
• Honeylocust (Gleditsia triacanthos) susceptible to stem cankers.

These and most deciduous tree species should be pruned during their dormant season (late fall through early spring).

Note: Storm and other types of damage should be immediately pruned off the tree, regardless of the season. Leaving damaged wood on any tree species will likely result in infestation or disease.

Tree Diseases and Insect Infestations

If you live in an area affected by an insect or disease epidemic, hire a professional tree service to perform any spring pruning activities on your trees. Such epidemics or outbreaks may include:

• Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) only attacks ash species.
• Dutch Elm Disease (DED) primarily affects elm species.
• Anthracnose – Shade trees such as sycamore, ash, oak, and maple are highly susceptible.
• Bark Beetles attack cedar, spruce, fir, and pine tree species.
• Ambrosia Beetles attack thin-barked, deciduous trees, including more than 100 species.

Tip: Inquire with your local university extension or an ISA certified arborist to confirm any disease or insect epidemics/outbreaks in your area. You can also inquire with your local USDA Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS) office.

Further Reading: If Anthracnose is prevalent or relevant in your region, we wrote an in-depth article on How to Identify, Treat, and Prevent Anthracnose that would be a beneficial read.

When To Prune Trees

In this article, you discovered which flowering tree species can be safely pruned in spring and which species to never cut or prune during the spring months.

Promote vigorous growth and increase your tree’s health by using timely pruning practices in spring.

Without proactive pruning, dead or diseased wood left on your tree will attract diseases and infestations lethal to them.

Sources:
hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/pruning-trees/
hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/2015/03-13/pruning.html
content.ces.ncsu.edu/granulate-asian-ambrosia-beetle-1
fs.fed.us/projects/hfi/field-guide/web/page09.php
ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7420.html

Prevent your trees from dying when they should be coming out of dormancy and thriving. Knowing how to care for your trees in the spring will keep them healthy and thriving.

72tree.com assembled the following tips to help you get your trees ready for the spring growing season.

1. Inspect Your Trees

The beginning of spring is the optimal time to inspect your trees. Your deciduous trees will sill be leafless, and your evergreens, well, should be green. During your inspection, look for the following:

• Cankers (dead sections of bark on branches or tree trunks)
• Oozing sap (trees eject sap to cover and protect wounds)
• Signs of infestation (adult beetle exit holes)
• Signs of disease (blackened and curled twigs)
• Structure (odd, crossed, or unwanted growth patterns)
• Prior pruning wounds (showing decay, fungal growth, excessive sap discharge)
• Suckers (these are offshoots from the trunk, branches, and roots that indicate stress and can be signs of a diseased tree)

Tip: Eliminate doubts and potential misdiagnoses by hiring an ISA certified arborist to check your trees, shrubs, and plants.

2. Prune Dead Wood

Winter is the best time to prune trees. However, the very beginning of spring offers you a visual indication of wood that needs to be removed. Consider the following:

• Prune out dead branches and twigs (use the “scratch test” green/moist beneath the bark – it’s alive. Brown/dry beneath the bark – prune it off.)
• Carefully prune diseased limbs or branches (look for cankers or discolored bark)
• Remove undesired growth (crossed branches and shape altering growth)
• Prune off and sprouting suckers (these anomalous growths take tremendous energy from the rest of the tree)

When your tree starts to leaf out or bloom, cease all pruning activity. The tree’s energy (stored water and nutrients) is being used for growth.

Note: Make your pruning cut 12-inches toward the trunk from where the limb’s diseased portion begins. If the disease is within 36-inches of the trunk, remove the entire limb.

Tip: Sanitize your pruning equipment (including your gloves) before and after working on a diseased tree.

Visit the link for further information and tree pruning techniques.

3. Provide Water for Your Trees

Out of everything a tree requires for healthy growth, water is the most important. Too little, and the tree will suffer hydraulic failure. Too much, and roots may become diseased, quickly killing the tree. Take the following into account:

• Soil around the tree should be well-drained (doesn’t pool up and stay)
• Soil should be consistently moist to the touch (not wet)
• Avoid all overhead watering or practices that splash water (splashing water is a primary vector for disease transmission)
• Water your tree 2 to 3 times per week
• Deep water your tree once weekly (let the water soak to a depth of 12 to 15-inches, this encourages roots to grow deep)
• Use soaker hoses or buckets to irrigate your trees (buckets with holes drilled in the bottom are great for deep waterings)

Tip: Increase watering frequency during times of drought and decrease it in unusually wet times.

4. Mulch Your Trees and Gardens

Applying organic mulch to your trees and garden helps regulate both soil temperature and moisture. Here’s how to do it right:

• Apply a 3 to 6-inch layer of mulch to the entire area within the dripline of your trees (needles, wood chips, or compost)
• Keep mulch pulled back 2 to 3-inches from the tree trunk (this avoids excess moisture and insect trouble around the root flare)
• When the mulch compresses, fluff it up and add more when needed
• Mulch your garden in the same manner

Mulch also serves as an “off-limits” zone to keep lawnmowers, wheelbarrows, and other equipment from encroaching on and damaging your trees.

Note: The drip line is the area beneath the branches, extending to the outer edge of the canopy.

Tip: Organic mulch naturally adds nutrients to your soil as it decomposes while increasing and protecting your soil’s biodiversity.

5. Fertilize Trees and Plants

You may need to feed your trees. Before doing so, you should have your soil properly tested to measure its nutrient and mineral content, as well as its pH. You can send your soil sample to a university extension lab or a professional laboratory. Your soil test results should reveal:

• Cation Exchange Capacity or CEC (measures soil’s ability to retain elements and nutrients with positive charges or “cations”)
• Base Saturation (this is the distribution of cations in the soil)
• Nutrient and mineral levels and deficiencies
• Soil pH (most trees prefer slightly acidic soil or a pH of 6.1 to 6.9)

What increases soil pH? Lime can be added to acid soils to increase soil pH. Lime not only replaces hydrogen ions while increasing soil pH, it also provides calcium and magnesium to the soil.

What decreases soil pH? Aluminum sulfate and sulfur are commonly used to acidify soil. Easily found at garden supply centers, aluminum sulfate changes soil pH instantly as the aluminum dissolves in the soil.

What do the three numbers on fertilizer labels mean? All fertilizer labels have three bold numbers. The 1st is the nitrogen (N) content, the 2nd is the phosphate (P2O5) content, and the 3rd is the potash (K2O) content.

Fertilizers come in a multitude of combinations and types. Most popular are granular, slow-release fertilizers, which should include the components your soil test identified as deficient for optimum tree growth.

Note: Fertilizing without testing may be detrimental to your trees and shrubs. Too much nitrogen, sulfur, or magnesium may stunt tree growth and disrupt the soil’s biodiversity.

Tip: If you aren’t sure about which laboratory to send your soil sample(s), ask your local ISA certified arborist to have the soil tested for you or ask a nearby nursery which one(s) they use.

6. Remove Weeds from Your Landscape

While there are dozens of chemical herbicides promising miraculous weed control results, you run the risk of causing damage to or outright killing your plants, shrubs, and trees. Consider the following removal methods:

Stop digging! – Weed seeds are practically everywhere, but only seeds at the top of soil get the right conditions to trigger germination. Digging and cultivating activities elevate buried weed seeds to the surface. Dig only when needed and immediately fill the disturbed area with plants or mulch.

Mulch – Mulch regulates soil temperature and deprives weeds of sunlight. Organic mulches can host crickets and carabid beetles, which consume weed seeds.

Deadheading – Cutting back the tops of perennial weeds reduces reseeding and forces them to use up their nutrients. No matter how you choose to deadhead your weeds, chopping them down before they seed will help you keep them from spreading.

Water your plants, not your weeds – Deprive weeds of water by placing drip or soaker hoses underneath the mulch. This method efficiently irrigates plants and leaves nearby weeds dry. Water depriving weeds can reduce weed-seed germination by up to 70 percent.

Pull them out – After rain or a deep watering, get your gloves, a kneeling pad, and a weed disposal container. Use a fishtail weeder or an old salad fork to pry up tap-root weeds, like dandelion, thistle, and dock. During dry conditions, weeds sliced off just below the soil line will die. If your weeder is too large or wide, use an old steak knife to sever their roots, then fill in any open spaces left in your mulch.

Note: Keeping your soil’s biodiversity healthy and maintaining a minimum of 3-inches of organic mulch year round will naturally deter weed growth.

7. Plant New Trees

Early spring is a great time to plant a tree. Both evergreens and deciduous trees will be coming into their growing season and have the time to “harden” new growth before the arrival of the next winter season. Observe the following:

• Determine the proper tree species by your USDA hardiness zone map
• Determine which species is the right tree in the right location
• Have the soil tested and adjusted to the species preferences
• Plant your tree
• Care for your tree

Read this beginners guide to tree planting to learn more about the process and considerations.

Spring Trees

In this article, you discovered seven pro tips to guide you through your tree preparation for the coming growing season.

With just a little knowledge about tree care and easy-to-follow tips, you can all but guarantee a healthy and robust growing season.

Ignoring the basic necessities of your trees will lead to their disease, infestation, decline, and eventual death. Allowing your trees to die in this manner invites the potential for cataclysmic property damage and personal injury when they fall.

Sources:
esf.edu/pubprog/brochure/soilph/soilph.htm
extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/watering-established-trees-and-shrubs
extension.umd.edu/hgic/topics/fertilizing-trees-and-shrubs
hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/changing-the-ph-of-your-soil/
extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/fnr/fnr-506-w.pdf

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/spring-tree-care-tips/

As usual, many people’s lawns and yards look a little worse for wear because winter is, in general, a rough season. As spring comes along, it’s time to start thinking about getting out of the house and tending to your lawn to make it look nice.

When the weather is sunny and warm, spend a day or two doing some things to get your lawn in order. For instance, rake up dead leaves and pick up sticks from the ground. This is great exercise to help you strengthen your core, by the way– or you could pay kids a couple bucks to go around and pick stuff up for you! Whether it’s you or someone you know, cleaning up the lawn involves picking up storm debris, trash, branches, and “snow mold,” which involves brown, matted-down, and “dead looking” patches on the lawn. All this stuff should be thrown out, put into trash cans, and carted off by the local trash man.

Oftentimes, plows end up pushing snow onto the lawn, leaving piles of dirt in odd places, above the ground. Therefore, take these piles and put them back into the holes from where they came. Indeed, anywhere you find uneven ground, get your shovel out, find a place with excess dirt, and use that to fill in holes/low spots on your lawn.

If you have flower beds, spring’s the right time to rake them clean and then lay down mulch in preparation for planting season.

Do some research online and talk to friends in order to find out what kind of plants/shrubs you might consider adding to the lawn this year. You’ll want to take into account the New Jersey climate, as well as things like the amount of sunlight a certain spot gets or if it’s in range of your hose for proper watering.

Should you need any trees trimmed or removed from your yard to help make it look better this time of year, contact Big Foot Tree Service today.

The post Make Your Lawn Look Nice After the Winter Season first appeared on Big Foot Tree Service.

This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com

Trees add value to a person’s property. They provide both shade and privacy, while also looking pretty, too. If you’ve been thinking of adding some trees to your property, there are basic things to consider.

First, consider “scale.” If you have a smaller house, it wouldn’t make sense to plant a tree that will grow very tall and wide over the years because it would look out of place. Instead, try and match trees that look like they “fit” the overall look, color, shape and size of your home. Generally, you would plant smaller trees close to the house and larger trees farther out in your yard.

Next, consider if you want to be raking leaves in September and October. If you don’t, plant evergreens—the trees that look green year round and typically have pinecones instead of leaves. Pine trees have soft, long needles and help keep wind off your house, as well as protect you from having to see your neighbor’s yard. Spruce trees are also popular, with their fragrant needles and hardiness.

Also, keep in mind your climate—some trees do well in colder climates. For instance, you wouldn’t plant a palm tree in your New Jersey yard, but an oak tree would be fine. If you live in an urban location that’s prone to more pollution than a suburban or rural neighborhood, consider Norway maples, Washington hawthorns, or crabapple trees. Willow oaks go well near the street, as they grow to 50 feet tall and can form a canopy over the road if your neighbors plant them too.

Japanese maples are very attractive—they look great in a person’s front yard and have dark red leaves, which stand them out from the many other trees with green leaves. Also consider Redbud trees, with their pink/purple flowers in the spring, and overall heart-shaped leaves. Weeping cherry trees, with their pink/white flowers, grow 15 to 25 feet tall and spread wide. They’re called weeping because they have long branches heading downward that remind people of tears streaming down a person’s face.

Finally, you’ll want to consider how slow or fast a tree will grow in your yard. Hardwoods take longer than softwoods, and some trees take literally hundreds of years to grow! In general, evergreens take about 7 to 12 years to reach the size and height of what most people want and expect of their yard trees. If you’re looking for the “fastest growing trees,” consider Empress, Willow Hybrid, Lombardy Poplar, Hybrid Poplar, Weeping Willow and American Sycamore.

If you live in New Jersey, you should call Big Foot Tree Service at 973-885-8000 to discuss your yard’s potential for new trees. The crew at Big Foot Tree Service can advise you on the best trees for your property to best suit your needs.

 

The post What Are the Best Trees to Plant on Your Property? first appeared on Big Foot Tree Service.

This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com

Trees bring our homes to life with beauty and can provide a sense of security and privacy. However, if a tree is sick or damaged, it can begin to cause more harm than good! You may wonder how to know when to remove a tree, versus having it treated or trimmed. When a tree could potentially cause damage to your home or family, it’s important to seek out a trained professional to help solve the problem. Let’s take a look at a few reasons your tree should be removed!

Signs of Illness

Sick trees that are left untreated can cause extensive damage to your property, injure people, take down power lines, and so much more. That’s why it’s important to check your trees for signs of illness on a regular basis. Some signs to keep an eye out for include:

• Excessive leaf drop out of season
• Leaf discoloration
• Weak, rotting branches
• Chunks missing from the trunk
• Peeling bark (in species where this is not the norm)

In some cases, you may be in the clear and have your tree treated and cured. However, if the tree is too far gone, you should have it removed before it leads to more costly problems. A sick tree can spread the disease to surrounding trees and wreak havoc on your foliage!

Trunk Rot and Fungus Growth

If you notice fungi growing on your tree, it could be a sign of internal rotting. Mushrooms growing under your tree aren’t necessarily an issue, but when the fungus is on the trunk, you might need to take further measures, since this is a sign your tree is unhealthy. If the diseased tree is left untreated, it could get weak and develop root rot, foliar, wilt, or canker disease. Trees with these or other diseases should be removed, as they could fall and damage your home or other property. 

Invasive Roots

Trees have both vertical and horizontal roots. Horizontal roots can become destructive if they begin to grow into other features of your property. Invasive roots can cause a multitude of costly problems, including: 

• Damage to your landscape, such as gardens and other trees
• Broken pipes and sewage lines
• Damage to the foundation of your home
• Damage to sidewalks, driveways, or walking paths
• Tripping accidents

If the roots can not be cut without compromising the health of your tree, you should have the tree removed to avoid any potential damage. 

Overhanging Branches 

Trees with overhanging branches can eventually grow into power lines, which can cause major problems. Branches may also become too heavy and fall onto homes, vehicles, or, in truly awful cases, people. You should never attempt to trim branches that are touching power lines on your own. If you happen to touch the power line in the process, you could suffer an injury that might have otherwise been avoided.

Weather Damage

Storms and harsh winds can cause damage to trees, including broken or fallen branches and weakened roots. These can both cause major damage to the surrounding area. Water saturated soil can also result in the entire tree falling. In this case, it’s absolutely essential to have the tree removed to avoid further damage or potential road blockages or injury. 

Environment

The environment the tree is in will play a large role in your decision to have it removed or not. A tree growing on a ledge or near a body of water will typically have a shallow root system. If something happens to cause the land around the tree to wash away or become loose, the tree could fall. Additionally, if you are having construction done on your home that requires the removal of some trees, and leaves others exposed to more sunlight or altered conditions, those trees could die and eventually fall. It is safer to have the tree removed by a professional early on, rather than risking the possibility of additional damage and costs down the road. 

Signs of Stress

Stress isn’t limited to the human species! A tree that is struggling to survive will show signs of stress, as well. If the upper branches of your tree are starting to die, you may notice new shoots at the base. This could indicate that your tree is trying to survive. In some cases, it may be possible to save the tree, but if not, you should have the tree removed before any decay spreads and causes your tree to fall.

Do you have a tree that might need removal? Contact Red’s Tree Service!

As the Memphis area’s professional tree service, Red’s Tree Service has been serving the community for over 40 years. Our certified, trained arborist can help diagnose and treat your trees while providing expert advice on trimming and removal. We want you to have everything you need to make the most informed decision for your trees!

If you have a tree you’ve been considering having treated or removed, our family-owned business would be happy to help. Contact us today to discuss your project and let’s get it done together!

This post first appeared on https://redstreeservice.com

Avoid your trees falling or dying from a disease that can often be treated. Knowing how to identify and treat tree diseases will prevent avoidable death, and help you encourage healthy, robust tree growth.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered information on identification and treatment of anthracnose, canker diseases, and Dutch elm disease, all of which attack, weaken, and kill trees.

3 Tree Diseases

The following three tree diseases can be tricky to treat. However, once you identify a disease and know how it affects your tree, you can take immediate action to treat it. The following are three common diseases found on trees in the US and around the world:

Anthracnose Tree Disease

Anthracnose is a common fungal disease infecting shade trees. The disease causes the following symptoms:

• Bud death
• Twig death
• Leaf cupping/curling
• Dead, irregular spots on leaves
• Dead tissue along leaf veins
• Dead blotches between leaf veins
• Unseasonal or premature leaf-drop

Treat an anthracnose disease infection by:

Avoiding Spraying Tree Foliage – Anthracnose fungi depend on splashing water and wind to carry them from one host to another. If you try to wash the disease off the foliage, you contribute to the fungi’s perpetuation.

Collecting and destroying fallen leaves – Dead leaves (when left on the ground) provide an optimal location for fungi to lie dormant.

Pruning – The fungi and acervuli (fruiting structures) found in blighted twigs should be pruned back and destroyed. Crown thinning allows more air and light to reach inner branches and foliage; this helps fight against the fungi.

Note: In extreme cases of infection, excessive pruning may be required. When this is the case, contact a professional tree service to evaluate the situation.

Tip: Destroy pruned portions of the tree and its leaves in a fire pit or have a bonfire.

Tree Canker Diseases

Cankers are localized areas of bark and cambium necrosis (dead spots commonly exhibiting an open wound) on stems, twigs, branches, and/or the trunk caused by bacteria or fungi. Canker disease causes trees to display the following symptoms:

• Leaf chlorosis
• Reduced twig and smaller leaf growth
• Dead leaves remain attached to the tree
• Dead branches or limbs (dieback)
• Water sprouts growing from the trunk, large limbs, or roots
• White, decayed sapwood in the tree’s cankered areas
• Outer bark sloughing off of branches and/or trunk

Treat cankers on limbs and branches as follows:

• Carefully prune affected limbs and branches from the tree.
• Wood infected by any bacteria or fungi should be handled cautiously.
• Do not run these limbs and branches through a wood chipper.
• This wood can and should be burned.

Treat cankers on tree trunks as follows:

When cankers reach the tree trunk, there is little to nothing you can do to prevent the tree’s eventual decline and death. However, if your tree was healthy and robust when the infection occurred, it is possible that the tree compartmentalized (isolated) the infected wood on its own.

Note: Hire a professional tree service to carefully evaluate and determine a course of action for your tree.

Dutch Elm Disease

Dutch elm disease (DED), caused by a fungal pathogen (Ophiostoma novo-ulmi or Ophiostoma ulmi), is responsible for the decimation of native American elm species. This disease is most often vectored by European (Scolytus multistriatus) and North American (Hylurgopinus rufipes), and banded elm (S. schevyrewi) elm bark beetles. However, the disease may pass from tree to tree via root grafts with infected trees. Symptoms typically include:

• Leaves on one or more branches in the outer crown turn yellow, wilt, and eventually turn brown.
• Fallen leaves are noticeable in spring or summer.
• Symptoms often appear in late spring and/or early summer but may occur at any time during the tree’s growing season.
• Leaf yellowing and wilting continues down infected branches toward the tree trunk.
• How fast the signs spread down the tree depends on the tree species’ health and susceptibility. Infected trees may die in a single growing season or over multiple years.
• Brown streaking can be seen on the sapwood of wilted branches when the bark is stripped away.
• Confirm a DED infection by sending a sample of branches with leaves displaying symptoms to your University’s local extension for analysis.

Dutch elm disease can be treated when caught in very early stages by:

• Reducing the number of beetle breeding sites by promptly removing dead or dying trees.
• Immediately pruning away DED infected branches.
• Immediately removing trees with many DED infected branches.
• Burying, debarking, burning, or chipping wood from DED infected elm trees.
• Severing root grafts between neighboring elms before the infected tree is removed to prevent infection.

Tip: When considering injectable fungicides to prevent DED, hire a certified arborist to apply the injections.

Note: This disease affects native American elm species, like American (Ulmus americana), slippery (red) (Ulmus rubra), rock (Ulmus thomasii), September (Ulmus serotina), and cedar (Ulmus crassifolia) elms.

Treating Tree Diseases

In this article, you discovered essential information on how to identify and treat anthracnose, canker diseases, and Dutch elm disease before they weaken and kill your trees.

Taking swift action to help your tree and prevent its death will help you save thousands in potential physical and property damages.

Your failure to recognize a tree disease in its beginning phases can result in the swift death of your tree and infection of other surrounding trees.

Sources:
uaex.edu/environment-nature/forestry/health/disease-problems.aspx
ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/plpath-tree-04
extension.umn.edu/plant-diseases/anthracnose-trees-and-shrubs
s3.wp.wsu.edu/uploads/sites/687/2015/06/MG-Canker-and-Wilt-Diseases-3.27.15-01.pdf

Prevent losing the opportunity to repurpose your tree stump. Once you have your dying or dead tree removed, leave the stump and transform it into something special.

72tree.com gathered information on what you can do with a tree stump after having the tree removed.

Tree Stump Repurposing and Decor Ideas

When it’s time to cut down your tree, you’ll want to think ahead and determine what to do with the stump. You could have it ground down or removed by the tree service, or you could preserve and repurpose it in your yard. Consider the following:

• How tall of a stump do you want to keep?
• If you are planning to landscape or hardscape, will the stump interfere with or complement your project?

Here are ten ways to creatively repurpose your tree stump:

1 – Plant a Tree in Your Tree Stump

This may seem odd, but when your stump begins to decay in the center, you can plant a sapling or robust outdoors plant right in the stump. Simply cover the roots with nutrient-rich compost and silty soil, water two to three times per week.

This would most likely work best in a stump cut within one to two-feet of the ground. Taller stumps would work for climbing or crawling plants.

2 – Tree Stump Plant Pedestal

Showcase your favorite potted plants by placing them atop the stump. You can also use your stump as a location for your indoor plants to get some sun.

The stump height for this use would depend on your preference. The cut across the stump should be as level as possible for maximum stability.

3 – Tree Stump Statue Pedestal

One way to give your garden statue a more organic look is to use your tree stump as its pedestal. You can complement your statue with surrounding plants or climbing vines.

The stump height for this idea will depend on the statue’s weight and your ability to anchor it to the stump. The statue’s stability will also depend on a level cut across the stump.

4 – Tree Stump Backyard Art

Your tree stump can be used to display letters, trinkets, figurines, or any outdoor collectibles. You could even place some lawn chairs around the stump and serve up some tea.

The stump height for this use will depend on what you intend to display and how within reach you want it.

5 – Tree Stump Carving Art

If you’re into carving, a tree stump will offer you a “blank canvas” and a chance to show off your creative skills.

Stump height for this project depends on what you plan to carve.

6 – Tree Stump Large Shapes

In addition to carving artwork into a tree stump, you can use the whole stump to carve or cut out large objects like a giant Christmas ornament or an oversized mushroom.

Stump height for this project depends on what you plan to create.

7 – Tree Stump Chair

Depending on the stump’s location and diameter, you might benefit from transforming it into a chair.

The stump height for this idea depends on how tall you want the back of the chair to be.

8 – Tree Stump Chopping Block

Both useful and somewhat ironic, you could turn your tree stump into a chopping block, giving you a sturdy surface to split logs for a wood-burning stove or fireplace.

The ideal height for a tree stump used as a chopping block is between twelve and sixteen inches.

9 – Tall Tree Stump Caricatures

Create striking imagery when you have a life-size or larger-than-life caricature carved into your stump, overlooking your yard. If you ever move, cut the stump at ground-level and take your masterpiece with you.

Stump height for this project depends on how tall you want the caricature.

10 – Let Your Stump Decay

If you enjoy seeing the decay process and the different flora and fauna it attracts, your tree stump will be the gift that keeps on giving. You can start or accelerate the decay process by drilling wide holes deep in the stump, filling them with water, and a high-nutrient-content fertilizer.

Stump height for this is at your discretion.

Tree Stump Removal

In some cases, keeping your tree stump after tree removal may not be in your best interest. Take these scenarios, for example:

• If the tree’s roots were buckling your driveway, you may want the stump removed to guarantee root death.
• If your tree is being removed due to severe vascular diseases like oak wilt or anthracnose, keeping the stump may help spread and perpetuate the disease in nearby trees.
• If your tree suffered catastrophic damages from a boring insect infestation, stump removal may be required to prevent subsequent tree infestations.

If you decide to manually remove your tree stump, read How To Remove a Tree Stump Without a Grinder.

Giving a Tree Stump New Life

In this article, you discovered multiple ways to keep and repurpose a tree stump after the tree has been removed.

By keeping your tree stump after tree removal, you gain an opportunity to express your artistic and design-savvy by creating a useful structure or attractive showpiece.

Removing the stump after felling your tree strips you of the opportunity to create something unique with years of durability.

Sources:
ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=11441
munews.mansfield.edu/?p=757
s3.wp.wsu.edu/uploads/sites/2073/2014/03/Landscaping-with-Dead-Trees.pdf

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/what-to-do-with-a-tree-stump/

 

Winter in New Jersey tends to bring nasty storms which can literally shut down some areas for several days in a row. With that in mind, how should a person prepare for a nasty winter storm?

First of all, do you have an emergency kit in your home and/or vehicle? Things like snow shovels, blankets and wood for a fireplace or wood-burning stove come in handy when the temperatures go below freezing. In anticipation of a storm approaching, make sure you have a flashlight, battery powered radio, water, snack food, matches, and necessary medications in case the power goes out and/or you’re stuck somewhere for a long time.

Winterizing Your Home

You can winterize your home by insulating walls and attics. During a storm, let your faucets trickle to help prevent pipes from freezing. In case a pipe bursts, know where and how to shut off water valves. Keep in mind where a fire extinguisher is kept, just in case you need it. If you know of a tree close to your home that looks like it might tip over in harsh winds, don’t stay in the rooms where it could come crashing down.

While travel can be harsh during a storm, sometimes you’ll find yourself driving in the worst wintry conditions ever. Have you checked your vehicle’s antifreeze level lately? Are your brakes, battery, lights and heater in good working order? It’s better to get a vehicle repaired before a big storm than to be stuck somewhere during a storm having not taken care of problems when the weather was nice outside, you know?

Keep Safe Inside Your Home

Finally, if there’s a “Winter Weather Advisory,” that means there could be weather problems causing people inconveniences and you should use caution on area roads and such. A “Winter Storm Watch/Warning” is worse– it means heavy snow and/or ice could/will occur and you might lose power. If and when you hear of a “Blizzard Warning,” that’s your cue to stay where you are rather than risk frostbite, getting stuck in your vehicle in a white-out, and/or having to deal with considerable amounts of blowing snow for three hours or more.

After the Storm Cleanup

It’s important to know that a severe winter storm can bring some damages to your property, especially to your trees. If you have damages to your trees after a storm, Big Foot Tree Service can help you out. We can come and cleanup your yard of any storm debris, cut down dead trees, and remove dead branches. Contact Big Foot Tree Service at 973-885-8000 today or visit us online for more information!

 

The post How to Prepare for a Nasty Winter Storm first appeared on Big Foot Tree Service.

This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com