How To Protect Your Trees in Winter

Your young trees can suffer injuries and die during winter without proper protection. With some simple protective measures, you can ensure your trees come into their growing season healthy and thriving.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered information about winter tree injury, its causes, and methods you can use to treat and prevent it.

Winter Tree Injury And Protection

Winter tree injury is the damage done to trees, shrubs, and plants (evergreen and deciduous alike) during the winter months. The more severe a winter season is, the more substantial the damage can be to your trees, shrubs, and plants. The following are some of the injuries that can occur and how they can be avoided or treated:

Dried Out Evergreen Foliage – Sun, wind, and cold temperatures can cause the bleaching and drying out of evergreen foliage. The following steps can lessen the effects:

• Make sure all of your evergreen trees and shrubs are frequently watered (two times per week – one being a deep watering), right up to the time the ground begins to freeze.
• Lay a three-inch-thick layer of organic mulch over the root plate of your trees and shrubs.
• Wrap your younger trees and shrubs with burlap. Especially those exposed to southwest sun or are unsheltered from the wind.

The Weight of Snow and Ice – Even for the hardiest of trees, when storm systems drop days of sleet and snow with temperatures rising above and falling below freezing, the results can be catastrophic. Under these conditions, snow and ice accumulate on evergreen foliage and deciduous tree limbs and branches.

The weight can break branches, damage foliage, and topple a tree. This problem is tricky to handle because it is NEVER recommended to “knock off” built-up ice or snow on a tree. You could cause a severe weight imbalance, destabilizing the tree, or cause a frozen limb to snap off and come crashing down on you.

One way to combat this issue is to promote the health of your trees by:

• Practicing aggressive pruning techniques in the fall to reduce surface space
• Watering your trees frequently throughout the year and increase the frequency during times of drought
• Mulching the root plate of your trees year-round
• Having your trees inspected annually for signs of disease and insect infestation.
• Promptly treating or removing diseased or infested trees and vegetation.

When you reduce or eliminate factors that could stress your trees, you give them a better chance to survive the winter months.

Tip: Rather than risking your life to try deicing a tree, call a professional tree care service to evaluate the situation, and recommend a safe course of action.

Southwest Injury or Sunscald – Similar to how evergreen foliage is damaged in the wintertime, southwest injury occurs on young unprotected trees in the following way:

• Temperatures fall below freezing at night and freeze the outer layers of a tree’s trunk
• The trunk remains frozen or near-frozen until sunlight coming from the southwest hits it
• This light warms and thaws the exposed part of the tree trunk
• The sun sets
• The temperature falls below freezing again and refreezes the trunk

This freeze-thaw-freeze cycle ends up severely damaging the bark and inner tissues (xylem and phloem) of the tree. This damage appears as large sections of discolored, sunken, or cracked bark in the spring as the tree awakens and begins its growing season. Tree species that are highly susceptible to sunscald include:

• Birch
• Beech
• Maples
• Hickory
• Crape Myrtles
• Elms

Most trees in their youth are highly susceptible to sunscald, as they have yet to grow sufficient cork cells in their bark. Considered dead, cork cells contribute significantly to the protective qualities of a tree’s bark.

You can prevent sunscald by wrapping, painting, or covering your tree trunks in late fall or early winter. Young trees should be wrapped for the first three to four winter seasons after being planted or until they have surpassed four inches diameter at breast height.

You can find more information about southwest injury and splitting bark by reading toddsmariettatreeservices.com/tree-bark-splitting-can-i-fix-it/

Soil Heaving – Soil heaving is a severe threat to all trees, shrubs, and plants growing in your yard or landscape. More common in frigid climates, soil heaving occurs when:

• Soil freezes overnight and compresses
• Soil thaws during the day, decompressing and leaving openings in the ground
• Soil freezes and thaws over and over again, allowing more freezing air into the soil each time.

During these freezing and thawing cycles, there are two highly damaging effects taking place:

1. Freezing air is being allowed to penetrate the soil, freezing and/or killing roots
2. The expansion and contraction of the soil dislodges and “pushes up” roots.

Soil heaving can be prevented by applying a three-inch layer of organic mulch over the root plate of your trees and shrubs. The mulch will help regulate the soil temperature and moisture level.

You can find more information about mulching techniques by reading toddsmariettatreeservices.com/proper-mulching-techniques-around-trees/

Winter Drought – Winter drought occurs when little to no precipitation falls throughout the winter season. Simultaneously, soil desiccation occurs from intense sunlight, cold temperatures, and wind.

Through winter, tree roots are already working much more slowly than in other seasons. When you factor in the absence of moisture, you are left with a recipe that can kill or significantly damage the healthiest of trees.

You can fight winter drought by watering your trees and shrubs frequently throughout fall and mulching them with a three-inch layer of fresh organic mulch before winter sets in.

Tip: As long as the ground has not frozen, you can water your trees in winter.

Animal Damage – During the winter months, food becomes scarce for wildlife. Thus, some animals will resort to gnawing at the tender bark of young tree trunks, the lower limbs of trees, and in the case of deer, use their antlers to attack the trunk.

To prevent animal damage or attacks, you can erect a protective barrier around the tree, or use repellant sprays, applied to the bark, that irritate their sense of smell.

Learn more about preventing tree threats by reading toddsmariettatreeservices.com/3-tree-threat-prevention-tips/

Note: If you have volcano mulched your tree, squirrels, and other rodents may use the base of the tree as a nest, gnaw at the root flare, and potentially girdle your tree.

Winter Injury to Evergreen and Deciduous Trees

In this article, you discovered what winter tree injury is, the many ways in which it can occur, and how you can take steps to treat and prevent it.

By taking proactive measures to prevent winter injury, you are providing your trees with a better opportunity to grow and thrive during their growing seasons.

Leaving your trees exposed to the elements, you run a real risk of them developing conditions that attract disease and insect infestations that may lead to their decline and eventual death.

Sources:
extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/protecting-trees-and-shrubs-winter
americanforests.org/magazine/article/the-language-of-bark/
tcia.org/TCIA/Blog_Items/2016/Common_Winter_Tree_Care_Issues.aspx
blogs.oregonstate.edu/treetopics/2019/01/04/drought-in-winter-what-and-ways-to-adapt-to-drier-times/
purduelandscapereport.org/article/preparations-to-prevent-southwest-injury/

The post How To Protect Your Trees in Winter appeared first on http://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com.

Has a tree fallen in your landscape? If so, you should consider harvesting it for firewood.

It’s not uncommon for a single tree to yield anywhere from one-quarter cord to one full cord of firewood. Furthermore, harvesting the fallen tree for firewood means you won’t have to worry about hauling off and disposing of the tree.

With that said, you should follow these five tips to get the highest-quality firewood from the fallen tree.

#1) Choose Hardwood, Not Softwood

It’s recommended that you harvest firewood from hardwood trees and not softwood trees.

Hardwood trees, such as oak, contain less sap than softwood trees, such as pine. Therefore, they offer better firewood that produces more heat and less resin-filled smoke when burned.

#2) Split Into Halves or Quarters

After cutting the tree into equally sized logs, you should split those logs into halves or quarters.

Why is splitting necessary exactly?

Splitting does two things: First, it facilitates the drying process by allowing moisture to evaporate out of the wood more quickly. Second, it creates smaller pieces of firewood that are easier to light.

#3) Store Off the Ground

You shouldn’t burn firewood harvested from a fallen tree immediately after splitting it.

Rather, you’ll need to store it outside so that it can dry – a process known as seasoning.

Don’t just store your firewood directly on the ground outside your home, however. Instead, store it off the ground, such as on a wood deck or concrete pad, where it won’t be able to absorb moisture from the soil.

#4) Cover It

You’ll also need to cover your firewood when seasoning it.

Without any form of cover, your firewood won’t dry out. Each time it rains, the wood will absorb some of the water. A simple and effective way to protect your firewood from the elements is to cover it with a tarp.

#5) Let It Dry for at Least 6 Months

Depending on the particular tree species, as well as the moisture content, it can take fresh wood up to six months to dry.

Neglecting to wait at least six months will result in damp firewood that’s difficult to light. All the moisture inside the firewood will restrict its ability to ignite as well as burn.

So, mark your calendar to ensure that your firewood seasons outside for at least six months.

The Woodsman Company offers tree planting, tree pruning and shrub trimming, tree removal and stump grinding as well as a tree wellness program.

The post 5 Tips on How to Harvest Firewood From a Fallen Tree appeared first on Woodsman Tree Service.

With some simple steps, you can avoid significantly damaging your potted Christmas tree while it’s in your home. Likewise, by taking a few essential measures into consideration, your potted Christmas tree will thrive outside for years to come.

72tree.com assembled the following list of care and planting tips for your potted Christmas tree.

Potted Christmas Tree Selection

Responsible tree care begins with your tree selection. The following will help you get the right tree for your holiday enjoyment and avoid transporting a potential infestation or tree disease to your landscape:

• Some highly sought after species for potted Christmas trees include Fraser fir, white pine, and Norway, white and Colorado blue spruces.
• The species should be adapted to your USDA hardiness zone
• The root ball or soil in the pot should be moist
• The tree should appear sturdy with even growth
• There should be no signs of disease or infestation
• Little to no needles should fall off the tree when shaken
• Branches and needles should be pliable when run through your hand
• Look for potted trees that are kept outside (these trees should be in a state of dormancy)

If the tree is purchased from a climate-controlled nursery, avoid trees with new growth at the end of its stems. This new growth (triggered by the warmth indoors) will appear bright green. It will not have time to harden before being planted outside and exposed to winter temperatures after the holiday.

Visit 72tree.com/trees-shrubs-usda-hardiness-zone-map/ to learn more about the hardiness zones and how to determine your precise zone.

Tip: Look for trees in the 4 to 5-foot range. Since these trees still have their roots and surrounding soil, they will be much heavier than live cut trees. The taller the tree, the more roots and soil are required. Thus, the shorter the tree, the more manageable it will be during transport and planting.

How To Bring Your Potted Christmas Tree Indoors

Now that you have the perfect tree for your holiday celebration, use the following steps to acclimate the tree to come indoors:

Garage Your Tree – When you arrive home, leave your tree in the garage for two to three days. This will allow the tree to get used to warmer temperatures and avoid stressing it.

Stressed trees are highly susceptible to successful insect and disease attacks.

Digging A Hole for the Tree – While the tree is acclimating to go indoors, take some time to prepare its planting location outdoors. Take the following into consideration:

Know the species height and width at maturity. Your tree is likely capable of reaching heights of 80 to 100-feet and width of 20-feet or more. Choose a location away from power lines and at least 30-feet from any structures or paved areas in your landscape.

Now that you have a location, dig a hole 3-feet across and as deep as the root ball or pot. Keep the dug up soil in the garage (protected from freezing), fill the hole with straw, and cover it with wooden planks. This will help you avoid significant delays in case the ground freezes.

Inspect Your Tree – Once acclimated, thoroughly inspect your tree once more for signs of insect infestation before bringing it indoors.

Some of the potential insect passengers you may find include:

• Aphids
• Bark Beetles
• Scale
• Lanternflies
• Stink Bugs

Visit 72tree.com/preventing-eliminating-christmas-tree-bugs/ to read more about Christmas tree bug control and prevention.

Timing and Duration – Potted Christmas trees should be brought indoors as close to your holiday celebration as possible. Unlike cut Christmas trees, potted trees will react to the warmer temperature indoors and begin to exit dormancy.

From the time your tree is brought indoors, you have about ten days before you will need to get it back outside. While your tree is indoors, observe the following to promote its health:

• Place the tree in a location far from heat sources, including fireplaces, vents, portable heaters, stoves, etc.
• Use led lights on the tree to avoid drying it out. If conventional light strings are used, be sure to limit the time they are turned on.
• Water the tree daily with 30 to 40 ice cubes placed on the root ball or the soil in the pot.
• Help the tree remain in dormancy by putting it in a cooler room with an abundance of natural light.

Tip: If you detect any new growth or signs of sprouting at any time, remove all of the decorations and lighting. It’s time to get it outside.

How To Take Your Potted Christmas Tree Outdoors

The same way you acclimated your tree to come indoors, you will need to acclimate it to go outdoors. You can accomplish this by removing all decorations and lighting, then moving it back to the garage for two to three days.

Planting Your Christmas Tree

The following steps will help you successfully plant your acclimated tree:

• Uncover the hole you previously dug and remove the straw
• Move the saved soil back to the side of the hole
• Fill the hole with water, let the water soak into the ground, and repeat
• Move the tree to the edge of the hole and gently lay it on its side (with the top of the tree pointing away from the hole)
• Carefully remove the pot (keep the soil intact)
• If the root ball is wrapped in burlap, leave the burlap on for now
• Slide the tree towards the center of the hole, so the root ball is at the center of the hole
• Raise the tree into its position (remove the burlap now)
• Loosen the soil in the root ball and free any circling roots
• Fill in the hole making sure the root flare does not get buried
• For stability, it may be necessary to stake the tree for the first 6 months
• Water the tree and add a 3-inch layer of organic mulch around the entire base without covering any part of the trunk

For more tips and guidance on successfully planting a tree, read 72tree.com/beginners-guide-tree-planting/

Note: If the ground has frozen, there is snow accumulation, or if your tree sprouted new growth and began to bud, don’t plant it just yet. Keep it and continue caring for it in the garage until the threat of freezing temperatures has passed.

Potted Christmas Tree Care And Planting

In this article, you discovered what it takes to care for a potted Christmas tree and plant it when your holiday celebrations are over.

By properly acclimating and caring for your potted tree, you can keep it from harm’s way and enjoy its beauty for years to come.

By neglecting the needs of your potted Christmas tree, it will likely end up stressed and suffering permanent damage.

Sources:
content.ces.ncsu.edu/selection-and-care-of-living-christmas-trees
canr.msu.edu/news/living_christmas_trees_another_real_tree_option
bbg.org/news/is_a_potted_christmas_tree_a_good_idea

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/caring-planting-potted-christmas-tree/

Whether it’s a hardwood or softwood, all trees have roots. Roots are designed to collect nutrients and water from the surrounding soil while also stabilizing trees.

As a result, most trees have a subterranean root system that grows underground. There are times, however, when a tree’s roots may grow above ground.

Why Roots Grow Above Ground

A tree’s roots can grow above ground for several reasons.

Uneven terrain with a steep incline, for instance, may result in above-ground roots. If a tree is located on a steep incline, its roots may grow outwards rather than downwards.

Older trees are also more likely to grow above-ground roots than younger counterparts. As a tree ages, its feeder roots will dig into the soil, potentially pushing up its other roots.

This typically isn’t a concern with young trees. Once a tree reaches maturity, though, its old roots must push up and through the soil.

Cover the Above-Ground Roots

If you discover a tree with above-ground roots in your landscape, you should consider covering them.

Exposed roots aren’t just an eyesore; they can prove hazardous. You or a family member, for example, could trip and fall while walking in your landscape, or you could accidentally strike the above-ground roots with your lawnmower.

Regardless, a simple and effective way to prevent roots from growing above ground is to cover them.

You can cover the above-ground roots with either soil or mulch.

Of those two options, mulch is recommended because of its high level of nutrients. Mulch contains a plethora of beneficial nutrients that trees need to grow.

Using mulch, you can cover the above-ground roots in your landscape while replenishing your trees with vital nutrients in the process.

Trim the Above-Ground Roots

Alternatively, you can trim the above-ground roots.

Some people assume that trimming a tree’s roots will kill it. Assuming you don’t overdo it, though, you can safely trim above-ground roots without fear of it killing or otherwise harming the tree.

When pruning above-ground roots, follow the rule of three.

What is the rule of three exactly? Basically, it states that a tree’s roots should consume at least three times the tree’s diameter.

If a tree’s diameter is 5 feet, you shouldn’t prune its above-ground roots more than 15 feet away.

For above-ground roots that extend farther than three times the tree’s diameter, you may want to simply cover them with soil or mulch.

The Woodsman Company offers tree planting, tree pruning and shrub trimming, tree removal and stump grinding as well as a tree wellness program.

The post How to Prevent Tree Roots From Growing Above Ground appeared first on Woodsman Tree Service.

It’s frustrating when you spend long hours mowing and grooming your Texas lawn, only for weeds to emerge.

As the weeds spread across your landscape, they’ll steal moisture and nutrients from other plants. Different weeds, however, prefer different regions in which to grow.

As a Texas homeowner, you should familiarize yourself with the five following types of weeds, all of which grow in Texas.

#1) Thistle

Onopordum acanthium, or what’s more commonly known as thistle, is a flowering plant featuring spiny leaves and multi-winged stems that grows throughout Texas.

While other weeds are often kept in check by herbivores, thistle is naturally protected against animals. The weed’s spiny leaves deter herbivores, allowing thistle to rapidly spread.

#2) Chickweed

In addition to thistle, chickweed is a common weed found throughout the Lone Star State.

Also known as chickenwort and maruns, it’s an annual weed that reaches heights of just 40 cm when fully grown.

In Texas, chickweed is commonly found in residential lawns, meadows, fields and other open areas of land.

#3) Dandelion

Whether you’ve lived in Texas for one year or 50 years, you’ve probably seen dandelions growing.

Dandelions are a genus of flowering plant characterized by their distinct flowerheads and seedheads.

Dandelion flowerheads consist of bright-yellow-colored pedals that bloom outward. Dandelion seedheads, on the other hand, consist of many thin and fluffy seeds.

Regardless, dandelions in either of the two life cycle stages can quickly consume your landscape.

#4) Crabgrass

Of course, Texas isn’t without its fair share of crabgrass. Also known as finger grass and fonio, it grows in large clusters of uneven grass leaves.

One of the reasons why crabgrass is so common is because of the number of seeds it produces. Just a single crabgrass plant can produce up to 150,000 seeds each year.

With that said, you can keep crabgrass in check by properly watering and fertilizing your lawn. Although it can grow in a variety of environments, crabgrass prefers dry, poorly fertilized soil.

#5) Yellow Foxtail

Featuring long fuzz-covered stems resembling a fox’s tail, yellow foxtail is another common Texas weed.

Like thistle, it features a natural defense mechanism to protect against herbivores. The fuzz encompassing the top of foxtail is often razor-sharp, thereby deterring animals from consuming the weed as a source of food.

Yellow foxtail is frequently found in woods and areas of thick brush.

The post 5 Common Types of Weeds That Grow in Texas appeared first on Woodsman Tree Service.

Trees can be Mother Nature’s most lethal weapons. They may be disguised with ordinary leaves and branches, yet armed with deadly poison. Learn about the most dangerous ones by checking out the five top poisonous trees to avoid.

1. The Manchineel Tree

The Manchineel tree has the dubious honor of holding the Guinness World Record for World’s Most Dangerous Tree.

The Manchineel has leaves that are covered in caustic sap so poisonous that the slightest skin contact could cause an eruption of agonizing blisters.

It’s dangerous to even inhale the air around the tree. A single bite of its apple-like fruit may also cause blistering, horrific pain and even death. All parts of the Manchineel are extraordinarily poisonous.

2. Sandbox Tree

The sandbox tree is considered to be one of the world’s most lethal trees. About 130 feet tall and covered with spikes that resemble a Medieval torture device, the sandbox tree’s fruit looks like cute little pumpkins.

However, once they dry into seed capsules, they turn into dangerous grenades. The capsules detonate with a loud bang and shoot the seeds at speeds up to 150 miles per hour and distances of more than 60 feet. This shrapnel can seriously injure anyone in its path.

The sandbox tree also has sap that can trigger a searing rash and can cause blindness.

3. The Suicide Tree

The suicide tree’s highly toxic seed has been used in more suicides than any other plant in the world. The seed, which is often undetected by pathologists and coroners, has also been used in countless murders. Its taste can be easily concealed from victims with sugar or spices.

Indigenous to India and Southeast Asia, the suicide tree contains a substance called cerberin, which is astonishingly toxic at low doses and stops the heart. This is why many cerberin poisonings are often written off as heart attacks.

4. Hemlock Tree

Poison hemlock is notorious for Socrates execution in 399 BC. It was widely used in ancient Greece for murder and suicide.

Every part of the hemlock tree is poisonous. Hemlock’s toxins are so powerful that people have died after eating game birds that ingested the seeds. Hemlock’s leaves have a distinctive musty smell.

Hemlock’s stems are smooth and spotted with red and purple, and their leaves resemble fern fronds. Its clusters of small, white flowers are deceptively beautiful.

5. Gympie Gympie Tree

The Gympie Gympie tree’s cute name belies its ability to inflict excruciating pain via tiny stinging hairs. Entomologist and ecologist, Marina Hurley, of the University of New South Wales, described its sting as feeling like “being burnt with hot acid and electrocuted at the same time.”

Some people have committed suicide because the pain was unbearable. The plant is so vicious that the Chemical Defense Establishment at Porton Down was allegedly studying it for use as a military weapon.

The pain from a gympie gympie tree may reoccur for months or years after being stung.

Plants sustain all of the earth’s life forms. They are beautiful and wonderful creations. However, if you’re a tree-hugger, you might just want to reconsider. Or reach out to our qualified tree service experts.

This post first appeared on https://rhtreeservice.com

Don’t let your tree die from disease and insect infestations when its bark splits. Treating your tree quickly after its bark splits is essential to its health and vigor.

We gathered information on why tree bark splits or cracks and what you can do to prevent it or treat it.

What Causes Tree Bark Splitting

Tree bark can split or crack for many reasons, and you cannot fix it. You can protect your tree while it compartmentalizes the damage and protect others by taking preventative measures.

While it is a more common occurrence on younger trees, all trees are susceptible to bark splitting when exposed to the following:

Sunscald (Southwest Winter Injury) – In the winter months, the south and southwest sides of young trees are prone to sunscald. This condition occurs on warm winter days when the bark exposed to the sun heats up substantially and is then exposed to freezing temperatures. This super-heating, followed by super-cooling, frequently causes the death of the inner-bark.

Such injuries only become visible during the spring growing season and appear as sunken or discolored bark, which splits and may fall off in patches. This damage presents an avenue for pests and diseases to attack the tree successfully.

This condition may also occur on the trunk and branches of mature trees if they were heavily pruned in the fall.

Sunscald Treatment:

When you detect that your tree is suffering from sunscald, treatment involves letting the tree work to heal itself. Damaged areas of the bark or limbs should not be filled with a sealer or painted.

Lightly trimming the wound (tracing the injury with a sharp knife) to help the tree compartmentalize the exposed area and wrapping the damaged area with a light-colored tree wrap can help accelerate the healing process.

Sunscald Prevention:

Protecting trees from sunscald is incredibly easy and inexpensive. All available measures include keeping the trunk and lower limbs either insulated or shaded in winter. The following are some of those measures:

• Plant the tree in an area shaded by structures in the late afternoon
• Use white-colored tree wraps (white reflects sunlight and prevents bark overheating)
• Plant evergreen trees or shrubs to shade the southwest side of your trees

Frost Cracks – The conditions that cause frost cracks are similar to those that cause sunscald. This condition occurs in late winter and early spring as water contained in the phloem, xylem, wood, and inner bark expands and contracts while repeatedly freezing and thawing with fluctuating temperatures.

The resulting injury to the tree appears as a crack in the bark, potentially reaching several feet in length.

Frost Crack Treatment:

Similar to sunscald, no sealant should be used to dress the resulting wound, and a light-colored tree wrap can be used to protect the wound while the tree heals itself.

Frost Crack Prevention:

Frost cracks are often the result of previous damage to the tree or off-season growth. Use the following measures to reduce the risk of frost crack injuries:

• Protect your tree trunks and branches from injury at all times
• Fertilize in late fall or early spring (do not fertilize during summer and early fall months)
• Conduct pruning activities in late fall and winter months

Like fertilizing, pruning entices a tree to grow. Spring and summer pruning may result in growth that will not have time to properly harden for winter months and become highly susceptible to frost cracks.

Environmental Conditions (Drought) – Bark splitting can also be caused by long periods of drought, followed by exceptionally wet periods of growth.

The longer trees suffer scarce water conditions, the thirstier they will get, and the less flexible they will become. When that dry period is followed by excessively wet conditions, trees (especially young trees) will over-satiate their hydraulic systems, often resulting in “bloating.” As the tree bloats, pressure builds against the hardened inner bark and may split the bark if that pressure becomes too high.

Bark Splitting Treatment:

As this condition typically occurs during the growth cycle of a tree, protecting the resulting wounds from insect infestation and disease is essential. Recommended treatment measures are identical to those for sunscald.

Bark Splitting Prevention:

During periods of drought, the following measures will help your trees maintain their elasticity and remain hydrated:

• Apply a three to six-inch layer of organic mulch from the tree’s root flare to the edge of the canopy (this covers and regulates the moisture for the root plate)
• Provide two to three deep waterings per week (deep waterings allow water to soak ten to fifteen-inches into the soil)
• Do not prune your tree after periods of drought. Allow time for them to recover fully
• Fertilize sparingly and only in late fall to prevent untimely growth

Herbicides (Glyphosate Products) – Weed killers may be doing more than killing your weeds. Bark splitting on the south and southwest face of trees from freezing and thawing patterns may be caused by the glyphosate herbicides that you are using to combat pesky weeds.

When these herbicides are applied directly to tree bark (accidentally or purposefully), applied too frequently in the vicinity of trees, or used in overly high doses on the surrounding landscape, the glyphosate in the products deteriorates the inner bark structure while eliminating the winter hardiness of the trees (especially young trees).

How to Prevent Glyphosate Damage:

• Use a herbicide containing no adjuvant (wetting agent)
• Use correct dosages (do not overspray)
• Maintain a thirty to forty-foot no-spray zone between the weeds you spray and your trees
• Do not use herbicides to treat tree suckers (the roots will carry the herbicide to the tree)
• Reduce the use of glyphosate by integrating other methods of weed removal

All herbicides are accompanied by benefits and risks. By following the instructions on the label, you can maximize the benefits while reducing the risks.

Preventing Bark Splitting

In this article, you discovered what causes tree bark to split, what you can do to treat it, and ways to prevent the condition.

By taking preventative measures to protect your trees through winter months and from harmful chemicals, your trees can mature with higher resistance to insect infestation and disease.

When you ignore signs of bark splitting or cracking, you are leaving your tree highly vulnerable to a rapid decline in its health and potential death.

Sources:
cals.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/byg/archive/sunscald2017.html
extension.usu.edu/archive/bark-splitting-caused-by-common-herbicide
plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/barksplitting.pdf
extension.tennessee.edu/publications/Documents/SP630.pdf

The post My Tree Bark is Splitting – Can I Fix it? appeared first on http://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com.

Have you discovered water sprouts growing on one or more trees in your landscape?

With their erratic growth patterns, water sprouts aren’t particularly attractive. They tend to grow outward in a variety of directions, resulting in a messy and unkempt appearance.

To make matters worse, water sprouts are highly susceptible to disease and pests.

The thin shoots originating from a tree’s trunk attract disease-causing microbes as well as wood-devouring pests.

For an attractive and healthy landscape, you should remove the water sprouts while also taking preventative measures to keep them from reappearing.

Prune Them

The most effective way to deal with water sprouts is to prune them.

Applying an herbicide may kill water sprouts, but it comes at the cost of harming the tree in the process. By pruning water sprouts, you can safely remove them without harming the tree.

When pruning water sprouts, try to cut them as close to the tree’s trunk as possible. If you only remove three-fourths of a water sprout, the remaining one-quarter may regrow.

To prevent them from regrowing, you must prune water sprouts flush with the tree’s trunk.

Water Trees Regularly

It’s important to water your trees regularly. Otherwise, new water sprouts may emerge.

Trees often develop water sprouts in response to stress.

It’s a biological defense mechanism that’s designed to help trees survive. When a tree is severely dehydrated, for example, it may develop water sprouts in an effort to stay alive.

Therefore, you should take a proactive approach towards watering the trees in your landscape.

Avoid Over-Pruning

Trees can also develop water sprouts in response to over-pruning.

If you aggressively prune a tree’s canopy, the tree may respond by developing water sprouts.

Like dehydration, over-pruning induces stress, which may prompt trees to develop one or more water sprouts on the trunk.

You can still prune trees in your landscape, but you should use caution to minimize the amount of stress it induces. A good rule of thumb to follow is to prune no more than one-third of a tree’s branches. If you prune more than one-third of a tree’s branches, it may develop water sprouts.

Beware of Trauma

Even physical trauma can cause trees to develop water sprouts.

If a tree’s trunk is injured, its biological defense mechanism may tell it to grow water sprouts. Therefore, you should use caution when working in your landscape to protect your trees from physical trauma.

Accidentally hitting a tree’s trunk with a lawnmower or weed eater could cause it to develop water sprouts.

The Woodsman Company offers tree planting, tree pruning and shrub trimming, tree removal and stump grinding as well as a tree wellness program.

If we can help with any of your tree care needs give us a call.

The post How to Deal With Water Sprouts on Trees appeared first on Woodsman Tree Service.

Stop your maple tree from needlessly dying. If caught in time, diseases that attack maples can be treated with success.

72tree.com of Alpharetta Ga, assembled the following list of diseases that affect maple trees, how to identify, treat, and prevent them.

Why do My Maple Tree Leaves Have Spots?

One of the easiest ways to detect maple tree diseases is through irregularities in shape or size, spots, and/or blemishes on the tree’s foliage.

The following diseases may cause spots to appear on your maple tree’s foliage:

Leaf Spot (Phyllosticta minima) – This fungal infection causes round spots about a quarter of an inch in diameter to appear on leaves. These spots will have a pronounced purple border and blackish dots in the center of the spot (fungal fruiting structures).

Treatment: Before fall, prune dead twigs, stems, and branches. Collect all clippings and destroy them (burning them is highly recommended) to prevent the spread of the fungus.

Have the tree evaluated to determine the extent of the infection and whether further action like using fungicides should be taken to protect your tree and surrounding landscape.

NOTE: Sanitize all equipment, including gloves and protective clothing that come in contact with an infected tree and its foliage.

Anthracnose (Aureobasidium apocryptum or Discula – Gloeosporium) – Anthracnose is a fungal infection that causes purple or brown streaks to occur alongside and between leaf veins. In some maple species, drought and heat stress can produce similar symptoms. You can confirm an anthracnose infection by locating small, brown fungal fruiting structures near the veins of affected leaves.

Treatment: The same measures and precautions for leaf spot should be used in the treatment of anthracnose.

NOTE: Anthracnose can lead to severe defoliation during a wet spring season.

Root Rot (Fomes fomentarius, Ganoderma lucidum, or Laetiporus sulfureus) – Once a fungal infection embeds itself in the trunk or the roots of a maple tree, there are three types of symptoms to watch for:

• Foliage in the entire crown or a section of it may suffer from chlorosis, wilt, die and eventually fall. This happens as the fungi cause hydraulic failure within the roots, trunk, and branches.

• Fungal fruiting structures (mushroom conks) will appear from late spring to mid-fall. For these structures to form, there must be rotting organic material within the tree.

• Large black ants known as carpenter ants will make a nest for their colony within trees that suffer from heart rot. These ants do not burrow through heartwood, they remove the tissues rotting and softened from the infection.

Treatment: Once root rot or heart rot has been confirmed, have the tree professionally removed as quickly as possible.

NOTE: The presence of carpenter ants and fungal fruiting structures only occur after significant damage has been done to the tree. When the affected tree is within striking distance of your home, places where people congregate, or other structures and vehicles, the situation should be treated as an emergency.

Galls – These spots are irregular growths or swellings that occur from a reaction to tissue feeding or egg-laying by various species of mites and insects (commonly mistaken for fungal infection).

Galls appear in various ways. Each mite or insect species produces a distinctive gall shape and can range from wart-like bumps to felt-like patches to spindle-shaped protrusions. Galls develop in the spring, and once formed, the pest remains protected within the structure. Arborists can often identify which mite or insect has infested your tree by the shape and appearance of the galls.

Treatment: Leaf galls are relatively innocuous and rarely result in any long term damage to the tree. Applications of pesticides are relatively ineffective, as the pests are protected within the gall structure.

The most effective manner of gall removal is to handpick and destroy affected foliage before exit holes form and allow the pest(s) to move on. If the presence of galls is overwhelming, hire a professional tree service to evaluate the situation and recommend a course of action.

Maple Tree Disease Prevention

Maple tree disease prevention begins with good tree care practices. The healthier your tree is, the more vigorously it can fight back against diseases and infestations.

However, when the tree’s defenses fail, here are steps to prevent the disease or infestation from infecting surrounding trees:

• Prune affected limbs (before leaf-drop)
• Burn all pruned limbs and foliage
• Always sanitize pruning equipment after use on an infected tree
• Avoid tracking soil from around infected trees to areas around uninfected trees (many fungi and other pathogens thrive in the soil). Clean boots, protective clothing, tools, and equipment before leaving an infested area
• Replant resistant species after tree removal
• Avoid planting maple trees in areas with a history of tree diseases
• Have annual tree inspections and soil testing performed to detect any issues early on.

Black Spots on Maple Leaves

In this article, you discovered how to identify diseases that cause spots on maple tree leaves, how to treat them, and how to prevent them.

Prevent the decline of your maple tree by knowing what to do when a fungus or pathogen begins showing signs of infection.

Your choice to ignore signs that your tree is diseased or in decline can result in catastrophic fungal outbreaks to your landscape, or costly damages to your property when the tree falls.

Sources:
extension.psu.edu/maple-diseases
hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/maple-diseases-insect-pests/
pnwhandbooks.org/plantdisease/host-disease/maple-acer-spp-verticillium-wilt

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/maple-tree-diseases-symptoms-treatment-prevention/

Are you thinking of planting a tree in your yard? If yes, how can storms affect it?

Research

When buying and then planting trees it’s a good idea to do some research first. Read about different tree species to get a general idea of how much sun they need, what type of soil suits them best, and how large they’ll end up growing in the long run. Try and choose trees that are well-suited to your site and its weather conditions, year-round.

Stable Structures

Look for trees that have sound structures– you want strong trees that can stand up to storms. If they look like they won’t bend in the wind, buy them! You’ll also want to invest in trees that have a balanced overall structure– rather than, say “top heavy” ones that could easily bend, break or fall should a storm hit your yard.

Stay Away From Power Lines

If there’s one great piece of advice on planting trees, it’s this: don’t plant them near power lines! By avoiding power line areas, you’re going to save yourself trouble later on… after all, what happens when wind, sleet, rain, snow and ice whip through your neighborhood? Tree branches fall on power lines and problems ensue. If you have to plant near utility lines, try and dig the hole at least 50 feet from any lines.

Stick to a Pruning Schedule

In order to help a young tree develop a sound structure as it grows, it’s important to prune the tree during its formative years. For example, say you planted a tree in November 2019… in one year, start pruning it. Make cuts to favor a central leader. Get rid of branches reaching the trunk at acute angles. Prune every year until the tree’s too tall to reach with your feet on the ground. This helps shape the tree and make it stronger for the times storms come.

Expert Tree Advice

Finally, if and when storms wreak havoc on your yard’s trees, whether young or old, and you need some expert advice, or help removing branches/dead trees, please call Big Foot Tree Service at 973-885-8000. Big Tree serves New Jersey, including Butler, Caldwell, Fairfield, Oakland and Pompton Lakes. “We work hard to get the job done the right way the first time.”

This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com