Why You Shouldn’t Plant Trees Too Close To Your Home

Your home is a special place, and the right combination of shrubs, plants, and trees can bring that same feeling into your yard. A thoughtful landscape provides a beautiful, relaxing environment, but if you put the wrong thing in the wrong place, you could be dealing with a headache instead of a peaceful haven! As tree service professionals, Red’s Tree Service knows firsthand the benefits that trees can bring to a space. But it’s important to know the best – and worst – places to plant them. We can advise you on tree care, maintenance, and with spring right around the corner, we can also outline all the reasons you shouldn’t plant trees too close to your home. Keep reading below to learn more!

Leaves, twigs, and branches can build up

The Mid-South is no stranger to storms. With two severe weather seasons every year, homeowners are familiar with the heavy rain and wind gusts we get that can leave the yard covered in leaves, twigs, and even bigger branches. When trees are planted too close to your house, you may eventually experience an accumulation of twigs and leaves on your roof and in your gutters, which can cause roof or siding damage.

Spreading roots

Once you’ve narrowed down your top choices of trees to plan, take the time to research how big the trees are likely to get over time as well as how the roots will grow. In general, trees will grow between one to three times the width of its canopy, and in some cases, trees can develop roots that are twice as wide as the tree is high! Trees that have more aggressive roots, such as some maples, willows, and elms should be planted far away from foundations, water pipes, sidewalks, and septic lines.

If you don’t have adequate space for a tree to grow to its expected size, consider a smaller species, or create a different landscaping option that could work better for that particular area. A tree’s root system is complex, and if it is allowed to grow near a foundation or utility line, it can exert pressure and cause serious damage. If you plan to be in your home long-term, this is an especially important consideration. As a tree ages, roots will go deeper and spread further. If they push their way into the foundation of your home, it can cause cracks or otherwise compromise the integrity of the structure.

Although you don’t have to start cutting down trees if you’re worried about their root systems, this may be the appropriate course of action from time to time. Our expert team offers complete tree removal if needed, and we’re happy to provide a FREE quote for you.

Damage from fallen branches or trees

Having a mature tree too close to your home carries with it a number of hazardous outcomes. Wind, snow, or ice can send large branches through a window or onto your roof. Even more dangerous is the chance of a tree near your home being toppled, which has the potential to be both destructive and deadly. Some trees are also prone to weak wood, which attracts insects and increases the chance of a tree becoming ill or dying. In turn, this poses a greater risk of falling.

Soil moisture levels

Trees cause the moisture in soil to fluctuate because of the water levels that are required to keep a tree alive. This can cause significant problems if a tree is too close to your home, because as the soil contracts and expands, it puts pressure on the foundation and can eventually cause cracks or shifting.

Settling concrete

As concrete settles, it becomes more likely to crack and shift. A large root system can worsen an already impacted sidewalk or cement foundation. If significant shifting occurs, whether naturally, due to tree roots, or a combination of the two, it can cause destabilization and reduce the integrity of the home or sidewalk.

Choose Red’s Tree Service for all your Memphis tree needs

What if you have established trees on your property already? We offer far more than advice on where to plant new trees! From assessment to removal, we have many years of experience and are confident that we can meet the need of each customer we work with. Among these services we offer are:

Tree risk assessment

Having our team of professionals carry out a tree health and risk assessment gives us the chance to spot potential weaknesses before they have the chance to become major problems. Preventive tree care can end up saving you thousands of dollars in potential damage.

Preventative maintenance

This involves trimming, pruning and fertilizing the trees and shrubs on your property. We also clean out and remove dead wood from trees. This results in trees that not only look beautiful, but have the best chance for a long, healthy life.

Stump and root removal

Whether you had a tree break off or fall close to the ground, or have had a tree cut down, we can cover the stump and root removal. While some customers require the entire root ball and tree roots to be ground out, most just want the tree stump low enough to cover with sod or topsoil so grass can fill it in.

Deep-root fertilization

Through this process, we are able to add vital nutrients back into the soil for tree absorption, promoting vigor and health, and aiding trees that may be under stress.

When it comes to making the right decision for your home, property, and trees, Red’s Tree Service is happy to provide our expertise and insight! We are family-owned and locally operated, and have been providing quality tree services to Memphis and the Mid-South for over 40 years. Our employees have been extensively trained, and include a certified arborist to help you make the most informed choices for your trees.

To learn more about we have to offer, get in touch with us today by calling 901.424.4548, emailing us at [email protected], or by clicking here for a FREE quote.

This post first appeared on https://redstreeservice.com

Too much or not enough of this can kill your tree. The fallen leaves and needles we rake or blow away from trees are their way of naturally protecting their roots, thus, we mulch.

Tree roots depend on moist nutrient-rich soil year-round for continued growth and increased health. Every fall, your trees should be mulched appropriately to ensure their winter survival and spring prosperity.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com presents the definition, importance, and proper application of mulch for increased tree health and longevity, as well as providing answers to frequently asked questions.

What Is Mulching?

Mulching is the process of applying a layer of protective soil covering around trees, shrubs, and plants. Mulch is typically composed of organic material such as bark chips, straw, or pine needles.

The Importance of Mulching

Just as fallen leaves and needles do in the forest, mulch on urban landscapes:

• conserves soil moisture.
• prevents soil compaction.
• stops weed growth.
• insulates the soil from hot and freezing temperatures.
• improves soil fertility and health as it decomposes.
• helps prevent soil erosion.
• enhances the visual appeal of the landscape.
• prevents lawnmower damage to the root flare and trunk.

Of all the above benefits, perhaps the most significant is that mulch helps regulate soil temperature and moisture during extended periods of extreme heat or cold.

How To Mulch Around Trees

The following mulching instructions can be applied to trees of all ages and sizes.

Once you have determined the ideal type of mulch for your trees, proceed to:

1. Create a “no mulch zone” extending 8 to 12 inches from the root flare all the way around the tree.
2. Remove or cut grass as low as possible from the “no mulch zone” to the dripline. (the dripline is a circle around a tree at which the canopy ends)
3. Collect a soil sample and test it for its pH level and nutrient content.
4. Provide a deep watering to the area that will be mulched.
5. Apply a 3 to 4-inch layer (up to 6 inches for areas with extended freezing temperatures) of mulch from the “no mulch zone” to the tree’s dripline.
6. Ensure that the mulch is not in contact with the tree’s trunk or root flare.
7. Adjust the pH level or enrich the soil by applying granular fertilizer to the mulch. No need to mix it in, regular watering and rain will carry it to the soil.

The ideal time to mulch a tree is immediately after planting it. Established trees can be mulched in the fall.

Each fall thereafter, fluff the mulch and add more when necessary.

Note: Compacted mulch will lose its ability to regulate soil moisture and temperature. When this occurs, use a rake to fluff the mulch or replace it.

People Also Ask

Question: Can mulch kill a tree?
Answer: Yes. If the mulch is resting against the tree trunk or root flare, it can cause this area to decay, leading to the destabilization and death of the tree.

Question: Do you have to remove old mulch before applying new mulch?
Answer: Yes. If the mulch is riddled with fungi, bacteria, or you have detected an easily transmitted disease such as anthracnose, this mulch should be disposed of with care.

Answer: No. If there are no signs of disease and the intention is to refresh or fluff the mulch.

Question: Do I need to mulch every year?
Answer: If you are using mulch composed of bark, wood chips, or other organic material, annually revitalizing or refreshing the mulch is a good standard.

Question: What is the best mulch to keep bugs away?
Answer: Cedar and cypress mulch are effective at repelling, killing, or inhibiting most insects and some ant species.

Question: Is mulching only for deciduous trees?
Answer: No. Both evergreen and deciduous trees can be mulched. This is especially true in climates that experience extreme heat in the summer or long periods of freezing temperatures in the winter.

Question: Can you put too much mulch around a tree?
Answer: Yes. While one of the purposes of mulch is to help the soil retain moisture, too much mulch can retain too much moisture causing the roots to rot, subsequently causing hydraulic failure and death of the tree.

Conversely, not enough mulch can allow too much moisture to escape. This may result in “drought-like” conditions or the freezing of the roots depending on the season.

Mulching for Better Tree Health

Trees naturally mulch themselves to protect their roots when leaves or needles fall to the ground. In a landscape or urban setting, those leaves and needles get removed. You could say that mulching is our way of returning that root protection to the trees.

In this article, you discovered the definition, importance, and proper application of mulch. You also uncovered frequently asked mulching questions and their answers.

By properly mulching your trees, you are promoting their continued growth and health. Trees that are improperly mulched, or not mulched at all run the risk of declining health, successful attacks from insects and disease, and eventual death.

Sources:
https://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/over-mulching.shtml
https://www.johnson.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/agent-articles/trees-shrubs/how-to-mulch-trees.html
https://forestry.usu.edu/trees-cities-towns/tree-care/mulching-tree-health

https://plus.google.com/+Toddsmariettatreeservices

The post Proper Mulching Techniques Around Trees appeared first on http://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com.

Liriodendron tulipifera also known as tulip poplar is neither tulip nor poplar. This species is a relative of the magnolia tree and is unbelievably easy to care for.

A native North American species, L. tulipifera is the state tree of multiple states, unique in its rapid rate of growth, and exceptional in its beauty. The tulip tree should be strongly considered for mid-sized and large landscapes.

72tree.com gathered tulip tree information, problems, care tips, and answers several frequently asked questions.

Tulip Tree Information

Liriodendron tulipifera is a blooming tree species native to eastern North America. The tulip tree is among the tallest of the eastern US species, is long-lived, and a favorite specimen tree in landscaping.

Tree Name – Yellow poplar
Scientific Name/Species – Liriodendron tulipifera
Family – Magnoliaceae
Genus – Liriodendron
Nickname(s) – Tulip tree, tulipwood, American tulip tree, tulip tree, tulip poplar, whitewood, and Oonseentia (in the native Miami-Illinois language).
State Tree – Indiana, Kentucky, and Tennessee.

Lifespan – Can live up to 500 years or more when planted in optimal conditions.
Type – Deciduous.
Hardiness Zone(s) – from 4 to 9
Soil Requirements – Prefers well-drained, slightly acidic, moist, rich, and fertile soil with full sun exposure.
Planting Spacing – 35ft between trees.
Watering Requirements – Regular when young or planted. Minimal thereafter.

Height – 80 to 100ft on average (can reach nearly 200ft under optimal conditions)
DBH – 4 to 6ft.
Crown Span – 30ft or more at maturity (can be conical or oval in shape).
Root Spread – Yellow poplar roots will tend to match the growth of the tree. If the tree is 100ft tall by 40ft wide, its roots will likely grow 100ft deep and 40ft wide. In some cases, the roots may extend much farther outward in search of water.
Uses in Landscaping – A magnificent specimen, screen, or large shade tree, and is better suited for more spacious landscapes.
Winter/Fall Colors – Yellow before leaf-drop in the fall.

Tulip Tree Problems

Healthy tulip trees are incredibly resistant to insect infestations and disease. However, when your tree is stressed by drought conditions, soil compaction, soil nutrient depletion, or poor pruning, insects and diseases can successfully attack it.

Pests – Tuliptree scale, yellow poplar weevil, and aphids, in the spring and summer months.
Disease – Powdery mildew, verticillium wilt, and canker.

Major Disease Threat – Verticillium Wilt

Symptoms of Verticillium wilt are premature foliar chlorosis and necrosis, and discoloration in both stems and roots. Symptoms of wilting become more apparent on warm or hot days.

This pathogen attacks a potential host by colonizing its roots and spreading throughout the roots, trunks, and stems. Due to this, one of the best forms of disease management is to encourage the healthy growth of your tree.

Tulip Tree Care Tips

There isn’t much you will need to worry about as long as your tulip tree is:

• Within its hardiness zone (4-9).
• Growing in partial shade to full sun.
• Planted in moist, well-drained soil with a pH of 3.7 to 6.5.

Pruning should be done once the tree has entered dormancy in late fall and early winter. However, when cankers are detected, prune out the affected area including the canker (all the way to the trunk if needed).

If the canker is located on the trunk, or when other irregularities are detected, call on a professional tree service or arborist to evaluate the tree and offer guidance.

People Also Ask

Question: Are tulip tree roots invasive?
Answer: No. If they are planted far from structures, walkways, or driveways, and the roots are readily able to absorb moisture.

Answer: Yes. As with all tree species, the purpose of roots is a never-ending quest for water and nutrients. When they are deprived, they will spread, and make their way underneath foundations and other structures.

For more on the destructive capabilities of tree roots, read 72tree.com/tree-roots-buckling-concrete-driveway/

Question: What is tulip poplar wood used for?
Answer: Lumber from tulip poplars is commonly used for fencing, siding, flooring, and some furniture.

Question: Can poplar wood be painted?
Answer: As this wood has a particularly straight grain, paints adhere to it quite well. Stains, on the other hand, have a tendency to blotch and usually require that a conditioner be applied before application.

Question: Is poplar as strong as oak?
Answer: No. While considered to be a hardwood, the fast growth rate of the tree produces a softer/weaker wood making it easy to work with.

Question: Do tulip trees bloom every year?
Answer: Yes. However, this species only produces its first blooms after nearly 20 years of growth. Thereafter, it will bloom annually in late spring or early summer.

Question: Are tulip trees messy?
Answer: Yes. Like all deciduous tree species, they lose their foliage in the fall. If subjected to drought conditions, tulip trees may drop their foliage prematurely in late summer. Not to mention that when the tree blooms, the flower petals will litter the ground around the tree.

Question: Can tulip trees be planted in Georgia?
Answer: Yes. The entire state is within the required hardiness zone for healthy tulip tree growth. For more on this and other great landscape trees, read 72tree.com/5-popular-alpharetta-ga-shade-trees/

Liriodendron Tulipifera is a Perfect Landscape Specimen

Although sometimes called “tulip” or “poplar,” or both, the Liriodendron tulipifera is neither of the two. This magnificent relative of the magnolia rapidly grows tall and full, making it highly desirable as a landscape specimen tree.

In this article, you discovered tulip tree information and specifications, its problems, how to care for them, and answers to frequently asked questions.

If the tulip tree isn’t a part of your landscape, you are missing out on a fast growing and beautifully shaped shade or screen tree. They are easy to plant and require minimal care efforts.

Sources:
https://extensiongardener.ces.ncsu.edu/extgardener-tulip-poplars-for-large-and-small-landscapes/
http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/tuliptree.html
https://extension.psu.edu/tulip-poplar-diseases
http://www.apsnet.org/edcenter/intropp/lessons/fungi/ascomycetes/pages/verticilliumwilt.aspx
http://hort.ufl.edu/database/documents/pdf/tree_fact_sheets/lirtula.pdf

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/tulip-tree-information-problems-care/

That concerning tree in your yard may be diseased and risky to leave unaddressed. However, inaction is what often leads to severe and avoidable damage.

While diseased trees can pose a threat to your landscape, property, and surrounding people, identifying and treating such cases properly can mitigate and prevent disastrous tree fall situations.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com names five common tree diseases in Marietta GA, how to identify, treat, and when to have the tree evaluated by a professional.

Fire Blight Symptoms and Treatment

Fire blight is a disease that flourishes in humid, rainy weather when the average temperature rises to 60 degrees Fahrenheit and above.

Symptoms – As the name implies, symptoms of this disease cause the appearance of fire scorching or burning. When inspecting your tree, look for these signs:

• Infected flowers turn black and die.
• Twigs and stems turn black and curl over.
• Branches appear scorched as their leaves turn black and shrivel up.
• Cankers will appear on branches and the trunk.

Transmission – Fire blight is easily transmitted to other trees, shrubs, and plants by birds, animals, splashing water, and unsterile gardening tools.

Treatment – The following measures should be taken immediately to eliminate and prevent the spread of fire blight:

• Apply a copper fungicide before the flowering season.
• Extensive pruning of all affected areas.
• Take pest control measures to eliminate ants and other insects which may transmit the disease.
• Convert your watering method to drip lines. (Avoid sprinklers or spraying)
• Sanitize gardening equipment with a water and bleach solution after use on infected landscapes.

Call a Professional – When more than 25% of a tree must be removed, seek the advice of a professional tree service or arborist. It may be necessary to remove the tree altogether. Likewise, when multiple trees, shrubs, and plants are infected, a professional can help you devise a plan to halt the disease.

Powdery Mildew Symptoms and Treatment

Much like fire blight, powdery mildew thrives in the springtime when temperatures range from 60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. There are several fungi which can produce powdery mildew.

Symptoms – As the name suggests, powdery mildew can appear on any part of its host and resembles white or slightly off-white mildew. Numerous spores begin to emerge as the fungi mature.

Transmission – Insects such as aphids are the principal means of transmission. However, when spores are released, splashing water or wind may spread the fungi.

Treatment – The following measures will help you control and eliminate powdery mildew from your landscape:

• Apply non-chemical organic fungicides such as milk, bicarbonates, and oil. An effective solution is diluted at 1 part fungicide to 10 parts water. This fungicidal mix produces outstanding results when used for preventative measures or sprayed directly on the infected plant.
• Applying a neem oil solution disrupts the fungus’ metabolism – preventing spore production.

Call a Professional – When topical treatment can’t stop powdery mildew, or when it eliminates powdery mildew, but your tree’s health continues to decline, there may be another pathogen or insect at work. Request an inspection and evaluation from a tree care professional.

Anthracnose Symptoms and Treatment

Anthracnose thrives in the springtime with prolonged periods of rainfall and when temperatures are consistently mild.

Symptoms – The symptoms of anthracnose include the following:

• Bud and twig death
• Dead spots on leaves
• Dead tissue or blotches along and between leaf veins
• Unseasonal or premature leaf-drop
• Lesions known as cankers in tree bark (open wounds)
• Dark colored pimple-like fruiting structures (acervuli) on the underside of leaves.

Transmission – Similar to fire blight, anthracnose is easily transmitted to other trees, shrubs, and plants by wildlife, splashing water, rain, and unsterile gardening tools.

Anthracnose fungi (there are several fungi which can cause anthracnose) can survive the winter months in fallen leaves, or in cankers formed in the bark of branches or the trunk.

Treatment – The following measures should be taken immediately to eliminate and prevent the spread of anthracnose:

• Extensive pruning of all affected parts.
• Utilize a fire pit or bonfire to destroy affected clippings and foliage.
• Convert your watering systems to drip lines. (Avoid sprinklers or spraying)
• Sanitize gardening equipment with a water and bleach solution after use on infected landscapes.

Read the following article for more on How to Identify, Treat, and Prevent Anthracnose.

Call a Professional – When 25% or more of a tree must be removed, seek the advice and assistance of an arborist or reputable tree service.

It may be necessary to remove the tree altogether. Without treating anthracnose, you will be leaving your tree susceptible to other infections and infestations.

Root Rot Symptoms and Treatment

Changes in landscaping, soil compaction, soil composition, or persistent rains may cause root rot.

Symptoms – Severe and fast branch die-back, premature color change of the leaves, widespread leaf spots, sap coming from the bark, and mushrooms around the root flare may all indicate root rot.

Transmission – Root rot is typically the result of poor drainage or changes in the soil composition and texture. This either kills the roots or allows access to pathogens, which weakens and eventually kills them.

Treatment – If your tree is diagnosed with root rot, the recommended treatment is to have the tree removed.

To prevent further cases of root rot, ensure that the soil in your landscape is well-drained, and that roots are protected from soil compaction.

Call a Professional – If you suspect that a tree is suffering and dying from root rot, call a professional to have the tree evaluated immediately. Depending on the size of the tree and the amount of damage to the roots, the tree may fall at any time.

Heart Rot Symptoms and Treatment

When a fungal disease causes the softening and decay of the wood found at the center of a tree’s trunk and branches, this is known as heart rot.

The softening of the heartwood leaves a tree vulnerable to the pressure of its own weight and prone to collapse.

Symptoms – A reliable indicator that heart rot is present within a tree is the presence of fungus conks or mushrooms growing from the tree’s trunk or branches.

Transmission – Heart rot is able to attack the heartwood of a tree through damaged bark or improper pruning.

Treatment – Control of heart rot is achieved by:

• Maintaining your trees healthy and vigorous.
• Using proper pruning techniques.
• Having the trees inspected by an arborist annually.
• Providing post-storm care and maintenance.

Heart rot affects trees across the world. When trees are healthy, they are able to isolate and stop this disease through a process called compartmentalization.

Call a Professional – If you suspect that your tree is suffering from heart rot, do not hesitate to call a professional tree service to evaluate the tree and recommend a course of action. Act promptly, as trees that suffer from this disease can cause catastrophic damages when they collapse unexpectedly.

Tree Disease and Landscape Health

Because diseased trees are susceptible to fall at any time, it is imperative to be educated and swift in taking action to treat these disease cases.

Discovering how to identify and treat the diseases that are common in Marietta Georgia is a great start.

Being informed and giving more attention to your trees may seem like extra effort, but sleeping well at night knowing your property and people are safe is worth the energy.

Sources:
http://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=B1238&title=Common%20Landscape%20Diseases%20in%20Georgia
http://www.gfc.state.ga.us/community-forests/management/tree-care/insects-and-diseases/index.cfm

https://plus.google.com/+Toddsmariettatreeservices

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One of the best parts of being a homeowner with a green thumb is the ability to plan and implement landscape installation and design. There’s so much that can be done to beautify our Pacific Northwest lawns and outdoor living spaces.

The great Pacific Northwest offers much inspiration. Step outside and hike up to one of the many viewpoints in the area to get just a glimpse of the many different tree and shrub species and the multitude of living and decorative color available as the seasons come and go.

Our friends at the Arbor Day Foundation have a primer on landscape design that provides an excellent starting point as we examine how best to implement these practices for your individual green space. It includes some of our favorites landscape installation and design ideas, including the “Bird Magnet Hedgerow,” the “Flowering Green Giant” and the “Flowering Woods Edge.”

Urban Forest Pro

At Urban Forest Pro, our ISA-certified arborists have the tools, experience and expertise to help property owners bring their biggest landscaping dreams to full and vibrant life.

However, it’s important to remember that there is a difference between arborists and landscapers. So, while it can be helpful to harness the specific artistic and scientific strengths of each specialty to get the landscape design you want, these two fields will bring different skills to the job.

As we have written about in the Urban Forest Pro blog post referenced above, “it’s best to see these two fields … as separate jobs best left to their respective professionals. … Of course, some Portland arborists also offer extensive landscaping services. However, for the health of your trees and the safety of your family, it’s best to entrust tree services only to certified arborists.”

For example, let’s say a property owner needs help with tree relocation. Although landscapers may have some design and aesthetic ideas on where to relocate a tree, they’re unlikely to have the kind of expertise — not to mention the kind of equipment and training — necessary to actually do the job.

There are also permitting and city regulations that come into play. Again, an ISA-certified arborist is the best choice for projects of this magnitude. That’s where arborists at Urban Forest Pro come in.

Landscape installation and design is a fun and fruitful activity. The first step to creating your own personal Garden of Eden is knowing where to turn for help and expertise. Why not start with the pros? Contact Urban Forest Pro today to find out how we can help you with your projects!

This post first appeared on https://www.urbanforestprofessionals.com

The weather in most urban areas of the Pacific Northwest is mild compared to many other parts of the country. It’s often jokingly suggested that the weather here — especially west of the Cascades — falls into just two categories: wet and dry.

However, as is usually the case, the reality is a little more complex. The people of the great PNW experience four full seasons.

To be sure, the beginning and end of those four seasons rarely conform to the “official” seasonal start and stop dates on the calendar. But make no mistake: Most Northwesterners are more than familiar with tending spring gardens, baking in the hot summer sun, raking piles of fallen leaves and shoveling the occasional mountain of snow.

Homeowners, property owners, commercial developers and others are keenly aware of these duties. It takes a lot of work to maintain yards and common areas so that they’re not only beautiful, well-managed and safe, but conform to local rules and regulations, whether from cities or homeowners associations.

When winter comes a-knockin’, there are extra precautions that must be taken. So let’s take a few moments to focus on winter tree care.

Urban Forest Pro

Our admired and beloved urban tree canopy can pose continuing challenges to property owners, especially in winter. Damaged branches can fall onto people, structures, vehicles and power lines. Soggy winter weather can lead to tree splits, cracks and root problems.

We’ve covered many of these winter tree care challenges in the Urban Forest Pro blog, but it’s worth taking a deeper dive into some of the specifics.

First, though, it’s important to remember that many of the problems we’ll discuss in this article are best left to professionals. Considering how enormous some of our valuable resident trees can be — not to mention how important they are both culturally and aesthetically — it’s wise to entrust their ongoing care to Urban Forest Pro.

Each and every one of our arborists is ISA-certified, meaning our customers, both residential and commercial, trust us to care for their trees as if they were our own.

Contact Urban Forest Pro today to find out how we can help!

How to care for your trees in the winter

Think of winter tree care as the Four P’s.

Pruning

Preparing trees for winter requires several steps, depending on the type of tree. For example, deciduous trees (those that shed their leaves) use their dormant periods to renew their energy reserves for the coming year’s growth. That makes winter a good time for tree pruning and other maintenance work. Pruning promotes the development of healthy branch structures, and the pruning process rids the tree of any limbs that may have been damaged or diseased.

Planting

Another timely activity for the winter is tree planting. As long as the ground is not frozen, it’s totally fine to plant a tree in the winter, although it’s important to take extra precautions when planting in or near soggy soils. Make sure planting is done correctly, too — i.e., the right tree is planted in the right location, the soil is properly prepared, etc.

Prettifying

Winter is also a splendid time to consider adding decorative trees to your property. Urban Forest Pro has plenty of tips on adding color to your winter landscape.

Prepping

Winter is a good time to prep your property for a strong growing season by eliminating weeds, cleaning up the soil and, if possible, testing the soil itself. (The certified arborists at Urban Forest Pro can take care of soil testing for you; it’s just one of the many tree services we provide.) If you have fruit trees, they will likely require additional care and maintenance in order to ensure a bountiful harvest come the next growing season. Fruit trees require proper nutrients — and it’s absolutely vital to monitor the trees for pests and disease.

Contact Urban Forest Pro today and see how much work we can get done for you in time for spring!

This post first appeared on https://www.urbanforestprofessionals.com

One of the healthiest fruits you can consume comes from the Punica granatum (pomegranate) tree. But how much do you really know about this amazing tree species?

Pomegranate trees produce the incredible pomegranate fruit and have been cultivated for several millennia. Relatively easy to care for, this tree, its flower, and fruit all have profound historical and cultural significance.

www.72tree.com gathered pomegranate tree information and history, care tips, and answers several frequently asked questions.

Pomegranate Tree Information

Pomegranate is a tree species native to the region of Iran to Afghanistan and Pakistan to Northern India. Today, the species is cultivated throughout the Middle East, Northern and Tropical Africa, Asia, the Mediterranean Basin, and parts of the Southwestern United States.

Tree Name – Pomegranate
Scientific Name/Species – Punica granatum
Family – Lythraceae
Genus – Punica
Nickname – Winter Jewels, Red Ruby, and Chinese Apple

Lifespan – Can live up to 200 years or more when planted in optimal conditions.
Type – Deciduous.
Hardiness Zone(s) – from 8a to 13a
Soil Requirements – Versatile, prefers well-drained rich, fertile soil with full sun exposure.
Planting Spacing – 5 to 6ft
Watering Requirements – Regular when young or planted. Minimal thereafter.

Height – 15ft on average. Can reach 30ft under optimal conditions.
DBH – NA
Crown Span – 8 to 10ft or more at maturity.
Root Spread – Wide and shallow (10-25ft from the trunk and 2 to 3ft deep)
Uses in Landscaping – Highlight tree, border or division, and addition to orchards.

Winter/Fall Colors – Yellow before leaf-drop in the fall.

Pests – Healthy pomegranates are incredibly resilient to insect attacks but may see aphids, whiteflies, mealybugs, and thrips in the spring and summer months. Neem oil or other organic insecticides can be used to control them easily.
Disease – Keeping your pomegranate tree healthy will help it avoid or fight rot, anthracnose, and fungal wilt.
Major Disease Threat – Heart Rot

Pomegranate Origin and History

Originating from Iran to the Himalayas in northern India, Punica granatum (pomegranate) has been grown for several millennia, and was cultivated and naturalized over the extent of the Mediterranean region.

It wasn’t until 1769 that Spanish settlers introduced the first pomegranate specimen to California. Two and a half centuries later, pomegranate trees can be found throughout the US in a commercial capacity as well as in private landscapes and potted in our homes.

Armenian culture sees the pomegranate as a semi-religious icon. A symbol representing abundance, marriage, and fertility, the fruit and its juice are used with Armenian food, heritage, and wine.

As the fruit contains numerous seeds, it is perceived to symbolize fruitfulness. Thus, fostering the tradition to eat the fruit on Rosh Hashana. Besides several mentions in the Bible, some believe the fruit has 613 seeds corresponding to the 613 commandments found in the Torah.

Care Tips for Pomegranate Trees

Pomegranate trees do not require much attention. They are very adaptable to their environment and remarkably resilient to infestation and illness when healthy.

The following tips will assist you in keeping your pomegranate tree(s) healthy and thriving.

Planting Location and Soil – Pomegranates will adapt to nearly any well-drained soil condition regardless of its pH. As long as your specimen receives full sun and is protected from temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit, it should thrive.

Watering – Pomegranate roots grow within the first 2 to 3 feet of soil and do not require deep watering. Keep the soil moist for the first 8 months to 1 year, and again when the tree is bearing fruit.

Once the tree’s roots are established, you can cut back to 2 waterings per month in the drier months. By this time though, your tree will be able to tolerate drought conditions.

When the tree is bearing fruit, you can prevent the fruit from splitting by keeping the soil moist.

Fertilizer – After planting a pomegranate tree, you do not need to fertilize it for a full year. The use of organic mulch (manure or compost) will suffice.

Thereafter, each spring, you can apply 2 ounces of nitrogen granules. Increase the dose 1 ounce for each subsequent year.

There are fertilizers specially formulated for fruit trees which may be used as well.

Pruning – Pomegranate trees produce flowers on new growth and can be pruned to remove damaged or dying branches, to shape the tree, or to remove suckers, dead wood, and unwanted growth.

The best time to prune your tree is late winter or early spring before the buds break, and when the threat of frost has subsided.

Be cautious of over-pruning, as it will reduce the amount of fruit your tree is able to produce.

Frequently Asked Questions

Question: Do All Pomegranates Have 613 Seeds?
Answer: No. While some will debate that all pomegranates have this number of seeds, it would be quite easy to prove the contrary.

Question: What Are Pomegranate Seeds Called?
Answer: Arils.

Question: Are Pomegranates Anti-Inflammatory?
Answer: Studies show that pomegranates have excellent anti-inflammatory properties.

Question: What Vitamins Are in Pomegranate Seeds?
Answer: Pomegranates have B vitamins including folate, vitamin C, vitamin K, and potassium.

Question: Are Pomegranates an Antioxidant?
Answer: They have high contents of polyphenols and are renowned for their antioxidant capabilities.

Question: How Long Does It Take for Pomegranate to Fruit?
Answer: Pomegranate trees can take up to 7 months for their fruit to fully mature. The tree itself will only bear fruit after two to three years of hearty growth.

Question: When Do Pomegranate Fruits Ripen?
Answer: Pomegranate fruit in the northern hemisphere typically ripens from September to February, and from March to May in the southern hemisphere.

Pomegranate Trees and Fruit for Your Landscape and Health

Cultivated for thousands of years, the pomegranate tree and its fruit have been gracing landscapes and providing powerful antioxidants through vitamin-rich seeds for generation after generation.

In this article, you discovered the history of the pomegranate tree, how to care for them, and the answers to many common questions about the species.

Growing a pomegranate tree is easy when compared to other fruit trees, and should be a part of your landscape. With a little patience and care, you could have ripening pomegranates in under three years.

Sources:

https://www.science.gov/topicpages/t/total+pomegranate+tannin
https://www.crfg.org/pubs/ff/pomegranate.html
https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/pomegranate/

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/pomegranate-tree-information-questions-answers/

Although it may not seem like it, winter is actually an ideal time to prune most trees and shrubs. Even in the relatively mild Mid-South winters, most woody plants are dormant, which means there’s less chance of disease and insects invading your pruning cuts. Now that almost all the leaves have fallen, it’s much easier to see the overall form and structure of your plants and trees, making damaged and diseased branches more readily apparent. Winter pruning also leaves your plants with extra root and energy reserves, which helps wounds to heal more quickly, and supports the kind of vigorous spring growth that will obscure any pruning cuts. It also gives you a good excuse to get outside and enjoy some fresh air!

Why pruning is important

There are a number of reasons why you should be regularly trimming and pruning your trees and shrubs. The most common reason is to reduce or maintain the size and shape of a plant or tree. Pruning also:

• influences trees to grow in a more ideal, and stable, way
• reduces the risk of compromised branch structures and improper weight distribution
• improves the overall look of a tree or shrub
• removes dead, diseased, and damaged branches
• increases flowers and fruits
• stimulates growth
• removes branches that may be a problem for pedestrians, traffic, and buildings

Here at Red’s Tree Services, we offer tree trimming and pruning services throughout Memphis and the surrounding communities. Certain species of trees require more precise timing and different approaches for proper pruning, and having an experienced arborist on hand will help keep both you and your trees safe. Using a licensed tree service professional ensures a correct pruning and trimming job will be done, creating and maintaining strong tree structures that look beautiful and eliminate safety hazards. However, there is plenty of pruning the average homeowner can handle. Let’s take a look at some of the techniques you can use when pruning most woody plants, how they protect your trees and shrubs, and when you should call in a professional!

Pruning Techniques

There are a few basic pruning techniques, each of which is aimed at producing a different effect. No matter the cut, you should use only sharp, high-quality, well-maintained equipment for efficiency and safety.

Pinching

This easy “cut” can actually be achieved without cutting: terminal buds can simply be pinched off with a thumb and forefinger. Pinching stops the stem from elongating and encourages bushy growth. This technique is typically done on annual and perennial flowers and sometimes certain vegetables. It can also be effective for directing growth on small-leafed shrubs in order to give the plant an even shape.

Heading

With heading, you would cut further back on the shoot than you would when pinching. In most cases, you’ll want to make your cut at a slight angle above the bud or side branch. This type of cut should not leave a stub, since these will usually rot and increase the chances of insects and disease settling in to attack the healthy material. Stubs that are left from pruning usual rot and later invite insects and disease to move in and attack healthy material. Heading is normally done with hand-held pruning shears, and stimulates the buds just below the cut, encouraging dense growth. This is a more aggressive trimming approach than pinching, and is suitable for shaping certain small shrubs and flowering perennials.

Thinning

Thinning removes an entire branch back to the next branch or the main trunk. It reduces the bulk of a plant with minimal regrowth, and promotes better health by removing weak and diseased branches, and increasing light and air penetration. When making a thinning cut, steer clear of cutting into the branch collar. This is the base area of the branch you are removing, and cutting into or removing it can slow down the healing process and increase the risk of infection. Depending on the thickness of the branch, you can use hand-held pruners, loppers, or a pruning saw to remove it.

Shearing

Shearing is a technique that is customarily used to create a hedge or a bush with a specific form, such as spherical or square. While it is a form of heading, it makes no attempt to cut back to a bud. Shearing stimulates a large number of buds to produce new growth, so be aware that once you start it, you’ll need to repeat this job regularly. Because this method cuts right through leaves, it’s best done on small-leafed plants, where the damage is less noticeable. You can use hand-held or electric hedge shears for this type of pruning.

Winter pruning in Memphis with Red’s Tree Service

When done correctly, pruning during winter will result in a vigorous burst of new growth in the spring. We normally recommend waiting until the coldest part of winter has passed. Although you may choose to do your own pruning and trimming, the kind of thoughtful, professional pruning our expert team can provide during the dormant winter season will allow you more time to enjoy all the fruits and blooms of our labors once spring arrives! For a free estimate, get in touch with us today.

This post first appeared on https://redstreeservice.com

The Christmas tree is the pinnacle of holiday decorating but can also be a nightmare when bugs hitch a ride on the tree into your home.

Infested Christmas trees present a series of problems for the homes and neighborhoods they decorate. Pest control and prevention are essential measures when putting up a live tree for the holidays.

72tree.com collected information on the bugs that can be found on Christmas trees, how to prevent the buying of an infested tree, eliminating any insects found on the tree, and how to properly dispose of the tree.

Bugs on Christmas Trees

When you go to your local Christmas tree lot, keep in mind that just a few days prior, those trees were cut down from a Christmas tree farm or a forest.

Insects may have nested in or laid eggs on these trees. The following are some of the insect species you may encounter living or hatching in your Christmas tree:

• Aphids
• Spiders
• Bark Beetles
• Mites
• Scale
• Needle Scale
• Mantises
• Spotted Lanternflies
• Sawfly
• Adelgids
• Stink Bugs

Note: Store-bought wreaths and swags made from live tree stems may travel thousands of miles from where they originated (potentially exposing your ecosystem to a new or invasive insect species). During the manufacturing and packing processes, bugs and the eggs they lay can easily be overlooked.

How To Prevent Bugs on your Christmas Tree

You can prevent bringing bugs into your home on a Christmas tree by following a few easy steps:

Right Time to Shop – Do not shop for a Christmas tree at night. It is easier to spot insects and eggs during the daytime.

Inspect the Under Side of Branches – Lay the tree down and get an up-close look at the underside of the branches and the trunk. Pay particular attention to the lower branches. You are looking for:

• Visible Insects
• Red or Brown Dots (Mites)
• Clusters of Eggs (Mantises and Lanternflies)
• What Appear to Be Snowflakes (Adelgids)
• White or Red Dots on Needles (Scale)
• Brown Cocoons (Sawfly)
• Small Holes in Trunk (Bark Beetle)
• Sawdust Trails (Bark Beetle)

Let It Stand – Attach the base and let the tree stand in the garage for a day or two. As a preventative measure, apply neem oil or insecticidal soap to the tree before moving it inside and decorating it.

How To Get Rid of Christmas Tree Insects

One of the most common insects found on Christmas trees is aphids. Killing aphids and other insects can be accomplished by spraying the tree with non-toxic neem oil or a homemade insecticidal soaps. Read more about killing aphids.

For the most part, newly hatched insects and spiders quickly expire from desiccation (they dry out). However, there are those that do survive.

Beetles, mantises, spotted lanternflies, and sawflies can leave the tree and potentially make their way outside. Again, the application of neem oil and insecticidal soap can be used to control these insects.

If you spot insects or eggs on your tree, DO NOT use commercial aerosol bug sprays. There is no necessity to expose yourself and your loved ones to these harsh chemicals. And, as many of them are flammable, you risk having the tree and your home go up in flames.

For pests that have fallen to the floor or are on your furniture, avoid stepping on them or crushing them (they can leave stains, and some insects have a putrid smell).

Use a vacuum cleaner that doesn’t have a beater bar to suck them up. Then treat the bag or the receptacle with neem oil or insecticidal soap before disposing of them.

How To Dispose of a Christmas Tree

To help preserve the ecosystem in your region, avoid placing the used tree on brush piles or compost heaps. Invasive insects and diseases are able to escape into landscapes and neighboring forests, becoming established, and upsetting the native ecosystem.

When you take steps to properly purchase, treat, and dispose of a Christmas tree, these risks are dramatically reduced.

Many municipalities and counties nationwide have pickup programs established to retrieve your tree at curbside and properly dispose of it.

If you miss this service or it isn’t available, you can take the tree to a solid waste facility, dump, or landfill. This will keep any pests that may remain in the tree from spreading.

Bug-Free Christmas Tree for the Holiday Season

An infested Christmas tree inside your home probably wasn’t on your wish-list for this holiday season. When bugs hitch a ride into your home, you need to know how to handle them efficiently.

From this article, you have discovered which bugs can be found on a Christmas tree, what to look for when purchasing the tree, how to eliminate any bugs on the tree, and how to properly dispose of the tree once the season is over.

Your home, neighborhood, and neighboring forest are all at risk when the poor management of a Christmas tree infestation allows foreign or invasive insects to disrupt a native ecosystem. Pest control and prevention should be one of the main concerns of a live tree in your home for the holidays.

Sources:

https://hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/insects-christmas-trees
https://christmastrees.ces.ncsu.edu/badbugs/
https://extension.unh.edu/resources/files/resource000986_rep2299.pdf
https://aces.nmsu.edu/ces/yard/2000/122300.html

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/preventing-eliminating-christmas-tree-bugs/

You may be unknowingly spreading disease all over your landscape. Those yellow, brown, or black spots on your tree may be anthracnose. Avoid hosing down your tree to try and clean it, you could be spreading this fungi everywhere!

Over time and repeated attacks, anthracnose can weaken your tree’s health and provide an opportunity for other disease and infestation. Once identified, tree anthracnose should be treated immediately.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered this information to help you identify, treat, prevent anthracnose, and uncover the fungi responsible for causing it.

What Is the Cause of Anthracnose?

Tree anthracnose is caused by a fungal infection fueled by optimal weather conditions. The following are some of the fungi responsible for anthracnose and some of the tree species they infect:

• Apiognomonia Errabunda – Attacks tilia, Quercus, beech, oak, lindens, and Fagus (ficus) trees.
• Apiognomonia Veneta – Attacks london planes and sycamores.
• Colletotrichum Gloeosporioides – Attacks ash, tulip, and cacao or cocoa trees.
• Discula Fraxinea – Attacks maple, ash, and fringetree.
• Glomerella Fungi Species – Attacks banana, mango, papaya, and lemons.
• Gnomonia Fungi Species – Attacks oak, maple, sycamore, walnut, ash, and dogwood trees.
• Marssonina Fungi Species – Attacks aspen, poplars, and cottonwood trees.
• Stegophora ulmea – Attacks elm trees.

The above-mentioned fungi overwinter in either the leaves that have fallen to the ground, or in cankers on the tree’s bark. In springtime, the fungi’s reproduction process is favored by cool temperatures and prolonged periods of rain.

As the fungi generate spores, splashing rain, overhead watering, and/or the wind disperses them to leaf buds, shoots, or young leaves. The fungi then colonize the tissue of the new host and begin producing spores to be carried off in the same manner.

As long as temperatures remain mild and moist conditions persist, the fungi will continue to colonize leaf tissue, produce spores, and reinfect the same leaves or spread to others. Without intervention, this process can repeat itself throughout spring and into early summer.

Anthracnose and other fungal diseases that attack trees need water (moisture) to grow, propagate, and colonize new hosts. These diseases are less common in warmer regions that have less rainfall.

What Are the Symptoms of Anthracnose?

While anthracnose can be caused by several different species of fungi, the symptoms are the same. Here is how to identify an anthracnose infection:

• Bud death
• Twig death
• Dead spots on leaves
• Dead tissue along leaf veins
• Dead blotches between leaf veins
• Unseasonal or premature leaf-drop
• Lesions known as cankers in tree bark (open wounds)

A common symptom among all of the anthracnose diseases is the presence of acervuli. Use a magnifying glass to examine the underside of infected leaves. You are looking for dark colored pimple-like fruiting structures (acervuli).

In infected trees, these structures may also be found peppered along dead twigs.

How Do You Treat Anthracnose?

While damages resulting from anthracnose infections are generally inconsequential to the overall health of a tree, repeated attacks from the disease year after year can weaken a tree’s defenses enough to leave it susceptible to other diseases and insect infestations.

The following measures will help to treat the disease and reduce the potential for infection in the coming springtime:

Don’t Spray the Foliage – Anthracnose fungi depend on splashing water and wind to carry them from one host to another. If you try to wash off the foliage, you are doing more to help the fungi live than to save your tree.

Fallen Leaves – Collect and destroy fallen leaves. These dead leaves (if left on the ground) provide an optimal location for fungi to overwinter.

Pruning – For the fungi and acervuli found in blighted twigs, these areas should be pruned back and destroyed.

Crown thinning will allow more air and light to reach the inner branches and foliage, which in turn will help fight against the fungi.

Depending on the extent of the infection, excessive pruning may be necessary. If this is the case, contact a professional tree service to evaluate the situation.

Tip: To destroy the pruned portion of the tree and/or leaves, light up the fire pit or have a bonfire.

After pruning any diseased plant, shrub, or tree, make certain that your tools are sanitized before storing them or using them again. Use a 1 part bleach to 6 parts water solution to wash your tools.

Fungicides – In areas or with trees that have a history of anthracnose infections, fungicides can be used to further curtail its spreading.

Knowing the species of your tree will help you select the right fungicide. Many of them are labeled for use against specific fungi, and the fungi which cause anthracnose are typically host species specific.

How Can Anthracnose Be Prevented?

By providing plants and trees with well drained and enriched soil, nutrient-rich fertilizer, sufficient water, and annual pruning, you will help them maintain a vigorous defense system and enable them to resist diseases more handily.

If you use a sprinkler or overhead watering system, consider modifying it or replacing it with a drip system. Drip systems don’t create the splashing effect necessary to carry fungus spores from host to host.

Finally, take action against other fungal invaders and pests to prevent the tree’s health from weakening.

Tree Health and Disease Prevention

There is more to preventing tree diseases than just hosing down your trees. To stop the spread of anthracnose and prevent its return, it takes an understanding of what it is and how it spreads from host to host.

In this article, you discovered what causes anthracnose, how to correctly identify it by common characteristics, how to treat it, and the steps to prevent it.

Anthracnose, through repeated attacks, will eventually weaken your tree and allow other more invasive diseases and tree pests to attack. Treatment and prevention measures should begin as soon as this disease is positively identified.

For more signs and symptoms of a troubled tree, visit http://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com/troubled-tree-signs-symptoms/

Sources:

http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7420.html
https://extension.psu.edu/anthracnose-on-shade-trees
https://wiki.bugwood.org/HPIPM:Anthracnose_Diseases
https://www.ppws.vt.edu/content/dam/ppws_vt_edu/extension/plant-disease-clinic/files/clinic-report-2013.pdf
https://www.cabi.org/isc/datasheet/25356

Photchana Trakunsukharat, Department of Agriculture, Thailand [CC BY 3.0 au], via Wikimedia Commons

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