Month: November 2019

Trees can be Mother Nature’s most lethal weapons. They may be disguised with ordinary leaves and branches, yet armed with deadly poison. Learn about the most dangerous ones by checking out the five top poisonous trees to avoid.

1. The Manchineel Tree

The Manchineel tree has the dubious honor of holding the Guinness World Record for World’s Most Dangerous Tree.

The Manchineel has leaves that are covered in caustic sap so poisonous that the slightest skin contact could cause an eruption of agonizing blisters.

It’s dangerous to even inhale the air around the tree. A single bite of its apple-like fruit may also cause blistering, horrific pain and even death. All parts of the Manchineel are extraordinarily poisonous.

2. Sandbox Tree

The sandbox tree is considered to be one of the world’s most lethal trees. About 130 feet tall and covered with spikes that resemble a Medieval torture device, the sandbox tree’s fruit looks like cute little pumpkins.

However, once they dry into seed capsules, they turn into dangerous grenades. The capsules detonate with a loud bang and shoot the seeds at speeds up to 150 miles per hour and distances of more than 60 feet. This shrapnel can seriously injure anyone in its path.

The sandbox tree also has sap that can trigger a searing rash and can cause blindness.

3. The Suicide Tree

The suicide tree’s highly toxic seed has been used in more suicides than any other plant in the world. The seed, which is often undetected by pathologists and coroners, has also been used in countless murders. Its taste can be easily concealed from victims with sugar or spices.

Indigenous to India and Southeast Asia, the suicide tree contains a substance called cerberin, which is astonishingly toxic at low doses and stops the heart. This is why many cerberin poisonings are often written off as heart attacks.

4. Hemlock Tree

Poison hemlock is notorious for Socrates execution in 399 BC. It was widely used in ancient Greece for murder and suicide.

Every part of the hemlock tree is poisonous. Hemlock’s toxins are so powerful that people have died after eating game birds that ingested the seeds. Hemlock’s leaves have a distinctive musty smell.

Hemlock’s stems are smooth and spotted with red and purple, and their leaves resemble fern fronds. Its clusters of small, white flowers are deceptively beautiful.

5. Gympie Gympie Tree

The Gympie Gympie tree’s cute name belies its ability to inflict excruciating pain via tiny stinging hairs. Entomologist and ecologist, Marina Hurley, of the University of New South Wales, described its sting as feeling like “being burnt with hot acid and electrocuted at the same time.”

Some people have committed suicide because the pain was unbearable. The plant is so vicious that the Chemical Defense Establishment at Porton Down was allegedly studying it for use as a military weapon.

The pain from a gympie gympie tree may reoccur for months or years after being stung.

Plants sustain all of the earth’s life forms. They are beautiful and wonderful creations. However, if you’re a tree-hugger, you might just want to reconsider. Or reach out to our qualified tree service experts.

This post first appeared on https://rhtreeservice.com

Don’t let your tree die from disease and insect infestations when its bark splits. Treating your tree quickly after its bark splits is essential to its health and vigor.

We gathered information on why tree bark splits or cracks and what you can do to prevent it or treat it.

What Causes Tree Bark Splitting

Tree bark can split or crack for many reasons, and you cannot fix it. You can protect your tree while it compartmentalizes the damage and protect others by taking preventative measures.

While it is a more common occurrence on younger trees, all trees are susceptible to bark splitting when exposed to the following:

Sunscald (Southwest Winter Injury) – In the winter months, the south and southwest sides of young trees are prone to sunscald. This condition occurs on warm winter days when the bark exposed to the sun heats up substantially and is then exposed to freezing temperatures. This super-heating, followed by super-cooling, frequently causes the death of the inner-bark.

Such injuries only become visible during the spring growing season and appear as sunken or discolored bark, which splits and may fall off in patches. This damage presents an avenue for pests and diseases to attack the tree successfully.

This condition may also occur on the trunk and branches of mature trees if they were heavily pruned in the fall.

Sunscald Treatment:

When you detect that your tree is suffering from sunscald, treatment involves letting the tree work to heal itself. Damaged areas of the bark or limbs should not be filled with a sealer or painted.

Lightly trimming the wound (tracing the injury with a sharp knife) to help the tree compartmentalize the exposed area and wrapping the damaged area with a light-colored tree wrap can help accelerate the healing process.

Sunscald Prevention:

Protecting trees from sunscald is incredibly easy and inexpensive. All available measures include keeping the trunk and lower limbs either insulated or shaded in winter. The following are some of those measures:

• Plant the tree in an area shaded by structures in the late afternoon
• Use white-colored tree wraps (white reflects sunlight and prevents bark overheating)
• Plant evergreen trees or shrubs to shade the southwest side of your trees

Frost Cracks – The conditions that cause frost cracks are similar to those that cause sunscald. This condition occurs in late winter and early spring as water contained in the phloem, xylem, wood, and inner bark expands and contracts while repeatedly freezing and thawing with fluctuating temperatures.

The resulting injury to the tree appears as a crack in the bark, potentially reaching several feet in length.

Frost Crack Treatment:

Similar to sunscald, no sealant should be used to dress the resulting wound, and a light-colored tree wrap can be used to protect the wound while the tree heals itself.

Frost Crack Prevention:

Frost cracks are often the result of previous damage to the tree or off-season growth. Use the following measures to reduce the risk of frost crack injuries:

• Protect your tree trunks and branches from injury at all times
• Fertilize in late fall or early spring (do not fertilize during summer and early fall months)
• Conduct pruning activities in late fall and winter months

Like fertilizing, pruning entices a tree to grow. Spring and summer pruning may result in growth that will not have time to properly harden for winter months and become highly susceptible to frost cracks.

Environmental Conditions (Drought) – Bark splitting can also be caused by long periods of drought, followed by exceptionally wet periods of growth.

The longer trees suffer scarce water conditions, the thirstier they will get, and the less flexible they will become. When that dry period is followed by excessively wet conditions, trees (especially young trees) will over-satiate their hydraulic systems, often resulting in “bloating.” As the tree bloats, pressure builds against the hardened inner bark and may split the bark if that pressure becomes too high.

Bark Splitting Treatment:

As this condition typically occurs during the growth cycle of a tree, protecting the resulting wounds from insect infestation and disease is essential. Recommended treatment measures are identical to those for sunscald.

Bark Splitting Prevention:

During periods of drought, the following measures will help your trees maintain their elasticity and remain hydrated:

• Apply a three to six-inch layer of organic mulch from the tree’s root flare to the edge of the canopy (this covers and regulates the moisture for the root plate)
• Provide two to three deep waterings per week (deep waterings allow water to soak ten to fifteen-inches into the soil)
• Do not prune your tree after periods of drought. Allow time for them to recover fully
• Fertilize sparingly and only in late fall to prevent untimely growth

Herbicides (Glyphosate Products) – Weed killers may be doing more than killing your weeds. Bark splitting on the south and southwest face of trees from freezing and thawing patterns may be caused by the glyphosate herbicides that you are using to combat pesky weeds.

When these herbicides are applied directly to tree bark (accidentally or purposefully), applied too frequently in the vicinity of trees, or used in overly high doses on the surrounding landscape, the glyphosate in the products deteriorates the inner bark structure while eliminating the winter hardiness of the trees (especially young trees).

How to Prevent Glyphosate Damage:

• Use a herbicide containing no adjuvant (wetting agent)
• Use correct dosages (do not overspray)
• Maintain a thirty to forty-foot no-spray zone between the weeds you spray and your trees
• Do not use herbicides to treat tree suckers (the roots will carry the herbicide to the tree)
• Reduce the use of glyphosate by integrating other methods of weed removal

All herbicides are accompanied by benefits and risks. By following the instructions on the label, you can maximize the benefits while reducing the risks.

Preventing Bark Splitting

In this article, you discovered what causes tree bark to split, what you can do to treat it, and ways to prevent the condition.

By taking preventative measures to protect your trees through winter months and from harmful chemicals, your trees can mature with higher resistance to insect infestation and disease.

When you ignore signs of bark splitting or cracking, you are leaving your tree highly vulnerable to a rapid decline in its health and potential death.

Sources:
cals.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/byg/archive/sunscald2017.html
extension.usu.edu/archive/bark-splitting-caused-by-common-herbicide
plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/barksplitting.pdf
extension.tennessee.edu/publications/Documents/SP630.pdf

The post My Tree Bark is Splitting – Can I Fix it? appeared first on http://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com.

Have you discovered water sprouts growing on one or more trees in your landscape?

With their erratic growth patterns, water sprouts aren’t particularly attractive. They tend to grow outward in a variety of directions, resulting in a messy and unkempt appearance.

To make matters worse, water sprouts are highly susceptible to disease and pests.

The thin shoots originating from a tree’s trunk attract disease-causing microbes as well as wood-devouring pests.

For an attractive and healthy landscape, you should remove the water sprouts while also taking preventative measures to keep them from reappearing.

Prune Them

The most effective way to deal with water sprouts is to prune them.

Applying an herbicide may kill water sprouts, but it comes at the cost of harming the tree in the process. By pruning water sprouts, you can safely remove them without harming the tree.

When pruning water sprouts, try to cut them as close to the tree’s trunk as possible. If you only remove three-fourths of a water sprout, the remaining one-quarter may regrow.

To prevent them from regrowing, you must prune water sprouts flush with the tree’s trunk.

Water Trees Regularly

It’s important to water your trees regularly. Otherwise, new water sprouts may emerge.

Trees often develop water sprouts in response to stress.

It’s a biological defense mechanism that’s designed to help trees survive. When a tree is severely dehydrated, for example, it may develop water sprouts in an effort to stay alive.

Therefore, you should take a proactive approach towards watering the trees in your landscape.

Avoid Over-Pruning

Trees can also develop water sprouts in response to over-pruning.

If you aggressively prune a tree’s canopy, the tree may respond by developing water sprouts.

Like dehydration, over-pruning induces stress, which may prompt trees to develop one or more water sprouts on the trunk.

You can still prune trees in your landscape, but you should use caution to minimize the amount of stress it induces. A good rule of thumb to follow is to prune no more than one-third of a tree’s branches. If you prune more than one-third of a tree’s branches, it may develop water sprouts.

Beware of Trauma

Even physical trauma can cause trees to develop water sprouts.

If a tree’s trunk is injured, its biological defense mechanism may tell it to grow water sprouts. Therefore, you should use caution when working in your landscape to protect your trees from physical trauma.

Accidentally hitting a tree’s trunk with a lawnmower or weed eater could cause it to develop water sprouts.

The Woodsman Company offers tree planting, tree pruning and shrub trimming, tree removal and stump grinding as well as a tree wellness program.

If we can help with any of your tree care needs give us a call.

The post How to Deal With Water Sprouts on Trees appeared first on Woodsman Tree Service.

Stop your maple tree from needlessly dying. If caught in time, diseases that attack maples can be treated with success.

72tree.com of Alpharetta Ga, assembled the following list of diseases that affect maple trees, how to identify, treat, and prevent them.

Why do My Maple Tree Leaves Have Spots?

One of the easiest ways to detect maple tree diseases is through irregularities in shape or size, spots, and/or blemishes on the tree’s foliage.

The following diseases may cause spots to appear on your maple tree’s foliage:

Leaf Spot (Phyllosticta minima) – This fungal infection causes round spots about a quarter of an inch in diameter to appear on leaves. These spots will have a pronounced purple border and blackish dots in the center of the spot (fungal fruiting structures).

Treatment: Before fall, prune dead twigs, stems, and branches. Collect all clippings and destroy them (burning them is highly recommended) to prevent the spread of the fungus.

Have the tree evaluated to determine the extent of the infection and whether further action like using fungicides should be taken to protect your tree and surrounding landscape.

NOTE: Sanitize all equipment, including gloves and protective clothing that come in contact with an infected tree and its foliage.

Anthracnose (Aureobasidium apocryptum or Discula – Gloeosporium) – Anthracnose is a fungal infection that causes purple or brown streaks to occur alongside and between leaf veins. In some maple species, drought and heat stress can produce similar symptoms. You can confirm an anthracnose infection by locating small, brown fungal fruiting structures near the veins of affected leaves.

Treatment: The same measures and precautions for leaf spot should be used in the treatment of anthracnose.

NOTE: Anthracnose can lead to severe defoliation during a wet spring season.

Root Rot (Fomes fomentarius, Ganoderma lucidum, or Laetiporus sulfureus) – Once a fungal infection embeds itself in the trunk or the roots of a maple tree, there are three types of symptoms to watch for:

• Foliage in the entire crown or a section of it may suffer from chlorosis, wilt, die and eventually fall. This happens as the fungi cause hydraulic failure within the roots, trunk, and branches.

• Fungal fruiting structures (mushroom conks) will appear from late spring to mid-fall. For these structures to form, there must be rotting organic material within the tree.

• Large black ants known as carpenter ants will make a nest for their colony within trees that suffer from heart rot. These ants do not burrow through heartwood, they remove the tissues rotting and softened from the infection.

Treatment: Once root rot or heart rot has been confirmed, have the tree professionally removed as quickly as possible.

NOTE: The presence of carpenter ants and fungal fruiting structures only occur after significant damage has been done to the tree. When the affected tree is within striking distance of your home, places where people congregate, or other structures and vehicles, the situation should be treated as an emergency.

Galls – These spots are irregular growths or swellings that occur from a reaction to tissue feeding or egg-laying by various species of mites and insects (commonly mistaken for fungal infection).

Galls appear in various ways. Each mite or insect species produces a distinctive gall shape and can range from wart-like bumps to felt-like patches to spindle-shaped protrusions. Galls develop in the spring, and once formed, the pest remains protected within the structure. Arborists can often identify which mite or insect has infested your tree by the shape and appearance of the galls.

Treatment: Leaf galls are relatively innocuous and rarely result in any long term damage to the tree. Applications of pesticides are relatively ineffective, as the pests are protected within the gall structure.

The most effective manner of gall removal is to handpick and destroy affected foliage before exit holes form and allow the pest(s) to move on. If the presence of galls is overwhelming, hire a professional tree service to evaluate the situation and recommend a course of action.

Maple Tree Disease Prevention

Maple tree disease prevention begins with good tree care practices. The healthier your tree is, the more vigorously it can fight back against diseases and infestations.

However, when the tree’s defenses fail, here are steps to prevent the disease or infestation from infecting surrounding trees:

• Prune affected limbs (before leaf-drop)
• Burn all pruned limbs and foliage
• Always sanitize pruning equipment after use on an infected tree
• Avoid tracking soil from around infected trees to areas around uninfected trees (many fungi and other pathogens thrive in the soil). Clean boots, protective clothing, tools, and equipment before leaving an infested area
• Replant resistant species after tree removal
• Avoid planting maple trees in areas with a history of tree diseases
• Have annual tree inspections and soil testing performed to detect any issues early on.

Black Spots on Maple Leaves

In this article, you discovered how to identify diseases that cause spots on maple tree leaves, how to treat them, and how to prevent them.

Prevent the decline of your maple tree by knowing what to do when a fungus or pathogen begins showing signs of infection.

Your choice to ignore signs that your tree is diseased or in decline can result in catastrophic fungal outbreaks to your landscape, or costly damages to your property when the tree falls.

Sources:
extension.psu.edu/maple-diseases
hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/maple-diseases-insect-pests/
pnwhandbooks.org/plantdisease/host-disease/maple-acer-spp-verticillium-wilt

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/maple-tree-diseases-symptoms-treatment-prevention/

Are you thinking of planting a tree in your yard? If yes, how can storms affect it?

Research

When buying and then planting trees it’s a good idea to do some research first. Read about different tree species to get a general idea of how much sun they need, what type of soil suits them best, and how large they’ll end up growing in the long run. Try and choose trees that are well-suited to your site and its weather conditions, year-round.

Stable Structures

Look for trees that have sound structures– you want strong trees that can stand up to storms. If they look like they won’t bend in the wind, buy them! You’ll also want to invest in trees that have a balanced overall structure– rather than, say “top heavy” ones that could easily bend, break or fall should a storm hit your yard.

Stay Away From Power Lines

If there’s one great piece of advice on planting trees, it’s this: don’t plant them near power lines! By avoiding power line areas, you’re going to save yourself trouble later on… after all, what happens when wind, sleet, rain, snow and ice whip through your neighborhood? Tree branches fall on power lines and problems ensue. If you have to plant near utility lines, try and dig the hole at least 50 feet from any lines.

Stick to a Pruning Schedule

In order to help a young tree develop a sound structure as it grows, it’s important to prune the tree during its formative years. For example, say you planted a tree in November 2019… in one year, start pruning it. Make cuts to favor a central leader. Get rid of branches reaching the trunk at acute angles. Prune every year until the tree’s too tall to reach with your feet on the ground. This helps shape the tree and make it stronger for the times storms come.

Expert Tree Advice

Finally, if and when storms wreak havoc on your yard’s trees, whether young or old, and you need some expert advice, or help removing branches/dead trees, please call Big Foot Tree Service at 973-885-8000. Big Tree serves New Jersey, including Butler, Caldwell, Fairfield, Oakland and Pompton Lakes. “We work hard to get the job done the right way the first time.”

This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com

To say oak trees produce a lot of acorns would be an understatement. Depending on the species, an oak tree may drop over 10,000 acorns per year.

Assuming you have a half-dozen oak trees, you can expect about 60,000 acorns to cover your landscape during the fall and winter months.

While you can’t prevent oak trees from dropping acorns, there are ways to maintain a clean and tidy landscape during this stage of reproduction.

Rake Them Into a Pile

Perhaps the most common solution for dealing with fallen acorns is to rake them into a pile.

It’s recommended that you wait until all your oak trees have dropped most of their acorns.

Once the acorns have made their way onto your landscape, you can remove them by raking them into a large pile. Using a rake, push the acorns into the middle of your landscape, at which point you can then bag and dispose of them.

Use an Acorn Picker

Raking thousands or even tens of thousands of acorns into a pile, followed by bagging and disposing of them, is tedious. If you have a large landscape, it may take multiple days to clean up all the acorns.

An alternative solution, however, is to use an acorn picker. Also known as a nut roller, an acorn picker is a handheld tool that’s designed to automatically pick up acorns.

It consists of a long rod with a caged bucket at the bottom. As you roll the acorn picker across your landscape, it will automatically pick up acorns as well as other nuts and yard debris.

Use a Leaf Vacuum

Another easy and effective way to deal with fallen acorns is to use a leaf vacuum.

As the name suggests, leaf vacuums are designed primarily to remove fallen leaves. Using a suction vacuum, they “suck up” leaves to promote a cleaner landscape.

While you can always use a leaf vacuum to remove leaves off your landscape, you can also use one to remove fallen acorns.

Catch Them With a Tarp

Arguably, the easiest way to deal with fallen acorns is to catch them with a tarp.

Assuming the oak trees in your landscape haven’t dropped their acorns yet, you can lay a large tarp – or several tarps if necessary – directly underneath the oak trees.

When the cool weather arrives, the oak trees will drop their acorns on the underlying tarp. After all the acorns have been dropped, you can pick up the tarp to dispose of the acorns.

The Woodsman Company offers tree planting, tree pruning and shrub trimming, tree removal and stump grinding as well as a tree wellness program.

If we can help with any of your tree care needs give us a call at 512-846-2535 or 512-940-0799 or

Request a Quote / Schedule an Appointment

The post How to Deal With Fallen Acorns in Your Landscape appeared first on Woodsman Tree Service.

How much water do you typically use in your garden?

Regardless of species or variety, all plants require water. Water allows plants to absorb nutrients from the soil while also assisting in the conversion of sunlight to energy – a process known as photosynthesis.

If your garden is responsible for sky-high water bills, though, you should consider taking a proactive approach towards minimizing the amount of water it uses.

Here are 5 ways to do just that.

#1) Water During the Evening

Watering your garden during the evening – or even at night – can prove beneficial.

If you water your garden during the morning or midday, sunlight will cause a substantial amount of it to evaporate. Some of the water will still soak into the soil, but much of it will evaporate into the air.

Watering your garden during the evening, on the other hand, minimizes evaporation so that more water will soak into the soil.

#2) Choose Drought-Tolerant Plants

While it’s true that all plants require water, some need water less than others.

A few popular garden plants that require a minimal amount of water include blackfoot daisy, chocolate daisy, evergreen sumac and tripsacum.

By choosing drought-tolerant plants such as these, you won’t have to use as much water in your garden.

#3) Build a Drainage System

Another way to conserve water in your garden is to build a drainage system.

If water collects in a specific area of your landscape, perhaps you can use a French drain to guide the water to your garden.

Of course, you should use caution to ensure that water doesn’t remain stagnant in your garden.

Otherwise, it may create waterlogged soil that’s mushy and even harmful to your plants.

#4) Add Mulch

A little mulch can go a long way in conserving water in your garden.

When adding mulch to the topsoil, it will “hold” some of the water. It’s highly absorbent, so when it rains, some of the water will soak into the mulch rather than evaporating into the air.

You don’t have to use a lot of mulch, just a small 2-inch layer should suffice.

#5) Install a Drip Irrigation System

A drip irrigation system can help you conserve water in your garden.

Drip irrigation systems work by slowly releasing water into the soil. As a result, they don’t suffer from evaporation problems associated with traditional irrigation and watering systems.

In fact, research shows that drip irrigation systems use about 30% to 50% less water, making them ideal for gardens and landscapes.

The Woodsman Company offers tree planting, tree pruning and shrub trimming, tree removal and stump grinding as well as a tree wellness program.

If we can help with any of your tree care needs give us a call at 512-846-2535 or 512-940-0799 or

Request a Quote / Schedule an Appointment

The post 5 Ways to Conserve Water in Your Garden appeared first on Woodsman Tree Service.

Is your landscape cluttered with tree stumps?

Whether they are from softwood or hardwood trees, you should consider removing them.

While many homeowners turn a blind eye to tree stumps, believing they cause little or no harm, this isn’t always the case.

On the contrary, there are several reasons why you should remove tree stumps in your landscape.

#1) Tree Stumps Can Resprout

Even if a tree stump looks dead, it can still resprout.

In an effort to stay alive, a tree stump may grow new sprouts around its base. These new sprouts typically won’t mature into full-sized trees. Rather, they grow around the stump to create a messy and unkempt appearance.

#2) Tree Stumps Attract Pests

Another reason to remove tree stumps in your landscape is to protect against pests.

Assuming the stump is dead, it will likely begin to rot and decay. When this occurs, it will attract pests, the most notable being termites.

These termites may then make their way into your home, potentially causing thousands of dollars in structural damage.

#3) Tree Stumps Can Interfere With Lawn Maintenance

You’ll have an easier time mowing and maintaining your lawn if all the tree stumps are removed.

When mowing your lawn, you won’t have to worry about running into a tree stump. As a result, you can mow your lawn more quickly and efficiently.

#4) Tree Stumps Pose a Safety Hazard

Did you know that tree stumps can pose a safety hazard?

Short tree stumps are particularly problematic because they are difficult to spot. If someone is running on your lawn, they could accidentally trip and fall on a tree stump.

#5) Tree Stumps Consume Space

Of course, you’ll have more space by removing the tree stumps from your landscape.

Depending on the size of your landscape, removing the stump or stumps could open the doors to a world of landscaping applications. You could use the space to create a compost pile, build a flowerbed or simply plant a new tree.

#6) Tree Stumps Hurt Your Landscape’s Aesthetics

You can improve the aesthetics of your landscape by removing the tree stumps.

Let’s face it, tree stumps aren’t attractive. They are an eyesore that, when left unchecked, will lower the overall aesthetics of your landscape.

To create an attractive and cohesive landscape, you should consider removing the tree stumps.

The Woodsman Company offers tree planting, tree pruning and shrub trimming, tree removal and stump grinding as well as a tree wellness program.

If we can help with any of your tree care needs give us a call at 512-846-2535 or 512-940-0799 or

Request a Quote / Schedule an Appointment

The post 6 Reasons to Remove Tree Stumps in Your Landscape appeared first on Woodsman Tree Service.

Pine trees are widespread across the U.S. where many types are natives. But the U.S is by no means the only country where pine trees are available in quantity and in a wide variety of types. Pine trees are conifers.

Asia is home to some pine trees, such as the Chir, <i>Pinus roxburghii</i>, pine. Austria claims the Black pine, <i>Pinus nigra</i>) as one of its most important trees. A pine tree is an evergreen conifer and is labeled in the genus Pinus.

<strong><i>Pinaceae</i> Family</strong>

The pine family is called <i>Pinaceae</i>. Pinus is the only genus in the subfamily of Pinoideae. World-wide plant lists compiled by Missouri Botanical Gardens and the Royal Botanic Gardens, currently list 126 verified names of pines in addition to 35 unresolved species.

Pine trees are widespread ornamental landscape specimens. Many were and are used for lumber. The Eastern White Pine, Pinus strobus, is among the most common and well-known. It originates in the U.S. The White Pine is a rapid grower with a long life-span.

<strong>Other Pines Found Around the World</strong>

Aleppo Pinus,<i>Halepensis pine</i>, Found throughout the Mediterranean area, naturalized as an ornamental in California and southern Australia. Twisted, poor quality wood exists today due to over-forestation.

Lodgepole Pine, <i>Pinus contorta</i>, grows near North American oceans and in forests on dry mountains. It may also grow in bogs.

Mugo Pine, <i>Pinus mugo</i>, is a cousin to the white pine, a miniaturized version that often has a rounded shape. There are several varieties, often they are creeping shrubs.

Bristlecone pine, <i>Pinus aristata</i>, A long-lived species, including <i>Pinus longaeva</i>, among the most long-lasting forms of life on the planet. Some of the species are older than 5000 years.

Monterey pine, <i>Pinus radiata</i>, native to the West coast of the U.S. with a thick trunk and branches, it reaches heights of 80 to 100 feet. It is best suited to warmer locations.

Sugar Pine, <i>Pinus lambertiana</i>, the tallest and most spreading of the pines, with the longest cones of all the pines. Also native to Ca.

Coulter Pine, <i>Pinus coulteri</i>, A California native, growing more to the south, but growing as far north as the San Francisco bay.

Single leaf Pinyon Pine, <i>Pinus monophyla</i>. This type extends from Eastern and Southern California to Idaho and Utah. The only pine that bears a single needle in each fascicle.

Ponderosa pine, <i>Pinus ponderosa</i>, Bark turns from black to yellow with age. A large, unbroken swath of the trees rung from California, through Arizona to New Mexico. Widely distributed species
.
Canary Island Pine <i>Pinus canariensis</i>, Large, durable and sturdy, this pine has a parasol-like canopy. Valuable, aromatic lumber from this pine. Doesn’t grow in cold areas. A native of Spain. Call our expert tree service company to check what pine tree you have.

This post first appeared on https://rhtreeservice.com

Finding the Best Stump Solutions in Memphis

Once you’ve decided to have a Memphis tree service remove a tree from your yard, you’ll need to decide what to do about the stump that’s left behind. It’s easy to forget about this extra step because you’re focussed on the tree itself, but the stump that’s left behind can be just as problematic as the tree was. At Red’s Tree Service, we recommend having a professional remove or grind down the tree stump so it’s no longer a hazard or an eyesore. We’ll help you determine whether stump removal vs. stump grinding will  work best for you. 

What Happens if You Leave Your Stump 

There are quite a few problems that can arise from leaving a stump in place after having a tree removed. If you’re dealing with some or even all of these issues, talk to a Red’s Tree Service team member about the best options for you. 

Stumps are an eyesore. 

The most basic reason to remove or grind a tree stump is the fact that they just don’t look good in your yard. Everything else about your landscaping could be beautiful, but a rouge tree stump will distract from all of the good things. This is especially a problem if you’re trying to sell your home. A distracting tree stump may leave a bad taste in a potential buyer’s mouth. 

Stumps are dangerous. 

Tree stumps pose a threat to children (or adults) who play or run in your yard. Low cut tree stumps are more dangerous because it’s more likely that grass or weeds will grow up around it and make it harder to see and easier to trip over. If a neighbor trips over it and hurts themselves, you may even be liable for their injuries. 

Stumps can be dangerous to your lawn equipment too. If you forget it’s there and run over it with your lawnmower, it could get damaged or break beyond repair. 

Stumps can cause new tree growth. 

If your stump is left in your yard with the roots intact, new trees can start to sprout, and you’ll be back where you started. Except this time, it will be even harder to remove the trees and the stump because they’ve strengthened and grown in more complicated ways. The small trees that pop up can also steal nutrients from the soil and the plants around them. 

Stumps attract bugs and pests. 

As the stump starts to rot, it can attract beetles, termites, ants, and other wood-boring pests. You may not mind them in your yard, but they can eventually spread to your home.

If you are experiencing any of these issues, contact your Memphis stump removal experts, Red’s Tree Service. 

Stump Grinding Pros and Cons 

When it comes to getting a stump out of your way, you can grind the stump down so it’s below the surface of the ground, or you can remove the stump and its roots entirely. There are pros and cons to both options. 

Here are some of the pros of stump grinding: 

• Faster to remove – the process takes a couple of hours instead of several days. 
• Not labor-intensive – Stump grinding is quick and easy, and the process is done entirely with a machine. The grinder reduced the stump to mulch, which can be used in other places in your yard. We’ll grind the stump until it is 1 to 12 inches below the soil level and, and the roots are left to decay naturally. 
• No gaping-hole after construction – Since stump grinding doesn’t remove the roots, it only leaves a slight dip that will eventually blend in with your lawn. 
• Environmentally friendly – Stump grinding requires no harmful chemicals and creates no waste. 
• Stump can be used for mulching – save money on mulch by reusing the remains of your stump. 
• Lower cost than stump removal – stump grinding, on average, cost around $100-400

Of course, this isn’t a perfect solution, and there are some cons involved. 

• Possibility of eventual sprout – while the root is still living, there is a slight possibility that it will sprout new tree growth. 
• Root decay under the surface
• You can’t replant in the same spot

Stump Removal Pros and Cons 

The other option is professional stump removal from Red’s Tree Service in Memphis. This process will permanently fix the issue of an unsightly stump. Some of the pros are: 

• Complete elimination of stump and roots – no part of the stump is left on your property, so there’s no chance of decay or new growth. 
• Replanting is easy – There’s nothing stopping you from planting a healthy tree in the spot the stump was if you so choose. 

There are several cons to consider as well. 

• Time-intensive – This process can take several days. Depending on the situation, we may drill holes in the stump and pour a chemical that will soften the soil and break down the stump. We’ll leave it overnight, and bring our equipment back the next day to pull the stump and it’s roots out of the ground. It can take a while to do this safely and with the least damage to your yard. 
• More difficult to remove – Since we’re removing everything, it’s a much more difficult and involved process. 
• Gaping hole after removal – There’s no way to avoid a large hole in your yard. You’ll need a plan to fill it after we’re done. 
• Not environmentally friendly – This method sometimes involves harmful chemicals, and can also harm plant life and grass growing in the vicinity. It also creates waste in the form of the stump, and we’ll need to determine the best way to dispose of it. 

Always Trust the Experts

There are a lot of dangers to attempting either method on your own. It’s always best to let the professionals at Red’s Tree Service in Memphis do the hard work. If you try to do it yourself, you risk exposure to harmful chemicals and pollutants, injury, breaking equipment, and causing even more damage to your lawn.

If you have a stump that needs to be removed or are already planning on having a tree removed, talk to the professionals at Red’s Tree Service about your tree stump removal options. Contact us for more information and a quote.

This post first appeared on https://redstreeservice.com