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Prevent your trees from being weakened by suckers and watersprouts stealing their water and nutrients. Knowing how and when to remove tree suckers will help you keep your tree healthy and thriving.

72tree.com gathered the following information about tree sucker and water sprout removal, the damages they cause trees, and how to properly control them.

Removing Tree Suckers

Allowing suckers to remain on your tree will only divert water and nutrients from the vegetative and fruiting wood that needs to grow strong and healthy. Suckers should be removed when they appear, and they will grow very quickly.

Suckers grow from the base of the trunk or from roots and will need to be removed manually. Ideally, they should be pruned back to the point where they emerge from a root or base of the tree. Consider the following:

• Using a hand trowel, expose the sucker to the area where it emerged from the root.

• Snip or cut it off at the base with a sharp pair of garden shears (leave the collar, where the tree sucker meets the tree, to help speed wound recovery)

• Cover the cut area (with soil) and allow it to heal

• Repeat this process for any other suckers

Avoid mowing these growths. Mowing activities can cause abnormal growth, and damaged growth can become a vector for disease and infestation.

Tip: Leaving a stub can make the problem worse by causing multiple shoots to form. You will need to dig to get to where suckers emerge from roots.

Note: Once suckers start developing on a tree, they will usually continue to occur for the rest of that tree’s life and will need to be removed regularly.

Removing Watersprouts

Watersprouts like suckers are fast-growing and tend to grow vertically, either from the trunk or from an existing branch. They, too, divert water and nutrients from the tree, block sunlight and air circulation. Here’s how to remove them:

• Identify watersprouts as being unnecessary growth to be pruned away

• Use pruning shears to cut them from the tree

• Cut them back to their point of emergence from the trunk/branch (again, leaving the collar, where the watersprout meets the tree, to accelerate wound recovery)

• Allow these wounds to heal like other pruning wounds

Tip: leaving a stub when removing watersprouts can make the problem worse by causing multiple shoots to form.

What Causes Tree Suckers and Watersprouts

When trees are stressed or have suffered trauma, they often respond by producing upright shoots called water sprouts and suckers. Here are some of the occurrences that can cause them to grow:

• Root Damage
• Root Loss
• Storm Damage
• Branch Loss
• Topping
• Over/Improper Pruning
• Pruning Suckers
• Disease
• Drought
• Infestation
• Mower/Mechanical Damage

Note: Suckers and watersprouts can be a sign of a tree’s aging. Many trees will sucker as they grow old and start to decay or even die.

Water sprouts and suckers grow from dormant buds in the bark and/or roots and are flimsily attached to trees unless allowed to grow for many seasons.

Tip: Once you detect a problem with suckers and watersprouts, hire an arborist to evaluate the health of your tree(s).

Tree Sucker and Watersprout Control

There are products containing Napthalene Acetic Acid (NAA) labeled to control sprouts on certain trees. Research must still be done on their effectiveness with landscape trees.

Products similar to Bonide’s “Sucker Punch” have a water-based paraffin wax emulsion, so once it is applied, it will last for up to 6 months.

Similarly, some herbicides are effective at controlling and suppressing suckers but are not recommended for all plant or tree varieties. Likewise, herbicides applied to suckers can severely harm the tree. Such products should be applied by a certified arborist.

One of the best ways to prevent water sprouts and suckers on your trees is to keep them as healthy as possible with proper care and pruning. If your trees already have multiple sprouts, do your best to figure out (or call in a professional) to find out what is causing the stress and strategize to correct it.

Tree Suckers and Watersprouts

In this article, you discovered information about tree suckers and watersprouts, what damages they can do to your trees, and how to properly remove them.

Knowing why suckers and watersprouts grow on trees will help you determine if there is more severe damage occurring within the tree or what steps should be taken to increase the tree’s vigor.

Ignoring a problem with watersprouts and suckers can make a troubled tree even further from recovery. As time passes, your tree’s water and nutrients can become severely depleted, leading to more tree problems, infections, infestations, and eventual death.

Sources:
extension.unh.edu/blog/can-water-sprouts-and-suckers-be-prevented-trees
newswire.caes.uga.edu/story/5514/Root-Suckers.html
hyg.ipm.illinois.edu/article.php?id=993
hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/cleaning.shtml

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/controlling-removing-tree-suckers/

Here at Red’s Tree Service, we have an expert team to provide tree trimming and selective pruning across Memphis and the Mid-South. Many times, we’re called in to fix someone’s well-meaning attempt at trimming trees. Though we commend a self-starting, can-do attitude, our expert team has seen more than their fair share of tree trimming mistakes from well-meaning homeowners. To help you get the most out of trimming your trees, we’ve put together our list of the 6 biggest mistakes homeowners make when trimming their trees, and what you can do to avoid them! Keep reading to learn more! 

Using dull tools

Just as the most dangerous knife is a dull one, dull tools can be dangerous for you and harmful to the tree. This is the most common mistake we see homeowners make, and it’s also one of the easiest to avoid. It’s as simple as keeping your tools in sharp, trim-ready condition so they can cut through branches and the like with ease. 

Not only can dull tools cause serious injuries to you and those around you, but they can harm the tree as well. Trimming a tree with dull blades creates rough wounds that your tree will have a harder time healing. You may accidentally damage the branch collar if you have to work hard and make several “chops” to cut through a branch.

If you plan on doing your own tree trimming, invest in a good pair of truly sharp shears, and have them sharpened once a year to keep them working well.

Trimming the wrong branches

Proper trimming takes a lot more than just snipping away random branches to change the shape of the tree. If you don’t pay close attention to and plan ahead for which branches you remove, you will weaken the tree, and its shape could become less appealing over time.

Start the trimming process by removing any dead or dying branches. Then remove branches that join the limb or trunk at weak, v-shaped angles. Try to remove thinner, smaller branches, leaving the thicker, more established branches to continue growing. 

Disregarding sanitation

As with most living things, trees are susceptible to a number of different infectious fungi and bacteria. These pathogens are easily spread from tree to tree during pruning if you do not properly sanitize your shears. 

Wipe your shears down with rubbing alcohol between trees, and let them dry completely before you begin trimming another tree.

Proper cleanup is another key component of good sanitation. Don’t let your trimmed branches and leaves sit on the ground beneath the tree, as they could become a harboring point for fungi and insects (and could cause injury to an unsuspecting pedestrian or cyclist). Dispose of the debris in a pile far away from any trees.

Trimming at the wrong time of year

There’s never really a bad time to remove dead, damaged, or diseased branches, but the required trimming frequency will vary across plant species. Spring-flowering trees should be trimmed immediately after their blooming cycle, usually during late June, while summer-flowering trees should be trimmed in the winter and spring months. 

Generally, most trees will benefit most from pruning in mid- to late winter. That’s because pruning during dormant periods encourages new growth as soon as the weather begins to warm up. The lack of leaves around this time also allows you to easily identify branches and limbs requiring removal.

While pruning trees in the summer isn’t a popular option, it can sometimes be beneficial if performed with caution. You should never prune in the fall, however. Pruning trees in the fall can introduce disease, and if you have a warm autumn, new growth can be seriously harmed when the temperatures drop again.

In general, pruning your trees in the spring can limit their bloom potential for the year. It can also leave cuts that leave trees more vulnerable to insect infestation or disease. That said, some tree pruning can safely be done in the spring! The rule of thumb is to not remove more than 10% of any tree’s branches. When it comes to spring pruning, your goal should be one of two things: pruning for safety OR minimal pruning for aesthetics. 

Of course, there are exceptions to every rule! If you’ve just planted a new tree, any broken, defective, or damaged limbs should be removed. Just remember that in general, pruning trees in the spring can leave them more vulnerable to infestation and diseases. 

Not watching for potential property damage

Homeowners should regularly inspect their trees for potentially hazardous developments, including hanging dead limbs or sagging branches. However, be sure to also inspect the area around the hazards, to make sure that your freshly trimmed tree branch doesn’t smash your neighbor’s car or poke a hole in your roof. If property damage is a risk, it’s best to contact a qualified arborist like Red’s Tree Service to remove them as quickly as possible. By taking good care and working with a professional tree management service, you can extend the life of the tree without risking your property.

Sometimes, dead limbs and problem areas can be identified by evaluating the color of the leaves. If leaves on a specific limb are brown, dry, or dead, that’s a good indication that that limb should be preemptively removed. Whenever possible, take preventive measures to anticipate the failure of a healthy tree.

Keeping an eye on how your trees are growing is a great way to head off problems before they develop. Watching for crossed or rubbing branches, false crowns, drooping limbs, and so on will give you a good idea of when trimming is necessary. 

Overlooking structural pruning

Homeowners often overlook the benefits of structural pruning for young trees. Trees evolved in forests where they tend to grow straight and lose lower branches due to competition for light. Many species tend to develop multiple stems/leaders that are more prone to failure when they’re planted in a landscape full of sun. Weak attachments that fail later in the life of the plant are due to the lower branches growing at the same rate as the terminal leader. 

Trimming and pruning trees when they’re young and growing quickly is critical to ensuring a strong framework for future growth. We recommend focusing on maintaining a single dominant stem unless multiple stem clumps are specifically desired. Try to keep branch sizes proportional to the stem diameter at their point of attachment, and be sure to remove some branches to ensure adequate spacing between permanent scaffold limbs as the tree grows. 

Trust the professionals at Red’s Tree Service

Certain species of trees will require more precise timing and different approaches for proper trimming, and having an experienced arborist like us take care of your trimming needs helps keep you, your property, and your trees safe. 

By using a licensed tree service professional like Red’s, you’re ensuring that a correct pruning and trimming job will be done. This will create and maintain strong tree structures that will look beautiful for years to come. If you have trees you’d like us to inspect or are overdue for a trim, get in touch with us today for a FREE estimate! 

This post first appeared on https://redstreeservice.com

Prevent repeated pecan phylloxera infestations from severely damaging or killing your pecan trees. Knowing how to identify and control phylloxera will help you stop this insect from slowly debilitating your tree and take measures to effectively control it.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered the following information about pecan phylloxera, the damage it causes, how to identify it, and what can be done to control it.

What Is Pecan Phylloxera

Pecan phylloxera is an insect that can cause significant damage if ignored or treated incorrectly in pecan orchards. Phylloxera can attack pecan tree shoots, leaves, and fruit. Due to the life cycle of phylloxera, timing is very vital to controlling the infestation. Once you see that galls have developed, it is too late to stop the infestation in the current season. The following are three species of phylloxera and the galls they form:

Pecan Phylloxera (P. devastatrix Pergande) – This insect species produces large, green galls on stems, twigs, petioles, midribs, and nuts. Winged phylloxera emerge from these galls.

Pecan Leaf Phylloxera (P. notabilis Pergande) – This species causes small galls to develop next to the midribs or veins of leaflets. The galls are oval to spherical, open on the ventral surface of the leaf, are typically evenly green on the top, and often appear reddish beneath. Winged phylloxera also emerge from these galls.

Southern pecan leaf phylloxera (P. russellae Stoetzel) – This phylloxera species causes the formation of small galls on leaf surfaces between the veins. The galls are round and somewhat flat, open on the ventral surface. The opening will typically contain dense, short, white hairs. Phylloxera emerging from these galls are wingless.

Pecan Phylloxera Damages

Pecan phylloxera in isolated cases does not cause any significant damage to its host tree. However, large and/or repeated infestations can result in the following:

• General wilting and/or drooping
• Chlorosis of affected foliage
• Dieback of affected branches
• Early leaf drop
• Weakened/Declining tree health
• Causes increased susceptibility to secondary infestations and diseases

Note: For trees with previous disease and infestation incidences (including repeated and heavy phylloxera infestations), significant phylloxera infestations can ultimately lead to or participate in the host tree’s death.

How To Identify Pecan Phylloxera

Pecan phylloxera are tiny insects resembling aphids (without the cornicles) that range from cream to a pale yellow color. Phylloxera have sucking mouthparts and are 1/10 to 1/5 inch long. Their feeding stimulates the tree to produce galls on leaves, stems, and nuts where wounded. The phylloxera reproduce inside the galls. All phylloxera species overwinter in the tree or orchard and feed on new growth in the spring.

Pecan Phylloxera Lifecycle

The three species of phylloxera follow somewhat identical lifecycles. Observe the following:

Eggs – Phylloxera overwinter as eggs in sheltered spots like bark on the tree trunk or branches, within opened/spent galls, underneath the carcasses of dead phylloxera, etc.

Stem Mothers – The young that hatch from overwintered eggs are referred to as “stem mothers” and appear around the same time new foliage and growth begin to emerge.

Gall Formation – As the stem mothers hatch, they migrate to emerging tissue to begin feeding. This feeding stimulates the host tree to develop galls that enclose the insect within a few days.

Nymphs – Inside the galls, stem mothers mature, lay their eggs, and die. Shortly after that, nymphs hatch from the eggs and feed until the galls split open in late spring or early summer, at which time new adults emerge.

The following are how each of the species continue their reproductive cycles:

Pecan Phylloxera (P. devastatrix Pergande) – Winged, asexual adults emerge from the galls and migrate to other parts of the same or nearby tree where they deposit small eggs that hatch into male insects and larger eggs that hatch into female insects. Once mated, the females die with a fertilized egg still inside them (protected for the winter). This species produces one generation of galls per year.

Pecan Leaf Phylloxera (P. notabilis Pergande) – Winged, sexual adults emerge from the galls resulting from the stem mother. These adults mate and the females locate a protected place to lay a single egg (which also hatch asexually) before they die. This species crawls to new areas of foliage on the same tree and forms a second and, sometimes, a third generation of galls in a single season.

Southern pecan leaf phylloxera (P. russellae Stoetzel) – These produce wingless, sexual adults in the galls resulting from the stem mother. The females will crawl to protected/secluded places to lay their single eggs. These eggs are typically not entirely laid by the female, remaining attached to her dead body. This species only produces one generation of galls per year.

Watch this video to see phylloxera insects inside a gall.

Pecan Phylloxera Control Measures

If any of the phylloxera species are present, insecticide applications should be made to your tree(s) between bud swelling and early leaf expansion (when the leaves have begun to unfurl). If galls are found, another insecticide application should be made the following year. Consider the following when acquiring an insecticide for phylloxera control:

• Acquire adequate equipment to thoroughly distribute (spray) the insecticide on infested specimens
• Select an insecticide containing a growth or reproductive inhibitor
• Use insecticides containing carbaryl as an active ingredient; it is one of the most readily available phylloxera treatments for homeowner applications
• Solutions containing neem oil are also highly effective, killing small soft-bodied insects like phylloxera on contact
• Imidacloprid (made to mimic nicotine, which is lethal to insects) is also a good, systemic choice for phylloxera control.
• Learn the recipe for how to make your own insecticidal soap to combat pests – toddsmariettatreeservices.com/insecticidal-soap-recipe-control-tree-pests/

You can reduce or eliminate the potential for such infestations by planting resistant cultivars and promoting their vigorous, healthy growth.

Tip: Insecticide applications must be made prior to gall formation. Once the insects are enclosed in the galls, reliable control is no longer possible.

Watch this video for more on pecan phylloxera

Disclaimer: This website provides general information only about a chemical or class of chemical products; it does not and cannot provide detailed safety information specific to any particular consumer product, it is not intended to be comprehensive or complete, and it should not be relied upon to ensure safe and appropriate use of any particular insect control product. Read product labels for warnings, advisories, and instructions.

Southern Pecan Leaf Phylloxera

In this article, you discovered information about the several pecan phylloxera species, the damage they can cause, ways to identify them, and control methods.

Knowing when to take action against phylloxera is as crucial as how to do it. Enacting well-informed and timed control measures will help you keep phylloxera infestations under control.

Ignoring or incorrectly treating a phylloxera infestation can allow its rapid proliferation, decline in overall tree health, and eventual tree death.

Sources:
hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/southern-pecan-leaf-phylloxera/
entoweb.okstate.edu/ddd/insects/phylloxera.htm
extension.msstate.edu/sites/default/files/newsletter/bugwise-newsletter/2016/2016%20BugWise%20No%202%20-%20Pecan%20Phylloxera.pdf

Prevent overcrowding and killing your smaller yard with overstory trees. Knowing which trees remain small through maturity will help you create a balanced, long-lived ecosystem for your landscape.

72tree.com assembled the following 9 tree species selections and information to help you select trees that match the size of your landscape and leave room for their roots to properly develop.

1. Japanese Maple

Few trees show off their splendor like the Japanese maple in its fall colors. There are numerous ways to use this little tree in your yard. You can plant it as a specimen tree (in a partly shaded spot) or use it as a shade or privacy tree along your property line.

Scientific Name – Acer palmatum
USDA Hardiness Zone – 5 – 8
Soil Requirements – moist, well-drained soil
Optimal Sun Exposure – Full sun to part shade
Color Varieties – burgundy foliage turning red in fall

2. Crape Myrtle

Crepe myrtle species are a favorite among southern gardeners and roadway landscapers. (Crepe myrtle is the preferred name in the south). The draw for this plant is that it blooms at a time when most trees are not blooming. Healthy trees will be covered with blooms that last for months during the hottest part of the summer.
Crepe myrtles are deciduous, grow quickly, and will often grow in their multi-stemmed form.

Scientific Name – Lagerstroemia indica
USDA Hardiness Zone – 7 – 9
Soil Requirements – Will grow in nearly all soil types
Optimal Sun Exposure – Full sun to part shade
Color Varieties – white, pink, red, lavender

3. Redbud

Desired for its striking pink or white flower display in spring, redbud is an easy-to-care-for small tree with heart-shaped leaves that turn golden-yellow in fall.

Scientific Name – Cercis canadensis
USDA Hardiness Zone – 5 – 9
Soil Requirements – requires well-drained soil
Optimal Sun Exposure – Full sun to part shade
Color Varieties – species ranges from golden-yellow and purple foliage and white to pink flowers

4. Flowering (ornamental) Peach

The Bonfire Flowering Peach tree is a small ornamental tree with a bold personality. This tree is undeniable when its branches are peppered with fragrant pink blossoms in the spring!” Once the flowers fade, large burgundy, drooping leaves grow in, stealing the show. You won’t get edible peaches from this species, but you will get a fragrant and impressive display of flowers and foliage that will meet your need for drama in the landscape!

Scientific Name – Prunus persica ‘Bonfire’
USDA Hardiness Zone – 5 – 8
Soil Requirements – Prefers moist, acidic soils
Optimal Sun Exposure – Full sun exposure
Color Varieties – dark red leaves and double pink-red flowers

5. Witch Hazel

Witch hazel trees have highly desirable shaggy, citrus-scented blossoms in a rich yellow, orange, and red shades. Some species bloom in late winter before the leaves open, and others show off in the fall. These are small trees, averaging 10 to 20 feet tall, and are low maintenance. Prune in the early spring if you need to remove damaged portions or shape the plant. 

Scientific Name – Hamamelis
USDA Hardiness Zone – 3 – 8
Soil Requirements – Average or medium moisture and well-draining
Optimal Sun Exposure – Full sun to part shade
Color Varieties – Orange, red, and yellow

6. Crabapple

Plant a colorful display to your landscape with crabapples. There’s a wide range of species available that bear white, pink, and/or flowers. The ‘Prairifire’ species has dark pink flowers, reddish-purple foliage, and is disease resistant. The ‘Centurion’ variety has pink flowers, an upright shape, and great disease resistance. Crabapples are known for producing orange, gold, red, or burgundy fruit.

Scientific Name – Malus
USDA Hardiness Zone – 4 – 8
Soil Requirements – medium moisture, well-drained soil
Optimal Sun Exposure – Full sun exposure
Color Varieties – Flowers in shades of white, pink, and red with orange, gold, red, or burgundy fruit

7. Magnolia Randy

If you had space for one flowering tree to plant in your tiny yard, you may find some difficulty choosing, but Magnolia ‘Randy’ would be an excellent one. The beauty of this Magnolia was famously developed as part of the little girl series of hybrid Magnolias developed by the National Arboretum. All bred to be small deciduous low-branched trees growing only to 15 feet tall with oval habits and later spring blooming. ‘Randy’ will give you reddish-purple flowers on the outside and white on the inside. Then there’s the star-shaped flower that might pop up randomly in the middle of the summer for a second bloom.

This species is part of the Little Girl series (‘Ann,’ ‘Betty,’ ‘Jane,’ ‘Judy,’ ‘Pinkie,’ ‘Randy,’ ‘Ricki,’ and ‘Susan’) of hybrid magnolias developed at the National Arboretum in the mid-1950s by Francis DeVos and William Kosar.

Scientific Name – Magnolia ‘Randy’
USDA Hardiness Zone – 4 – 8
Soil Requirements – organically rich, neutral to slightly acidic
Optimal Sun Exposure – Full sun to part shade
Color Varieties – Dark Pink Blooms and green foliage

8. Dragon Lady Holly

Multiple holly species, cultivars, and varieties could be selected for a small space, but the Dragon Lady Holly is an excellent choice for a few reasons. It is widely available, where other dwarf cultivars or uncommon varieties may require special ordering. The Dragon Lady cultivar is a female plant that needs a male for pollination to produce berries. Finally, its conical form requires very little maintenance, and it only grows to heights of about 15 feet or so.  If you want a holly in your small space, this species makes sense.

Scientific Name – Ilex aquipernyi
USDA Hardiness Zone – 6 – 8
Soil Requirements – Acidic, moist, well-drained soils
Optimal Sun Exposure – Full sun exposure
Color Varieties – Green with Bright Red Berries

9. Powder Puff

Whether growing it as a large shrub or prune it into a small tree, powder puff will treat you with its fluffy and fragrant red, pink, or white summer flowers. It’s a heat-loving, drought-resistant variety specialized for the warmest areas of California, Texas, and Florida.

Scientific Name – Calliandra haematocephala
USDA Hardiness Zone – 9 – 11
Soil Requirements – Moist, well-drained, fertile soil
Optimal Sun Exposure – Full sun exposure
Color Varieties – red, pink, or white flowers

Small Trees for Tiny Yards

In this article, you discovered 9 tree species for small landscapes that help you avoid overcrowding and root competition.

Planting appropriately sized trees for your tiny yard allows you to develop a hardy and healthy ecosystem for your plants, trees, and shrubs without any of them choking out the other.

When you plant trees that end up dwarfing other plant life, you are robbing your landscape of vitally needed sunlight, soil nutrition, and physical space for all your plants, shrubs, and trees to flourish.

Sources:
extension.unh.edu/blog/how-should-i-plant-and-care-japanese-maple
plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/lagerstroemia-indica/
selectree.calpoly.edu/tree-detail/calliandra-haematocephala
plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/ilex-x-aquipernyi/
landscapeplants.oregonstate.edu/plants/magnolia-randy
web.extension.illinois.edu/treeselector/detail_plant.cfm?PlantID=195
courses.missouristate.edu/pbtrewatha/Bonfire_Flowering_Peach.htm
uky.edu/hort/Common-Witchhazel

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/9-small-trees-for-landscaping-smaller-yards/

When is the last time you pruned a tree? Pruning involves removing specific branches or stems off a tree in order to benefit it as a whole. By removing dead, damaged or diseased branches, for instance, you’re helping to prevent insects and other organisms from entering the tree and making it sick. In many ways, you can think of pruning a tree like a person gets a haircut every once in a while. Without getting a haircut, a person would look a bit odd, don’t you think? Trees, when on a person’s property, are much the same way– every now and then they could use some pruning, which is really just a fancy way of saying upkeep and shaping, much like a haircut…or in this case, a branch cut.

Light pruning of a tree can be done any time of the year, especially if your purpose is to remove dead wood. Generally, however, pruning is best done in the winter or the summer.

During the winter, a tree is dormant, as if it were asleep for the season. After the coldest part of winter passes, then it’s a good time to do some pruning. Don’t worry if a tree “bleeds,” whereas its sap begins to flow– you’re not harming the tree if you see sap.

Summer is a good time to prune in order to direct the growth of branches. In other words, prune for “corrective purposes” getting rid of defective limbs and/or ones that hang down too low and get in your way.

Do you want to enhance flowering for a particular tree? The best time to prune for that is right after their springtime blooms fade away. If they bloom with flowers in mid-to-late summer, then prune them for flowering purposes in winter or early spring.

Fall is the season when you should not prune trees. During this season, decay fungi love to spread their spores all around, and you don’t want them ending up in the healing wounds of a cut tree, right?

If you have specific questions about tree pruning, call Big Foot Tree Service at 973-885-8000.

The post Blog first appeared on Big Foot Tree Service. This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com

Nobody wants termites and other insects infesting their home or the surrounding yard. If you have dead trees or plants on your property, it’s important to have them removed by a professional like Big Foot Tree Service. Termites thrive on and are attracted to dead trees.

Termites have mouths that tear at pieces of woody material. They’re hungry buggers, known as the “silent destroyers” who can cause a lot of costly damage to people’s homes and property. Termites look different than carpenter ants– they have no “waist,” but, rather, a rather rectangular body without any constriction. With straight, beaded antennae and four wings of equal size and shape, termites are the kind of bugs that you don’t want to see in your vicinity.

What can you do to deter termites from your place? First, do your best to eliminate areas where moisture gathers, such as near leaky pipes and AC units. Next, keep house vents clear and open. Finally, get rid of excessive plant cover and wood mulch close to your home.

If you have firewood, lumber or even paper in or near your home, these things attract termites since they’re food sources. Should you notice mud tubes on your home’s exterior walls, wooden beams, and/or stumps, those could indicate termites. If you tap a piece of wood and it sounds hollow, chances are termites have already enjoyed many dinners there.

Basically, if there’s wet, decaying wood anywhere in or near your home, termites will do their best to establish a colony there. A stump, for instance, becomes an easy nesting area for various termites.

Big Foot Tree Service can remove stumps and the root crown of felled trees. If needed, the area can be chemically treated by a licensed pest control operator, too.

Do you have an unattractive, termite-inviting stump in your yard? Whether it’s just one, or several, the team at Big Foot Tree Service can remove stumps with care and respect for your property. Located in Wayne, New Jersey, you can schedule an appointment with Big Foot Tree Service by calling 973-885-8000. Big Foot Tree Service serves homeowners throughout Passaic and Bergen Counties.

The post Blog first appeared on Big Foot Tree Service. This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com

Trimming your trees is key to keeping them healthy, happy, and beautiful all year round! It helps remove dead wood that saps your tree’s energy reserves, improves air and nutrient circulation, and keeps it a more manageable size. But when is the best time of year to trim a regional tree? The expert team at Red’s Tree Service is here to help by sharing the best times and techniques for trimming trees across the Mid-South. 

When should I trim my regional trees?

The Mid-South is known for its lush green canopy of native trees, bushes, and shrubs that flourish during the summer months. As fall and winter approach, temperatures drop, the greenery fades, and trimming season looms! Most trees in the Mid-South will respond best when trimmed in late winter. 

Tennessee and the Mid-South are zone 7 areas, meaning that the first frost will happen around November 15 and the last one about April 15. Within this rough date range, most plants will enter a period of dormancy and pause their growth so they can weather the cold. If you prune during their active growing seasons, trees might not be able to fully heal their wounds before the cold forces them into hibernation; pruning in late winter gives trees the chance to start healing as soon as seasons change.

During their dormancy, and throughout winter, most trees do not have leaves, which helps expose problematic issues such as crossing branches or problematic growth problems. You’ll be able to get at these problem areas easier, too, without branches or leaves getting in your way. 

All species of trees in the Mid-South will generally respond well to tree trimming during the winter, but trimming during the spring and summer may in some cases be appropriate. Although the sap is rising in the tree during this time period, trimming during early spring allows for easy identification of problematic branches before the tree has fully leafed out. Additionally, for tree species that flower in mid to late summer, early spring trimming is a great way to encourage the tree to produce more flower buds on the remaining branches.

Trimming your trees in the winter also encourages new growth in the spring, but note that it’s best to do it after the coldest part of the season to avoid leaving the tree vulnerable to extreme cold snaps.

Best practices for keeping your trees trimmed and healthy

Now that we’ve established when to trim your trees, let’s take a look at some best practices for doing so! 

First, get rid of anything that could cause damage to your property or others. Homeowners should regularly inspect their trees for potentially hazardous developments, including hanging dead limbs or sagging branches. These branches could fall and damage cars, houses, or other limbs, and it’s best to contact a qualified arborist like Red’s Tree Service to remove them as quickly as possible. By taking good care and working with a professional tree management service, you can extend the life of the tree and protect your property.

Sometimes, dead limbs and problem areas can be identified by evaluating the color of the leaves. If leaves on a specific limb are brown, dry, or dead, that’s a good indication that that limb should be removed. Whenever possible, take preventive measures to anticipate the failure of a healthy tree.

Keeping an eye on how your trees are growing is a great way to head off problems before they develop. Watching for crossed or rubbing branches, false crowns, drooping limbs, and so on will give you a good idea of when pruning is necessary. 

Finally, consider the species of the tree you’re pruning. Different species will best respond differently to trimming at different times and with different techniques. For example, flowering and fruiting trees are best pruned in winter, so they’ll be primed to start healing as the seasons change. Trimming these trees at the wrong time can compromise their flower and fruit growth, and can cause irregular or unappealing growth later on.

Consult the experts

Don’t put your property, your trees, or yourself at risk. If a pruning is beyond what you feel comfortable attempting, call in our experienced team at Red’s Tree Services. Using a licensed tree service professional like Red’s will ensure a correct pruning and trimming job will be done. This will help create and maintain strong tree structures that will look beautiful and prevent any safety hazards.

Certain species of trees require more precise timing and different approaches for proper pruning and trimming. Having an experienced arborist on hand will not only keep you and your trees safe, but will produce the best possible results. Whether you’re looking for guidance on DIY tree trimming, or a quote on professional assistance with winter pruning, get in touch with us today! Red’s Tree Services are always here to help keep your property safe and your trees healthy.

This post first appeared on https://redstreeservice.com

Root pruning can prevent your tree from dying when it comes time to transplant it. Knowing the ins and outs of root pruning will help you smoothly relocate your tree.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered the following information about what root pruning is, why you should root prune, how to do it, and when it is necessary.

What Is Root Pruning

Root pruning is the practice of encouraging tree root growth (before transplanting) by severing existing roots at the tree’s drip line – the ground equivalent of the outer extremity of the tree’s crown.

This practice encourages new feeder root growth within the root ball to be transplanted along with its tree. Smaller root balls, with multiple feeder roots, help the tree acclimate faster to its new environment and soil.

Established trees have roots that reach out far beyond the tree’s drip line. These longer roots are used for anchoring and support. Most small feeder roots, which deliver water, food, and nutrients to the tree, will likely be found on these far-reaching roots at a greater distance from the tree.

It is nearly impossible, in most cases, to include all of these roots in the tree’s root ball. Yet, the more roots a tree has when it is transplanted, the faster and better it will adjust to its new location. Thus, root pruning is performed to encourage root growth before being transplanted.

Watch this video to see how root pruning can be accomplished without cutting roots.

Why Root Pruning Is Necessary

When a tree is unearthed for transplanting, the portion of the roots taken (the root ball) is only the circumference of the drip line, often less. Since the tree will be dependent on this root ball for most of its nutrients and water, it will need feeder roots within the root ball to continue sustaining itself during transplant shock. To encourage feeder root growth, closer to and within the drip line, the long anchor roots are pruned off.

How To Prune Roots

Root pruning is the severing of tree roots around the tree’s entire drip line. This can be accomplished by slicing down with a sharp spade. Consider the following steps:

1. Dig a trench around the outer edge of the tree’s drip line
2. Cut any roots you encounter with a sharp spade or shovel edge
3. Keep going until you have dug down far enough to sever the majority of the roots
4. Once you are satisfied with your work, fill in the trench with the soil you dug out
5. Replace the soil as it was, with the topsoil on top
6. Finish the pruning job by deep watering the tree

Note: The larger the tree’s root ball, the more feeder roots it will have for a successful transplant. However, larger root balls are increasingly heavy. Transplanting an established tree is not a job for one person, and you should consider calling a professional tree service for assistance.

When To Root Prune

Transplanting a tree isn’t a project that can be done on a whim without severely crippling or killing your tree. It’s going to take time, observe the following:

• If your tree will be moved in the fall, prune the tree’s roots in the spring; if the tree will be transplanted in the spring, prune the tree’s roots in early fall. This window of 6-7 months is enough time for new feeder root development.
• When transplant day arrives, dig out the trench and extract the root ball. Look closely and find that your previous pruning activities caused many new feeder roots to grow within the root ball (right where you need them to be).

Note: Root pruning, besides stressing your tree, leaves multiple open wounds that can fall victim to opportunistic pathogens, fungi, and pests.

Tip: Avoid root pruning activities if your other trees or plant life have recently been affected by disease or insect infestation. A professional tree service should be called in to evaluate and treat any disease or insect problems before starting a root pruning project.

More Reasons To Root Prune

Moving or transplanting a tree are not the only reasons to root prune. Root pruning also serves to:

1. Maintain the size of “dwarf” trees. When dwarf trees start to grow beyond their desired height or crown size, root pruning will shock the tree, causing it to divert its energy to root growth.
2. Encourage fruit trees to bloom. The tree thinks it is being attacked and sets a stress crop to propagate itself.
3. Slow the growth of potted plants that have outgrown their container. If you don’t want to move it to a larger container, root pruning and replanting (in the same container) with fresh soil should do the trick.
4. Remove surface roots that disrupt or invade your lawn (continuous damage to these roots may cause disease or infestation to weaken and eventually kill your tree).

For more on how to stop, remove, and kill invasive roots, visit toddsmariettatreeservices.com/tree-root-killing-removal-cutting/

Root Pruning

In this article, you discovered information about root pruning, why it should be done, how you can safely do it, and when it should be done.

Proper root pruning allows you to safely transplant an established tree without causing it to undergo severe shock.

Failure to root prune before moving an established tree leaves it without necessary feeder roots, starving it of water and nutrients, and can lead to its rapid decline and death.

Sources:
hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/root-prune-guidelines.shtml
hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/transplanting-established-trees-shrubs/
extension.tennessee.edu/publications/Documents/sp571.pdf
extension.psu.edu/transplanting-or-moving-trees-and-shrubs-in-the-landscape

Avoid having to consume pesticide filled fruits, or being limited to what you can grow because you don’t live in a tropical region. Knowing how to grow fruit trees in your home will help you eliminate unhealthy chemical consumption and enable the enjoyment of growing your own fruit.

72tree.com assembled the following growing and care information about five fruit tree species you can successfully grow indoors.

Indoor Fruit Tree Species

The following 5 fruit tree species adapt well to indoor growth without requiring any over-the-top or intensive care requirements:

1. Dwarf Meyer Lemon Trees (Citrus × meyeri)

Dwarf Meyer lemon trees are one of the most popular fruit trees to grow indoors. Like most citrus trees, this species is self-pollinating, dispensing with the need for a second tree to accomplish fertilization.

Fruit – Meyer lemon trees typically bear fruit after 2 or three years, depending on their growing environment. While the trees are self-pollinating, you can increase the crop yield by using a small paintbrush to gently spread the pollen from flower to flower when the tree is in bloom.

Soil Requirements – The most appropriate soil for growing healthy Meyer lemon trees is slightly acidic (between 5.5 and 6.5) and loam (2 parts sand to 2 parts silt to 1 part clay).

Watering – Keep the soil slightly moist without letting it dry out completely. (When watering, note that citrus trees prefer a tepid, lukewarm temperature to freezing cold.)

• Due to the salt content of your tap water, you could inadvertently end up causing marginal leaf scorch or reducing your tree’s ability to absorb water
• Citrus trees prefer ambient to lukewarm water vs. cold or freezing water
• Citrus trees like elevated amounts of moisture in the air, up to 50 percent humidity (typically the upper threshold for a home’s humidity)
• You can simulate this environment by regularly spritzing them with filtered water from a spray bottle

Growing Location – Citrus tree species need sunlight. In fact, 8 to 12 hours of it daily.

• Put your tree in the sunniest window you have, even better if it’s a room with double exposure
• If you have any outdoor space, a few weeks in summer, fresh air will serve your tree well

Note: The same care tips that apply to #1 – Dwarf Meyer Lemons also apply to #2 – Dwarf Key Limes and #3 – Dwarf Orange Trees.

2. Dwarf Key Lime Trees (Citrus aurantifolia)

Dwarf key lime trees are another popular choice for indoor fruit trees (convenient for those who enjoy making key lime pie). This species typically grows from 2 to 4-feet tall, is self-pollinating, and bears fruit within 1 to 3 years.

3. Dwarf Orange Trees (Various genus Citrus)

Several sweet orange varieties, including navel oranges(Citrus sinensis), Valencia oranges, Mandarin oranges (Citrus reticulata), and Blood oranges (Citrus sinensis ‘Moro’), can be found on dwarf rootstocks for indoor cultivation.

• These trees will grow from 6 to 12-feet tall
• They are self-pollinating, and will take anywhere from 2 to 4 years before bearing fruit
• This is significant, as orange tree varieties grown from seed can take up to 15 years before bearing fruit.

Observe these additional care tips for dwarf Meyer lemon, Key lime, and orange trees kept indoors:

• Poor drainage can kill citrus trees. They are not tolerant of standing water in any way
• Overwatering can also kill your citrus trees
• Use terra cotta pots that darken when the soil is moist and deep water your trees when the soil is dry, allowing ample saucer space for all of the excess water to run off
• Light to severe chlorosis, drooping leaves, and falling leaves are indications of a nitrogen deficiency (fertilize to compensate)
• During winter months, mist your citrus trees daily or invest in a dedicated humidifier
• Do not expose citrus trees to cold drafts. Opening a door or window for them on a cold day can stress your citrus trees (and all your other plants)
• Stressed plants are susceptible to diseases and pests

#4. Dwarf Banana Tree (Musa acuminata)

Banana trees are self-pollinating, dispensing with the need for a second tree for pollination.

Fruit – It will take 9 to 15 months before the tree starts flowering, then an additional two to six months before the bananas are ready to be picked.

Soil Requirements – An indoor dwarf banana plant needs rich, humus-like, and well-draining soil. Fertilize it monthly to keep it flourishing.

Watering – They like lots of water due to their enormous leaves, but you’ll want to let the soil dry out thoroughly between waterings. The leaves can be misted to simulate a humid climate.

Growing Location – Banana trees, like most tropical plants, need an abundance of sunlight and humidity.

• Your banana tree should get full sun for 8-12 hours per day
• A southern exposure window is ideal
• Rotate your banana plant often so that all sides are well-exposed to light

Note: Dwarf varieties, such as Dwarf Lady Finger, Super Dwarf Cavendish, or Dwarf Red are especially well suited for containers and can produce fruit much sooner than other varieties, sometimes only 8 to 10 months after planting.

#5. Dwarf Everbearing Mulberry Tree (Morus nigra)

Self-pollinating dwarf Everbearing Mulberry varieties (Morus Alba pendula, Morus serrata, and Morus australis, among others) are the easiest to grow indoors. Spring to summer blooms have these trees producing fruit continually (late spring into summer). 

Fruit – Mulberry tree fruit (looks like a blackberry but slightly smaller) should be picked as soon as it ripens. This tree’s fruit supply ripens over time rather than all at once.

• Starting your tree from seeds may not be the best way to go
• It can take 4 to 10 years for your tree to mature enough to bear fruit
• However, if you take a cutting from a mature mulberry tree, the cutting will be the same age (genetically) as the parent tree
• Using cuttings, you could have berries growing in the first season.

Tip: For cuttings, remove any berries that start to grow the first season. They take energy away from the production of healthy roots. Then, once planted and established, you can harvest ripened berries.

Soil Requirements – Regular, well-drained potting soil will work just fine for this species. Mulberry trees are slow-growing and thrive in spacious pots.

Watering – Mulberry trees should receive the equivalent of 1 inch of rainwater each week for best growth and fruit production. Fruit may drop prematurely if irrigation is insufficient.

Growing Location – The more direct sunlight your mulberry plant gets, the more robust it will grow and the larger berry crop it will produce.

• Mulberries should get around 6 hours of light daily.

Indoor Fruit Trees

While searching for the perfect indoor fruit tree, there are a few things to keep in mind. Consider the following before getting your tree:

Do I have an area (by a window in my home) that gets at least 6 to 8 hrs of sunlight per day?

If yes, this lit location is where you’ll want to grow your fruit trees.

If not, your indoor fruit trees will grow best in the natural light you can give them compensated with a light fixture containing a full-spectrum bulb. These bulbs produce a balance of cool and warm light, replicating the natural solar spectrum.

Do I have a problem with elevated humidity or mold growth in my home?

If yes to either or both, use a dehumidifier to rein in your home’s humidity. Hire a professional mold removal service to clear mold from your home. This will provide healthier air for its occupants and minimize possible mold growth on your indoor plants and trees.

Note: The ideal relative humidity for health and comfort in your home is somewhere between 30-50%. Growing plants and trees indoors will potentially increase your home’s relative humidity.

Are my other indoor plants disease/pest-free?

Before investing in an indoor fruit tree, verify that your existing indoor plants are disease and pest-free. Some common diseases in houseplants include:

• Powdery Mildew
• Root Rot
• Sooty Mold
• Rust

Some common houseplant pests include:

• Thrips
• Aphids
• Spider Mites
• Scale Insects
• Mealybugs
• Fungus Gnats

Tip: Natural pesticides like neem oil or Diatomaceous Earth should be used to eradicate pests and disease from your houseplants before introducing a fruit tree in your home’s ecosystem.

Planting Indoor Fruit Trees Outdoors

When you decide to give your indoor fruit tree the boot, here’s how to plant it outdoors without killing it:

• Acclimate the tree to outside weather by leaving it outside in increasing intervals throughout spring, summer, and mid-fall (bring it in for the winter and plant it outside the following spring).
• Don’t replant it. Leave it in its pot and protect it from severe weather conditions (especially cold weather).

Note: It may not be possible to plant your indoor tree outside. If winter temperatures in your area drop to or below freezing (32°F), your tree may die if left exposed.

Tip: When you have questions about planting your indoor trees outside, or they present seemingly inexplicable signs of poor health, hire an ISA certified arborist to evaluate them and offer professional guidance.

Growing Indoor Fruit Trees

In this article, you discovered growing and care information for five indoor fruit tree species and when you can expect them to bear fruit.

Growing your own fruit trees indoors gives you a cleaner food option when they bear fruit, cleaner ambient air, and a fantastic conversation piece for friends and family.

Being unable to grow your own fruit leaves you limited and subject to consuming foods exposed to harmful chemicals.

Sources:
extension.umn.edu/house-plants/growing-citrus-indoors
edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/mg243
extension.illinois.edu/blogs/rhonda-ferrees-ilriverhort/2018-09-04-go-tropical-ornamental-bananas
extension.iastate.edu/news/yard-and-garden-growing-fruit-trees

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/5-best-indoor-fruit-trees/

Tree stumps are unsightly. They make an otherwise nicely kept yard look like someone forgot to get rid of something that causes numerous problems. An old stump makes a yard look forgotten.

These days, people have high standards when it comes to the exteriors of their homes and their landscaping, especially in suburban areas where people want to “keep up with the Joneses.” Tree stumps in certain neighborhoods signal neglect, and the social norms almost demand that if no one else has a stump in their front yard, you shouldn’t either—it’s really all about what you and your neighbors think about stumps and how they make the street look.

Stumps are generally thought of as ugly nuisances.

First of all, people can accidentally trip and fall, especially in the dark, when walking in a yard and happening upon a tree stump underfoot. Next, try mowing around them all the time—not an easy thing to do! Inevitably, tall weeds are going to grow up around the stump, looking really awkward in your yard. Finally, tree stumps attract critters and bugs who want to live in them. If you’re the type of person who is trying to get rid of ants, wasps, snakes and mice from your house and/or property, get the stump(s) removed.

Big Foot Tree Service regularly removes tree stumps from yards and lots in New Jersey. It wouldn’t make much sense to remove stumps in the winter when the ground is frozen and it’s snowing outside, but summertime is a fine time to call Big Foot Tree Service, have them come take a look at what you’ve got in your yard, provide an estimate for the stump removal, and, ideally, get rid of the stump(s)!

The post Blog first appeared on Big Foot Tree Service. This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com