How is Your Tree Fighting Global Warming

Did you know that your tree is part of a global carbon sequestration system that sustains breathable air for the human race? In fact, without trees, life on earth as we know it would cease to exist.

72tree.com gathered essential information about the role of carbon sinks and how keeping your tree healthy plays a vital role in combating global warming and sustaining breathable air.

What Are Carbon Sinks

A carbon sink is a natural system that absorbs, uses, and stores carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. Technically, you could say that anything that absorbs more carbon than it releases is a carbon sink.

Earth’s principal carbon sinks are:

Trees and Plants – Trees and plants use carbon dioxide captured from the atmosphere for their photosynthesis (food making) process.

Oceans – The oceans play a significant role in storing carbon dioxide. Some marine life will capture the gas for photosynthesis, while some of the gas simply dissolves in the water.

Soil – As plant life dies and decomposes, a portion of its captured carbon dioxide is transferred to the soil.

Nearly a quarter of the carbon dioxide humans have released into the atmosphere has been absorbed by trees and plants. As atmospheric carbon dioxide levels increase, so increases carbon fertilization.

Carbon Fertilization and Tree Growth

As atmospheric carbon dioxide levels increase, more is available to convert to plant matter through photosynthesis, and trees can grow more. This increased growth is referred to as carbon fertilization.

Because of carbon fertilization, trees will continue to grow larger and for more extended periods, as long as their necessity for water, sunlight, and nutrients (primarily nitrogen) is met. If a tree is missing just one of these necessities, it will not grow regardless of the abundance of the others.

Tree Planting and Forest Conservation

Tree planting and forest conservation are vital activities towards the reduction of mankind’s carbon footprint, as trees are remarkably efficient at carbon sequestration, they provide up to 30% of the global action required to stop climate change.

In fact, a single healthy tree is capable of releasing around 6,000 pounds of breathable oxygen over 50 years. That’s about the oxygen consumption of 4 people per year.

With 3.04 trillion trees worldwide and a world population of 7.53 billion, trees alone produce approximately 4,845 pounds of oxygen per person per year. While this number seems reasonably sufficient, carbon emissions are on the rise around the globe, leaving the ominous question of “How long can our trees sustain our oxygen requirements?”

Along with rising carbon emissions, trees and forests, do not always act as carbon sinks. In fact, massive carbon releases by trees may occur at any time when triggered by:

• Deforestation
• Tree and plant decay
• Forest fires
• Wildfires
• Volcanic eruptions

Suffice it to say that as long as carbon emissions continue rising, and the global tree population is threatened, the delicate balance of carbon sequestration and oxygen production can easily slide in the wrong direction.

Tree and forest conservation is one of our best weapons to fight global warming, and it starts in your yard. Keep your trees healthy by making sure they:

• Are planted in the right place
• Have the best soil type for the species
• Have sufficient water
• Are fertilized before their growth period
• Are seasonally pruned
• Are properly mulched
• Inspected annually for disease and infestation

Learn more about planting trees at 72tree.com/tree-planting-guide/

When living near or visiting a forest, you can participate in its conservation by:

• Camping in only designated areas
• Removing or disposing of your trash properly
• Building fires in designated fire-pits
• Fully extinguishing fires before leaving
• Disposing of matches and cigarette butts properly
• Not discharging fireworks
• Reporting suspicious activities
• Notifying park rangers of dead or dying trees
• Avoiding all activities that can physically harm trees

Learn more about forest conservation and preventing wildfires at redcross.org/get-help/how-to-prepare-for-emergencies/types-of-emergencies/wildfire/how-to-prevent-wildfires.html

Your Tree, Climate Change, and Global Warming

It may be hard to imagine, but by keeping your trees healthy, you are actively pushing back against climate change and global warming. The human race owes its breathable air to the global population of trees, as they sequester carbon dioxide and release the oxygen we breathe.

In this article, you discovered the function and importance of carbon sinks, how your tree plays a significant role in global oxygen production, and how healthy trees and forests help to stop climate change and reverse global warming.

By keeping your trees healthy, you are actively participating in the reduction of atmospheric carbon dioxide, thus slowing climate change and global warming.

Sources:
https://earthobservatory.nasa.gov/features/CarbonCycle/page5.php
https://www.americanforests.org/blog/forests-carbon-sinks/
https://www.nasa.gov/feature/goddard/2016/carbon-dioxide-fertilization-greening-earth
https://www.conservation.org/stories/Pages/14-forest-conservation-facts-you-need-to-know.aspx
https://www.npr.org/2015/12/26/461095807/tree-counter-is-astonished-by-how-many-trees-there-are

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/how-is-your-tree-fighting-global-warming/

What is the foundation of a healthy tree? If you want a tree to have a healthy trunk with strong roots and branches, then the foundation for that is… regular tree pruning by a knowledgeable and experienced tree care provider. Big Foot Tree Service has plenty of tree experts who can prune the trees on your property so they’ll stay healthy and live a long time. All too often, people ignore their trees only to find that they’re unhealthy and even dying. “Preventative maintenance” can save tree owners a lot of money and headaches.

The Telltale Signs of a Healthy Tree

What are the key signs of healthy trees? They’re the ones with just one main tree trunk that’s straight and stable. Healthy trees produce new yearly growth– and this occurs on both the trunk and the branches. Speaking of branches, they should look and be “full.” In other words, when it’s time for them to have leaves, they should have abundant leaves. They shouldn’t be broken or dead.

Lots of leaves– lots of healthy leaves– is important. That shows the tree is doing well. Leaves should be the “right” color for the season. They shouldn’t be irregular shapes or stunted. There shouldn’t be bare patches. Also, look for bark that’s not loose or peeling (except on trees where that’s normal like birches and maples). When you look at a healthy tree trunk and its bark, you won’t see fungi, cracks, large holes or dead branches.

In order to keep a tree healthy, it’s a good idea to have a professional look at it on an annual basis– kind of like a doctor’s check-up. Experts from Big Foot Tree Service can come to your property and assess the health of your trees. Pruning services are affordable.

Did you know Big Foot Tree Service covers several areas throughout Northern New Jersey? We cover Bergen County, Essex County and Passaic County, just to give you an idea of our geographic reach.

Please call 973-885-8000; we can provide free estimates. Our company cares about the health of trees. We do our best to ensure trees live long and healthy lives. That said, if you have dead trees on your New Jersey property and need them removed, we can do that too.

This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com

If your landscape suffers from poor or nonexistent drainage, you should consider building a drain.

When rainwater accumulates in your landscape, it can drown plants while eroding the soil in the process. By building a drain, you’ll encourage rainwater to flow down and away from your landscape, thereby preventing problems such as these.

There are two primary types of drainage systems, however: French drains and trench drains.

What Is a Trench Drain?

Also known as a slot drain or strip drain, a trench drain is a type of water-drainage system that’s characterized by the use of a narrow channel.

To construct a trench drain, you must first dig a narrow channel to divert rainwater away from your landscape. Of course, the channel must be dug at a downhill angle so that gravity will naturally guide the rainwater.

After digging the channel – about 3 to 5 inches deep should suffice – you’ll need to place a drain liner in it. The top of the drain liner should feature a perforated surface.

When it rains, water will seep past the liner’s perforated surface and into the trench drain, at which point it will flow away from your landscape.

What Is a French Drain?

Also known as a blind drain or rock drain, a French drain is a type of water-drainage system that’s characterized by the use of a gravel- or rock-filled channel in which a perforated pipe is placed.

French drains have been around for centuries, and in that time, little has changed regarding their design.

To construct a French drain, you’ll need to dig a channel, followed by placing a perforated pipe inside the newly dug channel.

You can then fill the channel and cover the perforated pipe with gravel or rocks. The gravel or rocks will act as a filter, ensuring that only rainwater makes its way into the perforated pipe.

Choosing Between a Trench Drain and French Drain

You can use either a trench drain or French drain to improve the runoff of your landscape. Of those two water-drainage systems, however, most homeowners prefer the French drain.

When compared to trench drains, French drains are easier to construct and, more importantly, are less likely to clog with debris.

Since the top of a French drain is covered with gravel or rocks, only rainwater will enter the pipe. As a result, you don’t have to worry about pine straw, leaves or other debris clogging it.

The Woodsman Company offers tree planting, tree pruning and shrub trimming, tree removal and stump grinding as well as a tree wellness program.

If we can help with any of your tree care needs give us a call at 512-846-2535 or 512-940-0799 or

Request a Quote / Schedule an Appointment

The post French Drain vs Trench Drain: Which Is Right for My Landscape? appeared first on Woodsman Tree Service.

Tree suckers are a nuisance for many homeowners and green thumbs. Also known as basal shoots, they consist of new shoots that emerge from the base of a tree’s trunk.

They are called “tree suckers” because they literally suck and consume valuable water and nutrients, restricting the main tree’s growth.

Once tree suckers begin growing, the tree will receive less water and fewer nutrients, resulting in increased stress and potentially death.

You can control tree suckers in your landscape, however, by following a few simple steps.

Don’t Harm the Tree’s Roots

When mowing your lawn and tending to your landscape, use caution not to harm the tree’s roots. Trees often grow suckers in response to root stress.

If you accidentally hit a tree’s exposed roots mowing the grass or tilling the soil, you may discover new suckers around the base of its trunk in the following weeks.

Thankfully, you can prevent this from happening by using caution not to strike or otherwise harm the tree’s roots.

Water Around the Tree’s Trunk

Some people believe that watering a tree will leave it susceptible to suckers, but this isn’t the case.

Watering a tree can actually deter suckers by encouraging healthy growth and development (of the tree, not the suckers). When trees are dehydrated, they’ll become stressed and, therefore, more likely to develop suckers.

To discourage suckers from growing on your trees, make sure they well-hydrated.

Prune New Tree Suckers

You won’t always be able to prevent tree suckers from emerging.

When you discover new suckers, though, you should prune them as soon as possible to keep them in check. The longer you wait to remove suckers, the more harm they’ll cause on the tree.

To remove tree suckers, use a pair of clean and sharp gardening shears.

You want to trim the suckers as close to the tree’s trunk as possible without cutting the trunk. Keep in mind that suckers may regrow, so you’ll need to check the tree in the following days and months.

Watch the Trunk When Grafting

If you’re planning on grafting a tree, you should closely monitor the trunk to ensure that no suckers emerge.

Of course, grafting involves splicing one tree’s roots onto the roots of another tree. When grafts fail, the over-stressed tree may sprout suckers.

But as previously mentioned, you can easily remove suckers by pruning them with a pair of gardening shears.

The Woodsman Company offers tree planting, tree pruning and shrub trimming, tree removal and stump grinding as well as a tree wellness program.

If we can help with any of your tree care needs give us a call at 512-846-2535 or 512-940-0799 or

Request a Quote / Schedule an Appointment

The post How to Control Tree Suckers in Your Landscape appeared first on Woodsman Tree Service.

The Southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora) is an essential tree for yards and landscapes in hardiness zones 6 through 10, for its size, year-round beauty, and its enormous creamy white flowers.

72tree.com gathered essential information on the Southern magnolia tree, its characteristics, incredible flowers and their blooming season.

Magnolia Tree Information

Magnolia grandiflora, with its full luxurious look, is a favorite specimen around the world. The following are some of its features:

Family – Magnoliaceae

Height – 50 to 80 feet at maturity with some reaching 90 feet.

Width – The base of a fully mature magnolia can reach 40 feet in diameter.

Foliage – Mature leaves are dark glossy green and densely grow up to 8 inches in length by 5 inches wide.

DBH – The diameter at breast height of a fully mature magnolia tree can reach 24 to 36 inches.

Crown Width – This species grows in a pyramidal shape, its mid and lower sections can reach a diameter of 30 to 40 feet and tapers upward to a pointed or rounded crown.

Leaf Drop – While Magnolia grandiflora is an evergreen species, it will drop light foliage throughout the year.

Blooms – The flowers of Magnolia grandiflora are creamy white and can reach up to 12 inches in diameter.

Pests – While magnolia trees are generally free of significant pest problems, some varieties of scale, aphids, mealybugs, spider mites, and leafminers present potential infestations.

Disease – There are several fungi which can cause leaf spots, and in some cases, may lead to heart rot. However, for the most part, fungi are unable to cause any significant damage to adult magnolias. In the event of severe leaf drop or branch dieback, an arborist should be called to evaluate the situation and recommend a course of action.

This magnificent species, native to the southeastern United States, has been planted in cities all over the world. It’s no wonder that Magnolia grandiflora became an instant hit when it was taken to Europe in the 1700s.

Due to its adaptability to many climates and soil types, and its unique beauty, this species has become one of the most widely planted ornamental evergreen trees in the world.

To learn more about the USDA Hardiness Zone Map, read Trees, Shrubs, and the USDA Hardiness Zone Map at 72tree.com/trees-shrubs-usda-hardiness-zone-map/

Magnolia Tree Flower

The majestic Southern magnolia tree has an incredibly dominating presence from mid-summer through the end of winter. However, in early to mid spring, this specimen displays its true glory and reason for its worldwide admiration.

When the Southern magnolia blooms, it blooms at the tips of twigs all over with dozens of white lemon citronella-scented flowers open at a time. Healthy mature magnolias bloom consecutively until mid-summer, and these enormous flowers range in size, reaching up to 12 inches in diameter and lasting up to 7 days from bloom to wilt.

The Magnoliaceae family is among the eldest of tree families in existence. Due to this, we get to witness two pre-evolutionary aspects of flowers:

Tepals, not Petals – In magnolia flowers, the petals are fused with the sepals (sepals are typically green and function as protection for the flower while in bud); therefore, the correct terminology for these parts is tepals. The tepals of the magnolia flower are usually arranged in two whorls of 3 to 6 tepals each.

No Nectar Here – That’s correct, magnolia flowers do not produce nectar. These flowers attract pollinating beetles with their fragrant and sugary secretions.

The beautiful magnolia flower is the state flower of Mississippi and Louisiana, while the tree itself is the state tree of Mississippi. It should come as no surprise that the largest Southern magnolia is located in Smith County, Mississippi, measuring more than 122 feet tall with a DBH greater than 6 feet.

The Flowering Magnolia Grandiflora

If you live in the South and your landscape doesn’t include a Southern Magnolia, you’re missing out on one of the oldest and most beautiful blooming evergreen trees in existence.

In this article, you discovered a wealth of information about the Southern magnolia tree and its beautiful flowers.

If your property lies within hardiness zones 6 through 10, and you have yet to plant a magnolia tree, you should consider doing so for the beauty of the tree and the elegance of its sensational flowers.

Sources:
https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/all/magnolia-grandiflora/
https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/magnolia/
https://www.arborday.org/trees/treeguide/TreeDetail.cfm?ItemID=863
https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/st371

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/southern-magnolia-tree-flower/

Do you see big black ants crawling all over your tree? While carpenter ants need to be controlled, they are the least of your worries and indicators of potentially bigger problems.

Carpenter ants nesting in a tree are a sign of a more pressing problem that, if not addressed, will kill your tree, leaving the ants to move on to a new home.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered information on how to eliminate carpenter ants from your tree and what an infestation means.

How to Get Rid of Carpenter Ants in a Tree

When carpenter ants invade a tree, there is a risk that they will also invade nearby structures. Within a typical carpenter ant colony, foragers continuously seek new sources of nutrition or a suitably sheltered location to either move the colony to or form satellite colonies.

The best time for controlling carpenter ants is when activity is at its height during the spring and summer months. During the winter, they will hibernate unless located near a constant source of heat.

When attempting to eliminate a carpenter ant infestation, you are searching for the following:

Parent Colony – The parent colony contains an egg-laying queen, workers, and numerous broods. These colonies can be found in:

• Rotting tree stumps
• Injured or dying trees
• Within the walls or wooden features of a structure frequently exposed to moisture

As ants are capable of foraging and traveling great distances from a parent colony, your search for either a parent or satellite colony should be as broad as possible.

Satellite Colonies – A satellite colony may contain pupae, mature larvae, and workers.

Common places to find satellite colonies are:

• Within the rotted wood of old window frames.
• Shingles or wood siding exposed to constant moisture.
• Nearby trees with declining health or previous stressors.

Controlling an infestation of ants inside a tree is a difficult task which must be done to prevent the creation of satellite colonies and the invasion of surrounding structures.

Dust insecticides that contain pyrethroids or carbaryl designated for use on landscape trees are suggested for control:

• Apply the dust directly into and around the nest cavity.
• Watch for foraging ants and dust along the path they travel.
• Annual retreatment may be necessary, as carpenter ants are difficult to control in trees.

Liquid insecticides that contain a sugar based bait and borax as the killing agent are among the most effective long-term solutions available. For DIY or homemade insecticidal soap recipes, see toddsmariettatreeservices.com/insecticidal-soap-recipe-control-tree-pests/ then below outlines how to apply the solution:

• Spray the insecticide in and around the nest cavity.
• Follow the ants along their trail to find other holes, or entryways to satellite colonies and spray them.
• This is a slow acting insecticide which allows the ants to carry the poison back to the nest and feed it to others.

In either case, never disturb the nest before applying the dust or liquid insecticides. When ants get “spooked” or sense danger, they erratically and quickly leave their nest, will avoid consuming the poison, and may prompt some to stray off and begin another colony.

This picture shows a nest cavity before applying an insecticide.

This picture shows the same nest cavity immediately after applying an insecticide.

NOTE: Ants leave a pheromone trail behind them for others to follow and for them to return to their colony. By dusting or spraying along their path, you are increasing your chances for successful control.

What a Carpenter Ant Infestation Means

Carpenter ants are opportunistic in nature. They differ from termites in that they do not eat wood or pulp, rather they burrow through it. To accomplish this in trees, they take advantage of a preexisting condition that has weakened, killed, or caused decay within the tree.

Environmental issues, previous infestations, poor pruning habits, and disease can all contribute to the declining health of a tree, and the successful infestation of it by carpenter ants. Knots, old insect tunnels, holes, cracks, and poorly healed pruning cuts can all offer access to carpenter ants. For more info on common tree diseases, see toddsmariettatreeservices.com/5-marietta-ga-tree-diseases-identification-treatment/

As a growing carpenter ant colony burrows into the heartwood of a tree, you are likely to notice the partial or complete dieback of branches and limbs.

Once a carpenter ant infestation is confirmed, have your tree inspected for signs of disease, other insect infestations, fungal infection, and rot. Again, carpenter ants are the least of your concerns. If they are present and thriving, it is due to other issues that have debilitated your tree’s defenses.

Avoid dressing or sealing wounds and cavities. This will not eliminate or prevent carpenter ant activity or the decay that made their presence possible.

The removal of your tree, based on an ant infestation, should only occur if absolutely required for the safety of your property.

Carpenter Ants and Tree Health

Black ants crawling all over your tree are signs of decay within the tree and represent an urgent need to identify the preexisting condition that gave them access in the first place.

In this article, you discovered methods to control and eliminate carpenter ants from your tree, and what their presence means for its health.

Your delay in controlling a carpenter ant infestation allows the colony to burrow deeper into your tree while establishing satellite colonies in other trees and structures around the parent colony. The longer you wait, the larger, more invasive, and more damaging this species of ants will become.

Sources:
https://ento.psu.edu/extension/factsheets/carpenter-ants
https://extension.umn.edu/insects-infest-homes/carpenter-ants
http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7416.html

The post Killing Carpenter Ants in Your Tree and What They Mean appeared first on http://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com.

Have you ever driven past a yard and noticed the trees? In some cases, they look immaculate, as if someone tended to them on a daily basis, ensuring they look pristine. In other cases, they’re a mess, and you (and the rest of the community) wish the homeowners would clean up their act, right?

Obviously, trees can enhance the look and value of a property. What can you do to “get the most out of the trees” on your property?

Inspect Them

Each Fall, around September, prepare your trees for the colder winter weather that’s on its way. Inspect them for signs of disease. Notice if they’ve got insect or animal damage. Are there dying limbs to worry about? Prune branches that are getting out of hand. Nourish your trees using both water and mulch. And if you’re planning on planting new trees in the yard, Fall is the best time to do so.

Proper Spacing

Here’s something interesting to think about– your trees might be too close to a driveway or house and those structures might be hampering tree roots and growth space. When planting new trees, keep in mind that their root system extends two to three times the length of the branches. Try not to plant them where other things will get in their way.

Watch Out for Issues

How about diseases? Check your trees and look for changes, especially in color and/or evidence of stunted growth. Consult the Internet for info about trees and their diseases. Know which ones are common in your community. And consult with tree experts if you suspect something is wrong with your tree (or trees) and want to remedy the problem before it’s too late.

Where Will the Leaves End Up?

Finally, think about how a small, young tree will grow where you put it… is it going to end up dropping wet leaves all over the driveway? Basically, you want to pick the right tree for the right place, and consulting an expert from a company like Big Foot Tree Service can help you make smart decisions regarding the placement of trees around your property. For a fast response, call Big Foot Tree Service at 973-885-8000.

This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com

While most people will generally agree that the right trees add quite a bit to a property, there are many reasons that sometimes removing a tree is the only viable option. Whether it’s because of damage due to disease or pests, a tree dying for other reasons, or just getting too big for the infrastructure in the area, sometimes the tree needs to be removed. Portland tree removal services are available from a wide variety of truly high quality providers. However, results and costs can vary.

In addition to this, every job is different and not many people outside of the business have a good grip on what fair pricing is. That can make it difficult to figure out what fair pricing is. If you want to know what a good price to pay for professional tree removal in Portland Oregon is in 2019 then read on to get the full scoop including average price ranges, special considerations, and everything else you need to think about.

Many Different Factors
There are many factors that can affect the pricing for a job. First and foremost is the overall difficulty. Simply put the longer a job takes and the harder it is, the more it is going to cost. This makes perfect sense, but certain extra factors or concerns can play a major part in upping the price.

Just a short list of these include, but are not limited to:
– Nearby hazards (power lines)
– Any property line issues
– Storm damage (resulting in very high demand)
– Size (age) of tree and complexity of job
– Time of the year

If there are special circumstances that hit any of these checklists (or all of them), then you can bet on the price creeping up to the high side. In addition to this, in certain neighborhoods you will need certain papers, permits, or approval from the city ahead of time and it is up to the homeowner to provide these.

Average Numbers for 2019
While the numbers can vary, there are some general ranges that can be a good rule of thumb based on general billing information and trends from 2018 into 2019 so far.

On the low end are bids ranging from $540 to $600
The middle (average) range seems to be in the $601-$710 with $643 being the “mean” average
On the higher end is the $711 to $850 price range

Different providers are going to provide different estimates and this is all going with the assumption that it is a relatively forward tree removal. If additional services are needed or other professionals need to be called in then you can expect that price range to grow, as well.

Is Stump Removal Needed?
Tree removal means just that: the removal of a problem tree. This does not include stump removal, which is an entirely different service and will likely add $250-$350 more on top of the actual bill for tree removal. It’s important to keep these two services separate to have a more realistic expectation when it comes to pricing.

Keep these factors in mind and now you have a good general idea of what tree removal should cost you. You can also read more if you are trying to calculate the cost yourself here 

This post first appeared on https://rhtreeservice.com

Your landscaping is an important part of what makes your house a home. To keep your landscaping looking great for years to come, you’ll need to keep an eye on the health of every element of it. This, of course, includes your trees. While trees may take less day to day maintenance than a flower bed or rose bush, you’ll still need to keep an eye out for specific signs that indicate your tree is sick.

Signs of Sickness to Watch for in Trees.

You can tell a lot about the health of a tree just by looking at it. You can start by looking at the roots and taking note of any broken off roots, places where the ground appears to rise up over the root, or fungi such as mushrooms growing around the roots. These are all signs that your tree is sick.

Next, look at the tree trunk just above the ground and check for peeled off bark and deep cracks in the surface. Check the rest of the trunk for swelling, holes, or soft spots that indicate decay. Finally, inspect the limbs and leaves for signs of disease. Spots, holes or discolored leaves are signs for concern, as well as low-hanging branches without bark or leaves, branches that appear to be leaning on others, or branches that have grown together into weak V shapes.

If you pull off a healthy twig and look inside, you’ll notice that it’s bright green. As the twig starts to decay, it will turn to dull green on the inside. If the inside brown or black, the branch is already dead. If you discover that a branch is dead, check the branches around it to determine how far the disease has already spread throughout the tree. You can also scratch the bark off of a section of a tree to expose the wood underneath, determine the health based on the color just as you can with twigs.

These are all signs that the team at Red’s Tree Service will look for when diagnosing a sick tree.

Common Types of Sickness in Trees

Once you notice that something is wrong with one or more of your trees, we can identify whether you’re experiencing one of these common tree problems.

Leaf diseases:

• Anthracnose: If you notice brown spots around the veins of the leaves, of notice that they are falling earlier than expected, this may be the problem. If you’ve had an unusually wet spring or summer, this fungus is even more likely to be an issue. It primarily affects maple, dogwood, ash, oak, and sycamore trees.
• Fire Blight: The name for this disease come from the fact that the dead and blackened leaves and fruits cling to the tree, making it appear burnt. While this is a later indication, the early signs are brown cankers on twigs, black spots on leaves, or leaves that grow in a candy cane shape. This disease commonly affects Cotoneaster, hawthorn, mountain ash, quince, apple, cherry, firethorn, and pear trees.
• Apple Scab: This could be the problem if you notice fruits or leaves with olive green spots or pale leaves that fall to quickly. You’ll start to see yellow spots in May or June, and they’ll get darker as the disease progresses. This disease is harmless but can be annoying and you may be bothered by the appearance of your trees. This disease generally affects mountain ash, crabapple, pear, Cotoneaster, and apple trees.

Diseases in the Tree:

• Cankers: Cankers are growth on the bark of a tree that looks like a blister or canker sore, hence the name. There are three common kinds, Cytospora, Nectria, and Phomopsis, and each one affects different types of trees. However, they all are caused by the same things. Cankers occur when any one of a number of bacteria of fungi infects an open wound in a tree.
• Heart Rot Disease: This disease is common in trees that shed their leaves each year, such as maple, cedar, dogwood, beech, and birch trees. It can be a result of improper pruning, broken branches, or fire or insect damage. Heart Rot disease is caused by fungus and bacteria infecting the bare wood on the tree. If you suspect Heart Rot disease, check for conk or mushroom bodies growing the tree.
• Sooty Mold Disease: This disease is the result of mold feeding of insect honeydew, and is, therefore, most prevalent in trees with a lot of feeding insects. Be on the lookout for a black powdery coating on the tree and leaves. The most common type of mold that affects trees are antennarella, aureobasidium, capnodium, cladosporium, limacinula, and scorias. It most commonly effects elm, linden, boxelder, and maple trees.
• Verticillium Wilt Disease: Verticillium wilt is an especially problematic disease because as a soil-borne disease, it attacks the tree at the root and you may not b able to catch is as quickly as some other diseases. It causes tree leaves to look disheveled and become lighter until they eventually wilt and fall off. The fungus associated with the disease can spread quickly through the soil to the rest of your landscaping, making Verticillium Wilt a highly contagious and concerning tree sickness. It’s most likely to infect elm, maple, catalpa, and stone fruit trees.

Treating Common Diseases in Trees

The team at Red’s Tree Service are experts at treating common tree diseases. We can also prune dead or dying areas of your trees to prevent further damage, or remove trees that are already dead and can’t be helped any further.

Contact us today for a free quote.

This post first appeared on https://redstreeservice.com

Don’t let oak wilt (Bretziella fagacearum) kill your tree. While few fungi can bring down the mighty oak tree, this is one of them.

Oak wilt is one of the most destructive tree diseases in the United States, and it’s on the loose, killing oak trees at nearly epidemic proportions. If your oak tree(s) appear to be in trouble, its problems may be caused by a fungus that, if not halted, will kill your tree in a matter of months.

72tree.com gathered essential information about oak wilt disease, how to identify it, treat it, and prevent it.

What is Oak Wilt?

Bretziella fagacearum, formerly known as Ceratocytis fagacearum, is the scientific name for oak wilt, and this fungal disease affects all species of the oak (Quercus) genus by disabling the water conducting system in these trees.

Based upon porosity and leaf shape, oaks are divided into two groups; red oaks and white oaks. Bretziella fagacearum affects these two groups differently:

White Oak Group – The species below that are part of this group have rounded leaf edges and pores clogged by tyloses.

• Quercus alba (the most commonly known white oak species)
• Quercus lobata (California white oak or valley oak)
• Quercus polymorpha (Mexican white oak or Monterrey oak)
• Quercus bicolor (swamp white oak)
• Quercus arizonica (Arizona white oak)
• Quercus garryana (Oregon white oak or Garry oak)

Tyloses are outgrowths on cells of xylem vessels. Tyloses fall from the sides of the cells and seal a tree’s vascular tissue to prevent or reduce damage.

Red Oak Group – The species below that are part of this group have pointed leaf edges and large open pores:

• Quercus falcata (southern red oak)
• Quercus graciliformis (Canby oak or Chisos oak)
• Quercus buckleyi (Texas red oak)
• Quercus rubra (the northern red oak)
• Carnarvonia araliifolia (an Australian rainforest tree)

Due to the difference in porosity, species in the red oak group are more easily infected by oak wilt and die more quickly than the white oak group species. In fact, infected trees in the red oak group may die off within a single summer season, where those in the white oak group can persist for several years after being infected.

Another difference is that trees in the red oak group produce fungal spore mats that facilitate the “above ground or overland” spread of the pathogen, whereas the trees in the white oak group rarely produce them.

How to Identify Oak Wilt Disease

Oak trees infected with oak wilt present the following symptoms:

• Leaf chlorosis
• Leaf drop (off-season)
• Dieback from the top down
• Veinal necrosis (Live oak species only)

In most cases of infection, oak leaves will turn pale green and then brown while still attached to the tree. By the time they fall, the tree is likely dead.

This disease is dangerous in that it is extremely fast acting; it can kill a mature oak tree in a matter of two to four months while spreading from tree to tree via grafted roots.

Grafted roots occur when the roots of two or more compatible tree species meet and fuse together. Once roots are grafted, they gain the ability to interchange nutrients, water, and disease to each other.

If you suspect that your oak tree is infected with oak wilt, have your tree inspected by an arborist immediately.

How to Treat Oak Wilt Disease

Once Bretziella fagacearum has infected your tree, your fast action is required to halt this pathogen. There are two principle ways to treat oak wilt disease:

Fungicide Treatment – Propiconazole applications are an effective preventative measure. During the earliest stages of infection, this fungicide is injected through holes drilled in the root flare, to the tree’s water-conducting vascular system.

The success of this treatment is greatly influenced by the health of the tree and the fungicide application rate. Any time holes are drilled into a tree for this type of treatment, a professional should be hired to make sure the fungicide is applied correctly and that the holes do not become sources of further infection or infestation.

Trenching to Sever Root Connections – When a tree has been infected and fungicide treatments are no longer viable, trenching will help stop the pathogen from being transmitted from tree to tree by grafted roots.

After identifying infected trees, a trench should be dug with a trenching machine, ripper bar, rock saw, or walk-behind trencher to a depth of at least 4 feet (trenches deeper than 4 feet may be required in deeper soil), and a minimum 100 foot radius around the infected tree(s).

Healthy trees within the trench are considered high risk and should be uprooted or removed to improve the effectiveness of the barrier. Tree removal should start immediately after trenching, beginning with the trees closest to the trench, and working inward thereafter until all of the trees within the trench have been eliminated.

An oak wilt contamination can be more easily contained when treatment begins early. Trees outside the trenched area should be monitored for several years after the infected area has been treated, and in the event of further infection, the same procedure (trenching and tree removal) should be repeated while the contaminated area is still manageable.

Oak Wilt Disease Prevention

Tree disease prevention begins with tree health. However, when it comes to oak wilt disease, special care must be taken to avoid infecting otherwise healthy trees. The following will help you avoid spreading the Bretziella fagacearum pathogen to your oaks:

Tree Health – A healthy tree has defense mechanisms that help it stave off attacks from fungi and insect infestation. Whether it be exuding sap to close wounds made by insects, or compartmentalization to contain invading pathogens, the healthier your tree is, the more effective its defense will be. The following steps help you increase your tree’s vitality:

During prolonged dry seasons:

• Provide weekly deep waterings for your trees.
• Fertilize your trees before the growing season begins (February, and early March).
• Mulch your trees to avoid losing soil moisture.
• Inspect your trees frequently for wounds and weather damage (including surface roots), use tree wound dressing, wax based dressing, or latex paint to seal these wounds.

Pruning Activities – Pruning encourages new growth. However, in the case of oak trees, pruning them may provide an opportunity for Bretziella fagacearum to invade and kill your tree. Adhere to the following guidelines when pruning oak trees:

• From February through July, avoid pruning or wounding your oak tree(s). This period is when oak wilt fungal mats are most easily formed, and oak bark beetles (Scolytinae) and sap beetles (nitidulid) are most active.
• Pruning activities should take place during midwinter or extended periods of hot weather in late summer. (these are the periods which present the least threat to your oaks)
• Sterilize all pruning equipment between trees.
• Paint all pruning wounds with a tree wound dressing, wax-based dressing, or latex paint to create an immediate barrier to contaminated beetles or airborne pathogens, regardless of the time of year.
• Freshly cut stumps and wounded surface roots should be dressed immediately, as Bretziella fagacearum can be transmitted from tree to tree through grafted roots.

Diseased Tree Removal – Oak trees that are dead or dying from oak wilt disease should be removed and immediately burned or buried to prevent dissemination of the disease’s spores.

When dealing with infected trees, call on a professional tree service to handle the removal and destruction of these trees. They will also be able to assess the potential risk to surrounding trees and advise you on any further necessary preventative measures.

Firewood Awareness

– Avoid purchasing or transporting unseasoned firewood. Since fungal mats may form on unseasoned oak firewood, you could be unintentionally spreading the pathogen to uninfected areas.

Seasoned firewood has been dried for a minimum of one year and poses little to no threat of spreading the oak wilt pathogen.

Oak Tree Disease – Bretziella Fagacearum

Your mighty oak tree can become infected and die in a matter of months. The Bretziella fagacearum fungus can spread by way of insects, airborne spores, and through grafted roots. By the time you identify the problem, you may be dealing with several infected trees on a fast-track to death.

In this article, you discovered vital information about oak wilt disease, how you can identify it, what you need to do to treat it, and prevention tips.

Your slow response to this fast-acting disease can not only result in the death of your tree, but also to the spread of oak wilt to numerous trees in surrounding environments. At the first sign of trouble, call a professional to help you assess the damage and required measures for containment.

Sources:
https://tfsweb.tamu.edu/OakWiltFAQS/
http://www.inspection.gc.ca/plants/plant-pests-invasive-species/diseases/oak-wilt/fact-sheet/eng/1325629194844/1325632464641
https://www.annualreviews.org/doi/abs/10.1146/annurev.en.07.010162.001551?journalCode=ento
https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/oak_wilt_disease_1
http://www.austintexas.gov/blog/oak-wilt-101

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/oak-wilt-identification-treatment-prevention/