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Your leaning tree can fall, causing catastrophic and life-threatening damages. By staking your tree, you can help it re-establish itself, prevent its death, and eliminate the danger of it falling.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered information on why trees lean, how to properly stake them, and when tree removal may be necessary.

Why Trees Lean

Before taking action to stake or brace a tree, it’s helpful to understand the reasons why trees may lean in different stages of their growth.

The following require staking, bracing, or cabling and can be halted or reversed:

• The tree was planted off-center.
• The tree may be leaning towards the sun.
• The root ball has shifted in unsteady soil.
• Constant wind has shaped the tree to curve or has moved its center of gravity.
• The tree was struck by a vehicle or heavy machinery.
• Neighboring support trees were removed.
• The crown is off-center from poor pruning practices.

The following are irreversible and may require the immediate removal of the tree:

• An earthquake, floodwater, rockslide, or landslide has caused the root plate to destabilize and fail.
• Roots are failing due to rot from disease or poorly-drained soil.
• The tree trunk cracked.

As trees reach maturity, they can weigh from 2,000 to 20,000 pounds. When that weight becomes off-centered, and the tree begins to lean, quick action is required to prevent a fall with potentially deadly results.

Read How to Identify a Tree Emergency, and if you have a mature tree threatening to fall, call a tree professional to evaluate the immediate risk and lay out a course of action.

Tree Support Systems to Prevent or Stop Their Leaning

Support systems for young and leaning trees change as trees mature. The following are different systems used at various stages of tree development:

Planted as a Seedling – For the first 6 months to one year, the tree should be protected from the elements and wildlife by a chickenwire encircling enclosure, lined with burlap on the upwind side.

Transplanted Trees – Bare root and rootball transplants are highly susceptible to the elements until their root system extends and forms a firm root plate. These trees should be staked for 1 to 2 years while this process takes place.

Young trees planted as seedlings should be staked once they outgrow their protective enclosures to prevent leaning or severe weather damage.

To accomplish this:

1. Drive two 8 foot stakes 2 feet into the ground on either side of the tree trunk (about 1 ½ feet from the trunk on each side).
2. Tie or attach a piece of burlap or other soft material – looped around the trunk – to each of the stakes. There should be enough slack for the tree to sway 3 to 6 inches in all directions before the material tightens around the trunk.
3. If wildlife is an issue, surround the tree with chicken wire using the stakes as a harness.
4. While a tree is staked, check the bark where any contact is made frequently. If damage or wear is detected, move the material up or down on the stakes.

Never tie or attach anything to trees being staked. Besides bark damage, the tree could end up girdled or sawed through if there is constant friction.

This staking method is highly effective until the trunk reaches a diameter at breast height (DBH) of 4.5 to 6 inches, at which point stronger measures are required.

Trees with a DBH >6 inches – When trees reach this size, they are heavy enough to cause severe to catastrophic damage if brought down during a storm or fall from their own weight. If they begin to lean, take the following actions immediately:

• Prune the tree to reset its balance or center of gravity.
• Cabling the tree can relieve pressure from branches, causing a redistribution of weight and stress within the crown.
• Anchor the tree to stop or reverse the lean by:

1. Driving a 5-foot heavy-duty iron stake into the ground 8 to 10 feet opposite the direction of the lean (this stake will be supporting tremendous weight).
2. Attach a cable rated for 1,400 to 1,960 pounds to the stake equipped with a turnbuckle or winching device, and loop the other end around the tree trunk above the first branches.
3. Use foam or rubber as a cushion to prevent the cable from directly contacting the tree’s bark.
4. Tighten the turnbuckle until the cable is firm. Then further tighten the cable every other day.
5. This process can last weeks and be successful provided there are no underlying issues with root rot or disease.
6. Call a professional to evaluate the state of the tree and offer guidance.

In all of the above situations, a tree professional should be called to evaluate the tree, determine why it is leaning, and what actions to take.

Staking Leaning Trees

Trees lean for different reasons, but there are various support systems to be used at different stages of the development of a tree.

In this article, you discovered why trees lean, how to stake or secure them properly, and when tree removal becomes necessary.

When your tree begins to lean, it is telling you something is wrong. Don’t procrastinate and allow a leaning tree to fall on your home or loved ones.

Sources:
gatrees.org/community-forests/ask-the-arborist/LeaningTrees-Whatsupwiththat.pdf
hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/cabling.shtml

The post How to Stake a Leaning Tree appeared first on http://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com.

If you’ve recently had a tree cut down in your yard, you were probably left with the stump of that tree. Although perfectly harmless, stumps can be an eyesore, or they might be causing a disruption in your smooth lawn. Left alone, the stump will eventually rot on its own and compost into the dirt, but it can take years for nature to break everything down. These tips will help you speed up the process and have that stump gone in no time.

1. Water:

As most people probably know, moisture is what causes rotting in the first place. The safest and cleanest option to rot your stump is to soak it in plenty of water. Cut the stump as low to the ground as possible, then drill large holes into it. This will allow more water to penetrate inside. Next, fill the holes and flood the surrounding area with plenty of water. Place a tarp or large piece of plastic over the stump and ground around it. To trap the moisture inside the tarp, place rocks or wet mulch over the top. Wet mulch is the best option because it will help trap even more water underneath your cover. While this method isn’t the fastest, it will still speed up the natural process of decay.

2. Epsom Salt:

This method is a little faster than water but still relatively safe and non-toxic for plants. Repeat the same steps as above, but before flooding the stump with water, pour Epsom salts into the holes you drilled in the wood. The salts will help draw water from the surrounding soil into the stump, allowing it to rot even faster than with just plain water. Epsom salt can be purchased at most drug or grocery stores for relatively cheap, making this a cost-effective method.

3. Nitrogen Fertilizer:

if you are still looking for the fastest way to rot a stump, this is definitely your best bet. Fertilizers high in nitrogen aren’t the most environmentally friendly products, so use this only as your last resort. Just like with the Epsom salt process, fill the holes with a generous amount of fertilizer. The high levels of nitrogen nourish the growth of plants and fungi, which will quickly overtake the stump, and use its decay to flourish. Pretty soon, your stump will disappear, and you’ll be left with a wild little patch of new growth. This will be much easier to remove (or you can leave it if you like the self-cultivated garden), and then your lawn will be back to lush, green smoothness. Give our Tree Service Experts a call for a free consultation

This post first appeared on https://rhtreeservice.com

Fall is an excellent time to plant trees, but which ones? Some tree species should be generally avoided. Other trees are problematic when planted in Oregon. In this post, we list trees to steer clear of, while also giving some tips about tree care in Portland. Tree planting can be an enjoyable fall activity but making sure that you do it right (by selecting the right tree and planting it properly) is key to each tree’s success. Finally, we talk about which trees are recommended for planting in the Beaver State.

What Are the Most Common “Problem Trees”?

Most problems occur when the wrong tree is planted in the wrong place. When the tree’s ideal conditions for growing and establishing itself are not met, it places extra stress on the tree, which invites disease, bugs, and long-term damage. Many problems also occur when a tree grows too large for its intended spot. Trees that appear in newspaper ads guaranteeing to grow 50 feet in 5 years are best avoided.

Silver Maple. The Silver Maple grows quickly, but its aggressive roots can cause sidewalks to buckle and drains to clog. This species’ weak wood is susceptible to breaking. Although Silver Maple is adaptable to some harsh conditions, under normal circumstances it is best for firewood, not planting in your yard.

Sycamore. Sycamores are huge trees that are usually oversized for city use. Moreover, sycamores tend to be messy, and they are susceptible to a host of diseases and fungus problems.

Siberian Elm. According to renowned tree expert Dr. Michael Dirr, the Siberian Elm may be the “world’s worst tree.” Susceptible to numerous diseases, brittle wood, and the elf leaf beetle, the American Elm is a problematic tree overall.

Bradford Pear. This tree has a poor branch structure. It grows too many branches at weak or narrow angles. Finally, the Bradford Pear’s branches tend to split as the tree reaches maturity. If you must have a Bradford Pear, plan for Portland tree services, particularly pruning, to develop proper structure.

What Are Trees We Should Avoid Planting in Oregon?

Willows. Willows are high maintenance trees that have invasive roots. As such, they are not generally recommended for Portland yards. With that said, there are 3 willows that are native to Oregon and are considered by the city of Portland to be good choices, as they are well-suited to our environment. Those three willows are the Pacific Willow (Salix lucida ssp. lasiandra), the Rigid Willow (Salix rigida var. macrogemma), and the Scouler Willow (Salix scouleriana).

Leyland Cypress. Opinions vary on this fast-growing Cypress. The downsides are clear: Leyland Cypresses require lots of trimming and care, and they can also be fire hazards. However, in areas with short growing seasons, such as Bend, Leyland Cypresses might not be a bad choice, given an appropriate spot.

Ash. Ash is a species that is often considered problematic. But looking at the City of Portland’s Native Tree List, one finds the Oregon Ash (Fraxinus latifolia) as a tree that is adaptable to the city’s environment.

Native vs. Non-Native in Urban Environments

Much has been written about the use of native vs. non-native trees. Recently, discussion among city planners has focused on the use of native trees in the urban environment. Clearly, urban environments offer a different set of growing conditions than a pristine forest. As such, planners and urban homeowners must pick trees that are selected to fill a specific role, whether that be to produce shade, filter sound, or provide aesthetic beauty. Native trees and shrubs also have their place in green areas (creeks and streams located within the city limits), and as part of backyard wildlife ecosystems, which are important to a healthy city. If you are interested in learning more, check out the City of Portland’s list of Native and Nuisance trees.

Tips for Tree Care

Fall is indeed a great time to plant, but there are a few things to be aware of as you continue. The first step is to make sure that you have done the research to select the right tree for your location. Make sure that the planting hole is plenty wide—that way, the tree’s side feeder roots will have a chance to grow before winter sets in. Additionally, be sure to water all new plantings, even if it rains. Continue to check on new trees and make sure they get the moisture they need. Make sure that you plant your tree at the right height (the root crown should meet the soil) and that the roots are not twisted or crossing (this will cause girdling).

Urban Forest Pro Can Help!

We have several articles that discuss fall tree planting and what Portland tree services Urban Forest Pros can provide. On average, $300 will cover the costs of consultation, acquiring the tree itself, and planting by our expert crew. Since we use only premium stock that is hand-picked by our ISA-certified arborists, all of our trees are guaranteed for tree years against everything except drought and vandalism. Call us today to get started with a tree planting project.

Check out our Angies List reviews.

• Silver Maple
• Sycamore
• Siberian Elm
• Bradford Pear

Learn more.”
}
}, “@type”: “Question”, “name”: “What Are Trees We Should Avoid Planting in Oregon?”, “acceptedAnswer”: “@type”: “Answer”, “text”: “

• Willows. Willows are high maintenance trees that have invasive roots. As such, they are not generally recommended for Portland yards. With that said, there are 3 willows that are native to Oregon and are considered by the city of Portland to be good choices, as they are well-suited to our environment.
• Leyland Cypress. Opinions vary on this fast-growing Cypress. The downsides are clear: Leyland Cypresses require lots of trimming and care, and they can also be fire hazards. However, in areas with short growing seasons, such as Bend, Leyland Cypresses might not be a bad choice, given an appropriate spot.
• Ash. Ash is a species that is often considered problematic. But looking at the City of Portland’s Native Tree List, one finds the Oregon Ash (Fraxinus latifolia) as a tree that is adaptable to the city’s environment.

Learn more.”


] }

This post first appeared on https://www.urbanforestprofessionals.com

Your tree is more likely to die if you don’t consider the factors that affect its development during their planting. Your trees’ health is directly correlated to the time, location, pre-planning, and species that you choose ever before planting.

72tree.com assembled the following guide with professional tips to help you properly plant and care for your tree.

Best Time to Plant Trees

There is much debate as to when the best tree planting time is. For more moderate climates such as the south, southeast, or southwest, either early fall or early spring are appropriate planting times.

For locations where there is winter snow cover or ground freeze, spring (after the ground thaws) is the best time to plant.

Tree Location

Now that you’ve decided to plant a tree and identified the best time, you’ll need to choose a suitable location. In doing so, take the following factors into consideration:

Sunlight – Does the planting location get full sun (all day), partial sun (morning or evening), or full shade (no sun)

Water – Most tree species require well-drained soil. If your chosen location is in a low-lying area or a depression, water may accumulate and stand, leading to root rot and other diseases.

Tip: Verify that your location is well-drained after a rainstorm or run a hose at the site to see how the water accumulates or runs off.

Soil – The soil where you plant your tree should be loose, mixed with organic material, and turned to avoid compaction.

Tip: Many tree species can thrive in a soil pH level between 5 (acidic) and 7(neutral). You can raise the soil pH by adding lime or limestone and reduce the pH by adding aluminum sulfate, sulfur, manure, or compost (pH levels above 7 are alkaline).

Spacing – When planting multiple trees, they can be spaced apart according to their mature canopy spread. Tree spacings from 20 to 60 feet apart are standard. This spacing allows the open-grown form of the tree canopy to develop naturally.

Conversely, when planted too close together, a tree may fail to reach its mature height and struggle to absorb enough sunlight and nutrients to remain healthy.

Tip: Follow spacing recommendations for your specific tree species.

Wind – The location you’ve selected should be observed over time to determine whether or not your tree will endure constant wind or violent wind gusts.

Tip: Stake young trees until they can support themselves without bending under pressure. Most trees will take one to two years before fully establishing their root systems.

Structures – A tree’s roots spread far from where it is planted. As roots spread, they thicken and may become invasive. When a tree is planted too close to a house, sidewalk, patio, or driveway, those roots can grow underneath the structure and break up or buckle the concrete.

Tip: Plant trees far from structures with concrete foundations or slabs, and install root barriers to protect building foundations, driveways, sidewalks, etc.

Protection – Weather and wildlife can stress or kill your tree as it matures. By planting shrubs near and around your tree, you can naturally lessen the impact of wind. Surrounding structures will also act in this capacity.

Tip: Discourage wildlife from grazing your tree’s foliage or damaging its bark by putting up chicken wire around the tree, using bark wraps, or by using chemical deterrents.

The USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map defines planting zones from 1a to 13b. The zone in which you plan to plant a tree will determine which species you should select. You can determine your hardiness zone at planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/InteractiveMap.aspx

Tree Species

The species of tree you decide to plant can profoundly impact the surrounding landscape in various ways. Verify that the species you intend to plant is appropriate for the location in which you are planting and consider the following:

Deciduous or Evergreen Trees – If you want your tree to maintain a lush green appearance year-round, you are looking for an evergreen species which may include:

• Blue Spruce
• Scots Pine
• Green Giant Arborvitae
• Magnolia
• Holly
• Leyland Cypress

If you want to enjoy fall colors as your tree prepares to go dormant for the winter, you are looking for one of the many deciduous species which may include:

• Oaks
• Maples
• Birch
• Sweetgum
• Tulip
• Quaking Aspen

Tip: Regarding quaking aspens, the species has an invasive root system and will produce suckers that are clones of the original tree. When planting this species, be sure that it has enough space to grow and spread without obstruction.

Understory or Overstory – An understory tree may be best if your planting location is restricted or you desire a mid-sized tree. The following species are considered understory, and are shade tolerant reaching mature heights of 20 to 40 feet:

• Flowering Dogwood
• Eastern Redbud
• White Fringetree
• Japanese Maple
• Black Aldar

If you are looking for a tree that makes a statement by its size and you have the landscape to accommodate its growth, the following overstory species reach mature heights of 60 to over 100 feet:

• Southern Magnolia
• Green Ash
• White Oak
• Southern Red Oak

Tip: When planting multiple trees, understory trees can be planted near overstory trees as protection from strong or persistent winds.

For more info, refer to 72tree.com/tree-buying-tips/ before purchasing the trees you intend to plant.

Planting Your Tree

When planting a seedling or sapling, the following should be considered in the preparation of the planting location:

Surrounding Soil – Organic material or pH stabilizing material should be mixed into the soil in no less than a 2-foot radius of where the tree will be planted.

Tip: When transplanting a more developed tree, treat the soil in a 3 to 4-foot radius of the planting location.

Dig the Hole – Measure the distance from the bottom of the trunk to the bottom of the roots or root ball; this is how deep your hole must be. The hole must also be wide enough for the entire root ball to fit without being cramped or bent.

Tip: To confirm the accuracy of the depth, allow the tree to rest in the hole paying particular attention to where the roots connect to the tree. Known as the root flare, it should remain just above the ground.

Water in the Hole – Before planting your tree, provide a deep watering for the hole, allowing water to soak deep into the earth below. This moisture will encourage roots to grow deep.

Plant the Tree – Now that your hole is dug, the soil enriched, and the ground watered, place your tree in the hole covering the roots with soil up to the root flare.

Tip: When covering the roots with soil, do not overly compact it. Water the newly planted tree and allow the soil to settle. As the soil settles, add more to the top, keeping the root flare just above ground level.

Watering – Your newly planted tree should receive a deep watering 2 to 3 times per week. Avoid shallow waterings as they encourage roots to grow to the surface.

Tip: Use a slow-release watering system which maintains constant moisture while allowing proper drainage for excess water.

During rainy seasons, scale back the watering schedule and increase it during periods of drought. Don’t allow the soil to dry out for newly planted trees completely.

Fertilizer – If you have prepared the soil in and around the planting location, no fertilizing should be necessary for the first full year of growth.

Tip: Use organic mulch around the tree. As it decays, mulch releases nutrients into the soil. An added advantage is that mulch helps the soil retain moisture and warmth, both of which are fundamental for healthy root growth.

Tree Planting and Your Landscape

Your tree is likely to struggle and die without considering the factors that influence its growth when it is planted.

In this article, you discovered how to determine the correct tree species for your landscape, how to prepare the planting location, and pro tips to help you avoid common mistakes when planting a tree.

Your lack of knowledge about soil, sun, water, location, and species when planting a tree can result in its declining health and eventual death.

Sources:
extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/watering-newly-planted-trees-and-shrubs
static.colostate.edu/client-files/csfs/pdfs/TreePlanting_636.pdf
extension.umn.edu/trees-and-shrubs/choosing-evergreens-your-landscape

This article was first published on: http://www.72tree.com/beginners-guide-tree-planting/

During October and November what are some things to do to care for the trees on your property, so they’ll be ready for the winter ahead?

Typically, trees seem to hibernate during the winter months, but keep in mind that harsh weather conditions can put a lot of stress on them. What are some things you can do to lessen that stress?

Cold Weather Preparation

To prepare trees for colder weather, it’s a smart idea to use mulch around them. By spreading organic mulch under and around trees in the autumn months, you’ll help them reduce temperature extremes in the soil (mulch acts a bit like a blanket) as well as help them retain water.

Quench the Thirst

Speaking of water, droughts can and do happen in the winter. If the temperature is above freezing, it’s a smart idea to use your garden hose and water your trees a couple times during the autumn months. This is especially helpful if it hasn’t rained for weeks where you live. Trees, like humans, get thirsty!

Planting for the Future

If you’re thinking about planting new trees, October and November are good times to do so. Cooler weather sets in, which helps stimulate root growth in new trees.

Prune the Older Ones

As for older trees on your property, it’s a good idea to prune them before the snow comes. Ideally, right after the trees drop their leaves, you can see what needs pruning. Get rid of dead branches. Pruning is like giving a tree a “haircut.” It’s good for the tree if done properly. If you don’t have the tools or knowledge to prune your tree(s), it’s best to call a professional from Big Foot Tree Service.

Prevent Tree Injuries

Finally, you can help prevent injuries to your trees by wrapping their bases with a plastic or metal guard/cloth. People often use burlap to do this… basically, wrapping a tree helps protect it from temperature damage, plow damage, and animal rubbing damage. The wrapping can be removed in late Spring.

Big Foot Tree Service of Wayne, New Jersey, can help you prepare the trees on your property for the coming winter. Big Foot does all sorts of services, including tree trimming, tree removal, stump removal, and emergency service after a storm hits. For more info, please call 973-885-8000.

This post first appeared on https://www.bigfoottreeservice.com

There’s no better way to minimize your dependence on central heating this winter than by taking advantage of your home’s fireplace. Assuming you have dry firewood, you can build fires to radiate heat throughout your home.

But you can’t use just any wood lying around your landscape. Before using it in your fireplace, you need to “season” it.

What Is Seasoning?

When used in the context of firewood, the term “seasoning” refers to the act of drying firewood so that it burns more efficiently.

When a tree is still growing, it contains a lot of moisture. Even after being cut down, it will retain most of its moisture.

Seasoning is designed to lower the moisture content of wood, resulting in better firewood.

Step #1) Split Your Firewood

The first step to seasoning your firewood is to split it into several pieces.

You shouldn’t attempt to season whole pieces of firewood. Unless a piece of firewood is split, it will be covered in bark. All this bark insulates the wood, preventing water from evaporating out of its core.

By splitting your firewood into several smaller pieces, water will evaporate out of it more quickly.

Step #2) Arrange in Stacks Outside

After splitting your firewood, you should arrange it in one or more stacks in an appropriate area outside your home.

Keep in mind, you must choose an outdoor area where your firewood isn’t exposed to moisture. Otherwise, it won’t season properly, regardless of how long it’s left outside.

There are two things, specifically, to consider when choosing an outdoor area in which to season your firewood.

If it’s uncovered – meaning there’s nothing over your firewood – rain will inevitably reach your firewood. Additionally, if you store your firewood on the soil, it will soak up moisture from the ground, not to mention creating an ideal environment for wood boring insects to proliferate.

Step #3) Wait and Check Periodically

You can’t expect your firewood to season overnight. Depending on the type of firewood, as well as other factors, it usually takes a minimum of six months to fully season firewood.

During this time, it’s a good idea to check your firewood on a regular basis to ensure that it’s not wet or damp. If you discover that your firewood is wet, you may need to move to a different, drier area.

After allowing your firewood to dry for at least six months, you can then use it to build fires in your fireplace, fire pit or elsewhere.

The Woodsman Company offers tree planting, tree pruning and shrub trimming, tree removal and stump grinding as well as a tree wellness program.

If we can help with any of your tree care needs give us a call at 512-846-2535 or 512-940-0799 or

Request a Quote / Schedule an Appointment

The post How to Season Your Firewood (The Right Way) appeared first on Woodsman Tree Service.

Have you discovered a patch of creeping bentgrass in your lawn? Assuming the patch is small and isolated to a single area, conventional wisdom may lead you to believe that it isn’t a threat to your lawn.

Unfortunately, creeping bentgrass is notorious for its ability to quickly spread – all while consuming valuable nutrients, as well as moisture, from the soil.

What Is Creeping Bentgrass?

Also known as carpet bentgrass and spreading bentgrass, creeping bentgrass is a type of perennial grass in the Poaceae family.

It’s typically used for golf course turf because of its ability to withstand stress. If creeping bentgrass takes root in your lawn, it can quickly take over if left unchecked.

The good news is that you control this otherwise invasive species of grass by following a few simple tips.

Plant New Grass Seed

Planting new grass seed can help control and minimize the impact of creeping bentgrass.

Whether your lawn consists of St. Augustine, bermudagrass, buffalo grass or any other common variety, re-seeding it will encourage the growth of new grass.

The seeds will fill bare patches with new grass while simultaneously restricting the growth of creeping bentgrass and other invasive species of grass.

Remove the Roots

Another way to control creeping bentgrass is to remove its roots.

As you may know, creeping bentgrass grows in clusters. Each of these clusters is connected to a root system that extends several inches into the soil.

When you come across a cluster of creeping bentgrass, try digging or pulling it up by its root system. With the root system removed, the creeping bentgrass shouldn’t regrow.

Of course, removing the root system of each cluster is tedious, but there are other ways to control this invasive grass species.

Cut Back on the Water

Using less water on your lawn can help eradicate creeping bentgrass.

According to Texas A&M’s AggieTurf, creeping bentgrass doesn’t tolerate drought very well.

By watering your lawn less frequently, creeping bentgrass will enter a stressed state where it begins to scale back and eventually die.

Use an Herbicide

Perhaps the easiest and most effective way to control creeping bentgrass is to use an herbicide.

Herbicides containing the chemical glyphosate are particularly effective at controlling creeping bentgrass.

Available in a variety of store-bought herbicides, it’s able to kill creeping bentgrass and other invasive grass species.

Just remember to avoid using it on your healthy grass, as glyphosate may kill it as well.

The Woodsman Company offers tree planting, tree pruning and shrub trimming, tree removal and stump grinding as well as a tree wellness program.

If we can help with any of your tree care needs give us a call at 512-846-2535 or 512-940-0799 or

Request a Quote / Schedule an Appointment

The post How to Prevent Creeping Bentgrass From Taking Over Your Lawn appeared first on Woodsman Tree Service.

Have you heard of hard landscaping? In recent years, it’s become an increasingly popular landscaping trend among homeowners and business owners alike.

By taking advantage of hard materials like stone and brick, homeowners and business owners can create an attractive yet functional landscape.

Unless you’re familiar with this trend, though, you might be wondering how hard landscaping works.

What Is Hard Landscaping?

Also known simply as hardscaping, hard landscaping involves the use of hard structures – both natural and man-made – in a landscape.

As you may know, conventional landscaping relies heavily on soft structures like plants and vegetation. Hard landscaping may still use some of these soft structures, but it emphasizes the use of hard structures.

Common structures and materials used in hard landscaping include:

• Brick pavers
• Stone
• Gravel
• Glass
• Steel
• Aluminum

Hard Landscaping vs Soft Landscaping: What’s the Difference?

Soft landscaping, on the other hand, refers to traditional landscaping practices that involve the use of soft structures and materials like vegetation.

With soft landscaping, you use plants, flowers, mulch, trees and other vegetation. With hard landscaping, you use the hard structures and materials listed above.

Benefits of Hard Landscaping

Hard landscaping offers several benefits, one of which is ease of maintenance.

Because the hard structures and materials used in this landscaping practices aren’t living, they require little effort to maintain.

You don’t have to water or fertilize the hard structures and materials, nor do you have to monitor them for signs of disease or illness.

In addition to low maintenance, hard landscaping also promotes a more functional outdoor living space.

With hard structures and materials blanketing the landscape, you’ll be able to traverse and use this space more easily. For these reasons and others, hard landscaping has become an increasingly popular landscaping trend in recent years.

Is Hard Landscaping the Right Choice?

You can certainly embrace hard landscaping to improve your home’s or business’s curb appeal, but that doesn’t mean you should overlook the importance of natural vegetation.

Hard structures and materials can improve the surrounding aesthetics of your home or business – all while requiring little maintenance.

With that said, there’s no substitution for the organic and colorful appearance of natural vegetation. If you’re going to use hard landscaping, consider combining it with natural vegetation.

The Woodsman Company offers tree planting, tree pruning and shrub trimming, tree removal and stump grinding as well as a tree wellness program.

If we can help with any of your tree care needs give us a call at 512-846-2535 or 512-940-0799 or

Request a Quote / Schedule an Appointment

The post A Beginner’s Guide to Hard Landscaping appeared first on Woodsman Tree Service.

Do you have mushroom conks growing out of your tree trunk? Don’t mistake these fungi as a regular thing, they are a grim sign that your tree is dying or already dead.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered information on why mushrooms grow on tree trunks and the immense danger they represent.

Mushrooms Growing on a Tree

Mushrooms are a common sight in fertile garden soil, healthy landscapes, on outdoor woodpiles, and fallen trees. This may contribute to the misplaced sense of normalcy when you see them growing on tree trunks or root flares.

You should be alarmed when you see mushroom conks on a tree:

• Mushroom conks are the reproductive part of fungi.
• Fungi require rotting organic material to thrive.
• When mushroom conks grow on the trunk of a tree, it is a sign of rot within the tree.
• When mushrooms grow from a tree’s root flare or on surface roots, it is a sign of root rot.

By the time mushroom conks appear on a tree trunk or root flare, the responsible fungus has already caused severe damage to the host tree.

Signs of a Fungal Tree Disease

Your tree may be succumbing to a fungal disease without the immediate appearance of mushroom conks. The following signs of disease may precede the presence of these reproductive bodies:

• Dieback occurring on one side or throughout the crown.
• Early leaf drop.
• Stunted leaf growth
• Severe wilting or drooping of the tree’s foliage.
• Chlorosis (leaves lose their vibrant green color) of the tree’s foliage.
• Branches and twigs die and become brittle.
• Cankers appear on branches and the trunk.
• The tree may begin to lean.
• Carpenter ants nesting in the trunk or limbs.
• Boring insects successfully attacking and infesting the tree.

If one or a combination of these symptoms are present in your tree, hire an arborist to evaluate the tree and recommend a course of action.

Tree Fungus Types and Identification

Many types of fungi grow on trees. Some of those fungi are harmless to a mature tree, while others signal certain decline and eventual death. Take the following fungi, for example:

Lichens – A lichen is a symbiotic relationship between algae and a fungus, and poses little to no threat to a tree. Lichens come in many shapes, sizes, and colors but appear most commonly as a low, flat, crusty, greenish substance branching out like a doily.

Lichens do not penetrate tree bark; they attach themselves and spread along the surface. This organism may grow on trees, cement pathways, park benches, brick structures, windows, etc.

Powdery mildew – This fungal disease affects the foliage of various trees and plants. Powdery mildew diseases can be caused by many different fungal species from the order Erysiphales. These fungi appears as a white powdery covering of foliage and stems. It is rarely fatal to mature trees unless widespread infection weakens the tree, allowing subsequent infections and insect infestations.

Polyporus Alveolaris – This is a species of fungus in the genus Polyporus, and poses a significant risk to trees. It causes white rot in dead and decaying hardwoods. Commonly growing on decaying logs and rotting trees, conks of this species have a yellowish to orange scaly cap and hexagonal or diamond-shaped pores. This species of fungus is widespread across North America.

Ganoderma Applanatum – Rot caused by this fungus may take several years to kill a tree but makes the tree very susceptible to secondary infections, infestations, and wind-throw. The shelf-like fruiting structure forms at or near the soil line. It appears brown to reddish-brown on top with a white-colored margin. The underside of the shelf contains millions of pores in which spores are formed.

Ganoderma Lucidum – This species causes root rot and forms a shelf-like structure on the wood similar to that of Ganoderma Applanatum. Fruiting structures occur singly or in clusters and have a varnished appearance.

Armillaria – Fungi from this genus cause Armillaria root rot on many species of conifers and hardwoods. The mushroom is a fleshy, firm, honey-colored conk growing in clusters of up to 100 or more. The cap of the mushroom can reach from 1.5 to 6 inches in diameter with a depressed center.

Laetiporus Sulfureus – Signs of this fungus include massive clusters of bright, yellow to salmon or bright orange shelf-like conks that turn white with and fall off as they age. The underside of the conk has millions of pores in which spores are formed. These conks appear long after the damage has occurred. Infected trees are prone to wind breakage long before the fungus forms its fruiting structures and should be removed when an infection is confirmed.

How a Tree Fungus Spreads

Fungi are spread easily from tree to tree by the following means:

Spores – Millions of spores can be produced and released by a single fruiting structure or conk. These spores can be spread by:

• Wind
• Splashing Water
• Rain

Human Activity – Handling diseased plants and trees with gardening tools and pruning equipment, then using those “infected” tools on healthy plants and trees.

Tree Fungus Treatment

The most recommended method of treatment for trees against fungal infections is prevention. By promoting the healthy growth and proper seasonal pruning of your trees, they can resist infections and infestations that can lead to disease.

However, once a fungus infects a tree, the tree cannot be fully cured. Treatments that stop the progression of the disease, allowing the tree to compartmentalize it, can be applied to restore your tree’s health.

Steps you can take to prevent fungal infections include:

• Ensuring proper drainage of the soil around your trees.
• Avoid overwatering your trees.
• Mulch your trees to maintain optimal levels of moisture and ground temperature.
• Apply fungicides like neem oil to tree bark and surface roots.
• Sanitize pruning and gardening tools between trees.
• Fertilize your trees in late winter or early spring as they enter the growing season.
• Have your trees and landscape inspected annually by an arborist.

To avoid widespread infections or catastrophic tree falls, have your trees inspected at the first sign of trouble. The earlier you address fungal infections, the easier it is to treat them.

Tree Fungi and Conks on Trees

When mushroom conks grow on your tree trunk or root flare, there is a grave problem within your tree that must be addressed. Otherwise, a potentially catastrophic tree fall may occur.

In this article, you discovered the signs of fungal tree diseases, types, and identification of fungi, how they propagate and spread, and how to treat them.

Your slow reaction to the signs of fungal infections on your tree may result in the loss of the tree. The tree may eventually fall on your vehicle, home, or causing severe physical injury to people.

Sources:
extension.psu.edu/tree-diseases-that-create-hazards
ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74109.html

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Have you discovered one or more pine trees shedding needles in your landscape?

Being that pine trees are evergreen – not deciduous – conventional wisdom should lead you to believe that this isn’t normal. After all, evergreens are characterized by their ability to retain leaves year-round.

So, if you discover a pile of pine needles blanketing your landscape, you may assume that one of your pine trees is sick or dying.

While this may be true, though, it’s usually just a normal phenomenon that doesn’t jeopardize the health or longevity of the affected pine tree.

Pine Trees Shed Their Needles Once Every Few Years

You might be surprised to learn that pine trees shed their needles once every few years.

There are roughly three dozen species of pine native to the United States. Some pine species shed their needles as frequently as once every two years, whereas other pine species shed their needles just once every five or six years. Regardless, all pine trees shed their needles.

Pine trees shed their needles to make room for new needles. Unbeknownst to many homeowners, pine trees grow new needles each year.

As these needles emerge, they’ll push out old needles, causing them to fall to the ground. Known as “needle drop,” it’s all part of a pine tree’s natural life cycle. If pine trees didn’t shed their old needles, they wouldn’t be able to grow new needles.

Lack of Water Can Cause Pine Trees to Shed Their Needles

Most instances of needle shedding in pine trees is a natural phenomenon, but this isn’t always the case.

If a pine tree is severely dehydrated, it may shed some or all of its needles in an attempt to survive. The fewer needles a pine tree has, the less water it needs.

Normally, you’ll discover the needles turning brown on a dehydrated pine tree first. Assuming the pine tree doesn’t get an adequate amount of water, the brown needles will die and fall off.

Fungal Disease Can Also Cause Pine Trees to Shed Their Needles

A fungal infection can cause pine trees to shed their needles as well.

Dothistroma, for example, is a fungus responsible for needle blight. When the needle blight-causing fungus infects a pine tree, the needles will die and fall off the tree.

You can usually diagnose needle blight in pine trees by looking for common symptoms like yellowing of the needles, the formation of a reddish-colored band around the needles and general discoloration of the pine tree’s foliage.

The Woodsman Company offers tree planting, tree pruning and shrub trimming, tree removal and stump grinding as well as a tree wellness program.

If we can help with any of your tree care needs give us a call at 512-846-2535 or 512-940-0799 or

Request a Quote / Schedule an Appointment

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